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Is there an easy way to tell if my shocks need to be replaced? It's a 93, in great shape but I have no records from the original (previous) owner. The car is pretty bumpy (almost... squirelly?) over road imperfections but I might just be unused to such a low car.
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Apr 13, 2015 17:17
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A MIRACLE posted:Is there an easy way to tell if my shocks need to be replaced? It's a 93, in great shape but I have no records from the original (previous) owner. The car is pretty bumpy (almost... squirelly?) over road imperfections but I might just be unused to such a low car. If they are completely blown, you can push down on a corner of the car and it will bounce instead of settle. From what I've been reading, the original Miata shocks are only good for 60-70k miles.
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Apr 13, 2015 20:48
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So I've decided on a Miata as a project car. I've always wanted a convertible and this is the right place to have one. Problem being is that pickings are pretty slim on Oahu. I dug up http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/cto/4957112559.html on craigslist. Thinking if I can get him to $1800 it would be the best way to start. Of course this is pending checking it out for huge rust holes and major transmission issues. Other options all start much higher. http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/cto/4943547669.html being one. This one looks dodgy with the clutch and dodgy side skirt job. Thoughts? Laranzu fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 03:44
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Laranzu posted:So I've decided on a Miata as a project car. I've always wanted a convertible and this is the right place to have one. Problem being is that pickings are pretty slim on Oahu.
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Apr 14, 2015 04:32
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destructo posted:If those are your only two options I would go with the first option as it doesn't look to have been owned by an idiot. My thoughts too. Just needed reinforcement.
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Apr 14, 2015 05:51
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The clutch is about the good thing bought for that other one. A 1.8 clutch and flywheel is a nice upgrade...if you're making more power and need more clutch holding force which the stock engine doesn't need. Everything else bought for that car is bad bad bad. Definitely the first one.
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Apr 14, 2015 07:06
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Laranzu posted:So I've decided on a Miata as a project car. I've always wanted a convertible and this is the right place to have one. Problem being is that pickings are pretty slim on Oahu. Are you dead set on an NA? They're definitely the better project car, and more affordable, but if you're at all interested in an NC, let me know. I've got an '06 you can check out. It's stock other than an aux-in that works with the stock headunit, a RoadsterSport RACE muffler, and Continental DWs.
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Apr 14, 2015 08:17
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Harmburger posted:Are you dead set on an NA? They're definitely the better project car, and more affordable, but if you're at all interested in an NC, let me know. I've got an '06 you can check out. It's stock other than an aux-in that works with the stock headunit, a RoadsterSport RACE muffler, and Continental DWs. Not dead set, but it would take a pretty blown up NC to make my budget happy. I've had nice cars the last few years and I'm looking to have a POS for a bit really.
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Apr 14, 2015 09:03
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Gorson posted:ONE OF Y'ALL. ONE OF Y'ALL. Unless you have issues, hold off on the bushings. Its a lot of money and effort for little improvement unless they are hard or damaged. And for all you know they've already been replaced! Give them a quick inspection and look for cracks or decay. If you want to freshen it up new rear shocks are a must, do ball joints and tie rod ends (again inspect first, they could be fine) to fix your steering issues, and pick up the underbody bracing the later cars have at a junkyard. Its not so much a performance mod as a comfort one. Stops the shaking on the freeway. Keep an eye on craigslist for a good deal on anti sway bars, and do your own research on a nice set of brake pads and fluid. The NA is the best car you dont "need" much to really wake it up. I"m over 10 grand into mine 
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Apr 14, 2015 12:37
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Unless you have issues, hold off on the bushings. Its a lot of money and effort for little improvement unless they are hard or damaged. And for all you know they've already been replaced! Give them a quick inspection and look for cracks or decay. Great info, thanks. I stuck my head under each corner last night. The front shocks are OE replacement. The shock boots look new so he must have replaced them. The rears appear to be the originals and I can see a tear in one shock boot. The bushings all appear to be original but do not look cracked or dry rotted out. I will take your advice and start with the rear shocks since they are due anyway, then start looking at ball joints and tie rods.
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Apr 14, 2015 20:35
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Guess who's got two thumbs and also two more bent 17" OE rims on his MSM?  Welp, guess I'm shopping for some 15" 6ULs! I'll do more research later, I've gotta get ready for work now, but any initial recommendations? This is what I got back from Emilio at 949: 15x8 zero modifications required at any ride height with 225/45 15x9 require coilovers to clear backside of wheel. Back when I first looked into these I was originally looking at like 7" (stock width) or 8" wide rims with appropriate tires to match the stock rolling diameter. Are the 6ULs durable? I mean particularly compared to the stock Racing Hart rims, but I would LOVE to not have to replace twisted rims every year. (This car has now had at least 5 bent rims. )Atomizer fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Apr 15, 2015 |
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Apr 15, 2015 18:51
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Buy some Kosei K1-TS wheels. They're 15x7 and available on tire rack.
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Apr 15, 2015 19:00
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Phone posted:Buy some Kosei K1-TS wheels. They're 15x7 and available on tire rack. Is there a specific reason you like those? I haven't heard anyone mention them before (particularly not as a Miata recommendation.) Are they particularly durable, or is it just that they kinda look like the 6ULs and it's convenient to get them with the tires already mounted because I'd be getting both from Tirerack? I'm not dead-set on stock width, I'll be happy with whatever will give me fewer headaches than these stock rims.
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Apr 15, 2015 19:34
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K1s are cheap, always available, and I remember seeing them on a lot of spec Miatas, so they can't be that fragile. Edit: For the money, I'm pretty happy with my Jongbloed 15x8s. I think they're still available.
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Apr 15, 2015 19:38
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I had a set and my parents have a set on their MSM. Unless if you have coilovers, I don't know what going up to an 8 or 9" wheel will gain for you outside of awful understeer and fitment issues. I also don't know how you're driving if you're destroying the Racing Hart boat anchors either.
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Apr 15, 2015 19:41
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Atomizer posted:Is there a specific reason you like those? I haven't heard anyone mention them before (particularly not as a Miata recommendation.) They are also one of the lighter wheels you can buy: 11.4lbs @15x7.
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Apr 15, 2015 21:19
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Also both Fatcow and I have bounced my set of K1-TSs off of curbs at VIR and Carolina Motor sports Park (not the bad ones on the outside of T14, though) and they're all round still.
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Apr 15, 2015 22:06
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Yeah, I've abused the poo poo out of those wheels and they still seem fairly round. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWNCl9cU55g
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Apr 15, 2015 22:17
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Phone posted:I had a set and my parents have a set on their MSM. Unless if you have coilovers, I don't know what going up to an 8 or 9" wheel will gain for you outside of awful understeer and fitment issues. Do K1s even come in 8 or 9"? If I don't end up getting GC coilovers before my tires wear out I'm probably just gonna get a set of 7" K1s. Would love some 9" 6ULs tho, I keep missing out on people selling GCs 
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Apr 16, 2015 00:31
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K1 K1-TS  And yeah, 15x7 only for both.
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Apr 16, 2015 01:20
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I have 15x8 6ULs with 205/50 on them. No complaints. When I jump to 15x9 I think I'm going to get Koenig Dial-ins.
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Apr 16, 2015 01:25
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Phone posted:K1 The K1 looks better 
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Apr 16, 2015 04:15
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Phone posted:I had a set and my parents have a set on their MSM. Unless if you have coilovers, I don't know what going up to an 8 or 9" wheel will gain for you outside of awful understeer and fitment issues. The suspension is stock, I'll be perfectly happy with 7" wide rims. And gently caress, dude, it's a MSM, how do you think I drive it? Like I loving stole it.  That's not the problem though, the lovely roads full of potholes are twisting up the goddamn rims (although 2 of them were replaced by the PO, and 1 was bent when I got it; the last two were entirely in my possession unless they were just less noticeably twisted before.) I mean I drive aggressively while trying to avoid potholes, but they're not always easy to avoid without swerving all over the place, and they're also difficult to spot being so low to the ground. Gorson posted:They are also one of the lighter wheels you can buy: 11.4lbs @15x7. The 6ULs are even lighter: 10.6 lbs for the 15x7: http://949racing.com/15x7-6UL.aspx Although those Koseis aren't too shabby; both those rims are only a bit more than half the 17" Racing Harts at over 18 lbs!  loving Enkei RPF1s are 9.9 lbs!!! leica posted:The K1 looks better To be fair, I also prefer single-spoke designs, preferably 5 spokes. That's part of the reason why I like the look of the stock rims despite their other drawbacks. ---------------------------- The thing that's pissing me off is that on Tirerack they won't let me just browse specific sizes of rims; it'll show the general styles, but then I've got to specify a car, and they don't want to show 15" rims for the '05 MSM, so I picked an NA just to see the options. Why the gently caress are they making this so difficult? Anyways, it's still a better idea to go with 15s on the MSM rather than 16s? There seem to be far fewer options with the latter and I'm OK with a setup looking something like this (not my car):  Obviously with different-colored rim and car, but I don't mind that kinda chunky look. Stick with 15x7 vs 15x8? Any reason to go wider? What about 195/50 vs. 205/50 tires? I'm thinking 15x7 6ULs in Tungsten with 205/50 Star Specs. What do you guys think?
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Apr 16, 2015 09:00
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Atomizer posted:Is there a specific reason you like those? I haven't heard anyone mention them before (particularly not as a Miata recommendation.) do NOT get 6UL. they are one of only two 15 inch wheels that wont clear all 1.8 brakes, and i think you have the biggest. You might be able to make it work with a new "Banjo bolt" i think its called on the brake. but you're better off with TRC3M or C1M. But 6UL does NOT clear the Hard-S brakes without modification. perfect fitment formula (i'm not a "slammed" guy) is 15X8 +25 205/50/15 Ride height 12.5F 13.5R (or 14 if you want more oversteer) edit: i meant 1 inch of rake. And yes for me it works well. Lots of front end control authority, enough to unsettle the back end if you want to, Its my best option on a open diff car to have an answer to understeer that doesnt slow me down so much, and i can keep my rear sway for more high speed gradual stuff. ANYWAY I must be mistaking it for another wheel, I remembered it as "The popular one that wasnt the RPF1". MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Apr 16, 2015 |
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Apr 16, 2015 12:09
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MattD1zzl3 posted:But 6UL does NOT clear the Hard-S brakes without modification. The 15x9s on my 2001 clear the sport brakes no problem. I find it very unlikely that the wheels explicitly designed for a Miata have fitment problems on a Miata. 1.25" of rake on a Miata? .25" is closer to what people run.
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Apr 16, 2015 17:23
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My first miata had a roadstersport 2 exhaust on it... I miss that sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSHAZk9uVwg
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Apr 17, 2015 00:16
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MattD1zzl3 posted:do NOT get 6UL. they are one of only two 15 inch wheels that wont clear all 1.8 brakes, and i think you have the biggest. You might be able to make it work with a new "Banjo bolt" i think its called on the brake. but you're better off with TRC3M or C1M. But 6UL does NOT clear the Hard-S brakes without modification. Wait, is that all retracted based on your last edit? Because yeah, all signs point to the 6ULs being just fine for the MSM. Emilio from 949 said "no modifications needed [for the 15x8s]", and oh yeah, here's a whole thread full of MSMs with 6ULs: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,19506.0.html Is there some reason almost everybody (not just in that thread) with 6ULs on their MSM have either 8 or 9" width instead of 7"? (I think the 7"ers weren't produced in the beginning.) Isn't it basically "the narrower rims will ride/handle better but wider rims are recommended for power upgrades?" The car is otherwise stock, so am I wrong in planning for 7" wide rims? (Again, street use only.) (Also the MSM has an LSD.) -------------------------------------- I noticed this earlier when reading the description on the Star Specs: Dunlop posted:As an evolution of the Direzza ZII and continuing to use the same tread design, the Direzza ZII Star Spec's tread compound helps provide faster lap times from the start by developing more traction in temperate temperatures along with consistent grip on subsequent laps when the tires are fully warmed up. While this means the Direzza ZII Star Spec's tread compound accommodates a wider operating temperature range, it is not intended to be serviced, stored nor driven in near- and below-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice. So, uh, I live in Chicagoland, and the car will be stored in near-and/or-below-freezing temperatures (for about half the year!) and occasionally driven in lower temperatures (~40s) in the Spring/Autumn.  Does this mean the Star Specs are a no-go? 
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Apr 17, 2015 08:08
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He only makes the 15x7 to appease the SM folks. He made them way back in the day in the first batches I believe, but hasn't again until recently. Get the 8's, they're probably lighter than the 7's due to SM's minimum weight at 13 lbs and you can fit more tire on them.
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Apr 17, 2015 15:18
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Get 15x7s unless if you're planning on dropping the car any time soon. Ignore Mattdizzle, he's temporarily losing his poo poo.
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Apr 17, 2015 15:26
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Yea i openly admit i was mistaken. i must have confused it with another wheel. Revised truth/Hazy memory: There exists a popular 15X7-8 wheel that doesnt fit the sport brakes because of a caliper bolt of some sort. MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Apr 17, 2015 |
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Apr 17, 2015 20:38
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Atomizer posted:So, uh, I live in Chicagoland, and the car will be stored in near-and/or-below-freezing temperatures (for about half the year!) and occasionally driven in lower temperatures (~40s) in the Spring/Autumn. Any summer/performance tyre will be some degree of garbage at near freezing or lower.
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Apr 17, 2015 20:49
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Edmund Honda posted:Any summer/performance tyre will be some degree of garbage at near freezing or lower. I've driven on my Ziis in light snow and temperatures in the 20s (South Carolina). They are not very good in those conditions but they won't kill you. Pay attention and don't drive like its the summer and you will be fine.
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Apr 17, 2015 20:53
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Driving with zero grip seems to be a "Some people can/some cant" thing.
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Apr 17, 2015 22:56
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So it looks like I have one vote for 7" and one vote for 8". The 7" is the stock width and I have no performance mods, with no plans to install any any time soon. (I can always upgrade the wheels if that changes.) The car is about as low as it can go, no plans to drop it ever. The 7s are a pound lighter than the 8s. I'm OK with the stock width and better handling. (Remember, I've been driving this thing with the boat anchors, this wheel change will save 8-9 pounds or shave off about a third of the original weight!) Conversely, the 7s are not available until this Summer, allegedly. I guess if the 7s don't come out I'll have to go with 8s, but I haven't seen a compelling reason to go with one over the other. Edit: Spec Miata was mentioned; they make specific 7" 6ULs for Spec Miata (they're heavier) which doesn't apply to me; I'm only considering the regular edition rims. Edmund Honda posted:Any summer/performance tyre will be some degree of garbage at near freezing or lower. I can avoid driving in low temperatures, I do have a second car (specifically purchased for inclement weather & the Winter.) The concern is that part about storage. It will definitely be stored at or well-below freezing for half the year. (Unless I move, which has been sounding like more and more of a good idea lately, but that's another story.) I have to make the assumption that they included that statement for a reason. Also, Dunlop's site is surprisingly unhelpful; it's difficult to find things I'm going to contact Tirerack, Dunlop, and 949 as well to get some info. I'll let you know how it goes. Atomizer fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Apr 18, 2015 |
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Apr 18, 2015 07:21
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Buy the K1-TS wheels since you can readily find replacements. They're cheaper than the 6ULs and there isn't that much of a weight penalty.
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Apr 18, 2015 15:12
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Phone posted:Buy the K1-TS wheels since you can readily find replacements. They're cheaper than the 6ULs and there isn't that much of a weight penalty. Well at 15x7 they're both almost the same price; the Enkeis might be a few bucks less but that's insignificant. At this point I'm already going to be dropping over a grand, so I don't care about a few bucks either way. I'll go with either the Enkeis or the 6ULs, but the situation now looks more like it's about the tires than the rims. Here's Emilio's response from 949: Emilio posted:The only gain with 7's is ride quality. As you add width you add steering response, stability and overall grip. 9"s only fit with coilover so that's not an option for your. Run 205/50's on 15x8. The stats for the 205/50-15 Star Specs lists 7.5" as the maximum rim width, though. On top of that, the other tire sizes listed on the 6UL x8" product page aren't available in the Star Specs. There isn't even anything available at 215/45, so I would have to go with 225/45 (g-Force Rivals, Ventus R-S3, or Proxes R1R.) For the most part there's only track tires available at the other sizes. Realistically, I'm probably going to have to get 205/50s on 7" width. The main question now is, "What will happen to Extreme Performance Summer tires when stored over the Winter?" Worst-case scenario, there's a Direzza DZ102 UHP Summer tire that seems to be highly-rated and is also cheap as gently caress. All of this research into wheels is making me wonder what the rest of you guys are running.
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Apr 18, 2015 21:11
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Atomizer posted:The stats for the 205/50-15 Star Specs lists 7.5" as the maximum rim width, though. On top of that, the other tire sizes listed on the 6UL x8" product page aren't available in the Star Specs. There isn't even anything available at 215/45, so I would have to go with 225/45 (g-Force Rivals, Ventus R-S3, or Proxes R1R.) For the most part there's only track tires available at the other sizes. Realistically, I'm probably going to have to get 205/50s on 7" width. Ignore the maximum rim widths. quote:The main question now is, "What will happen to Extreme Performance Summer tires when stored over the Winter?" Worst-case scenario, there's a Direzza DZ102 UHP Summer tire that seems to be highly-rated and is also cheap as gently caress. quote:All of this research into wheels is making me wonder what the rest of you guys are running. I don't have a street car so what run is meaningless to you.
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Apr 18, 2015 22:07
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Atomizer posted:All of this research into wheels is making me wonder what the rest of you guys are running. Stock hollow spokes with Azenis. woop dee doo
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Apr 18, 2015 23:32
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Atomizer posted:Well at 15x7 they're both almost the same price; the Enkeis might be a few bucks less but that's insignificant. At this point I'm already going to be dropping over a grand, so I don't care about a few bucks either way. I'll go with either the Enkeis or the 6ULs, but the situation now looks more like it's about the tires than the rims. Here's Emilio's response from 949: You should buy the wheel that has legendary status for being unavailable considering that the only reason why you're looking at new wheels is because you're bending wheels on an annual basis. Also, the K1-TS is made by Kosei. Once again, you don't have a modified suspension, so getting a bigger wheel and tire combo doesn't really make sense. A 205/50R15 will fit on an 8" wheel, it's OK. You could also pick up 195/50R15s, and they'll fit like a glove. If you're buying UHP Summer tires, you shouldn't be concerned with your tires lasting more than 18 months. Buying a compromise tire like a V12 or DZ102 is pretty dumb because you get all of the disadvantages of an UHP, but they're floppy and don't grip well either. When my car was stock: 14x6 hollow spokes with 195/60R14 Falken Azenis RT-615 (3 sets, I think) and Hankook Ventus RS2s When I picked up a suspension: 15x7 Kosei K1-TS with 225/45R15 Hankook R-S3s pinched on them When the car broke, I sold the K1-TSs to Fatcow and parked it. After I got it back on the road: 3rd gen 15x9 949racing 6ULs with 225/45R15 Hankook R-S3s and BFG Rivals 225/45R15 (also ran 195/50R15 Star Specs on my Mazda2 on Miata 15x6 M-edition BBS wheels in 2012) I'm going to put the Version 2s of the Hankook R-S3s on when the Rival shows cords and I'm also going to pick up a set of 4th gen 6ULs in 15x9 and put 225/45R15 Toyo RRs on them. My recommendation? Buy a set of Kosei K1-TS wheels and Z2s. Phone fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Apr 19, 2015 |
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Apr 19, 2015 00:07
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Lemme know when you wanna sell your 3rd gen 6ULs Phone. I'm kinda torn because I know I'm going to eventually get some GC coilovers, so I might as well get 9" wheels off the bat, gently caress it.
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Apr 19, 2015 01:05
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