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Good to know that the Hues are nifty. Pricey, but hopefully worthwhile! I understand that they need to be switched "on" if you want to control them via the app/wifi- do the bulbs still use energy when they're "on", but not active? I hope my question makes sense.
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Oct 24, 2015 07:38
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Question makes sense. I assumed they would use a small amount of power when turned on but not lit, this confirms http://greenmonk.net/2014/02/20/internet-things-connected-philips-hue-bulbs-review/ So it's like leaving a 60w bulb on for over an hour every day (e: for 3 bulbs+ bridge to run all day); not too bad to me. If these numbers are correct, you could do some napkin math to figure out when the bulbs pay for themselves (that I am not going to do at 2am) (I assume break even = heat death of the universe, these fuckers are Not Cheap). E: I haven't used anything other than the mfg app, and geofencing just does not work on it. I don't know if this is an Android vs Apple thing or what, but it's kind of the coolest feature but good luck with that. The timed lighting is very hit or miss, but is nice when it works. BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Oct 24, 2015 |
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Oct 24, 2015 07:48
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PainterofCrap posted:In short: no. Damage by insects, birds, domestic animals, and vermin is specifically excluded, even if it did happen within your policy period (which it did not). Fair enough. I figured if it was covered (etc) that if you're getting into drywall or wood replacement it might suddenly spike over your deductible, even if you included the loss of "claim free discount" depending on the extent. NancyPants posted:So it's like leaving a 60w bulb on for over an hour every day (e: for 3 bulbs+ bridge to run all day); not too bad to me. If these numbers are correct, you could do some napkin math to figure out when the bulbs pay for themselves (that I am not going to do at 2am) (I assume break even = heat death of the universe, these fuckers are Not Cheap). As far as the break even point we had some bulbs which we left on 12 hours a day which broke even in 3 months. They were basic TCP brand dimmable bulbs though. 60W -> 8W = 52W savings, $cost_of_bulb / (((52*Hours_on*30)/1000)*$0.18) = break even month. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Oct 24, 2015 |
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Oct 24, 2015 14:20
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PainterofCrap posted:I've seen rates go up; I've seen deductibles increase. But cancelled after a loss? Because of the loss? Not legal.
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Oct 25, 2015 00:10
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Slugworth posted:I filed my first claim ever, a $5k sewer backup claim, with State Farm and got dropped. They 'graciously' allowed me to renew provided that I cancelled my sewer backup rider. "So you're saying you didn't give me enough money to have the problem fixed properly? Otherwise you shouldn't be concerned about it."
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Oct 25, 2015 00:12
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Slugworth posted:I filed my first claim ever, a $5k sewer backup claim, with State Farm and got dropped. They 'graciously' allowed me to renew provided that I cancelled my sewer backup rider. Was the plumber paid by them or you? If the plumber was hired / paid by them I would be worried that you may have a serious problem with your sewer.
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Oct 25, 2015 00:20
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Jadunk posted:Was the plumber paid by them or you? If the plumber was hired / paid by them I would be worried that you may have a serious problem with your sewer.
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Oct 25, 2015 00:29
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Slugworth posted:The insurance pays for damages incurred from sewage, not the cost of repairing the cause of loss (which ended up being a simple rodding). Depends on the insurance and the situation. I've had insurances pay me to expose problems but not fix them and to fix them but not expose them. I mean either way the insurance footed ~90% of the cost, it was easy for my boss to tweak the hours whichever way was better for the homeowner. But technically they were almost always willing to pay one or the other but never both. Could be worse, could be a home warranty that would demand a $65 deductible just to tell you they don't cover exposing OR fixing the break  .
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Oct 25, 2015 02:44
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I need to find a solution to blacken the handlebars on my motorcycle, since they are distracting when reflected in my windscreen. It looks like they already have some sort of frosted finish on them, it's not bare metal. It seems like some sort of metal dye would be the right solution, but I am really hoping to be able to color it without taking it apart and dipping it. I'm not sure if there is any way to paint / treat them without taking them apart that wouldn't end up looking sloppy and lame though.
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Oct 25, 2015 04:05
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Plasti-dip is probably the way to go as it's easy to apply and can be peeled off later if you wanna sell it or whatever. Regardless, disassembling is probably the way to go if you want it to look good, pain in the rear end that it is.
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Oct 25, 2015 04:08
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Enourmo posted:Plasti-dip is probably the way to go as it's easy to apply and can be peeled off later if you wanna sell it or whatever. Regardless, disassembling is probably the way to go if you want it to look good, pain in the rear end that it is. Hmm, looking at some videos on youtube of plastic dip tutorials - I think I might be able to spray it well enough for my purposes without taking it apart. It would be a buttload of masking, but any overspray that gets on the bike would come off, right? It doesn't really need to look perfect if it's removable I suppose, as long as I don't have to keep staring at a vibrating reflection of them in the windshield all the time.
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Oct 25, 2015 04:23
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Speaking of painting, I've got the exact opposite problem. I'm trying to paint a plastic casting gold chrome, but the gold chrome rustoleum rattle can stuff I picked up sucks beyond belief. Anyone have any advice, experience, or recommended paints/methods to get a nice chrome luster on something?
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Oct 25, 2015 07:14
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What's the matter? Did it come off, or did the paint swirl or something similar?
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Oct 25, 2015 16:55
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kid sinister posted:What's the matter? Did it come off, or did the paint swirl or something similar? It's not very chrome-y at all, more like someone colored it in with a gold crayon than a nice shiny luster. I'm just trying to figure out what kinda paint I can use to give me a reflective gold tinted chrome.
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Oct 26, 2015 03:46
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Dude, you've got a nice looking bike, don't half-rear end this. Agreeing 100% with this: Enourmo posted:disassembling is probably the way to go if you want it to look good, pain in the rear end that it is.
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Oct 26, 2015 03:51
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n0tqu1tesane posted:And my "connection" to the military that allows me to have service is through my grandfather, who flew B-24s in WWII. Of course, my father got a membership while he was still a dependent, and I got my membership while I was still a dependent of my father. My parents opened a USAA account in my name when I was a kid and it only ever had like $18 in it at any given time. They told me to always keep the account no matter what and I didn't really "get it" until I bought a house and had to deal with homeowners insurance (plus earthquake coverage) and USAA blew everyone else out of the water. My only regret is that I didn't use them for auto coverage sooner.
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Oct 26, 2015 05:02
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Our smoke detector woke us up at 4AM with one full bore beep. Pulled it down and it expired in April! Pulled down the rest, manufactured in 1999! Ordered 4x: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PC5SX98 (Delivered today by 9pm, yay!) Please validate my life choices.  Anything obviously incorrect about that one? Ours are not hardwire.
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Oct 26, 2015 15:54
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H110Hawk posted:Our smoke detector woke us up at 4AM with one full bore beep. Pulled it down and it expired in April! Pulled down the rest, manufactured in 1999! Ordered 4x: From talking with the firefighters at my local fire station they recommended getting the dual sensing detectors (photoelectric and ionization) as the two sensors detect two different types of fires (flash fires vs. slow smoldering). I ended up getting the First Alert BRK 3120b.
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Oct 26, 2015 16:44
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Jose Cuervo posted:From talking with the firefighters at my local fire station they recommended getting the dual sensing detectors (photoelectric and ionization) as the two sensors detect two different types of fires (flash fires vs. slow smoldering). I ended up getting the First Alert BRK 3120b. http://www.structuretech1.com/2013/07/photoelectric-smoke-alarms-are-all-you-need/
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Oct 26, 2015 17:30
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The joys of home ownership continue. The the past couple of weeks, a part of my fence has gone downhill FAST. We were already planning to get it fixed (well, most likely entirely replaced) in the summer, but I'm afraid it won't last that long. Here's a picture:  As you can see, the bottom "crossbeam" (sorry if that's not proper fence terminology) is completely rotted away and worthless, the top one is mostly worthless, and that one post is on it's last leg. My plan to get it through the winter without collapsing onto my neighbor's yard is to put a couple of stakes into the garden area, and attach cables to them that will be attached to eye-hooks on the post. I then want to take a couple 2x4's and put them up along the fenceposts and screw them into the posts and fenceposts to keep them in place. Good idea/bad idea? And since people were talking about insurance earlier, is there any chance getting the fence repaired/replaced is covered? I looked over my policy, and since I am terrible with legalese, it looks like it might be covered? I have a "Limited fungi, wet or dry rot, or bacteria coverage" endorsement that says: quote:SECTION I - PERILS INSURED AGAINST And here's the relevant part of Section I, Coverage A and B: quote:COVERAGE A - DWELLING and COVERAGE B - (Bolded the important section) Since the fence is from wet rot, it looks that that endorsement means it is possibly covered?
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Oct 26, 2015 21:30
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DrBouvenstein posted:The joys of home ownership continue. Isn't that all stuff that they don't insure against? That's why it says "We do not insure, however, for loss:" and then lists the things that aren't covered. Edit: It looks like the change makes the only rot covered to be hidden, which the fence definitely isn't Flash Gordon Ramsay fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 26, 2015 21:40
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Isn't that all stuff that they don't insure against? That's why it says "We do not insure, No kidding. It's a table. Write out the whole sentence: "We do not insure, however, for loss: ... 2. Caused by: ... e. Any of the following: ... (3) Smog, rust or other corrosion, mold, wet or dry rot;" Then simplify that replacement section: "Penetrating or interior water unless that water causes hidden, unknown damage inside structures" Your fence is outdoors that rotted outside-in so I doubt it's covered. By the way, I think I figured out the confusing way they rewrote that section. They added basement leaks in unfinished basement sections as "not covered". kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Oct 26, 2015 |
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Oct 26, 2015 22:06
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More generally, that looks like an old fence, old fences rot out, I wouldn't expect any insurance company to cover replacing an old fence. It's a predictable cost of owning a home, i.e. not the kind of thing you need insurance for. If your other fenceposts are in good condition, you might be able to patch things for a little while by screwing 2x4s across the fenceboards running from the sound fenceposts across the rotted-out section. I "repaired" a somewhat-teetery fence by doing that, but it wasn't in as bad of shape as yours was -- the wood was fine, just pushed out of position by some trees that had been leaning on it.
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Oct 26, 2015 22:22
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Even if it weren't explicitly excluded, that's a stretch to ask your insurance to cover that. Your problem is that whoever installed the fence didn't use treated lumber. From the looks of it, should be pretty easy to fix up. Just get a 4x4 treated post to replace the one that's separated from the base, dig out the hole from the other one, sink it in place and add a bag or two of quickrete if you really want it to stay. Then replace the supporting cross members, nail the fence boards onto the new cross members, and pressure wash/repaint the whole thing. Oh, and replace any fence boards that need it. Shouldn't take more than a weekend of light effort. Though, if you're in a cold climate where winter is fast approaching and the temps are regularly below fifty, you might want to hold off on painting till next year, that way the paint can cure properly. Also, waiting will give the treated lumber time to dry out and weather, otherwise paint won't adhere well to fresh treated stock.
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Oct 26, 2015 23:07
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Don't use your homeowners on a fence.
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Oct 27, 2015 00:42
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I do live in the north, and temperatures are already frequently sub 50 in the day. I feel competent enough to put in a new post and all that jazz, but like I said, we were planning on getting the whole fence replaced this summer. So I don't want to spend too much money on a fix that only needs to last a winter.
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Oct 27, 2015 01:43
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DrBouvenstein posted:I feel competent enough to put in a new post and all that jazz, but like I said, we were planning on getting the whole fence replaced this summer. So I don't want to spend too much money on a fix that only needs to last a winter. Yeah, in that case rope and some posts (or even tie it to the house if it's close enough) is a good-enough fix to last for a few months at least.
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Oct 27, 2015 01:57
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The plasti dip turned out ok, I got a weird fuzzy texture on the last few coats - but it will keep it from reflecting which is all I needed. Was a pain in the rear end to mask.
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Oct 27, 2015 04:58
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DrBouvenstein posted:The joys of home ownership continue. If all of the posts are starting to rot I would just get these to repair the fence until it is replaced later. If it is just this post you can buy a treated 4x4 and dig out the old one. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-FPBM44E-Black-Powder-Coated-12-Gauge-E-Z-Mender-FPBM44E/202563551
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Oct 27, 2015 05:38
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I've got a loose piece of composite wood siding near my front door and I'm not sure how to handle it. It has a little give to it, meaning I can move it a bit like a loose tooth. Should I a) just use Gorilla Glue to hold it in place, or b) replace the whole piece? If the answer is B, how do I do that (I am clueless about this type of stuff) 
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Oct 27, 2015 20:12
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Slugworth posted:I filed my first claim ever, a $5k sewer backup claim, with State Farm and got dropped. They 'graciously' allowed me to renew provided that I cancelled my sewer backup rider. Sounds like the agent is a douche, and violating the law at that. If you have a need for sewer backup, you should loving have sewer backup. Did they put this "gracious request" in writing? And what state are you in?
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Oct 28, 2015 04:26
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DrBouvenstein posted:
No. The first section you are quoting is some type of liberalization for seepage inside a building. It's something that's normally excluded, but appears to be liberalizing coverage in the event no one is aware of it,. That's kind of nifty, as every homeowner's policy I've seen excludes repeated leakage & seepage including humidity whether the insured knows about it or not, and boy have I gotten my ears bent on a number of occasions by insureds who complain that they didn't know that their tub tile was seeping through into the kitchen below in spite of the mold & mildew horror show & missing grout (& occasionally missing tile) that would be in the tub surround. But I digress. The second part, as noted, is a list of exclusions. We don't cover that poo poo, and I can tell, with my steely-trained adjuster's eye, that your fence was in fact not damaged by an "accidental direct physical loss," such as wind. Or a car driving through it. Although it won't take much more than a fly fart to knock it over. Also... Virigoth posted:Don't use your homeowners on a fence. ...unless it's a whole lotta expensive fence. Sorry. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 04:40
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Any suggestions on what to do with this bathroom? Design on the left is whats there now. On the right is my current plan which to make the back room a shower/tub room, put a stacked washer/dryer where the tub was, and replace the single pedestal sink with a double vanity.
Hashtag Banterzone fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 14:41
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Where is the door in? First thought was to move the toilet back into that alcove, and move the door a few feet in... private stall for the shitter is a big plus in my book.
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Oct 28, 2015 14:50
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Squashy Nipples posted:Where is the door in? It's the Sims, there isn't one.
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Oct 28, 2015 14:52
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Squashy Nipples posted:Where is the door in? Whoops I added the door and edited the image. I thought about moving the toilet in there but the wall to the little alcove used to be an exterior wall and is brick so I'd rather not move it. Having the toilet separate from the shower sink and bath would be nice for usability. Hashtag Banterzone fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Oct 28, 2015 |
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Oct 28, 2015 15:05
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Here are a couple layouts you might be interested in: 
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Oct 28, 2015 15:23
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Can someone help me with my lovely Ikea kitchen cabinets?  As you can see from this pic the top two drawers are are caving in towards each other. Initially I though I just needed to adjust the fronts until I opened them up and looked inside...  As you can see here the center piece that the these are attached to has nothing supporting it from beneath which is leading to...  gravity pulling this center section away from the counter top, so it's the entire drawers themselves that are caving in not just the fronts. Can I just get some sort of epoxy and clamp this section back up to the counter top? The countertop is granite, is there any risk of breaking it by doing this? Any other remedy I should be thinking about?
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Oct 28, 2015 15:24
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I am going to have a contractor finish a room in my basement. After several estimates, I think I found the most reasonable individual who seems like they know what they are doing since cheapest guy seemed kinda clueless. I want to try to sound proof the room a little without going crazy on the budget and I have heard from a few sources that the best way to do this is by insulating the walls and /or ceiling. I was quoted $290 to do the whole ceiling, and $245 to do a wall. The exterior walls don't need insulation, and maybe I should insulate near the stairs (no, not Grover Haus style) but (to my knowledge) that wasn't included in the estimate.  I called the contractor to give him the go ahead and discuss the insulation, an extra $500 on insulation seems like a lot and I think I was going to insulate areas where it wasn't necessary. Above the room, from the green line to the stairs is the high traffic main entry but most of the upper floor is the master bathroom. I wouldn't mind not hearing plumbing noises but I don't think I care enough to spend $500 on it. The contractor suggested I could buy a roll of insulation and do it myself to save some money. . . I think this should be easy to do but I have never attempted something like this before. Looking at menards.com, I see things like 3-1/2" x 15" x 32' R13 - $8.23. Considering I have approximately 20 linear feet of 8ft tall walls, that would be 160sq ft and 4 rolls or $40 - which is a hell of a lot less than $245 to insulate the wall. Did I simply choose cheap crap insulation, or is the amount of labor worth the extra $200? Is there anything special I need to know about insulation near plumbing and electrical lines? Should I insulate the whole wall or only the red line that is connected with the family room? I believe the most difficult area will be around the doorway leading into the room since the space between the studs is about 3 inches or less. . . Would I just attempt to cut a long skinny strip of batting or use something else? How is insulation supposed to be cut, scissors or a special tool? As for the ceiling, the contractor also suggested I could do that on my own, but holy crap there are a lot of PVC pipes up there (hooray master bathroom). The space available is approximately 1ft deep and I have trusses instead of rafters. I honestly have no idea how I would even start such an undertaking. That said, I am considering having him insulate only to either the green or blue line if that can save a little on the cost. I am considering doing this mainly for principle of knowing I did not insulate a lot more area than necessary.
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Oct 28, 2015 17:44
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Sleepstupid posted:Can someone help me with my lovely Ikea kitchen cabinets? On every cabinet of a similar design I've ever seen there's a piece going the width of the cabinet under the drawers, supporting that hanging noggin. I'm surprised you haven't one, is it missing?
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Oct 28, 2015 18:55
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