|
kenny powerzzz posted:This may sound silly but I've had this happen with loose or dirty battery cables. If this is the case extra juice from an attempted jump start might not help as its not making it through the cable. This would also explain the bike eventually not clicking at all. First make sure the cables aren't able to be moved by hand then inspect them for corrosion. The battery cables are fine with no corrosion present, But looking at the battery it looks like its the original that came with the bike.
|
#
?
May 23, 2012 22:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 19:00 |
|
|
Hmmmph. It still should have cranked over with a jump then. Hopefully a battery will fix it. Good luck.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2012 22:23
|
|
|
If you're just trying to get it home, did I miss it or did you try to bump start it?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2012 23:13
|
|
|
The P.O. left this thing on the SV I got recently, part of the steering damper system. Since I don't have the damper itself, what do I do with this thing? I looked up the parts number etched on it and it's from Scotts. 
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 02:17 on May 24, 2012 |
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 02:14
|
|
|
the walkin dude posted:The P.O. left this thing on the SV I got recently, part of the steering damper system. Since I don't have the damper itself, what do I do with this thing? Stash it in a corner or toss it on SVrider for some cash.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 02:15
|
|
|
I attempted to bump start it but that didnt work. The company progressive queued through wanted another 2 hours on top of the 4 I was waiting on earlier. Luckily as I was rolling down a hill with no power in the middle of the night a biker stopped me and offered me a ride with my bike back to my house in his flatbed trailer. On the way home from dinner with my family we picked up a trickle charger to let the new battery charge for a bit.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 03:00
|
|
|
Make sure "bit" is a day at least.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 03:21
|
|
|
The manual that came with the charger said 4 hours, Is it dangerous if I leave it on overnight for 10ish hours?
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 03:32
|
|
|
Not at all. Batteries relish that. Looks like I have a good assortment of used parts going up for sale soon from that SV...
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 03:37
|
|
|
Normally I use Honda brand DOT4 Fluid in my brakes but I was wondering if anybody might have any other suggestions. Of course, I am putting it into a Honda.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 04:29
|
|
|
EvilCrayon posted:Normally I use Honda brand DOT4 Fluid in my brakes but I was wondering if anybody might have any other suggestions. Of course, I am putting it into a Honda. Z3n turned me on to Motul RBF600 and I'm a believer. It completely transformed my brakes when I was doing a bunch of trackdays. I run it in everything now... overkill but whatever, I have kickass brakes 
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 04:47
|
|
|
needknees posted:Z3n turned me on to Motul RBF600 and I'm a believer. It completely transformed my brakes when I was doing a bunch of trackdays. I run it in everything now... overkill but whatever, I have kickass brakes Yeah that's the old lameness. New hotness: Castrol SRF Yeah, I brake too much and overheat my brakes, big whoop, wanna fight about it? (I run RBF in my streetbikes)
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 05:22
|
|
|
turns out it was the battery, hooked up the new one and it turned over first time. I'm going to leave the trickle charger on it while im gone for another 10ish hours.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 14:44
|
|
|
Tenchrono posted:turns out it was the battery, hooked up the new one and it turned over first time. I'm going to leave the trickle charger on it while im gone for another 10ish hours. Just for the sake of not getting stranded, check your charging system too. Fingers crossed it's just the battery, but it could be the charging system that caused the battery to fail.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2012 14:56
|
|
|
Ola posted:A single GER - ENG translator with no particular mechanical skill makes a judgement call, the language is changed forever. Hardcore BMW heads probably insist on calling it that.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 04:26
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I noticed another good one today while working on an S1000RR. Repair manual refers to the front brake fluid reservoir as an "expansion tank" Um, don't take this the wrong way, but this wasn't a big plastic tank filled with coolant was it? 
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 07:01
|
|
|
Saga posted:Um, don't take this the wrong way, but this wasn't a big plastic tank filled with coolant was it? I'm sure it wasn't. Having done a bit of translation, I can guess the translator browsed some other book and found a coolant expansion tank that looked similar and was called a similar thing. Obviously now BMW die hards have to start called it that.  Put expansion fluid in the expansion tank press the expansion lever until it is firm!
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 07:26
|
|
|
"Expansion tank" would make a pretty good name for the R1200GS. It's the tank that you buy when your waistline has expanded with age and you can't ride a decent motorcycle any more.  bonus
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 11:14
|
|
|
Hah! It's the vehicle you use when the borders of your nation seem a bit too tight for comfy living.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 11:53
|
|
|
Ola posted:Hah! It's the vehicle you use when the borders of your nation seem a bit too tight for comfy living. Do you know, I checked the BMW parts database and you just might be right: Ausdehnungsgefäß: S1000RR 10+ F800R F800ST K1300S K1300GT Pz.Kpfw. IV (Ausf. D+) Pz.Kpfw. V StuG III (Ausf. G+)
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 12:13
|
|
|
Ola posted:Obviously now BMW die hards have to start called it that. Found another fun one, while I'm at it. On the 600mi service, you're supposed to lube the kickstand with "Klüberplex BE 11-462" Oh and if I didn't mention already, airboxes are usually referred to as "intake air silencers"
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 17:49
|
|
|
BMW: Our wording is technically correct, but practically useless.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 19:40
|
|
|
Olde Weird Tip posted:BMW: Our wording is technically correct, but practically useless. Much like their bikes. 
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 19:50
|
|
|
Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Found another fun one, while I'm at it. On the 600mi service, you're supposed to lube the kickstand with "Klüberplex BE 11-462" I think they're having a little joke. Klüberplex BE 11-462 is the camp that Steve McQueen jumped that motorcycle out of, I'm sure of it. Also, intake air silencers? Sacrilege...
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 20:22
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Just for the sake of not getting stranded, check your charging system too. Fingers crossed it's just the battery, but it could be the charging system that caused the battery to fail. This right here, I ended up replacing a perfectly good battery last summer when I had the same problem as you, because I assumed dead battery=faulty battery. When I got the new battery in and the problem persisted, I had to do some actual troubleshooting and found out that it was the stator (and that it could have been many other things, also). So not only did we end up stranded 50 miles from home, I spent $100 on a battery I didn't need.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 21:59
|
|
|
Well, winter and a 1400 mile round trip to St. Louis toasted my rear tire and it's starting to show nice squid belts in the middle  Are there any dual compounds that have a hard as gently caress-all middle but worthwhile egdes? I use my bike as my main transportation right now but still want to hoon around.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 22:06
|
|
|
Tenchrono posted:turns out it was the battery, hooked up the new one and it turned over first time. I'm going to leave the trickle charger on it while im gone for another 10ish hours. get a cheap multimeter and read this http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 22:07
|
|
|
I had a better idea than 2x4 for breaking my rear wheel nut -- a tie-down strap. So, I strapped a spoke to the swingarm, and it works great -- holds the wheel no matter how much force I apply. The problem is, I was standing on the handle of a 2' breaker bar and the nut still won't budge. Since I'm 170lb or so, that's like 340ft-lb put to the nut, right? I mean, after what was lost to whatever amount the breaker bar and straps were flexing, socket couplings interacting and whatever, but still, WTF? Again, torque spec is like 105ft-lb on that nut. Is it plausible that the shop that did my tires really overtorqued it by that much, or am I doing something stupid? I did confirm I'm trying to go in the right direction (lefty-loose-y), and I did remove the cotter pin thing. I don't have a pipe handy that would fit over the breaker bar to give me more leverage, but I guess that's the next step unless someone has another idea. Maybe it's because I'm fairly new to automotive maintenance but it feels like every little incredibly simple thing I try to do turns into some epic battle.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 22:24
|
|
|
You need an impact wrench.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 22:25
|
|
|
Or a normal wrench and a hammer (but I still really want an impact wrench).
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 22:30
|
|
|
Bixington posted:Well, winter and a 1400 mile round trip to St. Louis toasted my rear tire and it's starting to show nice squid belts in the middle Pilot Road 2s or 3s fit my distance and hooning needs.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 22:32
|
|
|
frunksock posted:I had a better idea than 2x4 for breaking my rear wheel nut -- a tie-down strap. So, I strapped a spoke to the swingarm, and it works great -- holds the wheel no matter how much force I apply.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 22:36
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Pilot Road 2s or 3s fit my distance and hooning needs. Seconding this. Anecdotal trends suggest the 3s aren't as durable as the 2s, but: no. empirical. evidence. They do suck in mud though.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 22:39
|
|
|
Thanks guys. I tried hammering the breaker bar, no luck. The only hammers I have aren't huge, but I was hitting it hard enough to make my left arm (holding the bar) jangly, and to mush up the steel on the handle of the bar. I'm not sure I want to get a compressor setup yet. Would an electric deliver more torque than I already am? Is it a bad idea to try lengthening the breaker bar first?
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 23:02
|
|
|
frunksock posted:Thanks guys. I tried hammering the breaker bar, no luck. The only hammers I have aren't huge, but I was hitting it hard enough to make my left arm (holding the bar) jangly, and to mush up the steel on the handle of the bar. It's not that it delivers more torque, it's that it delivers in repeated, sudden bursts. But yes, a cheap corded electric will probably blast that thing right off. Get a good impact socket for it though too.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 23:07
|
|
|
No way hammering on a 2ft breaker bar was putting more force on than you jumping up and down on it. Try lengthening the bar first and then go to the store of your choice and get a torque wrench to avoid whatever situation the last retard put you in by torquing it this far. I've been wanting an electric impact myself. I'm tempted to grab a cheapie harbor freight one but I fear it'd torque itself apart on the third bolt.
|
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 23:08
|
|
|
If you're liberally smacking a breaker bar at full tilt with a hammer then somebody both over-torqued the thing to hell and put a fuckoff amount of red Loctite in it or something even more horrible.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 23:12
|
|
|
Okay, thanks again. JP -- well, I wasn't jumping up and down on it, more like very carefully and slowly getting my weight onto it while balancing myself with a hand on the wall. As far as hammering it, I'm not sure I'd say full tilt, since I had to put some energy into keeping the socket on the nut and making accurate hits on the handle. But either way, yeah, I'm definitely putting down more a lot more torque than should be necessary. I'm a little pissed at the shop, between this and stealing the shims from my front brakes. Munroe Motors, for anyone else in the bay area, though to be fair, I've only heard positive things from other people.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 23:23
|
|
|
You tried heating it up? Also soak it with some pb blaster.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2012 23:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 19:00 |
|
|
I need to repair the oil drain hole on my swingarm. Apparently their torque specs in the FSM are pretty far off and I way overtightened when I changed the oil, stripping the threads in the aluminum swingarm. I got it to seat securely but next time I drain the swingarm fluid I should probably repair it. Done a little research and it seems like, short of taking the drat thing off the bike to install a time-sert or heli-coil, I could get away with an oversize self-tapping piggyback plug. That way I only have to re-thread into the aluminum once, and then I have a nice steel-on-steel drain plug for the future. Good idea or best idea? (Yes, I keep my oil in the swing arm)
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2012 00:13
|
|