|
I got mine by setting up IFTTT to give me an SMS when a new Miata hardtop was posted, and then called the guy within five minutes of posting the ad and sent a deposit through my bank while waiting for my morning coffee.
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 04:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 06:50 |
|
|
I've seen several sub $800 ones locally. Don't know why they are being posted so low here. Mine was listed for $700 when I called the guy and said I'd come get it over lunch, he offered to knock $50 off the price. I was confused but happy.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 11:44
|
|
|
Hardtop chat: Has anyone ever seen an NC with a hardtop (not counting the PRHT)? I looked at some old literature and saw it was offered, but I've never seen one in the wild. I'll see the occasional clapped out NA or NB with a hardtop, but never an NC. I guess the folks who would have ponied up for one ended up waiting for the 2008 PRHT
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 15:37
|
|
|
Taco Box posted:Hardtop chat: Has anyone ever seen an NC with a hardtop (not counting the PRHT)? I looked at some old literature and saw it was offered, but I've never seen one in the wild. I'll see the occasional clapped out NA or NB with a hardtop, but never an NC. I guess the folks who would have ponied up for one ended up waiting for the 2008 PRHT I've seen pics but never one in person. Then there's this beauty that never made it to market.  http://www.roadster-nc.com/2013/08/fastback-hardtop.html
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 15:44
|
|
|
Taco Box posted:Hardtop chat: Has anyone ever seen an NC with a hardtop (not counting the PRHT)? I looked at some old literature and saw it was offered, but I've never seen one in the wild. I'll see the occasional clapped out NA or NB with a hardtop, but never an NC. I guess the folks who would have ponied up for one ended up waiting for the 2008 PRHT When I worked in parts for a Mazda dealer we got them in quite a bit, and sent a lot back because they packed them lovely so the paint would get hosed up. They are pretty much the same as NA/NB hard tops, not a whole lot of difference iirc.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 16:12
|
|
|
They're definitely out there. Dunno where you can buy one. 
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 16:12
|
|
|
I've seen a handful around NC. The Continental Tire MX5s run them. The hardtop from Mazdaspeed is about 2.2k. Can't remember if that's with or without shipping; list is 3500 or so.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 16:18
|
|
|
poxin posted:I believe anytime you replace the stock unit you would need a steering wheel control adapter as well. Unless there are headunits that have that built in? Seconding the Axxess, I have one in my Jeep and it works great. Very easy to set up, it autodetects most cars and head units.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2015 16:40
|
|
|
For anyone who hasn't replaced that stupid water plug on the back of their 1.6, do it now. It's easier with the CAS out, so replace the CAS o-ring while you're in there. Or, don't replace the stupid plug and get stranded as it pisses coolant out after disintegrating. 
GP035 fucked around with this message at 02:09 on May 24, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 02:06
|
|
|
Are there ramps that work well with the NA? Would be nice to have some for oil changes/inspections so I don't have to subject my 25 year old jack points to any undue stress.G Money posted:For anyone who hasn't replaced that stupid water plug on the back of their 1.6, do it now. It's easier with the CAS out, so replace the CAS o-ring while you're in there. I have a small leak from the CAS and will check this out as well.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 13:44
|
|
|
Gorson posted:Are there ramps that work well with the NA? Would be nice to have some for oil changes/inspections so I don't have to subject my 25 year old jack points to any undue stress. Race Ramps make some awesome low profile ramps with a lot of nice features. You could also go nuts and buy a QuickJack. No idea where you'd mount it on the Miata (I assume on the frame rails) but it would be awesome.
|
|
#
?
May 24, 2015 16:24
|
|
|
Are there any specific rollbars for NB's that you guys recommend?
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 02:37
|
|
|
Are you putting in a fixed back seat with 5/6 point harnesses?
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 03:52
|
|
|
Are you planning on wearing a helmet?
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 04:31
|
|
|
Keeping the stock seat right now. I plan on wearing a helmet. Getting the roll bar for autocross.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 04:48
|
|
|
You plan on wearing a helmet for your daily commute? You don't need a roll bar for autocross.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 04:49
|
|
|
Phone posted:You plan on wearing a helmet for your daily commute? Oh. Well nevermind then.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 04:57
|
|
|
Yeah forget about a rollbar unless you like your head bouncing off metal in a street collision.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 04:58
|
|
|
leica posted:Yeah forget about a rollbar unless you like your head bouncing off metal in a street collision. Okay MOM. Jeeeeeze.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 05:14
|
|
|
You can do it though, your head is thick enough!
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2015 05:21
|
|
|
So I was driving my new nb for most of the day. After driving for a few hours I notice that the shifter and my right leg and feet started getting very hot. I looked under the hood and the coolant tank is empty. There is no leak that I've noticed (no coolant on the ground) so what could the problem be? The temp gauge didn't even go above the mid point. I'm hoping this is a cheap fix or else I got pretty hosed by the seller.
Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 02:23 on May 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 02:18
|
|
|
Wait for the car to cool down and then check the overflow tank.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 02:32
|
|
|
I thought the heat was normal. Mine got cooler after I replaced both of the cracked to hell shifter boots. While doing those, replace the shifter bushing and turret fluid.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 02:35
|
|
|
Also see if you need to replace your shift boots. If they're old and cracked, they let a surprising amount of heat out. Lower: M513-17-480A Upper: NA01-64-481B Shift bushings while you've got it apart: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/SHIFT-BUSHING-KIT-%28PKMIAD1033%29.html efb:
Viper915 fucked around with this message at 02:43 on May 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 02:40
|
|
|
Engine is mostly cool. Nothing in the overflow tank.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 03:19
|
|
|
Partial Octopus posted:So I was driving my new nb for most of the day. After driving for a few hours I notice that the shifter and my right leg and feet started getting very hot. I looked under the hood and the coolant tank is empty. There is no leak so what could the problem be? The temp gauge didn't even go above the mid point. I'm hoping this is a cheap fix or else I got pretty hosed by the seller. For what it's worth, my MSM, which is an NB, vents heat into the foot area with no actual overheating problems of the engine itself. I assumed this has something to do with having a turbo, but it could be just an NB thing. I only had an NA to compare it to, and that car ran cold, incidentally. Try turning the air/heating system to cool; even with it off, it still circulates a little air and the temperature setting will influence the output. Also, again, your main concern is the coolant level in the radiator and not the overflow tank. As Phone said, check it when it cools and fill if necessary, then check it the next time you drive & it cools to compare.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 04:43
|
|
|
It's not just hot air blowing. The shifter as well as the side of the center console we're getting extremely hot. Even the radio was starting to get warm. The engine is completely cool and I see no coolant in the overflow tank. I figure I can just keep filling up the radiator until I can get an appointment with a mechanic. Which type of coolant should I use? I have no idea what the previous owner has been using.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 05:48
|
|
|
Miatas have two areas where heat comes through to the cabin, and that's the exhaust system heat through the shifter/tunnel and the engine bay heat through the cowl. There is a seal between the hood and cowl that's supposed to stop the hot air from coming in but it doesn't work very well when it's new. I replaced mine with a new one and it helped but didn't eliminate it. Keeping the vents on recirculate helps also. I've also completely covered the tunnel with (radiant heat) insulating sound deadener, replaced the shifter boots and insulation and have pretty much eliminated any heat coming from the tunnel. An air scoop is going to be next  [e] I suppose if it's getting REALLY abnormaly hot the only thing I can think of is that the cat is failing and heating the poo poo out of the tunnel or something. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 06:14 on May 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 06:09
|
|
|
The car is obviously on fire.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 06:13
|
|
|
Partial Octopus posted:It's not just hot air blowing. The shifter as well as the side of the center console we're getting extremely hot. Even the radio was starting to get warm. Your car might very well be on fire like Rhyno said. Did you remember to check it for fires before finalizing the purchase?  In all seriousness though, I wouldn't worry too much about the heat coming from the shifter/console (as leica described.) That's kinda normal, and without having a frame of reference to compare it it could be at a normal temperature (this is your first Miata, after all.) My NB, for example, actually seems to emit less heat from around the shifter boot compared to my NA, and as I said they were opposite in terms of the actual operational heat. (I also had an exhaust issue with the NA, and it broke at a flex joint and had to be replaced. I don't remember if the heat emanating decreased after the repairs, this was several years ago.) You could, I suppose, get a digital infrared thermometer and measure values around (and under) the car if you're still concerned and want to compare them to values from other Miatas. Also, were you driving with the top down? You should've been, and if that's the case the entire interior will heat up; it'll be most obvious in the areas you mentioned since they're warm during normal operation. (Ask me about having a Miata in the Summer with an all-black interior!) You can use a lot of things for coolant, but I don't think it's a huge deal as long as it's appropriate for your climate. Just use an antifreeze premix, or buy antifreeze and dilute with distilled water. Something like 25-35% of the antifreeze in water will probably be fine for your climate (otherwise follow the chart on the bottle.) As long as it doesn't freeze (e.g. you use 100% distilled water in a climate that has sub-freezing Winters) you'll be fine. Let it cool, fill the radiator, fill the reservoir, and then see how that goes. I think you'll be just fine.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 08:32
|
|
|
The 2003 NB LS (so the last hot VVT one) i used to drive got the transmission tunnel oven-level hot each and every time i gave it a workout. I think its just some kind of result of the shape of the 6 speed in a transmission tunnel designed for another transmission. Maybe it leaves less space for air so the air heating you up will be hotter. Sometimes way way hotter. Design flaw from a broke car company who knew they would sell them anyway. Possibly some NB's make slightly more power than others (not unheard of in production) and get that tunnel just slightly hotter. This is not to be confused with heat from the shifter, which is something else and can be fixed. It didnt bother me because racecar. Heat from the radio? Maybe you listen to nonstop techno at full volume.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 12:52
|
|
|
The exhaust is right there, too.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 13:03
|
|
|
My transmission tunnel, and radio area get very hot. Probably because of worn out shifter stuff. It's normal, not the end of the world. 99nb with a 5speed.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 13:07
|
|
|
Its certainly odd, The NA doesnt get warm at all. I dont even have a center console, just cheap home depot carpet, and i've tried to feel that old heat and its icy cool. Different sized transmissions is the only explanation that makes sense to me. (and yes exhausts and heat shields are all right there. Check to see if your heat shield is intact i guess)
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 13:33
|
|
|
There is no difference between the NA and NB 5-speeds. I think the NC unit might be the same as well.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 13:55
|
|
|
Well my car isn't on fire. I looked in the radiator and it was filled. The overflow tank still went from half full to empty in about 3 days of moderate driving though. I filled it back up and I'll keep an eye on it.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 14:23
|
|
|
I rode in an NA with completely stripped interior - no center console or carpets or anything. After a few laps around a short track, the whole transmission tunnel was too hot to touch for more than a few seconds  My NBFL gets pretty toasty too, even in normal operation. Like not OMG hot but certainly enough to be somewhat disconcerting to someone without prior Miata experience.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 14:26
|
|
|
So a friend of mine is buying an $1100 basket case '90 NA and I'm trying to think of what might be wrong with it. The symptoms are that when you rev the car from idle with no load, it lugs for a split second before revving freely. It also does this with load, which makes getting it started even in first a bit of a challenge. Above 4500 rpm there's no more lugging from a rev and it takes off like a rocket. Naturally, I figured open loop closed loop. You can tap the gas without stalling it, so the insanely complicated 80s idle control is working great. I can't wobble the crank pulley by hand, and it doesn't seem to wobble when the car is idling, so I don't think it's an SNC problem. Here's what the PO replaced:
Here's what we replaced last night:
Compression test came out to ~130 for all four cylinders cold, so no problems there. The engine sounds super strong but does idle a little patchily (without the chronic vibrations that I would expect). It still does it. The only thing I can think of is clogged cat, because it feels like a 'breathing out' problem (it makes intake noise, the revs start to climb, then it feels congested and holds until it gets up enough engine inertia to push the exhaust out). It also smells fairly rich but I haven't been around the car on anything but a cold start so I'm putting that fairly low down in the list of symptoms. I didn't have a multimeter so I couldn't diagnose the AFM, but that would also be high up on my list of suspects. I was also suspecting timing. No codes blinked out when we jumped the diagnostic block but it's always possible that the battery was removed before we got there and it lost the codes. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 14:33 on May 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 14:29
|
|
|
Heat chat: After about an hour of solid driving the transmission tunnel in my NA heats up pretty crazy. Haven't been noticing it much these days because the southern Japanese weather is making everything uncomfortably hot. I've been keeping the top up so I can use the air conditioning even.Seat Safety Switch posted:Here's what we replaced last night: That was the one that made my car all boggy and smell like a gas station. Seat Safety Switch posted:The only thing I can think of is clogged cat... Well we all know how to test that. Bring ear plugs. 
RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 14:53 on May 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 14:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 06:50 |
|
|
Now that I think about it a bit more, a clogged cat should affect high RPM function more, right? A plugged cat would decrease laminar flow and crank up the turbulence, and at low RPM that wouldn't matter. Maybe it's just timing.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2015 15:53
|
|