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echomadman posted:The 100w will cook the light housing, just get decent 55w ones, osram silverstars or philips motovisions are good Hows this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO7NGI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01
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May 27, 2012 16:14
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That bulb will work fine, I ran them in my old ST13.
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May 28, 2012 03:25
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I never looked for the bike, but I ran Osram Nighbreakers in my 4Runner and really liked them. If you can find those in your size I'd recommend them.
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May 28, 2012 03:26
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Will a 55w HID bulb cook something like this?
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May 28, 2012 03:42
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At the MSC I drove a 125cc Kawasaki Eliminator, its clutch did not get to the friction point until I let it go almost more than half way out. Are all bike clutches like this or am I just being a big pansy?
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May 28, 2012 22:34
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ElMaligno posted:At the MSC I drove a 125cc Kawasaki Eliminator, its clutch did not get to the friction point until I let it go almost more than half way out. There is a dial next to the clutch that is used to adjust where it grabs at the lever. There is also a circular washer looking thing that can be used as well.
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May 28, 2012 22:47
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I'd say it's probably 2/3rds of the way out before my clutch starts to grab.
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May 29, 2012 00:08
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Turns out the CRF blowby issue isn't fixed like I thought it was. Made it six laps on the track today (3 warmup, 3 at speed) and low sided from oil on the rear. So what are some possible reasons for a ton of oil to be in the air box and crankcase breather tube after such a short run? I'm thinking blocked oil passage or something but am wondering what else could cause it. Bike isn't being overfilled. It put out enough oil in 6 laps to fill a 1'x1/2" tube and the air box enough to leak out...something is wrong.
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May 29, 2012 00:38
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NitroSpazzz posted:Turns out the CRF blowby issue isn't fixed like I thought it was. Made it six laps on the track today (3 warmup, 3 at speed) and low sided from oil on the rear. My f650 started doing that when a seal in the engine shat itself and obstructed an oil return line.
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May 29, 2012 00:51
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Shimrod posted:There is a dial next to the clutch that is used to adjust where it grabs at the lever. There is also a circular washer looking thing that can be used as well.
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May 29, 2012 03:12
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NitroSpazzz posted:So what are some possible reasons for a ton of oil to be in the air box and crankcase breather tube after such a short run? I'm thinking blocked oil passage or something but am wondering what else could cause it.
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May 29, 2012 03:14
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ElMaligno posted:At the MSC I drove a 125cc Kawasaki Eliminator, its clutch did not get to the friction point until I let it go almost more than half way out. Yeah, most bikes are like this, or at least 2/3 of the way out like nasP said. Once you get comfy on a bike, you'll come to love it, because you can shift very smoothly and quickly. I just jab the clutch lever so it moves maybe 10 degrees (just beyond the friction zone) while simultaneously shifting, and smoothly yet quickly release the lever. It's all really quick and fluid partly because the friction zone is so far out. Note: don't worry about being fast while you're still learning, and keep in mind that your right hand will also need to be added to the mix.
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May 29, 2012 03:22
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Just changed my oil in the Ninja 250. I have put a little bit less than 2 quarts in with the usual 1.5 qts then idle for 30 seconds then wait a few minutes then "check the oil" then repeat. I have yet to see more in the sight glass than just the little in the bottom. I was using the lines on the side of the oil bottle as my measurement guide. Maybe that was a bad idea and I need some sort of turkey baster thing. Am I doing something wrong? The only thing I can think of is that since I have it on a rear stand that the oil is going toward the front and not reaching the site glass properly. If it was on the side stand, it would read incorrectly high so my thought was the rear stand was the best bet.
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May 29, 2012 05:02
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Wait so how much oil do you have in there? You don't need to do 1.5 quarts and then let it idle for 30 seconds, just fill it until it's to the full mark, fire it up and run it for 30 seconds or a minute and then check it again and top it off if needed. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_check_my_oil%3F You should be checking it on level ground but it shouldn't make that much of a difference, unless your rear stand has the rear wheel way off the ground for some reason.
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May 29, 2012 05:05
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Does anyone know of some small, waterproof electrical connectors for use on bikes? Im looking for some to use for a 12v outlet that can be mounted somewhere accessible for powering gps and the like, also for plugging in a trickle charger. It doesnt need a particularly high current rating - an amp or two would be fine, but it does need to be protected from the elements when not connected and ideally one half could be panel mounted. Any ideas?
grunthaas fucked around with this message at 11:14 on May 29, 2012 |
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May 29, 2012 11:11
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Z3n posted:Wait so how much oil do you have in there? Wow. The second I read "wait so how much oil do you have in there" it hit me. I assumed I was filling from a 5 quart jug. I had just barely 1 quart in there. Thanks again Z3n
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May 29, 2012 13:57
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 Do you not know the difference between 1 quart and 5 or am I reading your post wrong?
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May 29, 2012 14:12
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echomadman posted:My f650 started doing that when a seal in the engine shat itself and obstructed an oil return line. Yeah looks like it may be a tear down, rather that and find something simple than destroy the thing.
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May 29, 2012 14:28
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grunthaas posted:Does anyone know of some small, waterproof electrical connectors for use on bikes? Im looking for some to use for a 12v outlet that can be mounted somewhere accessible for powering gps and the like, also for plugging in a trickle charger. It doesnt need a particularly high current rating - an amp or two would be fine, but it does need to be protected from the elements when not connected and ideally one half could be panel mounted. Any ideas? I think powerlet makes some waterproof ones  Np xylo
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May 29, 2012 15:33
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grunthaas posted:Does anyone know of some small, waterproof electrical connectors for use on bikes? Im looking for some to use for a 12v outlet that can be mounted somewhere accessible for powering gps and the like, also for plugging in a trickle charger. It doesnt need a particularly high current rating - an amp or two would be fine, but it does need to be protected from the elements when not connected and ideally one half could be panel mounted. Any ideas? From earlier in the thread, I picked up this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1338307455&sr=8-5 and this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1338307455&sr=8-3 Edit: Just watch that you don't leave anything plugged in if you connect directly to the battery, the ignition won't turn off the adapter.
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May 29, 2012 17:05
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blue squares posted:
I thought it was a 5 quart, but I was filling with a 4 quart. I saw the line for 3 quarts left and went just above it for 1.8qts.
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May 29, 2012 18:14
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Dalrain posted:From earlier in the thread, I picked up this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1338307455&sr=8-5 When I start adding any accessories to the bike, I am going to wire up a relay and distribution block to the license plate light so that I don't risk running the battery dead when the ignition is off. It also makes adding any additional accessories very simple.
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May 29, 2012 18:16
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grunthaas posted:Does anyone know of some small, waterproof electrical connectors for use on bikes? Im looking for some to use for a 12v outlet that can be mounted somewhere accessible for powering gps and the like, also for plugging in a trickle charger. It doesnt need a particularly high current rating - an amp or two would be fine, but it does need to be protected from the elements when not connected and ideally one half could be panel mounted. Any ideas?
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May 29, 2012 18:38
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Thanks for the suggestions about power connectors, couldnt find a reasonable price for Powerlet ones here in the UK, but they seem to be just a brand name on a standard part. Found a good deal ebay and they're on they way: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Continental-DIN-HELLA-12V-24V-15-AMP-Power-Socket-/180502774778
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May 29, 2012 22:03
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I'm so bummed out. I just found out that my motorcycle is going to cost 1100$ to repair. I already spent 900$ at the motorcycle shop. Not including the whole day and evening I spent de-rusting the gas tank. Its a GS suzuki 500 2004. I bought it off Craiglist for 1900$ and then when I learnt how to ride it, found out that it would shut down nearly every time I braked. Apparently, what's wrong is something to do with the valves in the engines? And something about de-greasing it. The motorcycle repair shop guys there I think seem pretty honest. Do you guys think I should get the 1100$ to repair it? What do you guys think I should do?
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May 29, 2012 22:39
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dogpower posted:Do you guys think I should get the 1100$ to repair it? What do you guys think I should do? Well, that's impossible to know. If you're rich, but they are wrong, the answer is no. If you're poor and they are correct, the answer is also no. Then there are the "yes" options. Then there are all the gradients in between. Did they give you the exact diagnosis? If "something with the valves" means a good old valve clearance check and adjustment and carbs cleaned and synced, you can do it yourself for less money but it's going to take some tools, space, time and effort.
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May 29, 2012 23:43
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For $1100, I bet you have a burned valve which happens on those bikes when the valves aren't adjusted, and they have to be adjusted every 4k or so. I'd say, personally, sell it and try again.
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May 29, 2012 23:49
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I just took a 6 or 7 mile shakedown ride after finishing up all the work you guys have been helping me with for the past few weeks. Nothing fell off, leaked, exploded, or killed me, so thanks! For those who remember me asking about my front brakes dragging (getting about 1 revolution from a hard shove), I went about a mile using almost no front brake (I had to use a tiny bit a couple of time out of fear, my neighborhood is so steep). The front rotors were slightly warm to the touch, not nearly as warm as the rear. I think after a hundred or two miles, I'll put it back up on the front stand and see if it rotates more, but I'm guessing it's probably okay.
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May 30, 2012 01:00
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One turn to a solid shove sounds about right to me.
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May 30, 2012 01:09
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dogpower posted:I'm so bummed out. I really don't understand how a valve issue would only be apparent under braking, unless its carb float valves they're talking about. for 1100 you could probably buy a whole new engine, or sell the bike as a fixer upper for 1000, add the 1100 you would have spent on fixing it to that and buy a new bike.
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May 30, 2012 01:09
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For 600$, he can fix the valve problem, but he can't promise down the road that the bike wouldn't break down. I'm thinking of going for the cheapest option, riding the bike for a few years (hopefully), and looking at craigslist for good deals. The thing is that I'm hesitant now to buy a motorcycle off craigslist now. And if I buy from a dealer, the motorcycles tend to sell for at least around $4000. So if I fix the bike for the max amount, it will still workout to be the same. But I'm thinking that the next time I buy a bike off craigslist, I'm going to only buy if the owner is willing for me to take the bike to the mechanic first for a check-up. The bike shuts down not when its braking. Only when you decelerate slowly sometimes.
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May 30, 2012 02:40
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Where do you live, maybe someone on here could take a look at it and give you their $.02.
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May 30, 2012 03:28
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:"Klüberplex BE 11-462"
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May 30, 2012 05:44
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Found another one. The S1000RR manual refers to its valve shims as "adjusting plates". As opposed to the K4X and K7X engines in which they are referred to as "oil sinks". Not sure if any of them are called valve shims or not.
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May 30, 2012 06:47
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I don't know if this is a valid worry or not, but I discovered a coolant tank under my seat on my 09 Speed Triple. Thing is, there was absolutely nothing in it, so I don't know if I have been running without coolant. Should I top it up with water in the interim? I can't find an adequate answer online. The bike hasn't been running hot to this point, and I discovered it when the engine was cold, so I don't know if it's an overflow or a reserve.
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May 30, 2012 15:03
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sildargod posted:I don't know if this is a valid worry or not, but I discovered a coolant tank under my seat on my 09 Speed Triple. Thing is, there was absolutely nothing in it, so I don't know if I have been running without coolant. Should I top it up with water in the interim? I can't find an adequate answer online. The bike hasn't been running hot to this point, and I discovered it when the engine was cold, so I don't know if it's an overflow or a reserve. According to google that's the expansion tank. http://www.scribd.com/doc/22841092/Triumph-Speed-Triple-1050-Owners-Manual-T595NJ-2-OHB-UK Check page 64.
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May 30, 2012 15:09
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n8r posted:Where do you live, maybe someone on here could take a look at it and give you their $.02. I live in Vancouver, British Columbia.
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May 30, 2012 15:34
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sildargod posted:I don't know if this is a valid worry or not, but I discovered a coolant tank under my seat on my 09 Speed Triple. Thing is, there was absolutely nothing in it, so I don't know if I have been running without coolant. Should I top it up with water in the interim? I can't find an adequate answer online. The bike hasn't been running hot to this point, and I discovered it when the engine was cold, so I don't know if it's an overflow or a reserve. It's an overflow and there should be lines on it indicating if it should have water in it or not.
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May 30, 2012 15:35
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Ola posted:According to google that's the expansion tank. Which says "Check the coolant level in the expansiontank. The coolant level must be between theMAX and MIN 'stepped' features mouldedinto the expansion tank. If the coolant isbelow the minimum level, the coolant levelmust be adjusted. ... Remove the cap from the expansion tank and add coolant mixture through the filler opening until the level reaches the MAXmark. Refit the cap." The non-boring, non-predictable option is to wind it up to max velocity, throw yourself off and then claim on insurance for the smouldering wreckage. I mean, why take chances riding around on a bike that might have been a little low on coolant at some stage.
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May 30, 2012 16:41
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sildargod posted:I don't know if I have been running without coolant. Well, then you definitely aren't running without any coolant. Could still be lower than intended,though, as the other people said.
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May 30, 2012 16:44
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