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eddiewalker posted:I've been using custom-molded IEMs, the hard acrylic shell kind, running to my . Great isolation and I can wear them for hours outside my helmet. With the helmet on, it's like having rocks hammered into my skull. My ears canals are way too small for normal isolating phones. In fact the doctor was shocked when she took my molds You better wear some sort of ear plugs or kiss your hearing goodbye. At highway speeds you are going to need it going at ear bleeding levels to hear anything. As far as ear plugs I use the same cheap rear end disposable ones that everyone else recommends. Doesn't matter how small your ear canal is because they are soft. Make sure your helmet has some decent ear pockets. Having helmet speakers rub against your ears sucks rear end.
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Jun 17, 2012 02:28
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So maybe I'm dumb, but aside from Bluetooth version and about $50, what's the difference between the Sena SMA5 and SMA10?
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Jun 17, 2012 02:34
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Is there a difference between the Bandit 1200 and Bandit 600 valve covers? I can't find any 1200's for sale but plenty of 600's.  But my new head gasket will be here Monday and my spark plug cover gaskets later this week.  Oh and what are my options for larger grips? My hands are so large that I can't even fully wrap around the handlebars because the tips of my fingers touch my palm. 
Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Jun 17, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 07:26
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Xovaan posted:Is there a difference between the Bandit 1200 and Bandit 600 valve covers? I can't find any 1200's for sale but plenty of 600's. I think there might be. Are there any stamps on the cover you've got? There's 3 different part numbers for Bandit valve covers. One of them is for both 600 and 1200 while one of them is 1200 only and has the breather placed a tad off. There's also a slight difference in the rise for the valve-chain spokes and chains. A 600 cover might fit, but I certainly wouldn't bet on it. Why do you need a new valve cover. Didn't Z3n just buy you that brutal road-train? If it's just because it's ugly and pitted, there's an easy fix for that. Suzuki aluminum alloy of that decade can be polished to chrome glance relatively easily once you get rid of the clear-coat. For grips there are tons of options. Ask for adjustable ham-fist grips at your local dealer. He'll find something that'll fit you. If not make threatening choke moves with those elephant fists. Better try the fit live than buying something on the Internet you'll have to return. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Jun 17, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 10:02
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Is there any particular brands you guys recommend for ear plugs? I picked up some cheap brand from my local bike store but I have trouble inserting them as they don't seem to stay compressed long enough to actually get them inserted properly.
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Jun 17, 2012 10:28
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Do you set race sag with your bike on a stand? My manual for the Husqvarna says yes, but obviously the bike isn't going to sag if it is on a center stand so that makes no sense to me at all unless I'm missing something. Edit: On a completely unrelated note, what's with the butt plugs in the exhaust pipes of sumos and dirtbikes? Horrible tragic crash-and-die if a bug flies in there or something? Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Jun 17, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 11:19
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Safety Dance posted:So maybe I'm dumb, but aside from Bluetooth version and about $50, what's the difference between the Sena SMA5 and SMA10? There's a chart with all the differences. The firmware updates are stupid easy too.
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Jun 17, 2012 11:56
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Gnaghi posted:Edit: On a completely unrelated note, what's with the butt plugs in the exhaust pipes of sumos and dirtbikes? Horrible tragic crash-and-die if a bug flies in there or something? Flame arrester so you don't set trails on fire
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Jun 17, 2012 14:27
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Snowdens Secret posted:Flame arrester so you don't set trails on fire He's talking about the rubber plugs, I believe. Those are just to keep rain and other water out, like when you hose the bike off. Really though, they're just a place to hang that "remove before flight" lanyard that literally everyone owns from eBay.
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Jun 17, 2012 14:39
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:Is there any particular brands you guys recommend for ear plugs? I picked up some cheap brand from my local bike store but I have trouble inserting them as they don't seem to stay compressed long enough to actually get them inserted properly. Hearos makes the best foamies I've found. But them almost anywhere for not much money.
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Jun 17, 2012 15:07
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Olde Weird Tip posted:He's talking about the rubber plugs, I believe. Those are just to keep rain and other water out, like when you hose the bike off. Yeah I was talking about plugs in the end of the exhaust, like the blue plug seen here:  What's the flame arrestor, the rubbery looking thing wrapped around the endcap, this thing? 
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Jun 17, 2012 15:30
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The arrester is inside the pipe. The rubber thing is a crash guard specific to supermoto
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Jun 17, 2012 16:40
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Ok that makes sense. Found the answer to my other question too: quote:Put it on a stand to measure the distance with the suspension fully extended [A], then off the stand measure with you+gear sitting on the bike (race sag) [B], adjust the spring preload so your race sag is correct, then measure just the bike (free sag)[C]. A-B is your race sag and A-C is your free sag.
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Jun 17, 2012 17:22
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Gnaghi posted:Ok that makes sense.
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Jun 17, 2012 17:56
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Dave moss knows his poo poo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK3flKxf41U
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Jun 17, 2012 22:13
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:In Yamaha class they teach to measure the sag of the bike under its own weight too, and factor that in somehow to make sure you have the right progressive range of motion or something. I wish I had the instructions here with me, it sounded like a good idea. I did that too. 25 1/4" in the air, 24 1/4" on the ground and 22" with me on it geared up. According to the manual that's an inch too stiff, yet everyone my weight says they run a stiffer spring. I have to see what race tech/halls cycles recommends.
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Jun 18, 2012 00:59
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3 and a quarter inches of loaded sag is crazy, especially if you're on a sumo...could be ok on a dirt bike I guess but seems like a lot then too.
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Jun 18, 2012 05:08
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KARMA! posted:Dave moss knows his poo poo.
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Jun 18, 2012 07:49
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I've had my suspension setup by Rob at Evolution suspension in Santa Clara by the San Jose airport, definitely knows his poo poo too. best 40$ spent on 2 of my bikes. GSX-R 1000, he backed off preload in the forks a lot, and adjusted the clickers a bit. he backed off preload on the rear shock a lot too and adjusted it for high/lowspeed compression and rebound, since apparently the whole bike was setup way too stiff for me, Previous owner was a pretty hefty 250+lb guy and I weigh around 190. The ride was definitely improved a lot on the street, apparently the gsx-r 1000 forks have a pretty narrow range in their motion that is actually damped, so for around 300$ he said he could put better oil in them, and a less stiff spring for my weight, and do a little work on them that'll give them a greater range of damping motion. Definitely something i'm considering. My Tuono factory didn't need a huge amount of adjustment since, backed off preload a little in the front and adjusted the rebound/compression, rear shock preload was perfect for me already and he adjusted the rebound/compression which uses hand dials instead of needing a screwdriver, took him about half the time to setup the Ohlins suspension for me instead of the gsx-r 1000.
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Jun 18, 2012 09:26
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Sir Cornelius posted:I think there might be. Are there any stamps on the cover you've got? There's 3 different part numbers for Bandit valve covers. One of them is for both 600 and 1200 while one of them is 1200 only and has the breather placed a tad off. There's also a slight difference in the rise for the valve-chain spokes and chains. A 600 cover might fit, but I certainly wouldn't bet on it. The reason I need a new valve cover is because it was not made of massive brute elephant hands; one of the breather bolt threads stripped which is now creating a fine leak down the side of my engine and onto my exhaust. My options are to either helicoil it, re-tap it, put some RTV or JB on it, or get a new cover entirely if I can find one for cheap. Once this is done, I need to put on a Cometic gasket for the 1216 kit since the previous owner ran the stock OEM headgasket and not the one that comes with the one Dale Walker sells on his site. While I'm in there, I might as well do the valves... and the clutch and exhaust gaskets since both parts came with the bike. But once that's all done it will be perfect. Perfect. 
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Jun 18, 2012 10:02
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infraboy posted:I've had my suspension setup by Rob at Evolution suspension in Santa Clara by the San Jose airport, definitely knows his poo poo too. best 40$ spent on 2 of my bikes. Suspension is one of the things I'd really rather just pay someone to do, but then I can't say "oh my bike is running wide think I'll turn this clicker up", etc. Probably going to be a lot of trial and error, though.
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Jun 18, 2012 10:55
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infraboy posted:I've had my suspension setup by Rob at Evolution suspension in Santa Clara by the San Jose airport, definitely knows his poo poo too. best 40$ spent on 2 of my bikes. Where do you live? I'm in Felton and looking to get my Bandit's suspension dialed in for the summer. I think I'll check this guy out!
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Jun 18, 2012 11:22
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Xovaan posted:Where do you live? I'm in Felton and looking to get my Bandit's suspension dialed in for the summer. I think I'll check this guy out! If there is a racetrack nearby you there are typically guys that show up most track days that offer suspension setups cheap. Nearby here there's a guy who does it for 30 bucks at every track day.
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Jun 18, 2012 15:42
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:In Yamaha class they teach to measure the sag of the bike under its own weight too, and factor that in somehow to make sure you have the right progressive range of motion or something. I wish I had the instructions here with me, it sounded like a good idea. The goal of measuring static sag (bike) vs. race sag (bike plus rider) is to determine whether you have a stiff enough spring. The results are counterintuitive. Too much preload will reduce your static sag and indicate a need for a stiffer spring. Read on. The first thing you do is measure the total sag of rider plus bike. You then dial that in to whatever is recommended using preload. You want somewhere around 30% of travel on a dirt bike? Then you measure static sag. You want the bike to sag on its own 8-12% or whatever. What you'll find is that if you used a ton of preload to get your 30% race sag, the bike will not sag on its own. The reason for that is that the spring has been PRE-loaded to more than the weight of the bike (where every inch of preload = X kg of weight). That means that the spring cannot compress any further until Y additional kilos are applied. To get adequate static sag but still get your target race sag, you need a stiffer spring. Hypothetically a stiffer spring could require no preload at all. In that situation it would respond to compression completely linearly. Every kg of weight would press it down some fraction. This is good for static sag, because it means the bike can compress the spring on its own, whereas it could not with the preloaded spring. (For context, if you took the weaker spring and removed all preload, it would get more static sag than the stiffer spring, but then you'd blow through your travel when measuring race sag.) In reality you need to apply some preload, but you can use less with a stiffer spring because the spring rate itself will help reduce the final amount the spring compresses under race sag. So, paradoxically, a stiffer spring adjusted to correct race sag will actually behave better at lower loadings (static sag). MotoMind fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Jun 18, 2012 |
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Jun 18, 2012 16:07
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What's the recommended method for de-stankifying a motorcycle helmet?
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Jun 18, 2012 17:39
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I have a dryer sheet in mine under the strap in the top.
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Jun 18, 2012 17:40
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Safety Dance posted:What's the recommended method for de-stankifying a motorcycle helmet? The easiest way is to remove the liner/pads and throw it in the washing machine (+ air dry). Otherwise, I don't know. Febreeze?
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Jun 18, 2012 17:55
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:The easiest way is to remove the liner/pads and throw it in the washing machine (+ air dry). Otherwise, I don't know. Febreeze? I use a home dry clean kit for my helmet padding. Seems to work well enough.
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Jun 18, 2012 18:06
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I've pulled my pads out and hand washed them, but be careful pulling them out because you can break the plastic fasteners that attach it to the shell if you're a bit heavy handed. Done the same with old helmets that I use as karting helmets now because they get sweaty as hell.
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Jun 18, 2012 18:20
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MotoMind posted:The goal of measuring static sag... I was size-shopping an array of Japanese death machines the other day, and it seems to me they've all gained 1"+ in stock seat height over the last few years. I'm around 5'9" and 29-30" inseam, which makes these well beyond flat-footable. I would really like to pursue one of these things, but I don't feel like throwing links, dogbones, cut seat, and a bunch of hacktastic workarounds at the problem, potentially winding up with a mess geometry-wise. Is there anyone left that puts out something in the 30" range, or am I stuck in cruiserville for the rest of my days?
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Jun 18, 2012 18:24
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Marv Hushman posted:I was size-shopping an array of Japanese death machines the other day, and it seems to me they've all gained 1"+ in stock seat height over the last few years. I'm around 5'9" and 29-30" inseam, which makes these well beyond flat-footable. You'll adjust to it pretty quickly, just takes a little more care with where you put your foot.
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Jun 18, 2012 18:26
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Marv Hushman posted:Is there anyone left that puts out something in the 30" range, or am I stuck in cruiserville for the rest of my days? Its something you'll get used to. After riding the Ulysses around for 4 months with my 30" inseam, anything else feels uncomfortably close to the pavement.
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Jun 18, 2012 18:46
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There's no reason you can't ride one. You only need one foot down at a light. I keep my left foot on the shifter, right foot on the ground and have the front brake in. Scoot your rear end off the seat a bit if you really need to flat foot and learn not to park on downhill sloped surfaces unless you backed in. I can only tip-toe both feet on the ground at once on the R6 and it works out okay for me.
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Jun 18, 2012 19:46
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clutchpuck posted:Its something you'll get used to. After riding the Ulysses around for 4 months with my 30" inseam, anything else feels uncomfortably close to the pavement. If you're talking the Uly with the 35" seat, about the only way I'm getting on it is if I make a deal with the Pinball Wizard: 
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Jun 18, 2012 23:17
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Marv Hushman posted:If you're talking the Uly with the 35" seat, about the only way I'm getting on it is if I make a deal with the Pinball Wizard: Its only 33"! The 07+ models came with a 31" saddle because apparently the 33" is too tall. I'm only using it as illustration; we're about the same height and I got pretty comfortable with a tall bike, plus most other bikes are a couple inches shorter at least. It's definitely nice being able to see over SUVs and Ram trucks though.
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Jun 18, 2012 23:22
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clutchpuck posted:Its only 33"! The 07+ models came with a 31" saddle because apparently the 33" is too tall. I'm only using it as illustration; we're about the same height and I got pretty comfortable with a tall bike, plus most other bikes are a couple inches shorter at least. Ah ok, I saw at least two sources that say 35, but it appears to have been '06 only: http://www.pashnit.com/bikes/BuellUlysses.htm Yeah, sounds like a complete mindset adjustment. After reading up on it, flatfooting x2 appears to be more of a concern for absolute beginners, when I thought it was mandatory in all cases.
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Jun 18, 2012 23:47
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Xovaan posted:Where do you live? I'm in Felton and looking to get my Bandit's suspension dialed in for the summer. I think I'll check this guy out! I live up in Marin County.... it's about an hour away from Santa Clara, gives me an excuse to go for a long ride though! I've considered bringing in my ZX-6R, but the current settings feel really good for the riding I do. It's a cool shop, they have a few bikes for sale too, it's run by a nice British couple, they have an awesome dog who kinda roams around, when I brought in my Tuono it was literally drooling over it. Suspension setups are one of those things where it takes a few other guys to help out, you sit on the bike as he takes measurements while one guy is holding it at the balance point to measure the sag and adjust the preload and the clickers.
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Jun 19, 2012 00:21
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So, my 2001 SV650 has this gray/white header wrap on it. It's not very attractive, and is fraying and stuff. I wanna take it off and perhaps replace it with black wrap. How do I remove the wrap on there? Can I just slice it off with a razor blade or do I have to unravel it? Do I need special gloves (fiberglass)?
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Jun 19, 2012 00:54
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Gloves are probably a good idea. If you don't care about the headers just use a utility knife and cut it off. If you get metal zip-ties the job isn't too hard to do from what I've seen it's just tedious.
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Jun 19, 2012 01:03
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You can probably slice it off but it won't be a clean slice and you risk marring up the pipe... though if its wrapped, it's probably ugly already. You can also unravel it if that suits you better. I would wear some nitrile gloves for the job, but I drat near always wear gloves when working on a machine.
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Jun 19, 2012 01:03
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