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Whose nice looking Dart?
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Jun 9, 2013 05:43
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OneOverZero posted:Oh, of course I did. That cable goes up under the cab carpet and connects to the e-brake foot pedal mechanism. Thus why I never want anything to do with changing one out. The sad thing is that mine was seized with rust and my "custom" end to make it work for inspection last year likely isn't going to cut it again this year. So I'm probably in the same boat as you now - and my inspection is up at the end of this month. God. Damnit.  Also, you'll be glad to know that the front cable IS available. I have no idea how I missed it last time. Rockauto stocks it and it's a budget-busting $15. So it's just the lovely proposition of tearing up the carpet and possibly removing the drivers seat to get at the drat thing, then... I bet I can stuff mine under there through a rust hole and never even pull the carpet out. So not only did I learn something today while being wrong, I learned something today that I need to handle by the end of the month 
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Jun 9, 2013 13:30
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Rear parking brake cables came from Canada, front came from... Turkey? I think it's the first part I've received aus Turkei. Interesting. I'd let you know how much time I spend cursing at routing the front, but you'll no doubt beat me to it.kimbo305 posted:Whose nice looking Dart?  I loved the Abarths but wanted to retain some practicality and I-40 cruise comfort - voila. The torque curve continues to throws me for a loop and the fuel door is on the wrong side, but the fuel savings versus the XJ are considerable. Eat a  , rust. It's minimal, though. The spare tire mount of course sheared a mount bolt using a 1/4" ratchet after a thorough heat cycle and soak. Not really sure how I want to pursue that because I don't have CommieGIR's EZ-Out talents and will probably end up nesting them like Russian dolls. The top of the crossmember is bubbled but not eaten, while the inside of the X appeared to be full of carpet padding until I fished it out (not packrats, so... what?). Next week I'm going to prep the frame for POR-15 Chassis Coat before running the brakes - lines, hoses all around, calipers, wheel cylinders, entire parking brake system, etc. Ugh.This would be the perfect opportunity to swap to an 8.25 and discs, but eh.
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Jun 18, 2013 03:15
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 I saw this and I thought it was cool.
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Jun 19, 2013 03:00
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OneOverZero posted:Rear parking brake cables came from Canada, front came from... Turkey? I think it's the first part I've received aus Turkei. Interesting. I'd let you know how much time I spend cursing at routing the front, but you'll no doubt beat me to it. That's really quite unlikely. I said I'm due for an inspection at the end of the month, not that I have any hope of meeting that deadline... I've got about 20 square feet of sheetmetal to convert from "structural carpet" and "high clearance rocker" to something that'll pass inspection before I can even think about the parking brake.
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Jun 19, 2013 03:37
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commissargribb posted:
Rooftop tents are awesome. Hang them off the back or the side and you can make a whole bottom floor breezeway/screened in porch thing around the truck.
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Jun 19, 2013 04:04
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What's hours away from starting and leaks coolant out of a mysterious spot between the engine and trans?  A few days ago, I filled the radiator and dumped a little coolant into the thermostat housing. I'm glad I fed some into the engine, as after I Simple Green'd my entire garage, I noticed a fresh trail. Before I assumed it was brake fluid from the failed seal on the old slave cyl, but it's very obviously bright green Prestone coming off the RMS and crossover. I ran my hand along the back of the block under the head and stayed dry, so I'm assuming that the galley plug behind the flywheel is the only possible source. I have photographic evidence of it in the block during the assembly process, though... god, I hope it's just gone. Since the Brown Dog motor mounts essentially rule out tilting the driveline and pulling the AX15 with the truck on stands, my options are (1) pulling the entire driveline once again or (2) calling a local trans shop to see if they can remove it on a lift without tilting the engine. If nothing else, I have standard bolts rather than E12s at the top of the bellhousing. Also, nickel-copper brake line is without a doubt the nicest stuff I've ever worked with. It looks a little wonky running across the rear axle, but anything corrosion-resistant and that easy to flare is cool in my book. commissargribb posted:
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Jun 30, 2013 00:26
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Yup, it's one of the new freeze plugs in the back of the block. This'll be fun. I've finished running all new brake lines with the XJ distribution block (probably going to install an adjustable proportioning valve in the line to the rear at some point), though the NAPA/Cardone calipers and Bendix front hoses are incorrect on this truck. The driver's front hose is correct, though the passenger mounting bolt is on the opposite side relative to the orientation pin on the hose end itself - they're both drilled for the driver's-side hose (...what). No clue what's up with the calipers, though. They slot in perfectly on the trailing side, but fitment against the leading side is way off and at least a third of the piston (metal, though I ordered phenolic due to availability) is exposed above the inboard pad. I wish I hadn't already returned my old calipers as a core, as I have a feeling these were packaged incorrectly... 
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 16:37
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If it makes you feel any better, the freeze plug on the back of my cylinder head let go the first time I drove it, after fixing the brakes and other stuff, and paying up registration and insurance. that's not the worst part...the worst part is that once the head was off, I saw that the PO had "repaired" the leaking freeze plug with JB Weld or similar. So, he sold it to me knowing it was screwed up.
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Jul 7, 2013 22:31
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I blew the freeze plug on my folks 95 while in highschool. We drove it to the dealer with no coolant and it was fine. Also, You wouldn't be the first goon to pull their driveline twice. I've pulled the motor on my RS twice in under a few weeks span.
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Jul 8, 2013 01:22
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Today was the first tolerable day in a month that it hasn't rained, so prime time to do something about leaking coolant systems. Not on the MJ, of course. It can leak all it wants. Recycled what I could of the minimal remaining coolant in the XJ and got to work flushing it...  Champion two-row with some good-looking welds! I'd forgotten how much I hate the plastic drain on the factory radiator, so the brass NPT plug is a welcome addition. Going to redo those driving light grounds while I'm at it - pretty sure I made them more than ten years ago and it's not exactly electrically robust. Might just relay them off the high-beam side of the auxiliary headlight harness. Hopefully I'll get a chance to blast the remaining undercoating off the MJ's rear frame this week, depending on my ability to borrow a pressure washer. There's a gallon of POR15 Marine Clean and Chassis Coat waiting to go on.
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Jul 29, 2013 04:17
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 Good news is that yes, it is a freeze plug. Bad news is that (1) the freeze plug is up front and pretty much impossible to get to, and (2) the plug is pressed correctly, meaning that the block likely has some porosity. I'm really hoping that the coolant galleys haven't corroded horribly since it's been sitting. Red line indicates the path that the coolant takes to gently caress me over. With a good light, it's pretty obvious in the full-size images.    Should've done some more paintwork on the crank. Hopefully the RMS leaks enough to take care of that. What's the word on using a quality block sealant? I've always been leery of anything that sidesteps actually fixing the problem, but the owner of the trans shop recommended that I try K&W Block Seal before moving ahead with replacing the plug, particularly since the plug itself likely isn't the issue. If I went this route, I'd probably just keep feeding distilled water into the radiator long enough to break in the engine (assuming the pressurized leak rate isn't insane) and then flush everything a few times to ensure proper conditions for the sealant.
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Aug 5, 2013 22:51
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HEY ONEOVERZERO This just popped up on CL right near me: http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/4014582870.html "I have a wrecked 2000 Cherokee Sport that I need to get rid of ASAP. The body is done for for the most part but the engine, transmission, axles, lift, transfer case, etc are all in good shape. Motor has 119,000 miles on it and runs good. 2 in skyjacker lift. Interior is in great shape for the age also. Make me an offer but I need it gone ASAP. It's still at the tow shop and I'm getting charged daily. " If you recall, I have the project '87 Comanche that I need a complete drivetrain/interior/electronics for. Should I be trying pretty hard to get this at a deal, especially if the interior is nice? I dunno if I'll use the axles or tcase - but a full interior/wiring harness/modern dash, not to mention the 4.0 would be great if it is pretty much compatible without major modifications. I know you said the door cards won't work, but if that's the worst of it I'll figure that out later. I eagerly await your advice! I'm gonna go ahead and contact the guy, see if I can get a price out of him as a starting point.
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Aug 21, 2013 04:07
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Oh man. If you can get it for a decent price, then go for it. Even if it did cost a lot more than getting parts piecemeal at the junkyard (it won't), the fact that you have the entire parts list and more at your disposal is massively helpful. Aside from late-model doors to replace those mangled ones and perhaps a non-0331 head if that worries you, that XJ should cover it. Hell, I only did an engine/trans/cooling swap but I very much wish I'd just bought a late-model parts XJ (county sold several hail-damaged 4.0/AW4/NP231 '99s for less than $1200 each) and just moved forward from there. Might want to check out what they mean by "motor has 119,000 miles on it", though. And since you're not far from me and that XJ is identical to mine, so I'd happily rid you of whatever components you end up not wanting. Not that I need spares, god no, but hoarding. If it has the 8.25 (guaranteed unless it has ABS) and you don't swap it in place of the D35, count me in. And hell, what if I might need spare color-matched flares, rear bumper, and liftgate?
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Aug 21, 2013 12:57
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Um, also, if that has the grey interior + the passenger side airbag module intact, I want that/would be willing to pay for it. I want to replace my passenger side airbag with a housing to hold my radio/some other gear, but I'm hoping to do it with a spare rather than the stock piece so I can revert it if need be.
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Aug 21, 2013 19:45
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Yeah, had to get it. The front is more busted than the CL pictures show, though.  OneOverZero posted:Might want to check out what they mean by "motor has 119,000 miles on it", though. Krakkles posted:Um, also, if that has the grey interior + the passenger side airbag module intact, I want that/would be willing to pay for it.
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Aug 22, 2013 01:21
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edit: that's what I get for waiting two hours to hit Submit. Fantastic deal - I'm jealous. Looks like your interior door bits should be good too, should you decide to go that route! angryrobots, I just remembered that I have a pair of clean PW/PL '00/'01 Agate door panels in my garage. (And gray late-Renix Pioneer panels, and...) Chances are that '00 you posted has PW/PL - they made very few bare-bones Sports the last two years. Let me know if you get that and the panels are cracked from the roll. Krakkles posted:Um, also, if that has the grey interior + the passenger side airbag module intact, I want that/would be willing to pay for it.
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Aug 22, 2013 02:27
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Yeah it is power everything. On a quick glance, the door panels look good, but the driver's door is stuck shut. Right now I'd like to get the radiator shroud pulled out of there and see if I can get it to spin over. I'm pretty sure it's ok, but I'd like to know for sure. The liftgate is kinda bent on the passenger side, though- you can see in the first picture. The rear bumper looks ok, though. And it has a hitch which is useless to me. :P
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Aug 22, 2013 03:08
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OneOverZero posted:For a '99+? Those can be tricky to find since the Agate interiors were only three years, as far as I know. Too bad it's popped ... thanks for looking, though. Edit: Oh, and you guys also educated me as to the fact that my jeep doesn't have ABS. Thank you. (It's got the 8.25, and I was worried about how to keep ABS when we put in a 8.8, but ... not an issue. lol.) Krakkles fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Aug 22, 2013 |
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Aug 22, 2013 03:27
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angryrobots posted:Yeah it is power everything. On a quick glance, the door panels look good, but the driver's door is stuck shut. Right now I'd like to get the radiator shroud pulled out of there and see if I can get it to spin over. I'm pretty sure it's ok, but I'd like to know for sure. I could use the hitch for my '95, if it's a receiver type, but I don't think you're near Texas, and shipping could be ridiculous on something that big and heavy. I'd like to find something like that deal to upgrade my 2-wheel drive 4- banger to 4.0 4x4.
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Aug 22, 2013 04:41
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Darchangel posted:I could use the hitch for my '95, if it's a receiver type, but I don't think you're near Texas, and shipping could be ridiculous on something that big and heavy. Message one of the dudes from the Jeep Lemons team. They converted their Cherokee from 4x4 to 4x2 and sold the parts off to finance the build. I'm pretty sure their Comanche is still 4x4 right now.
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Aug 22, 2013 16:37
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A dry weekend that isn't devoted to deciphering '80s RX7 vacuum diagrams! After an afternoon with a pressure washer, some Marine Clean, and a quart of POR15 Chassis Coat:  Went overboard and did most of the leafpacks with what little was left over. Pushing it out of the garage, I noticed that the D35's pinion seal has spontaneously started leaking. It's the only thing I haven't pulled and rebuilt, so it figures. Also saw my neighbor's (nonfunctional?) Maserati Biturbos outside today.  
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Aug 26, 2013 05:35
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How is the boxed frame attached to the unibody? Do they separate?
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Aug 27, 2013 03:28
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They do on mine but they certainly aren't supposed to.
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Aug 27, 2013 03:34
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Ok, finally got the busted stuff pulled off the front. Radiator was done but oddly the condenser was just bent and the AC system still has pressure, so I left that hooked up (compressor is new). Crank and power steering pullies are busted. Sway bar is bent, looks like it did the job the bumper was supposed to do...that bumper is worthless thin crap. I connected the upper and lower radiator hoses together, and filled the block with coolant from the upper heater hose. Good news is that the engine cranks right up and sounds great. Bad news is that the transmission doesn't do anything. LOL, nevermind. Shifter cable had popped loose where it attaches to the trans, took about 30 seconds to fix. Runs and drives fine in the yard. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Sep 1, 2013 |
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Sep 1, 2013 13:16
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Fantastic! So at this rate, I imagine you'll just need a new radiator, trans cooler, etc...? Aside from the countless other bits necessary "while in there", of course. Some fine folks surprised me this evening and my buddy brought something I never expected:  Fixed windows! Not the best for a dark-colored truck reverted to non-AC, but my god, it might not leak anymore. Weird bit of wiring is an oil pressure sender harness for my '01 since I hulked the gently caress out on the connector after cracking the original sender with a slipped filter wrench. I'm also told that there's a LWB MJ in a new junkyard up the road, and it may have a D44. Going to grab that ASAP if so (I probably shouldn't announce that it exists until I grab it, but eh - nobody say anything).
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Sep 5, 2013 02:31
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Yeah need the 4.0 radiator and all. Considering going with the newer style front clip, but that's a long time down the road. My mj has the fixed quarter windows...they absolutely suck in the sc heat. If a new model door will fit, I'd go for that just for the one piece glass. It's like an oven in there, no airflow.
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Sep 5, 2013 04:43
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angryrobots posted:Yeah need the 4.0 radiator and all. Considering going with the newer style front clip, but that's a long time down the road. If the mj is like the xj, they'll fit you will have to change the striker on the body as it was changed in 97+ jeeps. http://comancheclub.com/topic/30671-97-swap-how-to/ Everything you've wondered about a 97+ swap. The doors are midway down the post. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Sep 5, 2013 |
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Sep 5, 2013 09:16
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Yeah, it'll fit. Doors are the same exact parts between a 4 door XJ and an MJ of the same year. A few minor things make a 97+ door swap annoying (wiring splicing, the armrest collides with the older style glovebox door when it opens, and the latch strike pin has to be moved and the old hole welded up, that's about it) but it's easily a weekend project.
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Sep 6, 2013 03:02
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MJ now has rear brakes! Got some help assembling new hardware/shoes/drums from a ~forums superstar~. What an odd setup on the Dana axles. Still no luck tracking down calipers. Calipers shown in 1990 microfiche are 05252985, 05252984 (oddly enough, appear to be shared with my Dart ): And boy howdy, does that ever look like the SE4892 from NAPA:  Not even close. See also: why I'm replacing the rotors and wheel bearings, and why I shouldn't apply grease in the dark. Based on a few trips back and forth, here's a group of NAPA calipers that don't appear to be correct, along with their respective applications (according to NAPA interchange, at least): SE4892, SE4893 ('90-'92 XJ/MJ, 2WD, pictured above) SE4890, SE4891 ('90-'92 XJ/MJ, 4WD) SE4732, SE4733 (pre-'90 XJ/MJ) What exactly do I have here? And what am I doing so horribly wrong? I wish these had the same unit bearing & hat rotor setup I'm familiar with from later XJs.
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Sep 18, 2013 01:44
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Try a pre-90 2wd. I think it should be the same as a 90-92.0 2wd but not sure. That pic looks like it, but I am not sure, can't see the dust cap over the outer spindle bearing fully. Worst case, transplant knuckles, bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, and stub shafts (important! This keeps the bearing together and the wheel on!) from a 4x4 92.5 and later and never deal with this goofy poo poo again. Should just bolt right to your stock balljoints, though I would put new ones in "while I was in there" if I ended up that deep in the steering.
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Sep 18, 2013 03:30
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If it would help, if be happy to get pictures (and p/n if I can find it) on my 2wd 87's calipers tomorrow.
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Sep 18, 2013 04:35
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Tried two more flavors of caliper tonight with no luck.angryrobots posted:If it would help, if be happy to get pictures (and p/n if I can find it) on my 2wd 87's calipers tomorrow. At any rate, it has new rotors, SKF bearings, and all the associated grease seals and nuts as of tonight. Probably should've waited until determining if I need a full swap, but eh, I've had the parts for months. When I pulled the driver's side grease cap, the bearing nut was backed off by about three threads with no lock condom or cotter pin. The ball joints are Once the new rollover valves come in, the fuel & evap systems will be finalized. MAP vacuum line has been relocated to an intake fitting nearest the throttle body (no fitting on the Chrysler-era TBs themselves), so hopefully it'll read a consistent pressure there. From there it's just a matter of mating the straight pipe (ugh) to the '94-style crossover with some flex pipe so I can drive it to a muffler shop after break-in. My goal from the first post: OneOverZero posted:I’m hoping to have it and the trans installed, broken in, and ready for the drive to Barber Vintage Festival in October. Here's a coworker's foxbody from our office car show a couple weeks ago. He's better at AN fittings than I am. 
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Sep 21, 2013 06:12
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KH AMC 103707    Let me know if that's what you need. Was getting dark, but that was the only number I saw on it.
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Sep 23, 2013 02:26
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Good and bad. First angryrobots, thanks so much for the photos. Looks like I'm in good shape with the SE4892/4893 NAPA sourced. My passenger-side caliper is identical to yours. Looking at my driver's side caliper, the ear machining is reversed - notice the orientation of the retention "notch" versus the hard stop in the photo below. At first I thought it may be case of leading versus trailing calipers for different applications, but eh, it must be correct. They certainly rattle around with the pistons retracted, yeesh. Oddly enough, I noticed that both calipers have that number cast in - I guess it's not the casting number since they're obviously mirrored.  Gonna finish throwing the clips and such on later this week.Downside is that I may or may not have electrical gremlins. Fuel pump happily whirrs to life at key-on and all accessory lighting checks out (apart from my nice OEM radio, which only illuminates now), but any attempt at cranking results in a split-second starter motor blip followed by complete electrical shutdown and the frantic clicking of at least two solenoids in the distrbution block. I'm hoping it's just the starter relay responding to a cheap-rear end four-year-old battery that probably has a dry cell. Will throw a new battery in it tomorrow and try again. Throttle body also seems to stick a little bit - the TPS gives the proper range when manually adjusted, but when snapped shut under its own tension sticks at ~1.4V rather than dropping to 0.85 or so at idle. Not sure if the lack of operating vibration is at fault, but I'll pull it and reassemble just in case. AN fuel hose is secured to the floorpan along the trans tunnel using insulated clamps and stainless hardware. It seems janky as hell, but I can't imagine it's any worse than the plastic clips retaining the OEM hardlines. It's certainly tucked up safely at any rate. Finalized brakes, minus anti-rattle clips:  Last shot of engine bay before properly securing hoses and wires (also, my missing Greenlees):  The last piece to my through-the-years XJ header panel garage mural  , which I'll get from my buddy this week:
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Oct 7, 2013 23:47
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OneOverZero posted:
I agree with probable crap battery, or bad starter hot lead connection. Definitely ain't gettin them amps.
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Oct 8, 2013 00:08
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What strikes me as odd is how the solenoids click like mad until I key off, even if the ignition is no longer turned to start. It's worrisome but I'm trying not be too concerned until it does the same thing with a fresh battery. That header panel is off the '86-'90 XJ Wagoneer, which also had some pretty nifty monochromatic taillamps. Here's one with ZJ Wagoneer wheels. Had I bought a banged-up MJ, I was going to get some good faux wood vinyl and turn it into one. 
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Oct 8, 2013 00:29
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Lovely, swapped in a new battery and everything works as expected. Minus the radio. Whatever. I just wanted to listen to my tapes. Sunday I'll fill the trans and tank and see if it'll crank to life.
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Oct 10, 2013 02:38
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Awesome. Amps makes everything better. I have learned from painful experience to troubleshoot the battery before I touch any issue that deals with the engine starting or management. I found a 1986 Comanche X with the GM v6 and command trac, 5-speed, abandoned in a field. I could probably get it for little to nothing, but research tells me there is literally nothing useful to me on it, at least not enough to trouble with dragging it home. Interior is rotten. Transmission is the Peugeot I believe? Shame, the body looks in good shape. The badging was kind of cool, I should have just stolen these: 
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Oct 11, 2013 01:09
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Get it, the engine bay is too short for an I6 but drat would it ever be sweet with, say, an LQ9 and a T56 in it. 
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Oct 11, 2013 01:49
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