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I like how casually you mention tearing the entire drive train from the TransAm. Interesting purchase on the truck. I'm sure you can get the sheet metal you need though, it'll be a fun project.
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Sep 17, 2021 15:53
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slidebite posted:That C10 could be niiiice. Plan right now is to match the new sheet metal to the blue, it is a factory colour so I can just get rattle cans for now. Once it is mechanically solid will have to think if I want to keep the blue or go with something else. Once I know the ride height isn't from any other suspension issues I am probably going to keep it stock. There are some non oem shocks on it right now but not gotten under to see the brand. StormDrain posted:I like how casually you mention tearing the entire drive train from the TransAm. At this point I have taken the thing apart so many times I can get the engine, trans and rear end out in about 3 hours by myself without a lift. When it goes back together this time it should be staying together until the new engine is ready and that is going to be a while even after the machine shop is done since the rings are being gapped for some boost. I have gone around a few times from a roots blower, to a centrifugal blower to turbos. All of them have pluses and minuses but I think I have found a way to make a roots blower not obscene money. Someone told me to just buy a 8/71 core and turn it into a tunnel ram but that is cheating.
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Sep 17, 2021 16:02
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Love the C10! I doubt you'll have any trouble finding sheet metal for it, but if you do run into issues, I'm about 95% sure I've got a set of factory front fenders that are correct for that truck out in the shed that I'm never going to use. You're welcome to them if it comes to that.
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Sep 17, 2021 19:50
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Thanks, might get in touch if I turn up empty. I there are new replacement ones available near me but it is always the question of getting a non oem one and making it fit vs a used factory one that is usually good. Planning to get the damaged sheet metal off tomorrow and go over everything in that corner to make sure there is no hidden damage. Only other thing in that corner is the steering box and pump. Someone in the lot got into it and left the accessories on so the battery is dead so thanks rando at the auction lot. It was charged Monday when I went by to check it out. Had it running and moved it back and forward a couple of feet when no one was looking.
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Sep 17, 2021 21:24
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I've only ever had to deal with a level 1 inspection before but my understanding is that most of what they're looking for is "is everything roughly in place that is needed for a street legal car" and "is the VIN on anything from a stolen car".
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Sep 18, 2021 01:24
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Level 1 is for cars that need bonded titles. Level 3 is that and a safety inspection similar to what is done in other states annually as well as making sure that the parts used didn’t come from stolen cars. Since I need to get people to sign stuff if I buy it used I am leaning towards banging as much as I can back into shape and replacing only the fender with a new one even if I have hack it to fit. Once it has a restored salvage title I can do whatever.
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Sep 18, 2021 13:56
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Spent this morning taking the bumper and fender off so I could get a good look at everything and assess what needs to be done. The drivers door still wasn’t closing so I was concerned the cab was also damaged but it seems the hit shifted it on the hinges so adjusted those and it is good now. The window mechanism and lock don’t work in it but I think that was the case before the accident. The front frame horns after the suspension was pulled out of place as that is where radiator support is bolted to it. Should be easy to pull it back with a frame puller. On the drivers side the power steering box is bolted to where the frame horn is bent which has broken the seal at the rag joint so it pisses fluid which is making the pump smoke due to having low fluid once it gets hot. Replace the box and might was well put the upgraded column to steering box connector that people use on 70s and 80s GMs. Going to replace the column with a tilt one as well since then non tilt column put the steering wheel basically in your lap. Probably can bash the front panels back and reuse the hood so just need the fender and a badge for it. The wheel that was on the corner that was hit has a new tire and is not bent so can keep using that. Took some time to ID the engine but it appears to be a Chevy Performance 350 with the later Vortec heads which usually come rated at around 350 bhp. Saw a couple of leaks from The trans and it burps coolant when it is turned off so going to bleed the cooling system. Brakes have good feel and work, there is a hissing noise when pressed so need to check the vacuum lines and if not that throw a new master on it. Which would be odd since it has a brand new one on it. Suspension wise it sits square now it has four tires that hold air but someone went a bit nuts with the alignment shims at some point so need to get that done from scratch. Interior fabrics are all new and the most important thing works… the stereo, speakers and behind seat subs. It is a Bluetooth head unit so can sync my phone to it and it sounds as good as a 40 year old truck with modern stereo equipment can. Exhaust is all brand new and has flow masters so makes some good noise. Lights are mostly working so need to chase down those issues. Windscreen wiper motor is original and thus dead but it is like 3 bolts to replace and I can get the washer fluid working for it as well. Blow motor runs but not well and all the factory AC is missing the lines. Rather than mess with that I probably will just go with an after market AC system as that will be infinitely better than factory that can be a pain to find the parts for. Not knowing what is included on the level 3 safety inspection I am concentrating on all the crap that was needed back in NH as a base line minus the blower motor. To get it back on the road I am going to concentrate on the following: Knock frame horns back into “spec” Replace power steering box Replace steering rag joint with solid one Windscreen wiper motor Windscreen washers Lights Tilt column Steering wheel Horn Front fender and other panels attached Front bumper Scrape crap off of windshield Replace dash with one that needle on the speedo and fuel gauge Decent list of stuff but mostly bolting and unbolting things. For the dash I might just get a Dakota Digital one so I get a tach and more useful stuff than just idiot lights. Bit pricy but since I am going to have the column out anyway seems like a good time to do it. Between all of that I have the Grand Prix that needs its read end, fuel tank, brakes, front suspension, engine and trans all needing to go back in, plumbed up and electromagicals all sorted out when that will be good to go as well.
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Sep 18, 2021 19:55
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I was going to say, banging the fender back into place should be good enough as long as it has lights in the right spots. I think some years of squarebody can use an XJ intermediate steering shaft as a bolt-in upgrade that converts you to all U-joints and is much, much cheaper than the aftermarket U-joints I have in my C10. Either way it's money extremely well spent.
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Sep 18, 2021 20:09
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The XJ joint is used on a lot of GM stuff, I used on an 85 El Camino I used to have. Going to throw one on this since I am going to have it all apart anyway. Might do a shorter ratio steering box as well. I just wish there was a list of poo poo for the inspection rather than “everything needed for highway use” because that is only slightly vague and since I how to trailer it to be tested as you cannot insure anything that has a salvage title I don’t want to be going back and forth.
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Sep 18, 2021 20:21
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Yeah. It's amazing how the MVD publishes jack loving poo poo on any of this stuff.
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Sep 18, 2021 20:30
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I did poke around and was able to find a list of what is needed on an ATV for it to be road legal and it is: Headlights Taillights License Plate Light Horn Seat Belts Once I have the damage to the steering and sheet metal sorted then it should be good to go. Have a tilt column to go in, upgrades XJ Jeep steering link and splurged on a digital dash since the one in it had broken needles and only had idiot lights, I did pick up a more full featured one that came with the fenders, steering box and tilt column I bought but that was broken as well. As long as everything is here by next weekend then plan is to have it back together and go through all the inspection stuff and book that so I can register and insure it. Oh and all the plumbing for the heating/ac is not there. It has a brand new dash pad, stereo and interior fabrics but I guess heat/cool was optional. Makes the choice of keeping the OEM stuff of throwing a vintage air kit in easier.
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Oct 2, 2021 22:09
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Heat was always on them, AC was optional. Sounds like the PO said gently caress it and left the heater core out if the hose nipples aren't poking through the firewall. I don't know about there, but in TX, when you make a salvage road-legal, they want receipts of everything replaced, including the VIN of the donor vehicle. That truck looks niiiiiiiiice though, definitely was someone's baby.
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Oct 2, 2021 23:43
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Arizona is the same and I have the VIN and all the details for the truck I got the parts off. Spoke to some guys who work on salvage vehicles in the area and they say it really depends who does the inspection. Some don’t care and just check the lights and horn.
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Oct 2, 2021 23:57
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Wipers and washer jets repaired with a new motor and lubricating the mechanism which it seemed had not moved a full rotation in decades.
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Oct 3, 2021 18:37
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 New wiper motor, power steering box, XJ Jeep steering link all installed. Now have power steering but need to tighten up the pitman arm a bit as it is a sod to try and get on as it was spinning the ball joint in the arm so might get a new one of those.  Have to go with the classic. Still a little tight in there but really don’t want to have to install a tilt column. There I a sub box behind the seat that is taking up 2 inches of belly room so that will be coming out and up on market place for the yoof to play their tunes.
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Oct 9, 2021 17:19
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Turn signal switch broke so I guess I am going to be taking the column out since trying to get the switch wiring in the column with it in will just gently caress my back up. If it has to come out the tilt one will go in. Just have to swap the stuff over and remove the column wiper and light controls. Once I got the power steering box all hooked up and working I noticed that the pump was leaking from the pulley and rather gab gently caress around with it just ordered a $30 one from rock auto and will swap it out.
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Oct 11, 2021 00:34
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what did you do to adapt the xj intermediate shaft to the stock column? iirc the stock column is splined and the xj shaft is double-d seems like the solutions are either "super expensive chunk of milled steel" or "chop at your original column with an angle grinder" and i dont like either option
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Oct 12, 2021 07:45
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I didn’t have to adapt a thing it just bolts on. The steering column is double D and the splined end goes onto the steering box. Only thing people have to do depending on who made it is remove the length restrictive from where it collapses as some of the after market ones are too short. I believe that some of the early square body Chevy trucks used the same style as the pre 73 trucks so this wouldn’t work for those.
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Oct 12, 2021 13:02
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Raluek posted:what did you do to adapt the xj intermediate shaft to the stock column? iirc the stock column is splined and the xj shaft is double-d As a person who just did angle grinder machining, it's not that bad to make your own DD profile. A small brass caliper was enough to lay it out and just removing a little at a time got me there. Also Borgesons connectors are more expensive than I expected but not unreasonable now that I have seen two of them.
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Oct 12, 2021 15:21
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BigPaddy posted:I didn’t have to adapt a thing it just bolts on. The steering column is double D and the splined end goes onto the steering box. Only thing people have to do depending on who made it is remove the length restrictive from where it collapses as some of the after market ones are too short. oh, nice. my chevy is splined, kinda surprised that the poncho is different. unless the fullsize and midsize have different column internals for some reason. StormDrain posted:As a person who just did angle grinder machining, it's not that bad to make your own DD profile. A small brass caliper was enough to lay it out and just removing a little at a time got me there. yeah i think i could make it look ok, but i dont like the idea of non-reversible modifications like that. maybe i should just get over myself i guess thats probably amusing to you, since you chopped your whole poo poo in half, but im squeamish about that kind of commitment lol
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Oct 13, 2021 10:39
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Raluek posted:oh, nice. my chevy is splined, kinda surprised that the poncho is different. unless the fullsize and midsize have different column internals for some reason. Yep you're right! I do understand, it took a long time before I was comfortable with cutting metal despite having the ability to turn two pieces of metal into one. I think I was pretty honest about even my hesitation to cut my steering column. And I regret cutting it too! At least it's back together and the steering shaft is A-OK .
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Oct 13, 2021 15:59
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Just to be clear the steering column is for the 1980 C10, I haven’t checked the shaft on the Pontiac but due to its age I expect it is from double spline so the XJ shaft won’t work. That said I could probably get a keyless, shiftless aftermarket GM column and mount it so I can use the same shaft as the only thing in the column on the Pontiac is tilt and turn signals.
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Oct 13, 2021 16:48
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BigPaddy posted:Just to be clear the steering column is for the 1980 C10, I haven’t checked the shaft on the Pontiac but due to its age I expect it is from double spline so the XJ shaft won’t work. That said I could probably get a keyless, shiftless aftermarket GM column and mount it so I can use the same shaft as the only thing in the column on the Pontiac is tilt and turn signals. oh, I forgot you had that one. that would explain it. the later ones are double-d for sure, but i didnt think any of the 60s stuff was anything but splined. yeah the columns are lego enough that if you find one of the right-ish length in the junkyard or in a catalog, it'll work. i do want to keep an eye out for one without column shift, since ill be deleting that anyway, but for now my old junk will work fine
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Oct 14, 2021 05:27
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You can grab after market columns without shift pretty cheap. I started working on the tilt column I bought cheap and found that pretty much nothing will swap over which was the plan due to things like the shifter being all busted up. So I just bought a new keyed shifter one from Jegs for $400. Will need some work to get the mounting bracket on since it is a universal fit. Ht it has all the GM switches and wiring so “should” plug right in. Finished wiring in the digital dash over the weekend but took the column out before taking pictures. Everything was functioning apart from the fuel gauge but I have no idea how much is in there, which tank is currently plumbed as it is a two tank model and if the senders even work. Might drop them both out and go for an under bed pump in tank one since the current fuel pump is setup as a David Frieburger special where it is pulling fuel and not pushing.
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Oct 19, 2021 15:51
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Bought a new aftermarket GM column form Jegs, one of their own brand ones. If you are thinking of doing this then keep in mind that you will want to move your old ignition and safety switch on to it and whatever garbage they provide doesn’t work at all. The ignition switch is so loose that it won’t stay in a position and the neutral safety/reverse light switch will work with a multimeter checking it but won’t flow enough volts for anything to work. Now I swapped all that over I can bolt everything back in and have a shorter and tilt column for extra belly room. Then onto getting the new fender on and trying to make the gaps line up and the door close properly 
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Oct 27, 2021 03:56
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Not sure about that era of column but the later Saginaw columns, the ignition switch is different between tilt and non tilt. It's flipped 180 on the bracket and won't work at all with the wrong one
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Oct 27, 2021 05:47
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The switch that came with it would move the right way and turn things on but just wouldn’t stay in a position. The original switch from a non tilt column was much tighter and worked without an issue. Both look and move the same just the new one that came with it was impossible to adjust. Having a similar issue with the neutral safety switch where the one that came on it is for an earlier GM application so I had to swap to the original later one to get the starter to go.
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Oct 27, 2021 13:08
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Digital dash, new column and wheel all in and wired up.
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Oct 28, 2021 00:21
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not personally a huge fan of the blue LEDs, but im glad it's one step closer to being drivable! other than the electricals, how much hassle was the column install? also, does it feel tight and solid? ive read that the aftermarket columns are sometimes inferior to a good rebuilt original. i saw a mid-60s GP today, probably a couple years newer than yours, but it looked great and made me think of your thread and wonder how your car was doing and have a sad moment when i thought about your original car that died
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Oct 28, 2021 03:32
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Column install wasn’t bad, I had to get an aftermarket mount for the under dash bolts as they don’t come with the nutcerts for the original one. I had to replace the ignition switch on it for the one on the old column and take the neutral safety switch apart and massage that into working correctly. It was $400 so 1/3 the price of a similar one from Flaming River. The LED dash came in a bunch of colour options but blue truck so blue LEDs. I don’t think the fuel sender is working but then it has two tanks and one of them is not connected so that is going to be fun to figure out. Probably going to replace both with a single under bed fuel cell at some point to clear up all the lines and wiring. The GP is waiting for the truck to be done then a bunch of rolling around the floor putting heavy and awkward parts on it. There isn’t that much to do it is just all the heavy annoying stuff that is a pain by yourself. The 400 is at the machine shop being worked on and I have a 350 for it until that is done which likely will be next year some time with current parts leadtimes. BigPaddy fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 13:33
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 Pulled the core support back into position that can be described as “good enough” and bolted the fender on. Once it is registrable and all that I expect I will drop it into a body shop to align the door and panels as well as pull the front frame horns back into spec enough for a bumper to bolt on. The cable for the hood release is not there and the rest of the mechanism is missing so just going to use hood pins. Need to get a grill as the one on it just fell apart as soon as I tried to remove it. Might just go Mad Max/Roadkill and paint some mesh since the grills are stupid money.
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Oct 30, 2021 18:36
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Someone local had a core support I got cheap so now I might swap that out tomorrow to make the lights straight. Might was well since I don’t have anything else going on.
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Oct 31, 2021 01:54
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 Just like factree Inspection Wednesday so we can see how it would have been better to just buy a non smashed one and put a new interior in it.
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Nov 13, 2021 19:23
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New water temp gauge from the digital kit was reading 260 yet it didn’t smell of ready to meltdown. Used an IR thermometer and nope it was fine at 190 so now to call the company and ask if they maybe sent me the wrong sender for a C10. Everything else is good to go for Wednesday as long as it gets there
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Nov 14, 2021 20:12
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Got there and passed so now can register it and drive it on the road. Probably going to drop it in to a body shop to get the door and fender aligned since trying to do it by myself is a pain. Can then get the bumper back on the front. It ran pretty well for the 10 miles to the inspection and 20 miles back just needs some knocks and rattles dealt with along with cleaning the interior up. Fuel gauge even works
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Nov 17, 2021 20:48
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Body shop work on hold after I went to get it aligned and it needs everything on the front since it is all the original rubber parts. It was wandering when driving so I knew it was loose but hey got it confirmed. At some point I was planning on getting tubular front control arms and this just moved the timeline forward. If you want to keep the original spring and shock style then QA1, Ridetech et al do not work as all there stuff requires a coil over conversion with cutting the spring mount so it is not really reversible. Picked up a kit with OEM style spring and shock from a company in Cali for about $1k shipped and all the other parts off rock auto for about $50. That includes the pitman and idler arms. That is due to get here by next weekend and that will be the job then. Probably change the oil while I am down there as well. The rear leaf spring bushes needed to be replaced as well but since the springs are likely also original they need to be replaced as well. The interior is mostly back together but needs to come back out to fix the holes that were cut in the new dash pad that were too close to the edge and the screw just blew the steel edge liner out so it doesn’t hold it down. The original stem style stereo was replaced with a cheap pioneer single din unit and wasn’t secured correctly. Used a kit to add a single din mounting into the dash and it is not flopping around. The blower motor is not running as the power feed was used to run the electric fuel pump that is in the wrong place. Going to rerun that using a relay for the fuel pump and putting power back to the blower motor. It does not leak water which is great and if it does work then I can fry some AC lines and recharge the system and see if it blows hot and cold. After that then probably to the body shop to replace the body mounts, align the bed and the body, align the new fender with the door and talk about paint. It has a bunch of dents and deep scratches so probably need it all cleaned up and a new coat of the same color. Pontiac Update: Need to bolt everything back in and it will go
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Nov 28, 2021 17:06
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OK so since this is an ongoing saga and I don't want to poo poo up the other thread it is time for find out what the professional hosed up!!!  To recap: C10 went to transmission shop for them to check a noise from the transmission and adjust the kick down like they said they would after I did the Vortec swap. Noise was the starter motor needing to be moved away from the flywheel. This is not a normal shim but a spacer that goes into the block mount that is provided. They didn't want to do that and since I was still planning to go to Power Tour I just wanted it to work so they swapped in a new AC Delco one that they had to adjust exactly the same way but fine ok whatever I needed another starter for a different project. Next they noticed the water pump was leaking and again I was going on Power Tour so fine swap that but make sure you get one for a Vortec not an earlier SBC as the Vortec has a different coolant bypass. By this time what was supposed to be a day in the shop for some adjustments is now 3 days in the shop and I am running out of time to get it aligned and finish the AC lines. Call me Thursday morning and "the neutral safety switch just fell apart". In retrospect this I should have just had to towed back them as clearly someone was loving around and didn't know what they were doing with an old GM product. They order a new switch... but not the one I told them two since it has an aftermarket column in it that is shorter than OEM as I am a Goon and need belly space. I send them the part number for the correct one which is for a 60-72 GM Truck and Midsize Car and it goes in fine. Right about then I get a call that the EFI system dumped gas into the throttle body but it was ok because they pulled all the spark plugs to stop it hydrolocking but hey maybe we should just tow this back to you. Go down there to pay them for the parts and time... not happy that they had hosed up my timeline and now my plans to go on my trip and now it is also "hey some of these spark plugs have cracked insulators!!!". Well they didn't before you removed them because you hosed something up with the wiring pissing about with stuff unrelated to what you were asked to do. Get the thing towed back to mine and check to make sure everything was plugged in and a bunch of stuff was unplugged with the EFI so I plug it all back in and it boots up fine. Can't start it as there are no spark plugs so waits for this morning. Put in new plugs since magically the others are damaged now and go to start it and no spark... weird. Check the Distributor and it is plugged in... one side of the cap. So I plug the other side in and now start to get the same symptoms they were seeing with the ECU not booting correctly. Unplug the distributor and the ECU starts fine. What is happening here is during all their wiggling and messing about the wire that feeds the distributor with the ignition on that also triggers the relay for the ECU was now damaged so not enough voltage was making it to the ECU when the distributor is plugged in. Since that wiring is janky anyway I am going to put a fuse block under the hood and run that off the fuse panel where I am pulling ignition 12v for the alternator exciter wire and then use the coil wire only for the distributor. It should have been that way to begin with but there we go. Hopefully can get it running tomorrow so I can do the AC lines and now I have a week off and nothing planned can get it aligned and AC charged then take it for a good run somewhere.
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Jun 11, 2022 17:07
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Saw this first BigPaddy posted:OK so since this is an ongoing saga and I don't want to poo poo up the other thread it is time for find out what the professional hosed up!!! And then just a wall of text and thought “oh noooooo” and, yeah, that just sucks.
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Jun 11, 2022 18:16
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God drat, I can gently caress poo poo up all by myself, I don't want to have to pay someone to do that.
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Jun 11, 2022 18:27
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EVERYWHERE 
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Main problem with the heat wave in the SW is that it is 90 degrees when the sun comes up and 100 before 10am. Pulled my swamp cooler out because this is why I bought it but the water pump on it is dead so yay? Either take it apart and replace the pump or buy another one from a different manufacturer because clearly Portacool made in the USA raar raar means gently caress all so the cheapest Chinese made knock off if it won’t even last a year.
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Jun 11, 2022 18:42
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