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Mulloy posted:Went down to the old best buy and listened to the fs52s and was more than pleased so I placed an order for basically the 3.1 set from the post a few replies up. A shelf is fine. There's even ones you can get that screw into the VESA mounts on your TV.
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May 14, 2013 03:21
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Endless Mike posted:A shelf is fine. There's even ones you can get that screw into the VESA mounts on your TV. Oh, I did not know that. I will have to look into these. Thanks! Edit: :tenbux: on monoprice hooray. Mulloy fucked around with this message at 06:03 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 03:44
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Do you have a link for this shelf thing? Couldn't find it.
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May 14, 2013 17:06
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fozzy fosbourne posted:Do you have a link for this shelf thing? Couldn't find it. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082809&p_id=8101&seq=1&format=2
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May 14, 2013 17:16
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skipdogg posted:http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082809&p_id=8101&seq=1&format=2 That's the one. The c22 is sixteen pounds so it should work out great. Edit: It does not come with VESA screws to attach to the TV itself. Mulloy fucked around with this message at 17:57 on May 17, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 19:09
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I have an Onkyo TX-NR414 receiver (http://www.eu.onkyo.com/en/products/tx-nr414-75913.html) that has worked fine, up until last night. I had my iPhone plugged into it via USB listening to music, unplugged it to go outside for no more than 10 minutes, and now it does not work when plugged into the front USB port. When I plug my phone into the USB port on the front of the receiver, the receiver doesn't recognize that anything is plugged into it, and does not charge my phone like it normally does. I have power cycled my phone and receiver, tried a different USB cable, and made sure my phone still works when plugged in other places. Any suggestions? I have been looking online for awhile, but cannot find any type of resolution or information. If it helps, when I click "USB" on the front of the receiver, USB will show on the display for about 5-10 seconds before disappearing. After it disappears, the word "USB" appears on the bottom left with an up arrow next to it, and "Digital" appears underneath it with a down arrow next do it. I have tried hitting every up and down button that I can find, but nothing happens. Edit: Nevermind, factory reset fixed the issue. sonikburn fucked around with this message at 23:01 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 22:42
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sonikburn posted:Edit: Nevermind, factory reset fixed the issue. Before the factory reset, did you try unplugging the power? (not just power cycling via button) I have occasional problems with my 414 that unplugging it fixes (the network stops working, auto sleep stops working). It's really loving annoying.
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May 15, 2013 22:11
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Since the Monoprice speaker set in the OP probably won't be coming back any time soon, I take it the Energy Take Classic 5.1 it's a rip-off of would be a good deal at $280? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882269024 I have a small apartment so I don't need anything too grand.
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May 15, 2013 23:31
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Is the Onkyo 709 still considered to be one of the best values? I'm sold on the features and everything, but it seems to have a lot of negative reviews at Amazon because of HDMI boards dying within a few months. Anyone know about this problem? I'm curious if it's an extremely common issue or just overblown.
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May 16, 2013 00:31
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I just picked up a pair of Infinity Reference Studio Monitors on Craigslist for $60. The drivers are all solid, but I'm replacing the pots, the crossovers, and the dustcaps on the subs (they were a little bent, and I can't stand that). I've got a much smaller pair of two-way American Acoustics speakers that need to be refoamed, which leads me to my first question: can I use those as the rear speakers in a 5.2 setup? I've always had active speakers and never needed a receiver until now, so I picked up this Sony, since I had enough Walmart giftcards to cover it. My big question is, have I hosed up or will this be alright? What I've read leads me to believe I know what I'm doing, but then again, I've felt that way before and hosed up big time. edit: I should clarify, I poured over the OP but then these opportunities for cheap, quality vintage speakers came up, and I splurged. The receiver hasn't been unboxed and can go back, it was an impulse buy. If it's absolutely the wrong thing, I don't have a problem getting the right thing. I also plan to add two subwoofers at some point, so I think that justifies the .2. InstantInfidel fucked around with this message at 03:07 on May 16, 2013 |
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May 16, 2013 03:05
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InstantInfidel posted:My big question is, have I hosed up or will this be alright? The speakers are nice, if a bit large. As for the receiver, does it have enough connections for all your stuff? It's a huge pain to try and add HDMI ports via switches later on and a definite dealbreaker if you need more. Other than that it doesn't have automatic calibration (which is nice but not essential) and it's got the clip-on wire holders (which are annoying but not critical). I personally also think Sony receivers have a really dry sound that isn't annoying but isn't very pleasant either. It didn't bother me until I heard the alternatives. What's your main use for your setup? Movies? Because if you went and got a vintage Marantz with those speakers you'd have a really kickass vintage stereo system.
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May 16, 2013 03:45
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The main (and by far most important use) will be bass-heavy music. Also, despite having an identical model number, that's actually not the receiver purchased- this is. Identical model numbers, different rear connectors. Weird. Anyway, I'm pretty dead set on having a hi-def audio-video receiver, or I'd have gone vintage with that, too. My dad has a well-used but well-kept NAD from the 80's that he doesn't want, so I might end up using the smaller American Acoustics speakers with that instead and going with 2.1 or 2.2 for the larger system. edit: also, the ports should work out exactly- HTPC, Xbox, PS3, and satellite box. If I'm missing something popular, please point it out! edit2: One of my other concerns that I'd kind of backburnered is that every review, testimonial, and restoration piece I've read about these speakers suggests that they will suck as much power as I can feed them, and that ~200W gives them plenty of headroom to stretch their legs. Are there any recommendations for receivers that give a *lot* more RMS power than what I was looking at? InstantInfidel fucked around with this message at 06:26 on May 16, 2013 |
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May 16, 2013 03:58
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Skeleton Ape posted:Is the Onkyo 709 still considered to be one of the best values? I'm sold on the features and everything, but it seems to have a lot of negative reviews at Amazon because of HDMI boards dying within a few months. Anyone know about this problem? I'm curious if it's an extremely common issue or just overblown. The 709 is a great. The bad HDMI boards are not common, but there is confirmation bias at work. There have been reports of the Onkyo TX NR818 on sale through amazon for the 5-$600 range lately. That's a lot of receiver for under $600. If you can get the 709 for cheap, jump on it. FYI the Audyssey MultEQ XT that the 709 uses is very similar to the version IMAX uses for its daily sound auto calibrations in theaters.
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May 16, 2013 07:13
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InstantInfidel posted:The main (and by far most important use) will be bass-heavy music. Also, despite having an identical model number, that's actually not the receiver purchased- this is. Identical model numbers, different rear connectors. Weird. Anyway, I'm pretty dead set on having a hi-def audio-video receiver, or I'd have gone vintage with that, too. My dad has a well-used but well-kept NAD from the 80's that he doesn't want, so I might end up using the smaller American Acoustics speakers with that instead and going with 2.1 or 2.2 for the larger system. Take the 145 watts advertised with a grain of salt. It may offer 145 watts peak for a very short burst with 1 or 2 channels driven, but not a sustained 145 with multiple channels. Its a 21 pound receiver, which more often then not means its not using very large or capable amplifiers. With that said, those big speakers are probably pretty efficient. Probably 88 to 90db sensitivity. So that receiver is capable enough to get them to go loud. Headroom. I'm getting sick of that term, because such an importance is placed on it and people seem to overcomplicate it. Here is an analogy: you drive a Honda civic. It makes 120 horsepower max, and it puts out about 35 horsepower to cruise at highway speed (60mph). If you wanted to, you could floor it and max out at 110mph, but the engine will get hot and eventually it begins to run rough. The side effect to cruising at 110mph and using the full 120 horsepower us overheating and knocking and pinging motor. So, the 60mph cruising speed with the 110mph capability is the headroom. The 120 peak horsepower is like the receivers 145watts advertised. The engine knocking and overheating is like the distortion. Getting a better amp would be like buying a new mustang GT with 440 peak horsepower. You still do 60mph on the highway, still use 35horsepower to cruise, but when you get on the gas and run at 110mph, the car isn't complaining because the engine can max out at 170mph on a hot day. You now have much much more headroom. Why is this important ? Well it is and it isn't. Movie soundtracks and well recorded music will usually have an average volume, and a peak volume which would be some 20db louder than the average. The average volume requires sustained wattage to play. The peaks require somewhere around 100 times the wattage. Lets say you listen to a blues album. You play the song at a level where the voice track is 85db. The cymbal crash from tge drums peaks at 105db. Lets say It takes 1 watt to play the voice at 85 dB, it would take 100 watts to play that cymbal crash. The 100 watt peak amp will be distorting and tapping its power reserves dry to play that cymbal crash peak. Its out of headroom. A 200 watt peak amp will play the same track at the same level, but during the cymbal crash, its only using 100 watts of its 200 watt peak output. Because its not straining the amp, there is no detectable distortion. You have headroom to spare. When is headroom not important ? Same exact scenario as above, now use a 300 watt peak amp. You have even more headroom, but you aren't using it. It won't sound any better than the 200 watt. Flat response and low distortion at the volume you intend to play at is the only job an amp needs to do. Like a formula 1 car in stop and go traffic. Lots of headroom, not going to make a difference. Real world advice: if you want expandable options, go with a receiver that has pretty outs, that way you can use the receivers processing, and use a bigger sperate amp if you ever decide you want more power. Receivers don't get much passed 100 watts sustained power, regardless of price. If you want to drive those speakers to their max rated volume and power handling, you would be best in looking into professional PA style amps to hook the receivers preouts to. Pro amps will run you 2-300$ and can get you between 200 to 800 watts sustained. Onkyo 709, 818, some pioneers and demon and marantz units all have this capability. I would choose an amp with preouts or go for a second hand unit with that capability.
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May 16, 2013 07:59
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Awesome, thanks for your advice! I'll take a look at those.
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May 16, 2013 14:44
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jonathan posted:The 709 is a great. The bad HDMI boards are not common, but there is confirmation bias at work. There have been reports of the Onkyo TX NR818 on sale through amazon for the 5-$600 range lately. That's a lot of receiver for under $600. Cool, that's kinda what I thought. I'll keep an eye on the 818's price for a while, but I'll probably end up going with the 709 if it doesn't drop soon. Thanks!
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May 16, 2013 15:46
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the nicker posted:Before the factory reset, did you try unplugging the power? (not just power cycling via button) Nope I didn't try that, just went straight to a factory reset after the power cycle didn't work. I will definitely keep that mind though if and when it bugs out again. Thanks for the tip, wouldn't have ever tried that otherwise.
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May 16, 2013 16:07
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http://www.avsforum.com/t/1472808/onkyo-2013-mid-range-nr-828-is-here If you're on the fence about getting an onkyo 818, and thinking about getting the new version, get the 818. [quote name="wmy5" url="/t/1472808/onkyo-2013-mid-range-nr-828-is-here#post_23317925"]Officially announced on Hong Kong website: http://www.hk.onkyo.com/en/explore/news-info?spell=TX-NR828launching English Manual download: http://www.hk.onkyo.com/support/download?type=UserManual&id=387d34ae-d0f2-4249-9623-3c84af997986&file=SN29401442EN_TX-NR828_En_web.pdf NR-828 is a HUGE step backward from its predecessor, NR-818: What you get: Built-in WiFi and Bluetooth 4K pass-through What you lose: 135 watt -> [COLOR=red]130 watt[/COLOR] Audyssey MultEQ XT32 -> [COLOR=red]Audyssey MultEQ[/COLOR] 9.2 channels pre-out -> [COLOR=red]7.2 channels pre-out[/COLOR] [COLOR=red]NO[/COLOR] Differential DAC Mode for Front Channels [COLOR=red]NO[/COLOR] Isolated Power-Amp and Pre-Amp Block 18.3kg -> [COLOR=red]15.0kg[/COLOR] SNR (Line IHF-A): 110dB -> [COLOR=red]106dB[/COLOR][/quote] jonathan fucked around with this message at 03:43 on May 17, 2013 |
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May 17, 2013 03:40
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jonathan posted:NR-828 is a HUGE step backward from its predecessor, NR-818: That's rather odd. Luckily, I don't have enough money, space, or the hearing to justify a pre-out amp system, so the 616 that you guys recommended will be perfect for me, probably until it dies, or I die. Why in the world would Onkyo reduce the feature-set of a higher end unit like that? 
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May 17, 2013 04:34
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The Locator posted:That's rather odd. Not exactly sure, but the 709 to 717 was the same. Went from Audyssey XT down to 2eq. IE no EQ for bass. I saw a comment that they are scared its hurting sales from the "Integra" brand, which is the rebadged boutique brand by Onkyo. So they handicap all but the flagship models and then sell the integra stuff with all the good features.
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May 17, 2013 18:08
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I saw a used 818 for a pretty good price so I bit the bullet. Kind of excited. There used to be a thread about DIY speaker building that inspired me to make a pair of these and this sub a couple years ago. I was blown away by how great the combo sounded for its size, and it was really fun and satisfying knowing I built them myself for a fraction of the cost of a similar retail setup. We're now moving into a larger house of our own, and I'm interested in a bigger pair of floorstanding speakers and a proper center channel. I'll probably demote the Microbes to rear surrounds. Does anyone know of any good DIY resources or specific designs that work well together? Looking at that same guy's site, I'm kind of intrigued by these for the fronts and this one for a center. I know jonathan mentioned in his subwoofer thread that DIY is definitely the way to go for subs. Does the same idea hold for speakers in general? Or is it not really worth it at a certain point? I'm looking to stay under a grand.
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May 17, 2013 22:27
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Skeleton Ape posted:I saw a used 818 for a pretty good price so I bit the bullet. Kind of excited. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ Eric's efforts have made DIY speaker building easier than ever. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/waveguide-speaker-kits.html The Waveguide speaker kits rival the best speakers in the world for home use. In the speaker demo get togethers, people always rate them up with the big Seaton and JTR speakers. With these speakers, you trade sensitivity for bass extension, so if you're using a subwoofer, go with the high sensitivity speakers and use the sub for everything below 80hz. If you aren't using a sub, they have models that extend down low for music listening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEK5T7C1UyI shows the clarity and off angle performance. Thats actual recorded sound from a single speaker, not a dubbed track. I believe that was with only 30 watts or so. A Video showing show easy it is to assemble these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgvjHB_7FV4 jonathan fucked around with this message at 23:27 on May 17, 2013 |
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May 17, 2013 23:22
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Those look pretty great. I have plans for a larger sub in the future but I'm holding off for now. My current one sounds remarkably good for what it is (6-inch Tang Band W6-1139SI in a 1 ft3 box), but I'm pretty sure any one of those kits would render it moot.
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May 18, 2013 00:30
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Didn't see this in the OP anywhere...I'm going to pick up some monoprice 3 ways and wanted an OK cheap 2.0 (or 2.1, w/e) receiver to put into my barn for my Rocky style workouts. Any receiver suggestions? I actually have some halfway decent equipment scattered across a couple states (my life is weird) but I already have cables run for these and I want equipment where I don't care if it melts in a month. Gumbel2Gumbel fucked around with this message at 02:33 on May 18, 2013 |
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May 18, 2013 02:31
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This is my receiver: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HW-C560S-Home-Theater-System/dp/B0037QF7L6 I bought the pioneer andrew jones speakers recommended in this thread. They sound great. Do I need a new receiver to get the full benefit, particularly if I plan on upgrading the subwoofer at some point? Edit: FYI there is an instant $70 credit at NewEgg if you buy the Klipsch RW-12D. I got it for $300 shipped. beergod fucked around with this message at 08:31 on May 18, 2013 |
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May 18, 2013 06:20
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jonathan posted:http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ What are the general differences between the various models? If I were to build a pair for a 2.0 system which would you recommend? I'd prefer to have a 10" or 8" woofer. I will likely add a subwoofer a few years down the road when in a single-family house.
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May 18, 2013 18:35
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me your dad posted:What are the general differences between the various models? If I were to build a pair for a 2.0 system which would you recommend? I'd prefer to have a 10" or 8" woofer. I will likely add a subwoofer a few years down the road when in a single-family house. First consideration is cabinet size and looks. The bigger the better for performance. Second consideration is price. Thirdly is the frequency range. If you don't have a sub, I would go for the model with the largest woofer you can afford and fit. The models are divided into their own mini groups on the page. The top set are using cheaper drivers. The bottom are the more expensive drivers. All of them will perform very well. The horn size and shape are what makes these speakers special. They work and sound very well from extreme angles.
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May 18, 2013 22:03
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Oops forgot to post the models. I would go with the Fusion 10 Pure, or the Fusion 10 Max, or the Alpha 8 Minion. The extra money for the fusion 10 Max seems worth it in case you ever step up to a larger amp. If you only want to use a receiver, the Fusion 10 Pure is a bit cheaper, but is more suited to the max wattage that a receiver can throw at it. Not a pro audio PA amp. The Alpha 8 Minion is also a contender. Its less efficient but maybe uses better components ? I'm not sure on this one. Perhaps ask on the forums there. It might be that its less efficient but handles more watts so the total output may be louder. Edit: in real world in room response, any one of these speakers should be capable of playing way way over reference volume. Temporary hearing loss begins at 85db. Loud music in a room is around 100db. All of these are capable of close to or more than 115db from a single speaker. Add up to 6db for each additional. That's live Motorhead levels. So with that, I would go for the fusion 10 pure. And then add a subwoofer once you feel you need some help in the low end. You will need a serious subwoofer to match these speakers. The sealed 15 and 18" flat packs they offer from the same site should be up to the task. jonathan fucked around with this message at 22:59 on May 18, 2013 |
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May 18, 2013 22:28
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Thanks! That's great info. I didn't realize they have forums there so I'll dig around a bit. I also need to convince my wife that I need a $500 budget for speakers  I've had my current speakers for about twelve years so it's about time for an upgrade.
me your dad fucked around with this message at 02:16 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 01:31
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So after weighing options and reading around and based on my living room being fairly small I went ahead and picked up the ps52/nr616 setup listed earlier. It's really awesome, but I feel like the surround are over powering the fronts, but I'm guessing this is because I have about two feet on the left and right of my couch before I hit a wall on one side and a doorway on the other. Should I look at reducing the volume on the surround or raising the fronts or is this just the way it is with a small space? The room is basically 15x10.
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May 19, 2013 02:15
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Mulloy posted:So after weighing options and reading around and based on my living room being fairly small I went ahead and picked up the ps52/nr616 setup listed earlier. How high are the surrounds? If they're at ear level, maybe try raising them up a couple of feet.
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May 19, 2013 02:51
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They are at about rat level but with the furniture I have my options are presently limited. Interestingly once I got my ps3 passing 5.1 it became less of an issue so I think it may have just been splitting 2 channel audio weird prior to that. I'll see if I can rig up something to put them higher temporarily before I go out and buy wall mounts.
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May 19, 2013 06:38
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Mulloy posted:They are at about rat level Only a few inches off the ground? I think that's the problem.
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May 19, 2013 12:54
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Mulloy posted:They are at about rat level but with the furniture I have my options are presently limited. I have these at home. http://www.amazon.com/SANUS-SYSTEMS-BF-31B-Speaker-Stands/dp/B00006JQ5O http://www.sanus.com/ca/en/products/speaker-foundations/sp-basic/BF31 They're nice, but you could probably make something nicer yourself for 1/4 the cost if you have some woodworking tools.
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May 19, 2013 20:04
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Of course time finally rolls around when I'm going to buy a receiver and the TX-NR609 is no longer available on accessories4less. It was a bit overkill for what I wanted anyway (a modest 3.0 setup), so I got the TX-NR515 instead, should be more than sufficient for my needs and was only about $230 shipped. Will be a nice upgrade to my old-rear end panasonic that has a whopping one HDMI (that I didn't even use).
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May 21, 2013 20:53
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I received my TX-NR818 the other day. This thing is a monster. I can tell it would definitely benefit from some bigger speakers. One thing I can say so far: if you're torn between a receiver that has Audyssey calibration and one that doesn't, you should go for the Audyssey model. I never completely understood what people meant when they talked about things like "imaging" and soundstage, but after running the full calibration I was finally getting that from my system. When you sit down in the right spot it's like one of those magic eye pictures suddenly snapping into focus; sounds seem to have a really precise origin at a particular point in space. And it managed it on a 3.1 setup with big piles of boxes in the middle of the floor (in the process of moving). It's going to be something else with 5.1 and a clear room.
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May 25, 2013 18:15
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For the benefit of the thread the defacto Klipsch 12rw recommendation may need changed, they are discontinued on newegg. Is there a newer version or other source? My friend was maybe looking for one.
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May 27, 2013 00:21
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dreesemonkey posted:For the benefit of the thread the defacto Klipsch 12rw recommendation may need changed, they are discontinued on newegg. Is there a newer version or other source? My friend was maybe looking for one. Used market first and foremost. Check the avsforum classifieds. Also the klipsch.com forum classifieds. Failing that, I will have to do some research. The sealed enclosure flat packs from diyaudiogroup.com are of similar price but with much better value. But you gotta assemble them and source an amp.
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May 27, 2013 02:49
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Skeleton Ape posted:I received my TX-NR818 the other day. This thing is a monster. I can tell it would definitely benefit from some bigger speakers. http://www.audyssey.com/audio-technology/dynamic-eq Don't forget to try out dynamic EQ. Its not the same as midnight mode or volume compression. I leave dynamic EQ on for everything. Basically its so you get the same balance of surround volume and the ratio of bass to treble that you get when listening loud.
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May 27, 2013 03:02
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Is there a 5.1 amp that would play nice with MMG's with MMGW surrounds that doesn't cost $5000? I currently have the MMGWs and I'm thinking of getting the MMG for more range and power. I currently have the MMGWs in 2.1 with a stereo only receiver and I'm a movie nerd. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 06:34 on May 27, 2013 |
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May 27, 2013 06:30
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