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Halo_4am posted:Somebody explain shift lights to me. I see them offered as aftermarket for a lot of bikes and I don't get the point. They're used on road race/track bikes as well. Do the math as to why someone wants that on their street bike.
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Aug 17, 2012 16:09
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Brick K bikes use a hall effect sensor on the final drive. I assume the newer ones use the same thing. I don't know what the ratio of sensor teeth to wheel travel is. Ok, definitely a hall sensor, also definitely supposed to specify which one in the order. Apparently there are a bunch of different ones ACE-S1 through like ACE-S14. When I get off work I'll have to dig out manuals and look into this. Also the temperature sensor thing is going to be a problem. Thanks for the help though! I am definitely on the right track ... just.. stupid.
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Aug 17, 2012 16:35
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Halo_4am posted:Somebody explain shift lights to me. I see them offered as aftermarket for a lot of bikes and I don't get the point. On a street bike there is no point except the bling factor. On a race/drag bike, there are advantages, although I would argue that most OEM shift lights are too small/dim to be effective. What you want is a big bright light that you dont have to look at and can just catch out of your peripheral vision.
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Aug 17, 2012 16:36
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:On a street bike there is no point except the bling factor. On a race/drag bike, there are advantages, although I would argue that most OEM shift lights are too small/dim to be effective. What you want is a big bright light that you dont have to look at and can just catch out of your peripheral vision. Yeah, this. I always figured the point was so that you didn't have to take your eyes off the road and still be alerted to the shift point. I actually have some on my scooter that I routinely ignore (and the ergo of the scooter mostly puts them out of my periphery anyway)
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Aug 17, 2012 17:06
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Any street bike with one is likely loud enough you don't need one. It could just be because my tach sucks but i never really look at it, i shift by sound and feel (vibration... Lol)
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Aug 17, 2012 17:09
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My thumpinator hits rev limiter really quickly. I usually shift around .75*redline, but sometimes when I'm really riding like a dong, I'll run into it. I wish it had a shift light around .9*redline.
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Aug 17, 2012 18:00
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alnilam posted:I'm interested to see how I feel about motorcycling in the cold. I ride my bicycle through the winter (probably down to 15 F) and really, good gloves are the only important part, because you heat your own core up by pedaling. Ice/snow is the only thing that keeps me off the roads, because people have way too high of an opinion of themselves driving in the snow, either that or they don't consider the bus an option. Motorcycling in the cold is really cold - you're sitting still plus massive windblast. The basic principle for winter biking is to add layers indoors until you think you're way, way too hot, then add another layer and you're good to go. PadreScout posted:Hal effect speedo sensor If you want to know, simply ask your bike to open the pod bay doors. If it refuses, it definitely has a HAL effect sensor. e: 
Saga fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Aug 17, 2012 |
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Aug 17, 2012 19:16
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So I came across a problem today. I put my battery back in my bike and was getting ready to drive it from where it was parked back to my house. When I went to start it, gas started leaking. When I looked for the leak, it was coming from a black hose that comes off the top of the carburetor and goes down between the two piston assemblies near a valve. It looks like the rubber hose is supposed to connect to the valve, but I am not sure what I am doing so I figured I'd ask before I put gas somewhere it might not go. Here is a picture of it
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Aug 17, 2012 20:02
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So, fuel is supposed to go: tank-->petcock-->carb (might be near the top depending on what kind of bike it is, but in my experience fuel goes into the bottom of the carb). Coming out of the top of the carb might be a vacuum line or an overflow line (like, if your carb's float pin got stuck and fuel just started flowing freely into the carb). Overflow lines sometimes go to the airbox, or just dump fuel out on the ground. If it's a vacuum line and you have a vacuum operated petcock, it should go to the petcock. It's hard to get any context from your picture. What kind of bike is it? Was the petcock off, and then you turned it on and fuel started coming out?
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Aug 17, 2012 20:18
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Safety Dance posted:So, fuel is supposed to go: It's an 86 shadow. By petcock I assume you mean fuel cut off? If so it doesn't happen with the fuel line off. The float arms have neoprene tips from what I've read and apparently they can dry out and allow the carburetor to overfill. That's kind of what I am assuming is wrong with it. I would like some outside input before I haul it to the garage and get them to fix the float arms.
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Aug 17, 2012 20:52
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My 2004 Kawasaki Ninja 500R started idling really high today. It was fine in the morning, but on my ride home from work it was idling at 3000rpm. This worries me, as It usually idles around 1500rpm. It had been sitting in a fairly neutral temperature garage all day, but I did skip my usual step of opening the choke all the way when I start the bike up. It takes about 10-15 seconds of idling like that for the engine to really get going in the morning, this afternoon I just assumed it would be fine and started it up from cold and rode off. Notes: it does need an oil change, but I wouldn't think that would make that much of a difference in idle rpms. Any thoughts or advice?
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Aug 18, 2012 02:18
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Pilot jets finally unclogged themselves!  Old oil will have nothing to do with this unless poo poo really hit the fan. You are probably running rich at idle, 10-15 seconds is no time in terms of idling for a liquid cooled bike, do you know how many turns you have on your pilot screws? I believe it's 1-1.5 turns out from fully seated for a stock airbox, but look that up as I don't have my manual handy. They loosen over time causing the bike to run rich at idle, and are concealed under a cap from the factory. Have you checked the throttle/enrichner("choke") cables to make sure they're not snagged? What happens if you lower the idle with the adjustment screw? It's between and below the carbs, and has a black knob. Sometimes when the pilot system is clogged a rider will turn up the idle to compensate, masking the problem. 1500rpm is a bit high for idle, but not out there. Around 1300 is usual. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Aug 18, 2012 |
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Aug 18, 2012 10:06
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Frame and fork sliders! How specific do they have to be to the motorcycle? (In my case, kawasaki vulcan 500) E.g. do I have to worry about how wide my chassis is, and make sure the sliders extend out far enough, or are they pretty standard/universal? (Other than having to find a place to put them first and get a thread size that fits) Finally, would you recommend them, especially for a beginner who does not plan to ride very aggressively? Cause dang, they are expensive for a little piece of metal/plastic, but somebody recommended them in passing.
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Aug 18, 2012 15:46
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Can you even find them for a Vulcan? Look for engine guards, those usually keep most of the bike off the ground in a tip over. Plus you can mount pegs to them for long distance comfort.
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Aug 18, 2012 17:13
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Now that I have a streetfightered '04 Ninja 636, I need sliders as the thing has none. What's the best brand to go by? There's no Motosliders for Kawasakis (the go-to brand in the SV650 world). No fairings to mess with, which is extra good.
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Aug 18, 2012 17:48
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Just buy whatever brand that need "cut". Since you don't have to cut any stupid holes most brands should work and they won't take more than a few minutes to put on.
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Aug 18, 2012 17:50
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Soooo the 1980 CB900c I've been working with has a problem. I've got the engine out, and I'm pulling off the cam holders, and POP. The head breaks off one of the bolts. I was gonna try to drill and ez-out, but this bolt has defeated every drill bit I own that's small enough. The cobalt bits from Home Depot just wore themselves out. Is there some sort of adamantium drill bit I should look for?  Also, one of the transfer case cover bolts did the same thing, but I got that with pliers. WTF am I doing to cause these things to snap like this?
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Aug 18, 2012 22:20
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Get a left-handed bit and try that first. If you're lucky, you won't even have to drill it out all the way -- the friction and vibration will start to back the bolt out for you and you'll be set. If that doesn't work, and you can't drill all the way through the bolt because you're breaking the left-handed bits as well, I would suggest finding a local place that can remove broken taps and asking them what to do. They may be able to burn the bolt out electrically. If you can't find a place like that, try buying some of this stuff. Expensive, but I've heard it's very effective and it'll last a long time. Concentrated nitric acid will also dissolve steel without affecting the surrounding aluminum, but it's a bit harder to get ahold of and one of the more dangerous mineral acids, so be careful. As to why they're breaking -- are you using plenty of liquid wrench or PB blaster? Soak any rusted or potentially stuck bolts overnight. And if you're just hauling on the bolt with a ratchet, try an impact driver instead. I don't know why, but I've never broken the head off a bolt when using an impact driver. Maybe the initial shock helps fracture through corrosion without twisting the head/shaft enough for it to shear off? I dunno. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Aug 18, 2012 |
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Aug 18, 2012 22:49
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Sagebrush posted:tips Awesome, thanks! One of these tips is gonna get this sumbitch out. 
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Aug 18, 2012 23:12
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What's the preferred method of cleaning a motorcycle? Is there some sort of Windex equivalent for the tank, etc. that I can buy?
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Aug 18, 2012 23:15
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I use this and a soft clean cloth. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Quik-Detailer-Mist-Spray/dp/B0009IQXAE
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Aug 18, 2012 23:20
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Just cleaning: standard car soap things and degreaser for the engine/swingarm. Detailing: there's a thread for that in AI.
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Aug 18, 2012 23:22
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Tyorik posted:What's the preferred method of cleaning a motorcycle? Is there some sort of Windex equivalent for the tank, etc. that I can buy?
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Aug 19, 2012 00:16
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For the main cleaning job I like Muc-Off - two minutes with this and a hose and the bike is like 90% clean, it's certainly good enough for the weekly wash. For the monthly OCD-wash the best thing in my cleaning kit (apart from a shitload of microfibre cloths I got from a pound shop) is an old electric toothbrush that, with a touch of swarfega loaded on it, will get grease and oil off of just about anything and get into spots your bike didn't know it had.
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Aug 19, 2012 00:42
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I have shift lights on my Speed Triple. There's a couple goofy useless patterns you can set but I have them all come on about 500RPM from redline. I think they come in handy, the Triple has a very flat torque curve and doesn't really sound all that different revving over about 7K. With all on/off at once it's fairly easy to see in peripheral vision, especially at night. Also useful if you're trying to follow the RPM shift points of the breakin. Nevertheless they're hardly a must-have feature.the walkin dude posted:Now that I have a streetfightered '04 Ninja 636, I need sliders as the thing has none. What's the best brand to go by? There's no Motosliders for Kawasakis (the go-to brand in the SV650 world). No fairings to mess with, which is extra good. http://www.oesaccessories.com/636.html
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Aug 19, 2012 00:49
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I can't believe you guys don't use S100 to clean. I thought it was bullshit but it really does work. Here's what I do every Friday: 1. Come home from work (on bike) 2. Hose bike down on a trickle hose head setting 3. Liberally apply S100 everywhere 4. Let sit 10 minutes 5. Hose bike with a sharp, direct head setting. Note do not do this where lots of electrical bits live. Use a soft trickle there. 6. Let sit in sun for 30 minutes 7. Manually dry some small spots, detail rims and clean/lube chain 8. Check tire pressure and that fun stuff Cleaning my bike is now not a pain in the rear end which rocks. The S100 and hard water spray takes away almoat all scrubbing, and it dries in the sun without spotting. S100 is expensive but fuuuck it's worth it, and I am now its whore.
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Aug 19, 2012 02:00
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I read through the AI detailing thread and it seemed like a bit much for me; waxing, buffing, taping, etc. Can I get away with a setup like this: Muc-Off, Meguiar's Quik Detailer Mist & Wipe Spray, Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax, Meguiar's Supreme Shine Microfiber Cloths, The Absorber Or the whole Meguiar's Complete Car Care Kit
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Aug 19, 2012 02:35
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Fixed Gear Guy posted:I can't believe you guys don't use S100 to clean. I thought it was bullshit but it really does work. Here's what I do every Friday: If you left out step 1 it would be "how to own a ducati.txt"
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Aug 19, 2012 02:36
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Bloody Queef posted:If you left out step 1 it would be "how to own a ducati.txt" I hear if you park your Ducati near a hose, this spontaneously happens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTAkGe-7ito
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Aug 19, 2012 02:54
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Snowdens, thanks for the linkage. I decided to pick the name I've heard dropped often, Woodcraft. Today I put the 636 on a rear stand and inspected everything. I've been riding it around and around, and so far it seems awesome for the $2800 asking price, but I just had to make sure that there aren't any hidden surprises. The brake fluid was begging for replacement, and the coolant reservoir jug naturally needs replacement but was "glued" over to prevent any further short-term leakage. The fork seals look like this, with little vertical "cracks" - or slits - in a row going around the seal. A bit hard to see in the picture below. They aren't leaky. Are they due for replacement? Should I go ahead and replace the fork oil/seals with it being a 8 year old bike? 
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Aug 19, 2012 03:06
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the walkin dude posted:The fork seals look like this, with little vertical "cracks" - or slits - in a row going around the seal. A bit hard to see in the picture below. They aren't leaky. Are they due for replacement? Should I go ahead and replace the fork oil/seals with it being a 8 year old bike?
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Aug 19, 2012 04:07
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Well, if your seals are still good, you should still replace the cracked dust seals, as cracked ones will let crap get into your seals and ruin them.
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Aug 19, 2012 04:22
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Armyman25 posted:I hear if you park your Ducati near a hose, this spontaneously happens. more like hoes
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Aug 19, 2012 17:42
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Well, if your seals are still good, you should still replace the cracked dust seals, as cracked ones will let crap get into your seals and ruin them. on usd forks this is as big a job as replacing the seals
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Aug 19, 2012 18:17
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Since my windshield search for my GS 550ES has turned up goose eggs I've decided to go another direction. I want to take the whole cowling and headlight off and mount a set of these on instead. http://www.flyncycle.com/Dominator_Twin_Motorcycle_Headlight_p/hlutrblk.htm How involved of a project is this going to be?
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Aug 19, 2012 20:57
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Armyman25 posted:I hear if you park your Ducati near a hose, this spontaneously happens. This is quite possibly the least erotic thing I have ever seen.
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Aug 19, 2012 21:14
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Flikken posted:Since my windshield search for my GS 550ES has turned up goose eggs I've decided to go another direction. I want to take the whole cowling and headlight off and mount a set of these on instead. It depends on how much of your loom is stuffed into the old headlight bucket, tidying it away is the worst part of a headlight swap. edit: didnt realise it was a half faired bike. same thing applies but the loom will be more spread out through the fairings. and you'll need to figure out a mount for the indicators. echomadman fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Aug 19, 2012 |
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Aug 19, 2012 21:17
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MotoMind posted:This is quite possibly the least erotic thing I have ever seen. I found it quite arousing then I realised it was a Multistrada and not a Dorsoduro and went instantly flaccid.
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Aug 19, 2012 21:21
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echomadman posted:It depends on how much of your loom is stuffed into the old headlight bucket, tidying it away is the worst part of a headlight swap. Any suggestions on a bolt on mount and new indicators? I am totally new at this stuff and not even sure where to begin.
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Aug 19, 2012 21:31
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I found it quite arousing then I realised it was a Multistrada and not a Dorsoduro and went instantly flaccid. Hypermotard.
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Aug 19, 2012 21:45
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