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I know the Fiat is ugly, but is the abarth engine any good?
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Apr 29, 2016 15:12
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Well considering Fiat is at the bottom of the Consumer Report's reliability survey right now I'd say probably not.
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Apr 29, 2016 15:21
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I'm confused, is a fiat Miata and also an Alfa Romeo Miata?
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Apr 29, 2016 15:23
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I put up a cut of all the footage i could find out the brave MiaTrumpa, Trumpata, MX-Trump. Skip to the second half for closer, non helicopter footage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqXnoa2qyPQ
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Apr 29, 2016 15:54
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ethanol posted:I'm confused, is a fiat Miata and also an Alfa Romeo Miata? I'm pretty sure the Alfa one morphed into the Fiata since Alfa is Fiat.
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Apr 29, 2016 15:58
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The head of fiat made a big noise about "No alfa romeo will ever be built outside italy" and it was switched to a fiat, an ugly one. (Looks like a Crossfire hosed a S30 Datsun) That being said, i'll take 155 N/A horsepower over 165 turbo horsepower every single time.
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Apr 29, 2016 16:01
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MattD1zzl3 posted:I put up a cut of all the footage i could find out the brave MiaTrumpa, Trumpata, MX-Trump. Skip to the second half for closer, non helicopter footage. I didn't realize the dude drove through a bunch of cops there at the end, he has some massive balls.
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Apr 29, 2016 16:04
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That had me grinning for a half hour last night, Trump should give the driver a cabinet position.
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Apr 29, 2016 17:30
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Holy crap I just noticed that the cops had their guns drawn on that guy right at the end, he's lucky he didn't get shot. Somebody zoom and enhance that poo poo, i don't know how 
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Apr 29, 2016 19:53
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My parking brake has started failing recently. Won't hold on even a slight incline. I tried doing the lever adjustment to about 7 clicks, and then did the hex adjustment at the rear calipers. That worked great for about a week, but now it's back to where it started. I'm about to try another adjustment again, but I'm not hopeful that it'll stick this time. Any ideas on what the problem could be? I've read about this automatic adjuster thing that's supposed to work after driving the car for a little bit; could that be the culprit? I'm not sure how long it takes for it to do its thing, but I drove about 500 miles before the parking brake started failing again. Could it be auto-adjusting incorrectly somehow? Haven't had a brake job for 3 years and the pads look fine, so I don't think it's that. I made sure to handle the rear calipers correctly at that time so I don't think it's a damaged piston; besides, it's worked fine all this time and when I did the first adjustment last week. Hikaki fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Apr 30, 2016 |
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Apr 30, 2016 05:02
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Atomizer posted:There's nothing wrong with ATs, some people prefer them. In a related topic, what brand of tampon do you use? Hell, I didn't realize an NA could do donuts on dry asphalt.
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Apr 30, 2016 08:14
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I didn't realize you still had an NA though! 
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the red bastard strikes again
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May 1, 2016 18:34
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crutt posted:the red bastard strikes again I'm about to have to tear it out again to replace some lifters. I think we've done the timing belt 20 times on this car already for various reasons.
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May 1, 2016 20:24
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Hikaki posted:My parking brake has started failing recently. Won't hold on even a slight incline. I tried doing the lever adjustment to about 7 clicks, and then did the hex adjustment at the rear calipers. That worked great for about a week, but now it's back to where it started. I'm about to try another adjustment again, but I'm not hopeful that it'll stick this time. Any ideas on what the problem could be? I've read about this automatic adjuster thing that's supposed to work after driving the car for a little bit; could that be the culprit? I'm not sure how long it takes for it to do its thing, but I drove about 500 miles before the parking brake started failing again. Could it be auto-adjusting incorrectly somehow? I had a problem just like that, and it ended up being something with sticking rear calipers. Since that's pretty much the only part of the system you haven't verified, I'd just replace them. If you've done anything with brakes before, it's not terribly difficult or expensive.
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May 1, 2016 21:09
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Lyesh posted:I had a problem just like that, and it ended up being something with sticking rear calipers. Since that's pretty much the only part of the system you haven't verified, I'd just replace them. If you've done anything with brakes before, it's not terribly difficult or expensive. What kind of symptoms did you have with a stuck caliper? Mine appear to work fine via both the parking brake (after adjustment) and the pedal. I mean, the rotor stops when I apply the brakes and is free when I release. Is it something different from that? Something I noticed when trying hex adjustment #2: I did the adjustment and then pumped the parking brake a bunch of times while I left the hex key in. I could actually see the key turn to loosen the caliper which I suppose is normal. Then I tried loosening it several full turns so that the brakes didn't even work anymore. Pumping the parking brake resulted in it loosening up even more, when I suppose normally it should be tightening at that point? Seems like it just keeps loosening forever with every use of the parking brake.
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May 2, 2016 01:09
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Could have a busted adjuster. Unless maybe the stuck caliper is making it act that way. The adjuster shouldn't turn at all with usage of the parking brake. Its basically manually setting the engagement distance to the rotor. Once that is set, the parking brake cable or the regular brake hydraulics move the piston the rest of the way, but not through the adjuster mechanism. Just got the Megasquirt installed and working (badly) today. First start it was very angry and dumped in what smelled like 5 gallons of gas. Second start it seemed to even out a bit. Idle is a bit rough, and seems to be a bit leaner than most Miatas idle happy. I have an asston of reading to do figuring out how all the tables interact with each other, hopefully before melting a hole in something.
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May 2, 2016 08:19
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Are you running tuner studio? I had a hell of a time finding the one box to check so I could actually edit my AFR table and not just have it grayed out. After that it was pretty simple to get running just a bit rich instead of dumping gas out my tailpipe.
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May 2, 2016 13:45
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Hikaki posted:What kind of symptoms did you have with a stuck caliper? Mine appear to work fine via both the parking brake (after adjustment) and the pedal. I mean, the rotor stops when I apply the brakes and is free when I release. Is it something different from that? The other symptom was significantly more brake dust than there should have been. As far as I can tell, it's possible for the caliper to be partially stuck or something, where it doesn't back off as far as it should when you let off the brakes. But it still backs off a bit, so you don't get the situation where the pad magically disappears in like a thousand miles. Alternatively the adjuster (or something else in the caliper body) was screwed up and switching out the calipers fixed it.
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May 2, 2016 14:58
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Bud posted:Are you running tuner studio? I had a hell of a time finding the one box to check so I could actually edit my AFR table and not just have it grayed out. After that it was pretty simple to get running just a bit rich instead of dumping gas out my tailpipe. Yeah, I'm using Tuner Studio and need to find that box. Having a decently poo poo time conceptualizing the VE tables and their effects.
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May 2, 2016 19:10
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If anyone has gone from power to a manual steering rack or de powered the rack I'd love to hear about it. I've heard that de powering and then welding something in the power rack is better than installing a manual rack, however it sounds like installing a manual rack would be easier if I can find one. I'm thinking about getting rid of power steering as well as the a/c.
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May 3, 2016 02:26
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leica posted:If anyone has gone from power to a manual steering rack or de powered the rack I'd love to hear about it. I've heard that de powering and then welding something in the power rack is better than installing a manual rack, however it sounds like installing a manual rack would be easier if I can find one. I did the power to manual swap (actual manual, not de-powered) mechanically it's as simple as can be. As far as the feel of the car, I think in my case it fits the car perfectly. Mine is pretty far removed from stock though, coilovers with high rates, big front bar, bushings and an alignment to go with it all. I'm not sure the slower manual rack would be as good a fit on a stock car, but that's just speculation on my part. A welded power rack might be tough(er) to turn at parking lot speeds, but no direct experience here. The AC is your preference, up north I don't have a problem without it, but no way in hell I'd live down south without it.
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May 3, 2016 04:10
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Well it's not my DD, and honestly even in the worst FL heat with a two piece top it's not terrible. The a/c doesn't work anyway and I haven't used it in the two years I've owned it. If I end up keeping it (still haven't really decided yet) I want to go the simple route and take some load off the motor.
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May 3, 2016 04:35
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I Depowered the power rack the somewhat ghetto way. Removed the pump and hoses, pumped out most of the fluid from the rack, connected the input to the output and capped off the big fittings. Got it aligned with a bunch of caster to try and ease up the steering feel. Still not sure how I feel about it really. Steering effort isn't super noticeable above 10mph. Our autocross courses here are generally a bit slower and tighter due to space constrictions. Next time I run an autocross will tell.
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May 3, 2016 06:10
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There's a local guy selling a manual rack for $100. I was thinking maybe doing that, then take my power rack and have it done the "right" way and see which one is better for science. I forget what actually has to be welded in the power rack, but I could probably find somebody local to do it or send it out somewhere. Either way I'd want the best steering feel possible. If I start doing all this poo poo to it I'll have to keep it I suppose 
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May 3, 2016 06:24
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Well After driving around and letting Tunerstudio do its VEAL autotune thing, the car is back to 90%. The other 10% is managing to log when the ECU loses RPM sync and stalls the engine to find out what the gently caress is causing it. I bet its that stupid CAS sensor getting flaky. Stock ECU dealt with it somehow. Not sure whats going on.
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May 3, 2016 06:46
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What are goon thoughts on the fmII turbo kit? This car just popped up near me: http://youngstown.craigslist.org/cto/5567301293.html
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May 3, 2016 20:06
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What's your budget again? You've posted things all over. Have you considered this one : http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/5551923332.html
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May 3, 2016 21:02
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mariooncrack posted:What's your budget again? You've posted things all over. Have you considered this one :
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May 3, 2016 21:36
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willroc7 posted:What are goon thoughts on the fmII turbo kit? This car just popped up near me: The FMII is basically bulletproof. If they were willing to pay the price premium to buy it, the chances are better they had it tuned correctly. Edit: Takes all the fun out of doing it yourself though. Laranzu fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 3, 2016 22:05
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If your budget is around $5k, why are you considering a car that's almost $7k and significantly over your budget? Is there something about the na that's more appealing? From my understanding, early nbs are about the same price and from my understanding they're not too mechanically different. mariooncrack fucked around with this message at 23:54 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 3, 2016 23:51
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mariooncrack posted:If your budget is around $5k, why are you considering a car that's almost $7k and significantly over your budget? NBs are ugly? I started out wanting an NA but couldn't find one in my region without rust so I ended up going with an NC instead so I'm probably not the right person to ask. The NB was never an option because I hate the way it looks in the front.
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May 4, 2016 00:16
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I just prefer the looks of the NA. I'm considering something so far outside my budget because I'm thinking it might be that good of a deal. That's what I'm looking for input on. The kit seems to be worth a lot. Is it?
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May 4, 2016 00:55
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Okay fair. I guess I never really looked or cared about how the NB looks. I hope my last post didn't sound mean or anything, just trying to find more out about the situation. Looking it up on Flying Miata, it looks like the turbo alone is $4-5k+. If it's done right, yeah it's probably worth it. Flying Miata seems like a reputable vendor. In the event you were to buy that car, do you have extra money set aside for other repairs or maintenance? It'd suck if you finally got the car you wanted and something broke that you can't afford to fix.
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May 4, 2016 01:27
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A turbo Miata might not turn out to be such a great deal. Unless you know a shitload about Miatas AND turbo Miatas I'd stick to stock if I were you. Even if you have the money to pay someone to work on it, finding someone that knows what the gently caress they're doing isn't easy either. [e] For the record, I worked at a Miata specific shop for a few years and the owner had issues with the FM kits, they're not perfect but none of them are I suppose. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 01:42 on May 4, 2016 |
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May 4, 2016 01:38
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OK. I'll keep looking for a clean stock one. Thanks guy.s
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May 4, 2016 02:00
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It's tempting to look at mods and tally up the value but you are also buying somebody's project and that will 100% come with headaches. My 90 had a ton of cool stuff but also a bunch of half assed work that I routinely correct as issues crop up. Luckily it's a dedicated autocross and weekend fun car so when it craps out I just park it till I'm in the mood to deal.
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May 4, 2016 02:12
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Yeah if you want to learn about Miatas, get one that's bone stock and wrench on it. Then mod is as you see fit, to your driving style/preference.
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May 4, 2016 02:17
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It's also got the manual steering rack and it's by far my favorite feature. Never driven a depowered one but I absolutely love mine.
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May 4, 2016 02:34
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leica posted:
Any aftermarket turbo kit is going to have dumb issues. Theirs is just really well done and supported so it's minimized a bit. A bunch of aftermarket parts on a car are not really a value adder unless done really really well. Mine, with a bunch of expensive modifications is such a hacked together mess right now I wouldn't even feel right selling it due to safety concerns
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May 4, 2016 02:58
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Laranzu posted:Any aftermarket turbo kit is going to have dumb issues. Theirs is just really well done and supported so it's minimized a bit. This was back around '07 so I imagine it's probably better now, I just remember lots of fitment issues with parts being sent back.
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May 4, 2016 03:11
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