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McSpatula posted:Does anyone know the nut size for the bottom trans stud? M10 X 1.25 is the nut Stud is part # 800910470 daslog fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 03:19
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Also you need a washer in there.
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Jan 25, 2014 06:49
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Put some blue loctite on there if you're concerned about it coming loose.
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Jan 25, 2014 15:06
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Posted a couple weeks ago for a P0303(cylinder #3 misfire) despite not hearing or feeling a misfire. Cleared the error, hasn't come back though admittedly I've only gone through a bit over one tank of gas since. Got a P0420(catalyst system efficiency below threshold - bank1) today, again not hearing or feeling anything unusual. I've done a little bit of research, they seem to be linked? Anyone gone through this before? 2003 wrx wagon, 73000ish miles
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Jan 25, 2014 21:34
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dag01 posted:Posted a couple weeks ago for a P0303(cylinder #3 misfire) despite not hearing or feeling a misfire. Cleared the error, hasn't come back though admittedly I've only gone through a bit over one tank of gas since. Got a P0420(catalyst system efficiency below threshold - bank1) today, again not hearing or feeling anything unusual. I've done a little bit of research, they seem to be linked? Anyone gone through this before? P0420 is the code for your Catalytic converter not working. If you haven't deleted your CATS then it probably means it's plugged up.
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Jan 25, 2014 21:49
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It says here http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/gener...tml#post2429003 that quote:What I'm saying is the 02-03 ECU's were very sensitive to misfires.A lot of them are phantom events. Know anything about that? My wrx is stock yet, should I just upgrade the uppipe and remove the cat.. and flash it stage 2 while I'm at it?
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Jan 25, 2014 21:54
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I was looking at buying a new car because the thought of driving my current on off of a cliff seems like a better and better idea every day... Anyway, I've decided on getting a WRX hatch. It'll be my first new car, just saving up for a meaty downpayment. I was looking at the SWP, and I dig the look with the side moldings. Is it worth it getting a Limited over a Premium, or even either of those over a base? My girlfriend really wants it to have heated seats, but I don't care for moon roofs on cars and I've never had fogs on a car before so I don't really know what I'm missing out on. Any other options I should check out? Going to go to a dealership next weekend to check some out. I hear these are a riot to drive, and I actually dig the interior, especially coming from a 1991 Civic hatchback with no heat. The WRX is going to feel like a god drat luxury car in comparison.
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Jan 25, 2014 23:57
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Thorpe posted:My girlfriend really wants it to have heated seats, but I don't care for moon roofs on cars and I've never had fogs on a car before so I don't really know what I'm missing out on. Any other options I should check out? Going to go to a dealership next weekend to check some out. The fog lights are useless; you can't turn them on unless the headlights are on so they're just there to make the front of your car more bLING-bLING. The moon roof is OK if you like that sort of thing, and the seat heaters are really nice if you live somewhere cold enough to think about it. EDIT: vvvvvv Proper fog lights used correctly are useful. The ones that pretty much every OEM puts out in the US are rubbish, plus the law in nearly all if not all 50 states is that you can't run fogs without the headlights on too. That negates much of the usefulness of a low-mounted light on the front of the car - not reflecting a bunch of illumination off rain or fog, but rather illuminating the road more clearly. The ones on my STi are dim compared to the headlights and don't make any road features easier to see. USDM OEM Subaru fog lights are for decoration, nothing more. Midjack fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 01:26
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Fog lights are very useful in heavy rain, I use them all the time  . They are heaps brighter and make your car heaps easier to see when visibility is poor. They have only 1 real use, and its an on the spot fine in Australia for using them in normal conditions, but they are far from useless.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:44
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Fog lights are actually useful in heavy fog and rain.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:55
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I live in Michigan so it can get pretty cold here. Especially this year. I have to jump my civic whenever I want to drive it anywhere its been so cold. I don't like moon roofs because they always seem to leak and break, but I guess on a new car I wouldn't have to worry to much about that. I just wish I could get the heated seats in the base model! Oh well. I could probably learn to like a moon roof.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:00
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Thorpe posted:I live in Michigan so it can get pretty cold here. Especially this year. I have to jump my civic whenever I want to drive it anywhere its been so cold. I don't like moon roofs because they always seem to leak and break, but I guess on a new car I wouldn't have to worry to much about that. I just wish I could get the heated seats in the base model! Oh well. I could probably learn to like a moon roof. A friend of mine got the base model WRX and got the heated seats added as an option through the dealership. Might be an option for you too. edit: and I have a base model '13 WRX with fogs. BoyBlunder fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 02:44
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Yeah they'd use the same rails so the service centre can swap them out really easily. Fog lights would be an easy install too.
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Jan 26, 2014 04:35
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If subaru is anything like ford, the wires and plug might be there under the carpet already as well.
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Jan 26, 2014 04:59
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Your PM inbox is full so I sent you an email about the dash lid, did it go through?
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Jan 26, 2014 05:39
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Do you need to drain the oil to do the valve cover gaskets on a flat four (EJ20K)? I'm guessing no since it should be in the pan but figured I'd ask. Yes I plan on replacing the gaskets with the engine off.
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Jan 26, 2014 08:51
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In my area hatchbacks have all dried up. There were a few STIs still but those are now going after the release details of the new STI. At least that is what one of the guys at my dealer was telling me. We found lots of sedans though. The used car guy even said he would make me a great deal on mine if I wanted to get the 2015. I guess he thinks he could get nearly new money for an SWP '13 hatch with 6k miles. I got a base model and took the money saved on fogs and a moon roof and redid the stereo and sways etc... Good luck with your search. Edit: autocorrect = wrong. Aflicted fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 16:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/2006-subaru-wrx--ash+tray/59-1139--481942/
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Jan 26, 2014 19:03
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InitialDave posted:Dammit, why am I only finding these things from foreign sellers? Does no-one in the UK need instrument bulbs? Just eBay them from China. The size (74) is incredibly common and you can pick them up at Halfords or whatever, I just think LEDs are a better option in almost all cases.
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Jan 26, 2014 19:18
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Actually, I just found some. I was being a muppet.
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Jan 26, 2014 19:28
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 04 WRX wagon here. I seem to have developed some negative camber on the driver side rear wheel. From what I can tell, this is not adjustable but there are tweaks to adjust it, does that sound right? What could cause this on one side? Bad spring/shock or worn bushing or something? Car is pretty much stock at 97K. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 22:47
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I replaced a seriously worn strut that did the same thing on my 03 Impreza wagon. Pick up some KYBs from RockAuto or Amazon.
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Jan 26, 2014 22:49
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I replaced a seriously worn strut that did the same thing on my 03 Impreza wagon. Pick up some KYBs from RockAuto or Amazon. Is is probably best to go and get 4 new ones, or replace just the one. I am thinking as I want to keep the car as long as possible, do all 4?
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Jan 26, 2014 22:53
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Replace them in pairs at the very least, but I'd say get 4 if you can. It's a pretty easy job to swap them.
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Jan 26, 2014 22:57
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Get all four if you can.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:09
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Four it is. Thanks for the replies everyone.
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Jan 26, 2014 23:32
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Any recommendations for strut replacement in a 98 STi? I was thinking I'd keep the STi springs, at least one of my rear shocks is blown however and I was just going to replace damping to all 4 corners.
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Jan 27, 2014 00:20
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I was originally looking at a Satin White Pearl, but I can't find any at any dealerships nearby. I quite like the dark grey metallic as well. Think I might go looking at one of those!
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Jan 27, 2014 00:50
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Thorpe posted:I was originally looking at a Satin White Pearl, but I can't find any at any dealerships nearby. I quite like the dark grey metallic as well. Think I might go looking at one of those! You can also look outside of your area if a local dealer is willing to trade cars. Mine was shipped over from another state. My dealer made a trade with the other dealer and a week later mine was delivered. The hatchbacks are getting harder to find and anyone that wanted one is buying up after the 2015 was confirmed sedan only.
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Jan 27, 2014 02:28
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VelociBacon posted:Any recommendations for strut replacement in a 98 STi? I was thinking I'd keep the STi springs, at least one of my rear shocks is blown however and I was just going to replace damping to all 4 corners. I'm trying to think of GC specific parts and KYB AGX is about all I can come up with. Maybe there are tokicos for it. If you have inverted red struts, in which case you can send them to Feal in CA to be serviced and rebuilt. You'll need to be ok without driving your car for a few weeks probably though, unless you find some cheap impreza suspension to put on in the meantime.
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Jan 27, 2014 02:30
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Any GD setup will work too, you'll just gain a bit of height in the rear and some positive camber that you can dial out easily with rear camber bolts.
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Jan 27, 2014 02:53
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VelociBacon posted:Any recommendations for strut replacement in a 98 STi? I was thinking I'd keep the STi springs, at least one of my rear shocks is blown however and I was just going to replace damping to all 4 corners. Just replace with OEM. They are actually pretty good and I cant off the top of my head think of a better alternative unless you find Bilsteins..... no wait if they are inverted in that model they are Bilsteins. Yours is the RA, right? Then yeah, find stock replacements / get them rebuilt. You may need to contact Japan or Australian suppliers and just as a warning, the GC STI's esp the RA variants are a bit unforgiving on suspension replacements, be careful as results can be unexpected. The OEM stuff for the STI's and RA's are actually pretty good anyway. quote:Any GD setup will work too, you'll just gain a bit of height in the rear and some positive camber that you can dial out easily with rear camber bolts. DO NOT DO THIS IN A GC STI. This is hysterically dangerous if you are not looking to raise the car for rallying and also want to do the supporting mods to allow it to work. A experienced camper tried this and they are still finding bits of the car at Wakefield 5 years later. Plus whatever remained of his leg bones. Someone else tried this and lost over a second a lap and put the car away for the day after two sessions as just plain undrivable.
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Jan 27, 2014 03:56
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What's the problem with the gd stuff on those? Too much rate or just the height? I've driven a few base model gf Imprezas with gd wrx struts and they seemed workable for road course and mild rally cross.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:07
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Cat Terrist posted:DO NOT DO THIS IN A GC STI. This is hysterically dangerous if you are not looking to raise the car for rallying and also want to do the supporting mods to allow it to work. A experienced camper tried this and they are still finding bits of the car at Wakefield 5 years later. Plus whatever remained of his leg bones. Someone else tried this and lost over a second a lap and put the car away for the day after two sessions as just plain undrivable. Uh, well yeah, I assume if he's planning to do track days in this thing he'd specify, because something like the AGX is not really a suitable choice either. However, could you elaborate? I'm afraid I have no idea what could make your car randomly explode and take your legs off from running a strut that adds like 1/4" to the body. I run Feal's revalved 04 GD US STI struts in my GM6. I have (GC) STI (steel) lateral and trailing links in the rear, and the STI aluminum control arms up front, along with Gp.N GD STI top mounts up front and Gp.N 1st gen Legacy rear tops. The front alignment was fine with the stock adjustments, and in the rear I had to add camber bolts to the upper hole in the rear to dial the positive camber out there. Did the guy try to run camber bolts in the lower holes in the front or something? I know that's a terrible idea, but you don't need to do it either. I still get about -1.6deg camber on the fronts with just the stock bolts.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:14
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What's the problem with the gd stuff on those? Too much rate or just the height? I've driven a few base model gf Imprezas with gd wrx struts and they seemed workable for road course and mild rally cross. They have their own specific suspension componetry setup, the exact specifics I'd have to troll back into archives of my laptop to exactly see - the RA esp has a trap for unwary players. Just swapping in GD bits without some good thinking about exactly what you are doing, just got another window open here on discussion on a 98 RA and the person in question used a GC specific coilover as part of his development and it ended up a twitchy nightmare. That's a geometry issue but I also saw that particular car simply run out of wheel travel very easily and didnt have much suspension control on that setup. (98 RA) What I am seeing here on this discussion was the geometry became a mess, you actually need to think of the STI and STI RA as a seperate chassis. The fix in the end was he did a full chassis swap from an 06 STI (incl hubs, diff, arms etc etc) before the twitchiness went away. Looking at the guy who's teeth wound up in the Wakefield catchfence (and he was no amateur and didnt miss the basics), the car snapped out under braking due to what he thinks was a bumpstop problem - hit the stops, the suspension goes gently caress you and off you go. Another thought someone else came up with was the spring completely unloaded as the travel the GD is designed for is not the same as a GC - and the STI is less again, so what hapens is the spring becomes like a dick in a sock and comes out of the perch. It also makes the car work like you have cut the springs. I think the second is what happened as the guy described the car as having a abrupt ride on the road with what is to me to be symptoms of a strut not in control of the spring. Been there, hosed up like that.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:51
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Interesting - do you know where the difference comes from in the RA? I didn't know it had different lats/control arms or.. subframes? I'm trying to think where the difference could come from. Not the uprights. I know the STI non-RA isn't, because I'm running most of the components (not a subframe) from one, and I've had them side by side, geometry is the same. The struts - the only significant difference is the strut body for a GD (up to 04 STI in the US) is slightly longer below the bottom perch. And with slightly we're talking like 5mm. The travel is actually slightly longer - which might make sense from what you said if he put a GC spring in a GD strut. I'm running GD springs because I actually want the rear to be slightly oversprung for tight corners/hairpins, but I could see where having a GD spring imbalance in the rear could also be a bit of a disaster on a track. I still don't really see anything that would be that drastic though - I mean, I assume the guy took it easy for a few laps on a new suspension to get a feel for it.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:56
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My 2006 Saab 9-2X 2.5i threw P0420 code the day before a 4000 mile road trip, so i disconnected the battery to clear it and went anyway. It stayed off for the trip, then the day after we got back it appeared again and the battery trick only last about 40 miles now. Fuel economy is the same, but the flashing cruise control and solid check engine light are annoying. The car has good service records since new and 178k miles if that matters. Can asking here help my problem? Should I go to a Subaru shop and believe/pay whatever they say?
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Jan 27, 2014 04:57
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The problem I have is that the strut's lower mounting point is farther out. So on a narrow tracked car there is an amount of binding that occurs due to the extra side loading on the strut. I did not notice this (I have GD sti struts on my older Legacy) until I put in stiff rear suspension bushings in. Now I can feel it and the suspension is stiffer than it should be. I have also heard of guys with GG wagons using sedan suspension breaking the valves inside their dampers. So yeah, use GC struts on a GC. I can get you a set of ST coilovers for around a grand if you want to go that way. Entry level, no damping adjustment, not serviceable, but made by KW. They have reasonable spring rates, fairly good dampers, and more than enough travel. The next thing worth buying are AST single adjustable coilovers then KW V3 then RCE tarmac 2.
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Jan 27, 2014 05:27
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jamal posted:The problem I have is that the strut's lower mounting point is farther out. So on a narrow tracked car there is an amount of binding that occurs due to the extra side loading on the strut. I did not notice this (I have GD sti struts on my older Legacy) until I put in stiff rear suspension bushings in. Now I can feel it and the suspension is stiffer than it should be. I have also heard of guys with GG wagons using sedan suspension breaking the valves inside their dampers. I'd have no problem replacing my shocks with OEM if I knew where/how to find them. I don't think I'll upgrade to coilovers at this stage, have other priorities for that money right now. Thanks for the interesting discussion guys. Edit: Cat Terrist posted:Just replace with OEM. They are actually pretty good and I cant off the top of my head think of a better alternative unless you find Bilsteins..... no wait if they are inverted in that model they are Bilsteins. Yeah mine is a STi Type-RA V-limited. I've noticed previously that it has some kinda weird conical inserts on the LCA's where the balljoints fit into, I wouldn't be surprised to find there were other things about the suspension that wouldn't be forgiving to other manufacturer's components. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 06:33
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The conical things are because of the aluminum arms. Plenty of cars have them. If you have inverted struts (pretty sure you do), send them to feal to be rebuilt and borrow/buy something cheap in the meantime.
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Jan 27, 2014 06:51
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