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what in the name of gently caress, I have swapped out my bars but for the life of me I cannot get both the push and pull throttle cables re-connected. Somebody, anybody, tell me how you're supposed to get them both on, I mean goddamn.
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Feb 2, 2013 23:26
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 00:29 |
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Are you making it way more difficult on yourself by trying to do it while the throttle tube is on the bars? Lots of slack makes it very easy.
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Feb 2, 2013 23:55
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I managed somehow, everything is on now
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Feb 3, 2013 00:06
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Does anyone here have one of the Harbor Freight foldable trailers? A guy at work has one. That weight limit is the absolute maximum it can take. There is NO safety factor built in. We put 16 bags of quikrete on the thing (16x60 = 960lb), and it sheared a spring perch coming out of the Home Depot parking lot. He dragged it over to Harbor freight and got it replaced. 15 bags of quikrete on the trailer, one in the truck = no problems.
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Feb 3, 2013 00:07
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$300 will get you a decent used trailer. I wouldn't trust that harbor freight trailer with anything, really.
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Feb 3, 2013 00:12
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Well drat, now the throttle is slow to come back, and it almost seems like the engine is choking when I try to give it gas quickly. I better just take it for a ride around the block and see what happens. Edit: lubed the poo poo out of the push and pull cables, the throttle snaps right back now. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Feb 3, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 00:21
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Spiffness posted:$300 will get you a decent used trailer. I wouldn't trust that harbor freight trailer with anything, really. This looks good.
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Feb 3, 2013 00:30
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I'd pull that giant air brake off but yeah. We picked up a good 3 rail motorcycle trailer for $400 off Craigslist, used it for 2 seasons of track bikes and dirt bikes including drives of many hours. Works great. Just hauling a bike doesn't have to be expensive but you want some decent sized rubber on the trailer and it not to be a janky bottom dollar piece of poo poo
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Feb 3, 2013 00:37
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Bucephalus posted:This looks good. I'm no trailer genius but inst that one putting a lot of weight on the hitch with the wheels right at the back like that. edit: also does that front wheel chock move along the tongue to accomodate different bikes? otherwise that thing is retardly long echomadman fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Feb 3, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 00:50
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone know where I can get a Bell Star Hess in XS at a non-retard price? Can't find one anywhere. A local shop has my second graphics choice for the Star but wants $700 for it, wtf. I should buy this too, afterall, it'd match my Hess tattoo!
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Feb 3, 2013 01:51
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My first DSPO story! Also a DSCO story. I managed to kill my wife's S40 battery by pulling the key out in P mode rather than Off mode. I was hoping I'd be able to jump it, but it's straight up gone. Given the amount of corroded battery acid near the battery I'm pretty sure it's a few years old anyway. When jumping didn't work, I figured I'd just pull the battery out and replace it, but the owner or two before me managed to strip the Phillips head screw that fastens the battery gard to the rest of the housing. I'm having a hard time explaining it, but it's basically a metal piece that holds the battery in place on the right side and keeps it from moving around or banging into the small adjacent storage area. The way the screw is inserted, I can see a bit of the bottom hanging free - maybe enough to grip with needle nose pliers. If I wanted to, I could pretty easily break the cover/guard out and remove the battery, but I'd rather not damage the bike just because the screw is messed up. Is there a tool or good trick for getting them out? I'd rather not have to push the bike a mile to the closest shop to have them fix a little problem. If it's not readily apparent, I'm not incredibly mechanically inclined. 
Well Played Mauer fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Feb 3, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 02:13
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Dremel a slot in it and use a big phillips head screwdriver or a punch to knock it loose.
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Feb 3, 2013 03:05
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The screw has a rounded top, so there isn't a place to cut a notch on the side. I was thinking of picking up a handheld screw remover at Home Depot for like $6. Is that only going to mal it worse?
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Feb 3, 2013 03:12
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Monkey Wrangler posted:The screw has a rounded top, so there isn't a place to cut a notch on the side. I was thinking of picking up a handheld screw remover at Home Depot for like $6. Is that only going to mal it worse? You can't cut a slot in it? Once the slot is cut you can use a punch on one side or the other to hammer it loose.
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Feb 3, 2013 03:16
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Get some well-insulated pliers to hold it while you cut a groove, otherwise just use them to unscrew it if you've got the room to. Put plastic down over everything you're not working with though, better safe than sorry when it comes to motor vehicle batteries that may or may not have dried acid on their outsides. You're not using the screw again anyways, so just do what you gotta do to get it out.
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Feb 3, 2013 04:41
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Does anyone here have one of the Harbor Freight foldable trailers? A co-worker of mine bought one and uses it to trailer his Buell so that he can ride it three times a year. He highly recommends it.
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Feb 3, 2013 07:05
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My fuuuuuuuck Phillips why do they always strip list. 1. Try a rubber band or chewing gum. It helps to grip if only partially stripped. Push down hard as hell and get a bite or totally wreck whats left of the head. 2. Glue a nut on. Use the nut. Or the glue gives. 3. Use easy outs. ( with penetrating oil, but most times this has already been applied by now) 4. Drill it out with a plan for dealing with the shot threads. Regardless of what works, replace with Allen head screw. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Feb 3, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 09:57
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Halo_4am posted:My fuuuuuuuck Phillips why do they always strip list. I'll have to try a few of these: I'm trying to get the petcock off my pinhole-leaking gas tank so I can put it onto a good gas tank (after a petcock rebuild), but one of the two bolts holding the petcock onto the tank is a Phillips with the head stripped. It's a hex-headed Phillips too, but not enough clearance around it to get a socket over, or to get a monkey wrench in there. It's kind of a perfect storm of annoyance to get out: I can't try the "glue a nut on the other end" because that end goes into the tank. I don't think I can hacksaw a slot into the top because the parts around it block a sawing motion. I'm reluctant to dremel or drill on it because it's on a gas tank which is still airing the fumes out and I don't want to be adding heat-friction to the very part where fuel/fumes exit. At this point all I can think to do is hose it down with WD-40 (not a lubricant, I know) or whatever rust-penentrator I can find, and then either come at it from above with flat-nosed pliers or something. That or maybe pound a Phillips into it from above until it gets a grip. Any other ideas that work in such a tight and theoretically flammable environment?  I've finally got a guy who wants to come and take this old rusted tank off my hands so I can put the new one on, and this one lovely bolt is what's preventing me getting a $60 petcock off of the tank.
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Feb 3, 2013 10:44
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I'd just try smashing a phillips head into it until it gets some grip. Keep it straight, smash away at it and don't try to twist it until its got a good grip.
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Feb 3, 2013 10:58
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That looks pretty much gone, and as you said it's a piss poor spot to try and get a nut on it or anything to grip it around the edges. It's recessed a bit so cutting into it is pretty much out as that typically involves a rotational cutting bit on your Dremel. First thing is to clean it up as best you can to stop all that crap on it from making your bit slide around it instead of bite. Then penetrating oil and an arbitrary amount of time to hope it sinks into the threads. Then maybe do as suggested above and pound a Philips driver into it a bit to get more bite surface. Once you have a bit of a cut for surface area you can combine that with the rubber band trick I suggested to maximize your odds and contact. From the pic I don't really give you good odds on that, but it's less permanent then the next step which would be the ez-out/screw extractor. There's not really any sparks or anything with low speed drill bits. You can get some cutting oil though if you want to keep the heat down to bare minimum. The biekwiki says ez-outs/screw extractors are dumb, and to use reverse threaded drill bits instead. That make sense I guess, but I have had 100% success (5 for 5) with these Grabit Screw Extractors and a $20 electric drill I typically use on electric outlets and stuff just for convenience. If you don't want to wait on shipping I've seen those extractors carried by my local Lowes. They're self centering and sized appropriately for step #1 which is drilling the hole for the extractor bit, and then flip around to actually extract. Firm pressure and low speed (which is the only speed my drill of choice for this has) and it shreds the screw up until it suddenly gets enough bite to grip and then bam, screw is removed. Where it can be cursed and whipped across the garage in a fit of anger and celebration. As the owner of exclusively used cars and bikes. I seriously loving hate Phillips screws, and make a point of replacing them every single time I come across them. :edit: If this fails your only remaining option is to drill it out. Which always involves trashing the threads and often involves a bit of collateral damage. Be prepared to maybe have to get a new $60 part thanks to a Phillips screw if it comes down to this. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Feb 3, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 15:49
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On the Ninja 250, that's a hex cap screw. It looks a little like a hex cap screw from your picture. Are you sure it isn't a hex cap screw?
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Feb 3, 2013 15:52
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Looks like a stripped Phillips to me but I guess that could be the photo. Typically hex/square/allen heads are not angled in like that and the shape is consistent into the head. :edit: Oh I am an idiot you meant the external edges. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Feb 3, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 15:54
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Safety Dance posted:On the Ninja 250, that's a hex cap screw. It looks a little like a hex cap screw from your picture. Are you sure it isn't a hex cap screw? It has a hexagonal head, but not enough clearance around it to get a socket over, but I'm pretty sure it's a stripped Phillips. Here's what its easily-removed partner looked like:  Interestingly enough, the exact bolt shown in http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2010/02/the-12-best-ways-to-remove-stripped-screws/ So far my current plan: - spray with penetrating oil (should I not use WD-40, but go buy proper Liquid Wrench or Kroil or something?). Should I try to de grease it to get gunk off it first, and/or after letting it sit with penetrating oil, should I de-grease the head for better purchase? - Maybe take the electric drill at very low power and drill slightly into the stripped hole. - Take a Phillips, maybe an oversized one, place it in the stripped and whack it with a hammer a few times, then put in a rubber band and go at it. Sound like a plan?
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Feb 3, 2013 16:34
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I'll have to try a few of these: I'm trying to get the petcock off my pinhole-leaking gas tank so I can put it onto a good gas tank (after a petcock rebuild), but one of the two bolts holding the petcock onto the tank is a Phillips with the head stripped. It's a hex-headed Phillips too, but not enough clearance around it to get a socket over, or to get a monkey wrench in there. That Phillips head looks more like a Robertson now, so try hammering a Robertson (square) bit into it and turning it. It's not like you can gently caress it worse at this point.
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Feb 3, 2013 17:01
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WD40 won't do dick as far as getting down into the threads in my experience. Drilling in will be the hard way to go... a center punch + hammer is easier. Now that I see the hex that was pointed out... forget the Phillips stuff and go that route. You only need to get it to break free you don't need to use a socket to wind it all the way out. An open end wrench and this problem is solved. There are loads of wrenches that have pivoting necks for just this sort of access problem. Flex: http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-flex-head-combo-wrench-set-68953.html Offset: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-metric-offset-box-wrench-set-32042.html Crowfoot: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-metric-wrench-set-94427.html Crowfoots go on the end of your existing drive and get into just this sort of spot like so: 
Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Feb 3, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 17:07
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You dont own an open ended wrench? Get it in there at kind of an angle and a gentle tap with a hammer on the end shoukd break it loose.
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Feb 3, 2013 18:06
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Remember that phillips is specifically designed to cam out and destroy the fastener head. It was designed before the advent of good, reliable, adjustable clutches on power tools, so the cam-out action is intentional to keep the power tool from breaking the head off of the fastener or twisting a then-possibly-metallurgically-bad tool bit. One of those hammer-actuated impact screwdrivers you can find at HF for $7 or so is a necessity when working on a motorcycle.
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Feb 3, 2013 18:31
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If it's from an EX500 isn't it probably a JIS screw in the first place?
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Feb 3, 2013 19:53
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I'm with z3n, an open ended wrench would do wonders here.
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Feb 3, 2013 20:41
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Anyone got any experience pulling the carbs on an '00-01 R1? I've been offered one for a criminally good price if I'll get it running and out of the owners way. The bike hasn't been run properly for maybe two years, although it's been dry stored and it was running great when it was stored. I'm anticipating a full carb tear down, new battery and an oil/filter change.
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Feb 3, 2013 21:07
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So...he wants you to do the work and get it running and then he'll sell it to you for a good price? That sounds fishy, like he might turn around and sell the now-running bike that you repaired for way more. Why won't he sell it to you as-is to be trailered away and fixed at your leisure?
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Feb 3, 2013 21:16
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It's my sister's husband, I have yet another new nephew on the way and he no longer has the means or time to ride away to track days 
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Feb 3, 2013 21:21
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ReelBigLizard posted:Anyone got any experience pulling the carbs on an '00-01 R1? I've been offered one for a criminally good price if I'll get it running and out of the owners way. The bike hasn't been run properly for maybe two years, although it's been dry stored and it was running great when it was stored. I'm anticipating a full carb tear down, new battery and an oil/filter change. It's easy. Don't take the drat carbs off the rack. I've got one.
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Feb 3, 2013 21:25
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So, take them out as one unit and leave them like that while I clean them? Any other hints/tips/gotchas? I went to the R1 Forums but the how to section mostly seems to concern fitting wet nitrous, a supercharger and bracing your swing arm...
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Feb 3, 2013 21:33
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I have heard that there's a guy here who may have a goddamned lovely salvage R1 that he would love to talk to you about.
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Feb 3, 2013 21:41
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It wont be any harder than other I4 carbs, you never need to split the bank to clean them, they come off as a set, then you can take the float bowls off and clean them. any diy guide will do. Buy a set of allen head bolts to replace the lovely screws that are on there now.
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Feb 3, 2013 21:44
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Came at it with a straight socket driver, not enough horizontal clearance. Came at it with a monkey wrench, too tall and would hit either the lower flange or the overhead blockage.  SaNChEzZ posted:I'm with z3n, an open ended wrench would do wonders here. Yep, that turned out to be the solution. I expected that a non-adjustable wrench would be slimmer in the head. Biked 3 blocks to the corner hardware store, which had none of the above cool recommended gear, but did have an individual 10mm for :5bux:.  Even the 10mm could just barely get in there, like it 10º of throw on it. Fortunately the bolt wasn't seized in the slightest (thread quite greasy actually), just stripped, so at the first pressure it gave right away. Still took a good four minutes though because of how little throw I could get, so after a few turns I just jammed a finger there and twisted it bit by bit. I'm about positive that this piece was really meant to be removed by Phillips, and just happened to have a hexagonal flange, as I can't imagine any tool would be particularly optimal for this. I got out of this without much tool investment, but it was a good reminder to have proper gear on hand. I've been getting by with a monkey-wrench, but a fixed socket/open metric wrench set is cheap and would be useful, ditto some Kroil and an impact screwdriver. might look into getting a set of crow's feet as well. At this point the majority of my decent tools are metric... Thanks for the feedback, and I have a guy off Craigslist fixing to come get the old tank tonight or tomorrow. Petcock rebuild parts coming in the mail, going to clean out, replace seals, etc. on gas cap and petcock, get them installed on the new tank. After that, all I need to do is get a fresh battery (going sealed this time), fresh filters, clean the carbs, fluids, and I should at least have it up and running. After that it'll be replacing the forks and seals, chains and sprockets, and everything after that is just streetfightering and cosmetics. Bike was like $1100, and it'll probably be at least $350 in parts and $150 in labour (for sprockets, forks, valves that I don't have the settup to do on the curbside) to get it running, but I figure the initial purchase is sunk cost, and once I fix some basic DSPO issues it should be a decent bike with only 16k miles on it.
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Feb 3, 2013 22:02
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Thanks for the feedback, and I have a guy off Craigslist fixing to come get the old tank tonight or tomorrow. Petcock rebuild parts coming in the mail, going to clean out, replace seals, etc. on gas cap and petcock, get them installed on the new tank. After that, all I need to do is get a fresh battery (going sealed this time), fresh filters, clean the carbs, fluids, and I should at least have it up and running. After that it'll be replacing the forks and seals, chains and sprockets, and everything after that is just streetfightering and cosmetics. Bike was like $1100, and it'll probably be at least $350 in parts and $150 in labour (for sprockets, forks, valves that I don't have the settup to do on the curbside) to get it running, but I figure the initial purchase is sunk cost, and once I fix some basic DSPO issues it should be a decent bike with only 16k miles on it. If you're working on bikes you should have a decent metric socket set, bonus if it has hex and philips head drivers too, a few 8, 10, 12, 13 and 14 mm spanners in various configurations. and a set of metric allen keys. Adjustable spanners should not enter into the equation.
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Feb 3, 2013 22:44
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I put a crescent wrench in the toolbag on my motorcycle for roadside repair, along with a small pair of needlenose vice grips and a spark plug and hex-ended spark plug socket (for use with the crescent wrench). That is the only time
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Feb 3, 2013 22:50
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 00:29 |
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As a fellow owner of exclusively older Japanese bikes, I'm going to chime in and say get a set of the Grabbits or craftsman ez-outs, and a set of metal-oriented drills or step drills. They've come in enormously handy for me when dealing with the bottom-barrel pot metal screws the UJMs all have. Also, a set of Robogrip pliers for when nut heads deform and strip inside your wrenches. I'd argue with the "no adjustable wrenches," they're handy to keep around for things like odd-sized or grossly-oversized nuts that were added specifically to make you buy expensive manufacturer's tools. Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Feb 3, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 23:03
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