|
Mister Duck posted:I took out the leads for the powerlet stuff and replaced the old screws. I think I will do a quick test ride tomorrow for an hour or so, mixed highway and local. If I don't strand myself I guess I at least know to look at the leads and screws. Yeah, I had those symptoms on mine, drove the tachometer nuts! A mechanic was able to fix it at the roadside, luckily. It was just a case of the little circle that screws on top of the battery having a loose connection to the actual lead. I don't know if it's a solder or a clip, I assume it's a clip on mine because a little shoving sorted it. I would make sure it's sorted, or at least that you have easy access to it at the roadside because it can just kill all electrical power if it gets too loose, which is what happened to me when I ignored it on my ride out with it. e: You can see what I'm on about here, the top part of the cable and the connection I'm referring to at the black bit. 
Wootcannon fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Mar 10, 2013 |
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 05:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 12:07 |
|
|
Wootcannon posted:How do you go about practicing your leaning into turns/countersteering, as far as I can tell I'm still doing it without thinking about it but not nearly giving it enough lean, slowing to 40 for 60mph turns and the like. Slow in and fast out is fair enough, but I think I've taken it too far. Any suggestions? I've done the standard thing of taking a corner too fast and coming out after thinking I was dragging knee but realistically I was at like 20 degrees, and that's probably not the best way to train. Aim for later apexes. ed: and be smooth. Don't hang off but I would shift your weight over a bit. I only move an rear end cheek over but I find it helps me grip the bike better with my legs, and it also makes weighting the pegs easier. nsaP fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Mar 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 08:26
|
|
|
Seriously. The hanging off the side of the bike like you see in race pictures doesn't become a stable position until you get quick, until then it's awkward and unsettles the bike. Don't reach for the knee drag, it's a lot further over than you think also. Also, what kind of chain wax/lube is everyone using? I want something that doesn't fling all over - I see a lot of racers that use this stuff that is white but I'm not sure what it is.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 08:49
|
|
|
I've been using this stuff; http://www.amazon.co.uk/Muc-Off-949-Muc-off-Chain/dp/B001AO0PQ4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1362906675&sr=8-7 It seems to leave a whitish residue on my drive when it dries and I've not noticed it flinging a lot about. Though the integrated chain guard and rear hugger I've got probably catches a lot I don't see so YMMV.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 10:17
|
|
|
Wootcannon posted:Yeah, I had those symptoms on mine, drove the tachometer nuts! A mechanic was able to fix it at the roadside, luckily. It was just a case of the little circle that screws on top of the battery having a loose connection to the actual lead. I don't know if it's a solder or a clip, I assume it's a clip on mine because a little shoving sorted it. I would make sure it's sorted, or at least that you have easy access to it at the roadside because it can just kill all electrical power if it gets too loose, which is what happened to me when I ignored it on my ride out with it. Yeah that's exactly what I have, the loop connector. I'll try to get it more secure, maybe get a longer screw and put a nut on above the loop to really tighten it down. Not sure why it's such a pain in the rear end just to add another lead onto the drat thing. Thanks for the info though, I appreciate it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 12:17
|
|
|
Wootcannon posted:e: You can see what I'm on about here, the top part of the cable and the connection I'm referring to at the black bit. If it helps, the tips are called lugs and they're crimped onto the wire. Sometimes the crimp isn't tight enough, was too tight, works itself loose, has too little wire in the crimp, or when it was made the insulation wasn't cut back far enough and got caught in the crimp. Ultra fancy ones will be soldered but I doubt you'll ever see that on a bike unless you make the cables yourself. token Crimpin' ain't easy joke Snowdens Secret fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Mar 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 13:45
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:I just tuck the bike under me in turns and keep my torso kind of upright. If you aren't booking it at ludicrous speeds through corners, body position won't matter as much. People on sport tourers go 20 faster than me around corners barely moving their bodies at all and after that I realized I was overthinking everything You mean keep your torso upright in relation to the motorcycle? Or Do you mean keep your torso upright to the world and let your bike lean under you? If it's the latter that's called crossed up and is a bad habit to get into. When you are doing that you are leaning the bike over farther than you need to, and decreasing the amount of evasive maneuvers you can make. Drop your inside elbow a little on corners. This will help keep your arms loose on the bars and brings your torso down lower and to the inside so your weight is helping rather than it having to corner fighting against you.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 15:53
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Seriously. The hanging off the side of the bike like you see in race pictures doesn't become a stable position until you get quick, until then it's awkward and unsettles the bike. Don't reach for the knee drag, it's a lot further over than you think also. The racers are probably using white lithium grease. My bike came from the factory with that on the chain. It will stick to your chain like glue. I personally wipe the chain with 90w gear oil after cleaning with kerosene.
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 20:55
|
|
|
obso posted:You mean keep your torso upright in relation to the motorcycle? Or Do you mean keep your torso upright to the world and let your bike lean under you? If it's the latter that's called crossed up and is a bad habit to get into. When you are doing that you are leaning the bike over farther than you need to, and decreasing the amount of evasive maneuvers you can make. Relation to the motorcycle. I only do the latter in U-turns. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 21:26
|
|
|
I added back in the heated gear leads today with better fitting screws and a nut to sort of clamp it all down. Took a good hour or side ride and everything seemed good. I'll probably test with the heated stuff on next week, but I think this is probably the end of the issues since the numbers are all good. Thanks for the help!
|
|
#
?
Mar 10, 2013 21:30
|
|
|
Wootcannon posted:How do you go about practicing your leaning into turns/countersteering, as far as I can tell I'm still doing it without thinking about it but not nearly giving it enough lean, slowing to 40 for 60mph turns and the like. Slow in and fast out is fair enough, but I think I've taken it too far. Any suggestions? I've done the standard thing of taking a corner too fast and coming out after thinking I was dragging knee but realistically I was at like 20 degrees, and that's probably not the best way to train. Have you checked out "A twist of the wrist" yet? Do it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 00:42
|
|
|
Been able to get most of the basic-level bits cleaned up on my Ninja 500, and tackling a twin carburetor for the first time ever (did a 1-cylinder moped once). Got it out just fine, going to try the "boil in lemon juice" trick for the carb, and then rinse with baking-soda water to neutralise to avoid undue acid etching. Might just do the brass bit if I'm being careful and then use spray for the main body. As I'm starting to put parts back onto the bike (took off lovely aftermarket can, but on stock mufflers), I realise I'm pretty unclear as to when I use LocTite, and when to use anti-seize. Are they pretty much opposite things, or can you use both on the same bolt without them canceling each other out? Do I just figure out for Bolt X whether I'm 50%+ likely to want to remove it again someday, or what's the decision process? I just don't want to Loctite in a bolt I need to remove for occasional service, but nor do I want to anti-seize something only to have it slickly unscrew itself and going flying off the bike. How to figure out which to use when?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 03:47
|
|
|
 Well, I had my first drop at like .5 mph while turning. Mazel tov! The left front blinker took all the damage. Thankfully the sumbitch didn't take the front fairing with it. The lightbulb is fine, the casing's a little cracked, but it's not working (and the back one is blinking twice as fast). Is there a way to fix it myself, or should I just grab a new one off ebay? I don't actually know what's wrong with it since all the cords and the bulb are fine. Here's some pics:    I am also loving awful at downshifting. Someone pretend I'm a 5 year old and tell me how to rev match.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 04:26
|
|
|
Just let the clutch out slower and worry about rev matching later. ed: by "let the clutch out slower" I mean let it out smoothly and normally to the friction zone then leave it there a bit while the rear wheel spins up the motor, then let it out all the way. nsaP fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Mar 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 04:28
|
|
|
Oh good! I was reading about that and felt pretty overwhelmed, cause it seems I'm going slow with the clutch already. I'm probably not, cause there's so many other things to keep track of when you're a newbie.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 04:38
|
|
|
thylacine posted:Have you checked out "A twist of the wrist" yet? Do it. This may be the best advice so far. TapTheForwardAssist posted:Been able to get most of the basic-level bits cleaned up on my Ninja 500, and tackling a twin carburetor for the first time ever (did a 1-cylinder moped once). Got it out just fine, going to try the "boil in lemon juice" trick for the carb, and then rinse with baking-soda water to neutralise to avoid undue acid etching. Might just do the brass bit if I'm being careful and then use spray for the main body. The long hard way of fixing carbs is to strip them all the way. I recommend highly just cleaning the bits that need cleaning, and getting the whole job done in an hour, versus several hours. What makes you think you need to completely gut the carbs anyway? As for locktite versus anti-seize. From the factory, most bolts and fasteners have neither on them. Manuals tell you where it's absolutely necessary. If there's a bolt that if it fell out you'd be in deep, you might consider the non permanent loctite. Anti seize is for anything you really want to get apart again. Exhaust bolts, axle bolts that have some other sort of locking mechanism.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 04:42
|
|
|
M42 posted:The lightbulb is fine, the casing's a little cracked, but it's not working (and the back one is blinking twice as fast). Is there a way to fix it myself, or should I just grab a new one off ebay? I don't actually know what's wrong with it since all the cords and the bulb are fine. Here's some pics: If it's blinking twice as fast and doesn't work, it means the electrical connection through the bulb is broken somehow (the blink rate depends on the overall circuit resistance, which will change when there's only one bulb connected). Look carefully inside the bulb and make sure the filament isn't broken -- that can happen just from a sharp impact even if the glass doesn't break. Then swap the non-working bulb into the working side to check it. If the bulb is good, follow the electrical line from the socket and make sure there are no shorts or broken/disconnected wires along the way. You can reattach/repair the casing problems with a good epoxy like JB-weld if you're not too concerned about appearance. Don't bother revmatching yet; instead, work on being faster and cleaner with your shifts and the downshifts will be less jerky. The more time you spend clutched in and shifting down, the more time the engine has to decelerate towards idle, meaning that the difference between input and output speed (and thus jerkiness) is greater. Get your boot on top of the shifter and put very light force on it, just enough to take up any slack in the mechanism. Then simultaneously roll the throttle closed, pull in the clutch and push down on the shifter. As soon as the clutch is in far enough to disengage (which should be like 1/5 of the way through its travel or something) your foot will slide down and complete the shift. Let the clutch back in and throttle up again near the end of the travel. I'm not a pro rider or anything but in my case the three actions (push down, pull in, roll off; let up, let out, roll on) all happen basically simultaneously. But really, just practice it and all the motions will become natural. It'll take a couple of weeks to a month of regular riding to become really automatic but you'll get the hang of it. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Mar 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 05:04
|
|
|
M42, not sure if this contributed to your down, but especially as a beginner you want to be in the gear you want for the turn a good ways before you actually start turning. This way even if you botch the shift the bike has time to re-settle before you start changing direction. Downshift into gear, smoothly apply brake as needed, be off the brake -before- the turn, enter the turn, be applying a little throttle through the whole turn to maintain speed and keep the back end steady. Adding a bit more throttle at the exit can help stand the bike up. Overall, though, the key is smooth, smooth, smooth. Mighta saved that signal if you had frame sliders
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 05:29
|
|
|
Sagebrush, that was really helpful, thanks! I think the drop was because I panic braked cause I was getting a little too close to a parked car while turning. The roads on the west coast are so much more domed than the northeast, it's weird. Made me pick up more speed than I expected. Anyway, my model of ninja has no place to really mount a slider--I wanted them, but the internet tells me it's generally a bad idea for that bike. You have to drill through the fairing to do it, and if the slider bends when it hits the ground it'll crack the fairing anyway. Lights are cheaper. M42 fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Mar 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 06:05
|
|
|
nsap's reply is pretty spot on. For now ignore anything like rev matching on down shifts and clutchless upshifts and just concentrate on being as smooth as possible. Something to keep in mind that helped me when first starting out is to slip the clutch a little in corners to keep everything nice and smooth. It helps with jerky throttle inputs too. If no-one else has recommended it to you yet I really, really recommend reading David L. Hough's Proficient Motorcycling. It's all about surviving riding on the road and has been invaluable to me. Where other books are concentrating on how to go quick this concentrates on how to ride to come home in one piece.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 14:34
|
|
|
On a recent trip to Seattle, I noticed people have a weird way of covering their motorcycles there. On the front wheel, the covers were frequently tucked under the front fender or otherwise on top of the front wheel. In other words, much of the front wheel was always exposed. The rest of the bike was covered normally. When I cover mine, I bring the cover down over everything, all the way over the front of the front wheel. I think most ones I've seen around here (Pittsburgh) are the same way. Is there some advantage to covering it that way? Or is it no better or worse, but just happened to propagate as part of motorbike culture in Seattle? It's also possible that by chance I happened to see like 12 strangely covered motorcycles (and it was all 12 of the ones I saw). But it seemed too consistent to be a random thing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 17:16
|
|
|
So my gear shift foot lever (probably not the right term for it) worked itself completely loose and I'm at a loss as to what went wrong. It's an '85 Rebel 250. I took a video of what's going on with it to hopefully get some help diagnosing the problem (sorry about my nasally voice). Essentially, if I push down on it with my foot, it will rotate a full 45 degrees down so that it's perpendicular to the ground without ever clicking. It would do the same shifting up if the lever didn't make contact with the crankcase before that. I'm thinking it might be the gear shift spindle return spring, but I'm really not too sure of what I'm doing and don't want to open the crank case unnecessarily. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrbZZaZTfNk Anyone have any ideas of what I should check?
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 19:58
|
|
|
LooksLikeABabyRat posted:So my gear shift foot lever (probably not the right term for it) worked itself completely loose and I'm at a loss as to what went wrong. It's an '85 Rebel 250. I took a video of what's going on with it to hopefully get some help diagnosing the problem (sorry about my nasally voice). Essentially, if I push down on it with my foot, it will rotate a full 45 degrees down so that it's perpendicular to the ground without ever clicking. It would do the same shifting up if the lever didn't make contact with the crankcase before that. I'm thinking it might be the gear shift spindle return spring, but I'm really not too sure of what I'm doing and don't want to open the crank case unnecessarily. that thing you're pointing at is one end of a linkage, try to see whats at the other end, it may have come off the splined shaft that actually changes the gear here is an exploded diagram its probably come unscrewed at part 3/4 http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cmx250cd-rebel-250-ltd-usa_model1054/partslist/F++19.html#results echomadman fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Mar 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 20:07
|
|
|
Sweet, I'll look into that when I get home and post results.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 20:32
|
|
|
LA Times has a poll on lane splitting: http://www.latimes.com/business/autos/la-fi-mo-autos-lanesplitting-controversy-safety-guidelines-from-the-chp-20130306,0,561731.story Let's class the place up, Goon Squad ROLL OUT!!
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 20:38
|
|
|
TapTheForwardAssist posted:As I'm starting to put parts back onto the bike (took off lovely aftermarket can, but on stock mufflers), I realise I'm pretty unclear as to when I use LocTite, and when to use anti-seize. Are they pretty much opposite things, or can you use both on the same bolt without them canceling each other out? Do I just figure out for Bolt X whether I'm 50%+ likely to want to remove it again someday, or what's the decision process? I just don't want to Loctite in a bolt I need to remove for occasional service, but nor do I want to anti-seize something only to have it slickly unscrew itself and going flying off the bike. How to figure out which to use when? Maintenance manual should list them. For my bike its: anti-seize: axles front & rear, spark plugs (haven't bothered), lever pivot bolts (haven't bothered) red loctite: battery tray, brake pedal, calipers, chin fairing, footpegs, fork clamps, fenders, handlebar clamps (haven't bothered), muffler, shifter linkage (had this vibrate off), subframe to main frame, swing arm, etc. anything structural, safety related Note that my previous bike didn't really prescribe loctite for anything. Also I bought blue loctite instead of red, drat.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 21:16
|
|
|
High Protein posted:Maintenance manual should list them. For my bike its: I like to use anti-seize on the bolts for the intake boots and the exhaust. Both screw right into the aluminum head, and can be a PITA to extract if they snap.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 22:02
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:I like to use anti-seize on the bolts for the intake boots and the exhaust. Both screw right into the aluminum head, and can be a PITA to extract if they snap. Those sound like good spots yeah, though my intake boot bolts are only spark plug tight (hand tight + a quarter turn) so I'm not that worried.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 22:10
|
|
|
High Protein posted:Those sound like good spots yeah, though my intake boot bolts are only spark plug tight (hand tight + a quarter turn) so I'm not that worried. Pretty sure that is about the same torque for my bike, but after needing to impact drive those fuckers out to change the o-rings . . . anti-seize.
|
|
#
?
Mar 11, 2013 22:22
|
|
|
Ponies ate my Bagel posted:LA Times has a poll on lane splitting: http://www.latimes.com/business/autos/la-fi-mo-autos-lanesplitting-controversy-safety-guidelines-from-the-chp-20130306,0,561731.story Looks as if 37% of California drivers are whiny, car-locked anti-funhavers
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 01:55
|
|
|
alnilam posted:On a recent trip to Seattle, I noticed people have a weird way of covering their motorcycles there. On the front wheel, the covers were frequently tucked under the front fender or otherwise on top of the front wheel. In other words, much of the front wheel was always exposed. The rest of the bike was covered normally. I live in Seattle currently and most motorcycles I have seen with covers are fully covered.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 01:59
|
|
|
Huh, turns out the footpeg snapped entirely. I guess I missed it because I was stressed out about being late for work...
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 02:26
|
|
|
double edit: nevermind, that was a dumb question
AncientTV fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Mar 12, 2013 |
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 15:16
|
|
|
Rabid Snake posted:I live in Seattle currently and most motorcycles I have seen with covers are fully covered. Huh. Must have been weird chance. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 15:26
|
|
|
I posted this in the SV650 thread as well because that's what I ride, but figured this might get more exposure here: So tires. I went to go ride this weekend when it was nice out in my area (NE Ohio) and noticed just the slightest bit of cords beginning to peek through my rear tire. I want to get back on the bike as fast as possible, and I want to know what the honest opinion of Shinko tires are for this bike. I honestly don't do a lot of hard riding or pushing anything, mostly backroad cruising to/from work etc. Haven't done a ton of recreational riding with no destination in mind, etc but will likely do some this summer with my  goon friend Manawski on his CBR250R. High speeds aren't really going to be much of an issue there. The price point is great, but if they're absolute garbage and dangerous, obviously I'll stay away. Anyone had any experience with them?
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 18:34
|
|
|
RuPaul Levesque posted:I posted this in the SV650 thread as well because that's what I ride, but figured this might get more exposure here: I've had several sets of Shinkos on my SV and never had a problem. They were surprisingly good tires for typical street and even some aggressive riding. If had to go back to pinching pennies I'd have no qualms about buying them again.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 22:13
|
|
|
I need to make my bike go faster which means stickers/decals. Where's a good place to find non-motorcycle manu/gear ones?
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 22:41
|
|
|
Motorcycle superstore has a bunch. Sometimes you can just call up various stores / vendors and ask them to send you some. What exactly are you looking for? Sparkly flame stickers? If you're just looking for random stickers like EBC, Amsoil, etc you can go to a local shop and ask them for a handful of random poo poo. My local one usually has a bunch laying around that they'll give out if you ask.
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 22:46
|
|
|
I rode to Wall Drug and got a Wall Drug sticker, they're free and coffee's a dime.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 23:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 12:07 |
|
|
MooseNoose posted:I've had several sets of Shinkos on my SV and never had a problem. They were surprisingly good tires for typical street and even some aggressive riding. If had to go back to pinching pennies I'd have no qualms about buying them again. Thanks! I'm not really an aggressive rider at all, like I said mostly commute to/from work. I think that there's a heavy skew toward performance-oriented riding on this board, so I was expecting nothing but comments about how bad they ride from people who ride supersports or whatever. In the SV650 thread I've gotten a bit of that from this question, so I guess I'm still undecided.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2013 23:33
|
|