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You know you want to tow it home.  I've run into a troubling situation involving my truck not starting (video), so now I'm just stumbling around with that Charlie Brown Christmas sad waltz in my head. Gas and spark are fine, but it's not even attempting to fire. Despite proper flow from the fuel supply, the rail never seems to be adequately pressurized - I don't have a suitable gauge, but the Schrader valve on the rail never produces anything aside from a dribbled drop or two of gas. Unless the new FPR just cracks open at 2psi, I'm at a loss. The injectors are Volvo 850 units, reman/balanced with equivalent specs to OE despite being Bosch. Unless there's a wiring fault or a bad crank position sensor (also new; I should've stuck with the old one), they must be working properly. Time to check for current across each of the injector pigtails, I suppose. And maybe pull a couple to see if they're actually productive. Or find my leaky OE injectors. And bust out the multimeter to check that CPS...
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Oct 19, 2013 06:31
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I thought that was perfectly normal RENIX cranking time  If you have spark, your CPS is working. Are you sure the distributor is timed right? A common mistake is to put it in 180 degrees from where it should be, i.e. it ends up at #1 TDC exhaust stroke instead of #1 TDC compression stroke. A tooth or two off is an easy mistake to make as well since it's driven by a helical gear, so it rotates slightly as you mesh the gears. Also, your concerns about the fuel supply sound like you are on track to me. Make sure your fuel pressure is good. Maybe try priming it a few times (key on, wait for pump to stop, key off, key on, repeat...) and maybe try starting it in flood clear mode with the pedal all the way to the floor? Really though I suspect the distributor is timed wrong or the fuel pressure is at fault, you would at least get a cough out of it otherwise.
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Oct 19, 2013 12:42
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kastein posted:If you have spark, your CPS is working. I'm not absolutely certain that the ignition is timed right if only because that was done months ago. I had a second set of eyes watching, though the helical cut left me a degree or so off from what I remember. It's certainly one of the easier things to check, though. If I'm 180deg out, we'll know tomorrow. I did check plug wires, though! I'll grab a gauge suitable for the fuel rail and check with the FPR under vacuum and disconnected. It definitely primes quite nicely on key-on. Seem to recall that the Renix ECU cuts fuel injection after a certain crank cycle, and doesn't resume until RPMs reach 400... I wonder if it's just going into flood clear mode itself. There's only a very faint fuel smell with a plug pulled (after probably 30sec total of cranking) and the plugs don't smell wet, so I doubt much of anything is getting through the injectors for whatever reason. gotta bust this out again  
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Oct 19, 2013 16:56
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Made some progress. Had a friend hold the fuel rail Schrader valve open while we primed the system, which fully purged the air pocket from the rail. Injectors are definitely not functioning, though the #1 pigtail showed activity when cranking. (The pulse width is too narrow for a cheap HF multimeter to keep up - all I know is it bounces around.) I think I've narrowed it down to a few possibilities: 1. Injectors aren't correct for this ECU. I'll need to check into the details (Bosch units from an 850 Turbo, complete with balance/spec sheet), but the friend I bought them from intended to use them in his '90 before dropping it for a '91... everything should match up with the Bendix units within a fraction of a percent, according to what I saw a year or so ago, but it's worth a look. 2. Common ground for the injectors is bad. This will require a bit of diagram reading and probing, and I hated EE401 so hopefully this isn't realistic. 3. ECU issue. I doubt this is the case, but there's a cause for concern - after grounding the battery to the block, I second-guessed myself a few days ago when we noticed that the Renix electrical manual shows it grounded it to the starter (diagram and text, both). This just resulted in a starter click and really hot ground wire after a split-second attempt and cranking, so evidently the starter doesn't properly ground through the block. I again wired the ground directly to the block with no apparent ill effects, but I can't help but wonder if I spiked the ECU. Good news is that I left my Mopar-flashed TSB ECU out in favor of the '90 one for the time being, so I have a spare. First step is dropping in the old Bendix injectors with fresh O-rings tomorrow. They may leak, but if the engine shows at least some sign of life, that's all I need to know the Bosch units aren't correct.
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Oct 20, 2013 23:48
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Compare the resistances of the factory and currently installed injectors, if the ones you have in there are significantly lower resistance than the originals, they may be too low impedance for the ECU to drive properly.
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Oct 21, 2013 01:39
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You can also apply 12V to the injectors and see if they "click!' for you Apply momentarily only. I had an FC RX-7 with the injectors so gummed up from sitting that they simply wouldn't move when power was applied. A little carb cleaner fixed that right up.
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Oct 22, 2013 00:47
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Won't have a chance to put a pressure gauge on the rail until tomorrow (everything else checks out), but what smells sweet, is approximately 23% denser than 10W30, and shouldn't be leaking from your drain plug?  Drove home from Ohio to discover that the plug leaked a little under a quart of Rotella onto the garage floor over the past three days. Not only that, but the puddle contained a circle of coolant/water that may or may not be related. I replaced the plug & washer that came in the new Spectra pan (lowest point in the system, etc), letting a couple cups of oil drain into a clean container, only to discover that a few drops of coolant pooled in the periphery. Unless the leak is coming from somewhere else and I didn't clean out the drain pan sufficiently, fueling (and a new drain pan with a curved sealing surface) is the least of this truck's concerns. The #11 head bolt would leak down the other way from what I can tell, the block was Magnafluxed (prior to assembly in June 2012, granted), and the head gasket is a new Fel-Pro unit that was incrementally torqued down under new ARP bolts (in January). I'll put an easily-monitored glass cup under the leakpath tomorrow to see if coolant shows up in that. I don't even know anymore. 
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Oct 30, 2013 03:07
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Just got a return shipping label for the one-year-warranty component I ordered October 30, 2012. Hoping the replacement pan won't accommodate a 0.020" feeler gage under one side of the the drain washer. I've never attempted to pull the oil pan off a 2WD XJ, so I'm not sure if the lack of a diff will ease this process at all or still be a massive pain in the rear end. Can't imagine that the cooling system was pressurized significantly when cranking at ~400RPM, so I'm assuming a cracked head wouldn't be pushing coolant into the atmospheric oil galley above it. Poor head gasket seal (unlikely) and cracked core (seriously though, what) seem to be be the most likely culprits if indeed it's mixing. Maybe I'll pressurize it with the pan off and see if coolant drains down. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Going to Atlanta Motorsports Park with the office ChumpCar team this weekend instead of touching this godforsaken truck. Tried to replace the radiator on my XJ until I realized that the trans cooler feed is fretted against the steering box and weeping, so time to wrap it up for the night. 
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Oct 31, 2013 01:43
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Ahhh what a crazy problem. No way it's fuel from a misbehaving injector that soaked past the rings? I dropped the 4 cyl oil pan in my 2wd Comanche without much issue, hopefully the six is similar.
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Oct 31, 2013 05:30
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They are a bastard to get finagled out from between the oil pump pickup and the axle but it can usually be done.
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Oct 31, 2013 06:21
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Comanche-Race-Truck-/131039137808
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Nov 5, 2013 14:39
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...and now I know what I need to do with my 2-door Cherokee. That is neat. I knew they existed, but hadn't really seen any really good pictures. edit: is that a 2.5L in there? edit 2: Yup. Duh - right there in the auction description. I always assumed they were 4.0L. How about that. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Nov 6, 2013 |
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Nov 6, 2013 00:55
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I wish I had money for that. I've wanted an Archer Brothers Comanche for years. Fiberglass monoleaf rear spring. Bent front axle under a massive press to gain camber up front. Unfh.
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Nov 6, 2013 21:34
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th vwls hv scpd posted:I wish I had money for that. I've wanted an Archer Brothers Comanche for years. Fiberglass monoleaf rear spring. Bent front axle under a massive press to gain camber up front. Unfh. The Cherokee XJR team cut a wedge out of their front axle and rewelded it for negative camber.
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Nov 6, 2013 21:52
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Darchangel posted:The Cherokee XJR team cut a wedge out of their front axle and rewelded it for negative camber. I got my old front axle from a friend who is known for flying his jeeps regularly and it came with plenty of camber. Something like 4 degrees per side, in fact. Probably because of this stunt:  I recommend the cut and weld method, balljoint alignment wasn't the best on mine until I bent it back with a 4 pound hammer and a couple beers.
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Nov 7, 2013 00:10
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Darchangel posted:The Cherokee XJR team cut a wedge out of their front axle and rewelded it for negative camber. Team Border Patrol from Houston cut theirs I believe. I have a friend on the team and I can't remember what he told me they did right now.
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Nov 7, 2013 05:56
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I haven't touched the truck since October, but I did finally throw a gauge on the fuel rail and got the wonderful reading of 0psi. With no leaks, good fuel flow, and proper routing, this narrows it down to the FPR or the fuel pump. FPR is easy enough to replace again just in case, but now I need to determine how to make a Comanche fuel pump with a functional sender from a Cherokee unit. Looks like Carter and Denso both use Walbro pumps on this application, so I'll probably go that route. One problem at a time, one step at a time
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Dec 8, 2013 23:34
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Awesome, glad it's something simple. In my own Comanche news.....I may actually be able to make progress on it before too much longer. We are under contract on a new property. It has 3 times the house we currently have, 9 acres, a nice pond....and this 40x60 shop! Sorry for the crap picture, had to grab it off the listing. Has 2 14' roll up doors, and office space with climate control and a bathroom. I am beyond excited to get this project rolling!
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Dec 22, 2013 21:18
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angryrobots posted:Awesome, glad it's something simple. I want something like this. I'd turn the office into an apartment and just live there.
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Dec 22, 2013 23:18
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Well, I'm married, so.....that will probably happen sometimes too.
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Dec 22, 2013 23:41
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angryrobots posted:Awesome, glad it's something simple. Dang, that sounds perfect.
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Dec 24, 2013 22:15
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Somebody buy this Embarrassingly simple fix on the fuel issue! Was prepared to swap in a fresh fuel pump when I checked the O-rings on the new FPR installed last summer. It only had one, sealing against the periphery, and not the internal ring that prevents unrestricted drainback. Installed the O-ring from another FPR, jumped pins D5 and D6, and instantly had rail pressure. No more full-return system! Got to swap out the new rings, though, as I think they're either swollen or out of spec. That said, it's still not starting. Noid lights on the injector pigtails and inductive clamps on the spark plugs indicate that all is continuous, so with fuel, air, and spark confirmed, I have a new list of things to check:
angryrobots posted:Awesome, glad it's something simple. I've been searching in/around Asheville for a house with a three-car garage or equivalent shop to no avail. Probably going to have to bite the bullet and build something myself after a couple years (though the_spyder's project updates have me feeling a little underqualified).
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Jan 6, 2014 07:17
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MiniFoo posted:Of course, the easiest way to replace U-joints is to buy an entirely new driveshaft! damnit Mazda I have a spare large-flange drive shaft with good looking/feeling ujoints from my '85 RX7. I am swapping my '85 peg leg rear end with a '81 limited slip and need to use a matching small-flange shaft. If you need one I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping, otherwise I was going to put it up for $100 locally.
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Jan 6, 2014 23:39
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 IT RUNSAdjusted TPS (it was ~2% high at idle, so no issues there) and pulled the distributor to check timing - didn't appear to be off that I could tell, but after reinstalling, it fired to life on the second revolution. Dunno. Saturday is supposed to be seventy degrees warmer than earlier this week, so I'll see if I can get everything broken in outside in the sun. Bled the MC with a couple lines routed into the reservoir, but the rest of the system still needs to be bled before it's roadworthy. Then to get it inspected and transfer the AMC6 plates from my XJ, but that's getting ahead of things...
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Jan 9, 2014 04:25
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That's friggin awesome. Had to be something simple.
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Jan 9, 2014 18:19
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Broke in the cam (hopefully) after sundown tonight and encountered some questions. 1. Header (316SS) uniformly glows a dull red (ports to collector) when varying RPM between 2000-2500 or so. We only noticed this once after shutting off spotlights after about five minutes of runtime, so I killed the engine. Checked static timing (though actual timing isn't really adjustable on these from what I gather - the ECU does its own magic) and swapped out the original Renix injectors for freshly-balanced Bosch units from a Volvo 850 Turbo. Glow appeared to be less pronounced at this point (nothing visible if under ~2000RPM for a few seconds) and I ran it for another 20 minutes, but I'd really like to know what kind of AFR it's producing. No cat yet, so I don't have the benefit of checking temps on that - I'd expect considerable glow there if rich. O2 sensor is new (unproven), and since the header appears to be a uniform temp across all six ports, I'm thinking this may just be normal for a stainless header under no-load conditions. Thoughts? 2. Temps rise to ~215-220F after ten minutes or so of the above conditions. That said, I don't know how effective the electric fan is when the engine isn't idling, and I probably should've installed a new clutch on the mechanical fan. Again, I don't know whether or not this is typical behavior given the circumstances - just have to drive it on the street and see how it behaves. Thermostat opens and cooling system appears to have bled out nicely. (Radiator doesn't have a sensor bung for the electric fan, so I just jumped the harness to kick it on. Fffgently caress, how did I not notice this.) 3. There's definitely an audible lifter clatter once hot, though oil pressure is good. It's unnerving, but as before, I don't typically sit in my 4.0 Jeeps at highway RPM when parked in the driveway with the hood up, so I'm trying not to overanalyse this until it proves to be sustained and pronounced under "normal" conditions. Perhaps it'll go away with engine time or perhaps it's just a 4.0. My concern is that the OE-length pushrods may be too long, though my machinist pointed out that head & block were decked maybe ten thou total for cleanup. 4. Front galley freeze plug has begun to weep very rapidly. I have a feeling that I'll have to run some block sealant through the lovely all-new cooling system, as pulling the engine to replace the plug isn't on the agenda. JB Weld (or my current "solution", ultra copper RTV) isn't up for the task, I'd say. That said, it ran very nicely with only a couple hiccups - need to adjust idle stop on the throttle body, and the thermostat housing gasket apparently didn't seat. Oil on the dipstick looks perfect and smells gas-free, though drat does CompCams ZDDP additive ever smell funky. I'm on ChumpCar junkyard duty tomorrow (need a Kia Sportage R&P for an '85 RX7 GSL-SE), but hopefully the truck can move under its own power with fresh oil on Monday.
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Jan 12, 2014 07:20
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4.0s make noise, worry when it makes less.
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Jan 12, 2014 08:47
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Pull the manifolds to do the galley plug instead of the engine, it will cost you a ten dollar gasket and a few hours instead of all day. The only ones that need the engine pulled are on the back of the block, really. I very rarely get that thermostat gasket to seal without doing it twice or using gasket shellac. First time I did one, it leaked in one spot, I was pissed off and revved it to 3k for a few minutes and it stopped. Never leaked again 
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Jan 12, 2014 14:44
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As for the electric fan you can get sensors that you stab through the radiator fins themselves. No need for a fixture for a sensor.
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Jan 12, 2014 16:49
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First oil drain after the ~25min cam break-in period is... interesting, but potentially not an issue. Again, trying not to be concerned since it's a mixture of Rotella, assembly lube, and molasses-esque CompCams ZDDP additive. What came out is very dark and reasonably thin (no doubt related to the gasoline smell), and there's a denser, silver pearlescent haze that accumulated at the bottom of the pan - only appears if stirred up, no discernable layers when in a glass. I'm hoping like hell that it's just the generous molybdenum paste applied to each cam lobe and not just each cam lobe. Oil filter is heavy as hell (and chock full of the pearlescent wonder), though I hear moly does build up pretty quickly on the first fill. Oil pressure is good, though today I only warmed it up enough to drain the sump more effectively - I'll see how things go once it's back up to full operating temperature on the road. Wanted to take it for its first drive today, but the bleeder screws on my new calipers both rounded off (one using a 5/16 flare wrench, the other a hex box wrench) when I went to bleed the system. Got 'em out and might replace all four corners just in case. Oh, and I melted off my bumper endcap with the temporary exhaust. Oops. Not an easy find. kastein posted:Pull the manifolds to do the galley plug instead of the engine, it will cost you a ten dollar gasket and a few hours instead of all day. The only ones that need the engine pulled are on the back of the block, really. Seat Safety Switch posted:As for the electric fan you can get sensors that you stab through the radiator fins themselves. No need for a fixture for a sensor. EightBit posted:4.0s make noise, worry when it makes less. 
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Jan 15, 2014 03:29
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The only time I've ever been pissed about 4.0 manifolds was the time I decided to reuse the exhaust manifold studs (the ones that go into the head at the front and back) and the loving rear one snapped off after I had literally put the whole rest of the vehicle back together. No space to drill it out even with the manifolds back off, no time, no energy, no fucks given. I'm still driving that pile of poo poo around with no stud on the back... the exhaust leak is getting almost as loud as the lifters. No CEL, no fucks given, it can go to hell. I've found that caliper rebuilders like to really gorilla-torque bleeders for some stupid reason. Even seen the conical tip of the bleeder screw get an indented ring in it from being rammed forcibly into its seat. I won't tighten or loosen a bleeder screw with anything except a 6 point socket these days... when opening/closing them to bleed the system is another story.
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Jan 15, 2014 04:41
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OneOverZero posted:No poo poo? Good to know! I'll see if I can find one with a similar activation temp. As long as the electric fan kicks on for extended idles, I'm happy. I used a Hayden kit, part number 3652, to install an electric fan. It has the probe, relay, fuse, and wires. I think you move the probe between the hot and cold sides of the radiator until the fans kick on the way you like. But then I just wired in a regular coolant temp switch in a spare water port instead.
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Jan 15, 2014 05:19
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Huh, a means of determining AFR without waiting for the plugs to season and the pistons to hole: Going to make a sheetmetal gauge panel  to replace the OE clock.Only remaining roadblock is the brakes. Every corner produces fluid, but seemingly gravity-fed and only occasionally. I bled the WJ master using a pair of lines that fed the reservoir, but I'm guessing that it's either bled improperly or leaking internally. The other possibility is an improper pairing amongst the MJ pedal assembly, late-XJ booster spacer, and WJ booster/master. It's a common enough swap and the math worked out correctly in my head last year, so good thing I didn't actually write down anything of value. If five minutes of cipherin' can't fix it, it'll just get towed to an XJ/FSJ shop up the road for a vacuum bleed, just in case. SNiPER_Magnum posted:But then I just wired in a regular coolant temp switch in a spare water port instead. kastein posted:The only time I've ever been pissed about 4.0 manifolds was the time I decided to reuse the exhaust manifold studs (the ones that go into the head at the front and back) and the loving rear one snapped off after I had literally put the whole rest of the vehicle back together. No space to drill it out even with the manifolds back off, no time, no energy, no fucks given. I'm still driving that pile of poo poo around with no stud on the back... the exhaust leak is getting almost as loud as the lifters. No CEL, no fucks given, it can go to hell. If the vacuum gauge doesn't indicate an intake leak, I'll probably just let RTV hold back the coolant for a while, but I'm not altogether confident that the header is sealed against the head, copper-smothered gasket notwithstanding. Good to know that the front plug is accessible without pulling the engine, regardless. The Brown Dog mounts prevent me front just pulling the crossmember and tilting all that poo poo.
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Feb 5, 2014 04:05
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OneOverZero posted:I remembered that my '91+ thermostat housing has the unused temp sensor port, too. Different temperature zone, but surely a sensor is available in a suitable flavor. http://www.wellsve.com/custom_searches/ds_fans.php?showall=yes I used the thermostat housing too, but might move it if I ever get a two speed fan.
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Feb 5, 2014 05:28
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:http://www.wellsve.com/custom_searches/ds_fans.php?showall=yes Oh, man, now that's a handy reference! Thanks!
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Feb 6, 2014 21:19
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:http://www.wellsve.com/custom_searches/ds_fans.php?showall=yes Succeeded in making a 0.040" aluminum bracket to replace the OE clock panel, but low and behold, there's less than an inch of room behind it. No integrated-controller AFR gauge going there! A-pillar pod it is. The new rear brake line leaks slightly at the distribution block and horribly at the rear hose. Apparently I can't flare for poo poo with a poo poo tool. The system hasn't even been fully pressurized yet, so I can hardly wait to see what happen with all the other lines I flared (every single one aside from the new factory front passenger piece). I really should invest in a decent tool (oh my god, that JIC/AN die kit and the benders look so much better than my garbage) and not mess with the clamp-bar designs anymore. Still no idea why the front won't pressurize - one step at a time, but apparently the WJ master is next to impossible to find seals for. New objective is to have the Comanche and Cherokee moveable under their own power when I move in mid-March. Comanche is contingent upon the above. Cherokee is contingent upon Champion agreeing to accept a return on that improperly-welded radiator. (And if the Comanche 
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Feb 11, 2014 02:51
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Got the  installed a couple weeks ago and calibrated it after snapping a terrible photo:  Took a while to locate an appropriate accessory/run +12V source - turns out that there's an unused feed coming off the horn relay. Apparently I only performed one of the two steps required for a double flare at the end of the rear brake line. At any rate, both MC/block lines and the driver's front line have all been remade with a better tool (and more experience). Will probably use a flare union on the rear line temporarily, and I'll take a look at the two rear axle lines when I do that. Also noticed that all three of the new Bendix brake hoses I installed are dated 1994 or 1995. I'll get a 15-day tag for it (and my KLR) tomorrow. That gives me a financial incentive to get it on the road and inspected before the end of the month. Either that or it gets towed to a new house on April 30.
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Mar 14, 2014 02:02
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For the first time since August 2012, the truck has moved under its own power.  Put all of twenty miles on it.The valve clatter I heard during cam break-in isn't getting any better - if anything, it's a good bit louder when moving since I can pull more vacuum off-throttle. Haven't narrowed it down to a certain cylinder yet (probably #3 or 4), but it sounds exactly like a collapsed lifter or poor oiling. Oil pressure says at 45-50psi at cruise and dips to ~25 at idle, so unless I'm completely misremembering the filter adapter circuit and bypass, it should be good at the top end (especially since it's quieter under load). Fresh oil and filter before I left the house, at any rate. I'm not losing any sleep over the clatter for the time being, so I'll drive it by the machine shop this week. AFR says within 14.4-14.7 under load, so it's right at where I'd expect stoichiometry to be with E10, and it immediately blips to 22.4 off-throttle. IAC might be acting up, as a quick snap of the throttle results in a near-stall before bumping back up to a proper clip. It's an HO IAC in a Renix truck, so that may be to blame - don't know what the differences are, so I'll swap in one of the Renix ones I have around (pretty sure the mounting is identical). If nothing else, the pieced-together and resealed junkyard AX15 is one of the nicer-shifting transmissions I've felt. The only real knock I have against the Dart/Abarth C635/535 trans is the marginal shifter feel and numb clutch paired to an electronic throttle, so I may just have forgotten how crisp this direct mechanical link really is. The clutch does chatter a bit, but that's not too surprising given the new bits and a flywheel with the concavity machined off of it. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 03:16
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Ain't nothing quite as satisfying, and scary, as initial start up and drive after major overhaul. And oddly enough, today I saw a Comanche pioneer, in great shape with original decals down the side and all. Last couple months, I've seen at least 3 Comanche that I haven't seen before around here.
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Mar 19, 2014 04:45
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Holy hell this truck is quick. Maybe it's all relative after driving the Dart for well over a year, but there's no way my XJ (~600lb heavier in current form) was ever this brisk off the line. Bad news is that I cut my fuel mileage in half compared to pre-teardown, probably because it now has six (6!) functioning fuel injectors, can go over 1800RPM, and sounds fantastic going through tunnels up the Blue Ridge Parkway. Has developed a really nice burble now that the muffler has broken in - never had a non-OE header on a 4.0 (and probably haven't had a non-booger-welded one in years). It still hunts for an idle when hot, bouncing between maybe 300 and 500RPM at fairly consistent intervals. Also noticed that it no longer has a fast idle on cold starts - cranks to 300RPM and stays there. Coolant and intake temp sensors check out at both cold and operating temps, all of the vacuum system is new/intact (apart from the heater control valve, which I ditched), and I even swapped in a new IAC motor. I'm guessing something in the Renix ECU's IAC circuitry is hosed. Unless it improves when I swap in the Chrysler ECU, will probably just use the throttle body butterfly stop as a half-assed idle adjustment to take the IAC out of the equation, as it runs great if throttled up to 750RPM or so at lights. All other issues have either disappeared or been the result of paranoia. Turn signals (relay and dash lights) are intermittent after ~5min of key-on and it still seems to have a loud lifter or somesuch, but there's no insulation or carpet whatsoever, so I'll reserve judgment.
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Apr 10, 2014 04:31
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