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meatpimp posted:God drat, I can gently caress poo poo up all by myself, I don't want to have to pay someone to do that. This is what pisses me off every time I find another thing the shop hosed up when I had them do work on the LS1 swap 15+ years ago. It loving hurts to go redo wiring and think "I paid some chucklefuck to do this wrong". BigPaddy posted:Main problem with the heat wave in the SW is that it is 90 degrees when the sun comes up and 100 before 10am. Pulled my swamp cooler out because this is why I bought it but the water pump on it is dead so yay? Either take it apart and replace the pump or buy another one from a different manufacturer because clearly Portacool made in the USA raar raar means gently caress all so the cheapest Chinese made knock off if it won’t even last a year. This is partly because I spent most of last week with a non-functional heat pump, but my answer to this heat is just stay the gently caress inside.
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Jun 11, 2022 21:14
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So if you are still having issues with AC drop me a PM as I have a guest room and central AC. I went and bought a different swamp cooler and will work on the other one later as doing some research it might be the pump switch rather than the pump. The wiring on the C10 is janky before I got to it with it being an I6 someone swapped a small block into without really understanding things like not letting power wires sit on exhaust headers and if you are not using a wire remove it from the harness and not just let it dangle behind the block. Oh and don’t just buy the cheapest used transmission on Craigslist because it might not be the correct one for the application. Usual someone else’s project stuff.
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Jun 11, 2022 21:37
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Appreciate the offer - we had places we could've gone but my wife and I were testing positive for COVID just to make the whole thing even more of a poo poo sandwich. It's running perfectly now.
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Jun 11, 2022 22:21
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Wiring debacle update: Rewired the coil and tach wires for the distributor and moved the 12v switched for the sniper to a different circuit that I was using to switch the alternator on. Of course to do this I took the ground off the battery and put it back on and it started up for a few seconds and then did the same thing. Took the ground off and put it back on then it would start again for a few seconds. I decide to look exactly where they had pushed wires around when loving with it and found a that the hand held to ECU wire was sitting on top of the HEI coil. I move it back to where I had it zip tied to the throttle bracket so it wouldn’t go near the coil due to what I had read about whole unit not being a fan of EMI. Put the ground back on and started it and it ran for 30 minutes without issue. I am going to rewire the entire sniper anyway but either the coil was interfering with the ECU via the hand held until cable so it shut itself down until hard reset or it was a huge coincidence. Either way I am going to run everything as I planned too prior to being in a rush.
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Jun 12, 2022 15:58
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meatpimp posted:God drat, I can gently caress poo poo up all by myself, I don't want to have to pay someone to do that. Lately this is all I do is pay people to gently caress poo poo up I don’t want to do. Then fix it myself in the heat on my back in my gravel driveway.
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Jun 12, 2022 17:50
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I suffer badly from thinking I can’t do something because there are professionals that do it so surely it must take a professional to do it. Now I have done a lot of stuff to the C10 and the Pontiac I feel less about that and the instance of the work I had done last week was due to lacking in time. After all this I am ready to buy an automatic transmission core and learn how to build one because we all joke that they are black magic but gently caress it because it can’t be that hard, just tedious just like how building an engine is tedious with all the measuring and grinding and more measuring. I need to get C10 running reliably and then get the Pontiac back together so I have space in the garage to learn how to do things like build transmissions, tune engines with aftermarket EFI etc… because if idiots can do it then I can figure it out.
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Jun 12, 2022 22:41
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That's been my general position as well, it's all stuff that can be learned so might as well. There are only a few components I've never worked on at this point, so far so good... An auto transmission is one of them, though I'm going to have to face one of those soon probably. Buy the ATSG guide for the transmission you're going to work on, they're usually not much and should help you avoid the common pitfalls at least.
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Jun 12, 2022 23:40
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I've heard that the main cure for automatic transmission voodoo is a good manual, a spacious work bench and a poo poo load of various snap ring pliers.
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Jun 13, 2022 00:24
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:the main cure for automatic transmission voodoo is a good manual 
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Jun 13, 2022 05:44
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Jun 13, 2022 14:06
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Jun 13, 2022 16:36
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Playing Devil's Advocate trying to force a lovely manual box into any gear is super frustrating. That said it is easier than ever to do manual conversions with hydraulic clutches so there is no pissing about trying to run a cable and trying to find the right 3rd pedal for the vehicle. Rewired most of the engine bay this morning and started hooking up the AC lines. Two of the three are done but missing the right fitting for the condenser to evaporator line. It looks like the OEM one would work but no where seems to have them even listed apart from the aftermarket places that want $150 for a hose that might turn up at some point in the future. In regard to the wiring moving everything as far away as possible from the distributor and running it where it was going to be eventually anyway, along the firewall and inner quarter panel, there haven't been anymore issues with the ECU shutting off. I also had a small ATF fluid lead from the radiator. I am guessing when looking at the transmission as was originally requested they took the lines off but didn't tighten them fully as both were leaking. As of now there are no known fluid leaks of any kind coming from it as every line, fitting, gasket and non blind bolt has been replaced and the correct sealant used. Until tomorrow when it will find somewhere else to leak from.
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Jun 13, 2022 18:58
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BigPaddy posted:Until tomorrow when it will find somewhere else to leak from. You just HAD to go there didn't you. You're gonna be playing guess what this mix of fluids is tomorrow.  I found a concerning puddle of coolant under the front of the Crown Vic today. I guess the one upside to the transmission cooler setup in this is.... it's not part of the radiator (it's part of the condenser instead, WTF Ford?). So 2 hoses and some bolts. Just gonna drive with the pressure cap loose for today and keep water with me. I helped with a manual swap on a 90s Honda. FFFFFFF that's a pain in the dick without pulling the dash, even when it's a very well documented swap and you can use all factory parts for it. I wouldn't want to do it today when a lot of those parts are unobtainium now. I also weigh a solid 70 pounds more than when I did then, so contorting myself to fit under the dash ain't happening anymore. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Jun 13, 2022 |
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Jun 13, 2022 19:24
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If it doesn’t leak then when I finally take it out and give it the beans the rear end will let go since that is the only thing that hasn’t been touched.
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Jun 13, 2022 19:50
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Couple of days and no leaks!!! Ok one small leak from the transmission lines but I just tightened it up and it was fine. AC lines were all done and it is having an alignment and AC charge today. Really need to drive it so the base learning can be finished so I can start tweaking things like the acceleration enrichment as it does bog on WOT. Replacing the door locks as it didn’t come with keys for the doors from the auction and a few other small electrical items. If the AC charge is good then I have to put the vents back in so it is not just blowing it out at the floor. Then it is just small things and I need to drive it. So I will be posting about trying to tune the timing and EFI using technology because I am lazy and didn’t want to pull the distributor to change springs, bushings and all that over and over.
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Jun 16, 2022 17:54
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Nope no alignment as they “don’t work on lowered trucks”. Tried a few places and they didn’t want to try to get it on their alignment rack so found a place that builds hot rods to do it next week for an unspeakable amount of money.
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Jun 16, 2022 22:02
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BigPaddy posted:Nope no alignment as they “don’t work on lowered trucks”. Tried a few places and they didn’t want to try to get it on their alignment rack so found a place that builds hot rods to do it next week for an unspeakable amount of money. man, i do not envy your recent luck with the shops around you. i never thought about how using a hodgepodge of random bits from different kits and some race parts and some handmade parts might make it challenging to get something normal like an alignment done, but i am probably going to experience friction when i eventually have to get that done myself  isnt the truck front end the same as the car, just with a taller spring? whats different between a lowered C10 and like a stock-ish chevelle? i thought they were largely the same, but surely most shops know how to handle that?
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Jun 17, 2022 05:03
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some shops are just lazy. I had a lot of trouble taking a very slightly lowered car (think just lowering springs) to a normal tire shop and asking for custom numbers (but numbers that weren't impossible to hit, just more camber, etc.). I had to go down into the pit with the tech myself and adjust it. It was ridiculous.
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Jun 17, 2022 13:00
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GM truck front ends from an adjustability prospective are no different from same era cars. It is just lazy shops who don’t want to work on anything outside of modern grey econoboxes and charge obscene amounts of work that takes them minutes to hit targets from corporate. Before they even tried to get it on the lift they said they couldn’t do it because their alignment rack computer only went back to 1990…. So look up the loving numbers you brainless slug!
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Jun 17, 2022 13:22
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After the continued poor showing from people who claim to work in internal combustion powered vehicles I am doing the AC charge myself. Holds vacuum so letting it warm up to charge it. The gauges and manifold were about $150 which is 1.5 services from a professional.
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Jun 17, 2022 14:48
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Nice find with that truck, kinda lovely that all the shops around you seem to suck. I might have missed it but what's the current state of the Pontiac?kastein posted:That's been my general position as well, it's all stuff that can be learned so might as well. There are only a few components I've never worked on at this point, so far so good... An auto transmission is one of them, though I'm going to have to face one of those soon probably. I fix other people's mistakes for a living, I don't need to do it in my free time
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Jun 17, 2022 18:22
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Pontiac currently is in pieces in the garage. Waiting on the engine from the machine shop but since it is taking so long I am planning to start work on that once temps start to drop after the summer. The rear end is installed apart from the end of the rear coilover kit that I am making for it needing to be fabricated. Of course now QA1 have a kit for an Impala that could work but I can’t seem to find the brackets separately and you need to drill holes for it anyway so I am going to stick with modifying the brackets I have for a C10 when you do a leaf spring flip. I bought two pairs one for the truck and one to modify for the Grand Prix. One thing to keep in mind if you are going to do AC repair at home with the HB kit, it doesn’t come with the Acme fitting adaptor needed for the refrigerant cans. Do not buy the plastic one from the large auto part stores as it leaks and will snap if you tighten it to try and make it not leak. Hazard Fraught have a brass one for $8 which works great. AC on the C10 is filled and the wiring I did for the compressor works. All I had to do was solace everything in the AC system. Need to put the inside ducts and vents back in place and can tidy up the under dash wiring and be done with that. Probably going to remove the seat to give me room to lay down in the cab and if I am doing that I probably will remove the stupid sub woofer that takes up about 6 inches of seat travel.
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Jun 17, 2022 19:03
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C10 started misfiring so took the valve cover off and welp RIP push rod 1999-2022. Looks like the rocker on the exhaust side came loose and because them pressure in the cylinder set wasn’t being released out the exhaust the pushrod jumped on that grenade. Putting a new one in now and relashing everything. Edit: or it just crossed my mind that when the transmission shop flooded it it could have bent it since it hasn’t been running right since I got it back… 
BigPaddy fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Jun 19, 2022 |
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Jun 19, 2022 14:31
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Local Oreilly had some in stock so swapped both push rods on that cylinder out and relashed everything and it is running good. No hesitation, popping etc…. Now the belt has started squealing when the compressor is on so need to replace that as I have no idea how old it is and if it ever was used with the old compressor that was completely ruined. Once it is aligned Tuesday the main job left us putting in the internal ducts for the heat and ac. Then I can get back to the Pontiac. As I posted in the tool thread I have a 4 post lift coming next month so need to clear out space in the garage.
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Jun 19, 2022 18:47
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I enjoy your thread and you seem to be making great progress despite some bumps in the road.
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Jun 19, 2022 18:58
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BigPaddy posted:C10 started misfiring so took the valve cover off and welp Wow! Incredible damage.
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Jun 19, 2022 20:33
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The roller rockers had a bit of damage on the self aligning stops on each side of the roller but not anything that stops it working and the rollers were still good. I was concerned the lifter might be damaged which is a whole poo poo sandwich with it being a small block chevy so need to take the intake off and clean the lifter valley walls before I put it back on. It is running fine so not going to pull the top end off unless I keep seeing issues with that cylinder. Main thing that annoys me is that I checked everything multiple times and when I had it out of the truck but I guess that one lifter wasn’t correct. The threads on the stud and the poly lock looked ok so I just think it wasn’t on tight enough and the poly lock was too far down.
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Jun 19, 2022 21:56
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C10 is now officially the Hassle Truck as it ran out of gas going to the gas station to fill it up to drive it to be aligned. Edit:  See someone can align it… wait am I jinxing myself? BigPaddy fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jun 21, 2022 |
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Jun 21, 2022 19:41
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Went to the machine shop with the Pontiac engine yesterday to setup the build on it. Decided on keeping the factory crank since it is not going to be seeing high rpm for extended periods and the cost of a forged stroker crank wasn’t worth it for the power I am planning. Forged rods and domed pistons will be used to get the compression ratio up to 8.5 to 1 from the 7.8 to 1 it would be with stock pistons even using smaller chambered 6X-4 heads I have. Those heads I picked up in Maine a couple of years ago for $80 and after the machine work, valves, springs, studs etc… will be a fraction of the cost of what complete ones go for at swap meets so a good buy there. I could have the head surface and intake surface milled down to raise compression but the labor cost is less than having custom domed pistons made so going to leave them be. Due to some pitting in one cylinder it is going to be bored 30 over which is better than the alternative of sleeving the one hole. Since I plan for boost going to have head and main studs installed. Custom ground cam for boost has been ordered as well to give a good amount of lift while having a wider lobe separation angle to reduce overlap and more duration so on the intake side it can ram in more boost and the exhaust side has enough time to get the gasses back out. The remaining questions for the whole build are what kind of boost do I want to go for? Originally I was going to use a roots style supercharger for style points. Getting one that is setup for automotive use is expensive and for the blower, intake, pulley system etc… it will be close to $6k and that is before talking about fuel delivery. While they look and sound cool they are not efficient either mechanically or financially. Centrifugal super charger kits are available and are cheaper since you don’t need a specific intake but are basically a belt driven turbocharger. Which begs the question why not just go turbocharged? I can get fabricated turbo log style manifolds for about $1000 and then either go single or twin turbo. I would probably go twin turbo to have two smaller turbos since I don’t need a huge amount of boost and to me it makes the plumbing of the exhaust easier with no cross over pipe. However it does mean twice as many oil lines to cool the turbos and there will be some maths involved when having the right line size and how much more oil it will need, angle of feed and return lines so it doesn’t starve or burn oil, adding flanges for blow off valves and waste gates. Since the engine is in the machine shop I could get them to add an extra Woodruff key to the crank and balancer and have to cut the channel in the crank pulley which gives me options. Right now I am leaning towards a centrifugal supercharger just for simplicity of plumbing and how they have a self contained oiling system while for a complete kit costing the same as just a roots blower. Using a pulley to keep it around 8psi would allow me to run the engine on pump gas while generating in the region of 600hp. The final question is fuel delivery. I could just blow through a carb hat but honestly the thought of spending all the money on the engine and setup to then blow it up running it lean while playing with a carb setup. Since the relative cost of standalone EFI systems has dropped a lot and how I can buy port injection intakes for a Pontiac V8 is pushing me towards doing that not only because I want to make sure my engine survives but also it will annoy purists. If I was to go with EFI I would need an intercooler for any of the setups which adds over $1500 to a roots blower for a intercooler plate while with a centrifugal supercharger or turbos I can just go for a normal air to air cooler behind the bumper. I could go for water meth injection and a lot of kits have provisions for that. It is more expensive than an intercooler for the turbo and centrifugal applications but less than a water to air plate for a roots blower. It does mean one other thing to keep topped up but the car isn’t really for daily driving so that cost isn’t an issue. So there we are on top of fixing the hateful Hassle Truck hopefully this year I will have the Pontiac back together and spending more money on stuff I don’t really need to make boost noises.
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Jun 23, 2022 15:10
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BigPaddy posted:I suffer badly from thinking I can’t do something because there are professionals that do it so surely it must take a professional to do it. Now I have done a lot of stuff to the C10 and the Pontiac I feel less about that and the instance of the work I had done last week was due to lacking in time. After all this I am ready to buy an automatic transmission core and learn how to build one because we all joke that they are black magic but gently caress it because it can’t be that hard, just tedious just like how building an engine is tedious with all the measuring and grinding and more measuring. I've rebuilt two TH400s with a Haynes manual. Understanding how they work is still black magic, but tearing one down and rebuilding it per the manual doesn't require that understanding. The only 'specialty' tools I recall needing was a dial indicator (which I didn't have, an inside micrometer sufficed) and a lip seal installer (didn't have one, used the plastic bag my newspaper came in) I haven't rebuilt an engine, that intimidates me more than the AT did. The first one I did I also had to repair the case with alumiweld, and that was the part that failed 2 years later. The second rebuild was still going strong when the car left my possession five years after the rebuild. Do it. If you've rebuilt an engine, you can rebuild a transmission.
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Jun 23, 2022 19:01
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I might pick up a core and rebuild it. Worse thing that happens then is a ruin a good core. Just need to get all the tools for it. Before that I need to clear out all the crap in the garage and organize all the stuff I have. I am sure we will see the results here one day.
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Jun 23, 2022 21:42
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BigPaddy posted:The remaining questions for the whole build are what kind of boost do I want to go for? I'll be honest, I like the look of a Torqstorm a lot just because it means not having to completely re-plumb my exhaust (and if I want to keep my inner fenderwells and air conditioning, there's surprisingly little room for fuckery in that regard anyway).
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Jun 23, 2022 21:49
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Torqstorm, Procharger and other centrifugal superchargers are the simplest from a packaging prospective and you are not having to move so much mass like in a roots blower to need a second Woodruff key which is nice as well. Still might need some messing around to get AC and the supercharger bracket mounted but that is easier than exhaust routing or opening up the wallet to drop the money on a roots blower setup.
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Jun 23, 2022 22:31
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Having owned a TDI and a gen2 3800SC I greatly preferred the woosh noise from the turbo vs the slight whine from the Eaton blower. The woosh the Duramax makes when you have a load on it is even nice to listen to. The only experience I had with a centrifugal blower was in a 928 and we were moving so fast I had no time to appreciate anything but the fact we were blowing past everything in the corners. If I'm not doing the plumbing I'm always voting turbo, if it's super tight under the hood I'd vote centrifugal. Either way it should be fun when it's up and running.
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Jun 24, 2022 20:12
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There is plenty of space on the passenger side and the Torqstorm kit comes with a blow off valve so I get belt whine and whoosh noises.
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Jun 24, 2022 20:49
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Hassle Truck ac lines had a leak after taking it for a drive so pulled the hose that was leaking and crimped it down harder.   As stated before the condenser, dryer, evaporator, lines and compressor were all replaced as the PO had taken all the lines off for the V8 swap and never bothered to hook them back up so they were all full of crap. It was a lot of trial and error to get the fittings needed for the lines. I started with a VintageAir kit that came with 10, 8 and 6 hose and a selection of beadlock fittings that work with their under dash unit. I needed to buy an extra AN 12 to 10 beadlock fitting and a AN 8 to 6 beadlock fitting due to the OEM stuff not matching what VintageAir use. Wiring the compressor as simple enough after I chased the wires for the pressure switch through to the 12v that switches the clutch on. Charged it and the compressor would work but the serpentine belt would shake badly. Looked into this and the serpentine belt setup was missing an idler pulley so the run of the belt from the compressor to the crank pulley was too long. The serpentine setup comes from a 88-96 Truck so just ordered one and once it is here can bolt it in and put the belt back on and that should be sorted.
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Jun 26, 2022 17:00
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i never noticed that lil baby air filter before. hello little guy!  is that... adequate?
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Jun 26, 2022 19:15
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It is ok for a 350 going up to maybe 6200 rpm. Element is 2.75 inches with a 10 inch diameter so using some good old maths: 350 * 6200 / 25500 Gives you around 85 inches as the minimum effective filter area. Take that area and work out for the elements diameter how much height you need: 85 / ( 10 * pi ) + height of rubber seal area so for this example about 0.75 of an inch gives approximately 2.62 inches in height. I have a bigger one at 14 inches but it hits on the fuel feed so needs a spacer. Edit: new idler pulley arrived and installed. Just need to charge the AC and I might be able to drive it before September. Since it is free tool weekend at Hazard Fraught probably go grab some there and some free angle grinders. BigPaddy fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jun 26, 2022 |
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Jun 26, 2022 19:38
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Found the drivers side is it holding an alignment while driving. Jacked the truck up and took a look around where it was hit and noticed the rivets that hold the crossmember were knocked loose during its accident. It is a fairly common issue with or without an accident and the GM approved repair is to drill them out and replace them with bolts. So they will be the first job when I get back and the lift is delivered. Might just invest in a wheel alignment kit as $100 a time and all the hassle to take somewhere.
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Jul 1, 2022 15:36
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Been slow with the summer heat and holidays but did spend some time going over the AC system on the inside of the cab and shock horror all the vacuum lines that run the doors are just destroyed. So I could just force the door into the cold position but then it will likely mist up when traveling somewhere humid and I will be screwed. That along with there still being a slow leak somewhere in all the new lines, compressor, drier, condenser and evaporator I am just going to do what I should have done to start and out an after market system in. Most of these are on 12 week+ back order so something to do when it cools down.
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Aug 14, 2022 21:14
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