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My winter storage routine is: 1) Put key in bike 2) Ride all "winter"  Average highs and lows, I think we dropped below freezing like 4 times this year. As nice as riding all winter is, summer is absolutely brutal, two summers ago we had 38 days in a row over 100 degrees. 
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Mar 29, 2013 22:13
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Nidhg00670000 posted:My winter storage routine is: Mine consisted of "real gloves and heated grips". Gawd, putting it away would suck.
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Mar 29, 2013 22:25
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Given it's always icing conditions in our winters I just follow Altern. air Hot Alt. Statik Select ALTERNATE Pitot Heat On RPM Control HIGH Cabin conditioning Hot, screen Vacate icing conditions by the quickest means possible* *(EGPK - GCLP v. RYR)
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Mar 29, 2013 22:40
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Does everyone use engine ice or mostly water with water wetter? This will be for 90+ degree heat that'll be coming soon enough. Not a lot of freeze threat here after the next couple weeks. The bike is a DRZ.
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Mar 29, 2013 22:56
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Anyone have an app they recommend for using my phone like a Go Pro (video capture with screen off)?
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Mar 29, 2013 23:08
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hayden. posted:Anyone have an app they recommend for using my phone like a Go Pro (video capture with screen off)? http://www.dailyroads.com/voyager.php This is a free android app to use your phone as a dashcam, it can run in the background if thats any good to you
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Mar 29, 2013 23:17
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JP Money posted:Does everyone use engine ice or mostly water with water wetter? This will be for 90+ degree heat that'll be coming soon enough. Not a lot of freeze threat here after the next couple weeks. I've been using water wetter + deionized water but I've been reading that this leads to blowing up of the heat exchanger on the 675 so I'm probably going to switch to engine ice...
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Mar 29, 2013 23:24
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You really have to wonder how they managed to screw up the design to have all these little issues, probably cheaped out. I've been using engine ice in mine for the last few years and its still going good, no oil in my coolant or vice versa.
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Mar 30, 2013 01:42
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Nidhg00670000 posted:My winter storage routine is: I think Scandinavian gas is higher quality than many others, certainly the corn syrup the Americans get. I've never used any sort of fuel stabilizer or anything, never any problems with varnish. However, a small amount of gas in the tank and leaving the bike exposed to the elements means you will get water in it and depending on the design of the tank you can end up with a pool of water in the bottom of the tank which slowly rusts it through from the inside.
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Mar 30, 2013 10:17
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The worst thing you can do to a bike is let it sit for a long time without a full tank of gas. Rust city
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Mar 30, 2013 17:22
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The worst thing you can do to a bike is let it sit for a long time without a full tank of gas. Rust city Plastic taaaaank! You should get yourself one of these. http://www.imsproducts.com/Products...zeSet=4.0%20gal
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Mar 30, 2013 17:43
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Plastic tanks slowly get ruined by ethanol. It makes the plastic expand over time and eventually you pull your tank for something and when you go to put it back together the bolt holes no longer line up.
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Mar 30, 2013 18:24
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But it all evens out, because as the tank expands your range slowly increases 
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Mar 30, 2013 18:41
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Sagebrush posted:But it all evens out, because as the tank expands your range slowly increases Yup. Unless you have a Multistrada and it stops fitting on the bike anymore.
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Mar 30, 2013 20:03
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FileNotFound posted:Yup. Unless you have a Multistrada and it stops fitting on the bike anymore. Also Monster, other assorted Ducatis, many years of Triumphs, Aprilias, etc. Duc and Triumph have tank replacement policies even out of warranty for certain models/years. I'm not sure how or if the Japs escaped it unless they never went to plastic tanks in the first place. To my knowledge there's no known coating / treatment that's proven effective at preventing the growth, either. One of the many reasons I despise ethanol.
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Mar 30, 2013 20:18
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I pulled my bike out of the garage finally, and I'm hearing some strange high-pitched metallic chirping. I don't hear it when I pull in the clutch and coast, and I don't hear it when I pull in the clutch and hold the rpm at say ~3k, but I do hear it when the clutch is engaged and I'm cruising at ~3k rpm. What should I be looking for?
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Mar 30, 2013 20:46
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Question 2: I think I put too much oil in the bike, it's above the F line. How bad is this? Should I drain some oil ASAP? Question 3: Are question 1 and question 2 related? Have I broken my v-strom? epswing fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Mar 30, 2013 |
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Mar 30, 2013 20:49
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I don't know about V-stroms in particular, but in most motor vehicles if the oil is too high it just leaks out of breather hoses and overflows and stuff like that. It's best to drain it to the proper level, but too much is definitely better than too little. e: now, if you were to go WAY over the proper amount, like 4 quarts instead of two, then your engine will run like crap because the crankshaft will basically be running in thick liquid instead of air as intended, and the moving parts will be beating the oil into a foam that doesn't drain into the pump properly and everything will be just really heavily loaded. If you somehow managed to fill up literally every space in the crankcase with oil you could even hydrolock the engine and blow it up. But that isn't the situation you have here. No idea about your pinging noise. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Mar 30, 2013 |
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Mar 30, 2013 22:31
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Sagebrush posted:I don't know about V-stroms in particular, but in most motor vehicles if the oil is too high it just leaks out of breather hoses and overflows and stuff like that. It's best to drain it to the proper level, but too much is definitely better than too little. Upon further inspection the level is just over F in the sight glass. It's really awkward trying to hold the bike upright from the right side and trying to look in the sight glass at the same time. I know I should just get someone to sit on the bike but Sagebrush posted:No idea about your pinging noise. It's less of a ping and more of a chirp or squeak. Definitely metal on metal. I can't seem to locate the source.
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Mar 30, 2013 22:44
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From your description I would venture that it's the sound of the chain, since the only difference between coasting with the clutch in and the throttle held at 3k and riding along at 3k is whether the drivetrain is under load. Have you checked the chain tension recently? Cleaned and oiled it? I am not really knowledgeable enough to diagnose all the possible things it could be though.
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Mar 30, 2013 22:50
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I vote chain and just over the full in the soght glass when the bike is upright is ok.
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Mar 31, 2013 00:01
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Jose Pointero fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Mar 31, 2013 00:47
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Try a manual impact driver (carefully!) or a left-handed drill bit on the busted one. They look like standard flat-head (also called countersunk) machine screws to me, and seeing as it's a Japanese bike they're going to be metric. I would put money on them being M6x1.0 (ie., the thread is 6mm across) but measure the one you got out to be sure. Then measure the length and find your local Fastenal or Grainger or something.
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Mar 31, 2013 01:02
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Jose Pointero fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Mar 31, 2013 01:54
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epalm posted:Upon further inspection the level is just over F in the sight glass. It's really awkward trying to hold the bike upright from the right side and trying to look in the sight glass at the same time. I know I should just get someone to sit on the bike but An telescoping mirror helps immensely with this. You can find them at most auto tool stores.
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Mar 31, 2013 03:53
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Jose Pointero posted:I've noticed that sometimes my rear brake gets a bit squishy, so decided to fix that today. Was greeted with this: That happened to the front master cylinder on my DRZ. It was the beginning of a beautiful tale resulting in my DRZ having a brembo master on it now.
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Mar 31, 2013 05:01
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You can try a rubber band or chewing gum and on the driver bit to get a bit more grip before resorting to trying to drill it out, potentially leaving all kinds of shavings in your reservoir. Being met with that on my 83 Shadow is why I replace those with square or hex stainless steel bolts on everything since the first chance I get.
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Mar 31, 2013 05:17
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Jose Pointero fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Mar 31, 2013 05:51
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I've drilled two screws out of my brake fluid reservoir, was quite easy actually. The screw head is a cone when you've drilled through it you see the loose head start spinning with the drill bit. Then blow any shavings away, lift off the lid and unscrew the remaining bit with some pliers. But gluing or soldering a screwdriver might be even easier, I think I'd give that a try first.
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Mar 31, 2013 07:31
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Ola posted:I've drilled two screws out of my brake fluid reservoir, was quite easy actually. The screw head is a cone when you've drilled through it you see the loose head start spinning with the drill bit. Then blow any shavings away, lift off the lid and unscrew the remaining bit with some pliers. If it's not too badly chewed up (and from that picture it seems not) I'd go with soldering a cheap Phillips head screw socket into it first, and if that doesn't work then using a pin to work some 5-minute epoxy into the head (without, of course, gluing the screw onto the cover), putting the driver head on, then putting some more epoxy around the head and leaving it an hour. It's the best use I've found for those cheap socket screwdriver sets you always see near the register at hardware and tool shops.
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Mar 31, 2013 09:23
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O'riginal posted:An telescoping mirror helps immensely with this. You can find them at most auto tool stores. That's a good idea - I've also used a monopod with my digital camera to take a picture of the area (with flash) while I'm sitting on the bike, as Aprilia insist the oil be measured when the engine is hot.
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Mar 31, 2013 09:25
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None of you ever used a punch or edge of a small chisel to break loose small screws like that? Just set the tip of the punch/chisel close to the outside edge of the screw and tap it in the direction you want it to turn. If that doesn't work I drill them. It's a pretty painless operation (and extremely common).
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Mar 31, 2013 17:35
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obso posted:None of you ever used a punch or edge of a small chisel to break loose small screws like that? Just set the tip of the punch/chisel close to the outside edge of the screw and tap it in the direction you want it to turn. I've done this a bunch of times with gearbox/diff drain bungs when they rounded. It does work extremely well.
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Mar 31, 2013 22:06
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This belonged to a friend of a friend. He was moving and just gave this to him and he gave it to me. Way too small for me. It's size 44, barely used. I looked up their website and it seems the older model of their suit goes for $1,000! How much should I throw it on craigslist for? It's been sitting around in my closet for a LONG time. Pilot USA is the brand.
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Apr 2, 2013 01:02
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Depends on how old "older" is. I'd say put it up for $600 and take $400 if no one bites.
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Apr 2, 2013 01:19
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I'd say it's been in my closet for about 4-5 years. No marks or anything on it though. I don't even think the knee pads have rash on them.
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Apr 2, 2013 01:23
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Shouldn't have any problems getting at least $500 for it then, especially since a size that average should be an easy sale.
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Apr 2, 2013 01:31
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My parents have a 2001 Suzuki Intruder VS800 that's been sitting around for awhile. The last time it was started up was 2 and a half years ago. I was thinking about selling my 1980 Yamaha XS400, which runs perfectly fine, in order to fix up this Intruder. My parents are going to give it to me for free since my Dad does not ride anymore. I like using the XS400 to drive around the city but it kind of struggles on the interstate highway. I have two questions. Since the bike has been sitting for awhile, is there anything particular I should do besides basic stuff like an oil change, new tires, new battery, and clean the carbs? The motorcycle used to start perfectly fine before it sat for awhile. I will also install an aftermarket tachometer after I fix the Intruder mechanically. Can I buy a cheaper tachometer instead of a name brand one like Baron? Or will a cheaper tachometer suffer from "you get what you paid for" syndrome? Rabid Snake fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Apr 2, 2013 |
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Apr 2, 2013 07:11
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Rabid Snake posted:
Depending on how warm it is where you live/how warm its going to get, I would check the coolant, and make sure the radiator fan works. Also check to see how the brakes are before you start taking out of the neighborhood, nothing worse than getting up to 50 and realizing the brakes suck and/or don't function. Otherwise I think you're on the right track.
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Apr 2, 2013 07:18
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Pokey Araya posted:Depending on how warm it is where you live/how warm its going to get, I would check the coolant, and make sure the radiator fan works. Also check to see how the brakes are before you start taking out of the neighborhood, nothing worse than getting up to 50 and realizing the brakes suck and/or don't function. Otherwise I think you're on the right track. Also check the tyres for cracks and bulges, and maybe consider changing them even if they look good. 3 years is about the limit that most can be left without being moved before you absolutely should change them so you're running it pretty close.
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Apr 2, 2013 07:24
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