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Dude ran a red light and took the front end off my 2012 STi. The radiator didn't pop, though the bumper cover was knocked off and ended up behind the front wheels after pulling the car up onto the flatbed. Airbags didn't deploy. On the whole I may have lucked out with just cosmetic damage - but is there anything in particular I should have the repair shop examine, and I should verify before I take possession again?
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May 26, 2014 03:49
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Midjack posted:Dude ran a red light and took the front end off my 2012 STi. The radiator didn't pop, though the bumper cover was knocked off and ended up behind the front wheels after pulling the car up onto the flatbed. Airbags didn't deploy. On the whole I may have lucked out with just cosmetic damage - but is there anything in particular I should have the repair shop examine, and I should verify before I take possession again? Have them examine the whole front end, like they normally would. Bring it to a reputable shop so you don't worry about having to verify too much.
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May 26, 2014 13:01
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That sucks to hear, hopefully it wasn't damaged too badly. I just joined the the Subaru club this week I bought a 2015 WRX.  DSC_4964 by FingersM, on Flickr
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May 26, 2014 20:45
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Fingers McGee posted:That sucks to hear, hopefully it wasn't damaged too badly. Awesome. Dark colors are beautiful on these cars, but be ready to hate it. I really wish you could put that front end on a GR hatch.
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May 26, 2014 21:46
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Yea I heard about Subaru's paint history, so I'm prepared. As for issues with black I'm used to it, this makes black car #4 for me.
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May 27, 2014 18:05
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I'm picking up an 03-04 (I think) Leggy Outback with the drivers side headgasket failing for a STEAL. I'm not the most apt mechanic, is the HG job too hard on my own?
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May 27, 2014 21:57
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Yakattak posted:I'm picking up an 03-04 (I think) Leggy Outback with the drivers side headgasket failing for a STEAL. I'm not the most apt mechanic, is the HG job too hard on my own? It's not that bad. If you had a machine shop that was slow enough to do it while you waited, you could probably do it all in a day.
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May 27, 2014 22:27
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Ozmiander posted:It's not that bad. If you had a machine shop that was slow enough to do it while you waited, you could probably do it all in a day. I have my WRX, are the heads always in need of machining?
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May 27, 2014 22:35
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No. I just used a wizz wheel and an STi gasket and threw it all together, which isn't the "right" way to do it, but it's holding up fine.
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May 27, 2014 22:40
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Yakattak posted:I have my WRX, are the heads always in need of machining? Only if they're warped. Someone posted the spec on another page, was it .0025"?
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May 27, 2014 23:00
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It only cost me $100ish to get my STi heads machined to spec.
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May 27, 2014 23:06
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I should also buy a timing kit I imagine? Anyone know where I can find a gasket kit, for the intake, exhaust, head gaskets and other stuff thats coming off?
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May 27, 2014 23:20
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Yakattak posted:I should also buy a timing kit I imagine? Anyone know where I can find a gasket kit, for the intake, exhaust, head gaskets and other stuff thats coming off? rock auto. Don't forget spark plug tube gaskets. What's a timing kit?
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May 27, 2014 23:29
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daslog posted:rock auto. Don't forget spark plug tube gaskets. What's a timing kit? I meant to write timing belt kit.
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May 27, 2014 23:31
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Yakattak posted:I meant to write timing belt kit. Oh. Rock Auto for that too. Get the gates kit with the water pump.
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May 27, 2014 23:35
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I think I'm going to have to stop recommending the gates water pump. Friend just had his start leaking after less than 4 years and 60k miles. An oem pump will last at least that long. So you could get the kit without the pump and then buy a subaru pump. Also I have most of the gasket part numbers around somewhere. Get OEM gaskets and seals.
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May 27, 2014 23:39
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I found this for a head gasket set. http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=W0133-1609861&x=0&y=0 e: It's actually a 2000, I was very confused. Yakattak fucked around with this message at 00:00 on May 28, 2014 |
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May 27, 2014 23:53
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hedgegnome posted:Hey, so i have a chance to buy a Miltek turbo back (this one.. http://www.mann-engineering.com/products/milltek-sport-hi-power-turboback-exhaust-2002-2007-impreza-wrxsti) I have this in my '12 because I live in a dense city. It's a quiet, albeit expensive exhaust. Build quality is great and it'll blare once you step on it, but between 2k and 3k is only slightly louder than stock. For contrast, the Q300 is much, much louder. No drone, and I've the Cobb DP along with a fair amount of Group-N bushings as well as other NVH contributors. Price aside, I've been very happy with mine.
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May 28, 2014 00:42
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Slow is Fast posted:I just used a wizz wheel NNNNGGGGHHHHHHHH! Sorry, you triggered me. I have seen so many hosed up heads from people using wizz wheels to clean up the mating surfaces on their heads/block. Just use a fresh razor blade to scrape any big chunks off and some scotch-brite and elbow grease to get everything nice and smooth. It takes a little longer, sure, but there is so much less risk of creating a low spot in the head or deck. If it works for you than that's cool and all, but some of the horrors I have seen committed with those things... Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 05:00 on May 28, 2014 |
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May 28, 2014 04:57
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Has anyone on here performed a 6spd swap into a 3g+ wrx? I'm wondering if these two parts are the only things I need to replace for the shift linkage using parts from an 08+ sti linkage assembly:  code:
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May 28, 2014 06:51
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dayman posted:Good info, exactly the kind I'm looking for. I'll hop over to the forums and see if I can find anything else that might constitute a dealbreaker. The car will be primarily for my wife. I'll still have my WRX for fun times. My wife is not a spirited driver so performance complaints aren't really a problem, but it's definitely nice to be aware of. I forget the crossover years, 2012 or 2013 I believe, but the previous generation of the CVT had some issues. Most notably was going into reverse. From what I read it was totally random, and there wasn't anything operator contributed to force the issue. Subaru was pretty good about replacing the entire transmission and bringing back the damaged ones to inspect them, and the issue does not seem to exist in the second generation CVT. The new ones are also a bit strong from what I have read, but I can't point you to any empirical evidence. Someone may have already mentioned this, but you can check out the subaruoutback.org forums and read through the stickies on maintenance etc... As new parents, my wife and I took her Audi A3 and unloaded it at the Subaru dealer for a 2013 Outback. It has been perfect for the year or so we have owned it, and it makes taking trips to the store or visiting relatives a breeze. There is a lot of "stuff" that comes along with a small child everywhere you go, and the more space you have, the less of continuous game of tetris it is. The 2015 was just announced so you may want to take a peak at the restyle. If you wait till they start rolling onto lots, you will have your pick of a likely very discounted 2014 or a decent deal on a 2015.
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May 28, 2014 12:54
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Here is the completely anecdotal information I have on Subaru CVT. 1) It's completely non-serviceable. When it has a problem, the entire unit is replaced. That includes fluids. 2) The don't break very often. My son is certified on them, and he's done 2 in the last year. Compare that to headgaskets, where he does about 3 cars a week. 3) CVT is wonderful for people who think their car is an appliance. Not so wonderful for the enthusiast. 4) When a CVT does break, the techs have to do "all kinds of stupid tests and report them back to Subaru"
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May 28, 2014 13:30
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Good to know. I had read and heard from other sources that they did indeed just unbolt the whole unit and replace it. It was my understanding that the issue with not going into reverse was far from a rampant problem, but still worth noting if having the discussion. I don't find driving her CVT to be that bad of an experience, but I do smile real big when I get back in my WRX. Believe me, I tried to teach her how to drive a manual repeatedly and it just never went well. She wants to drive my WRX now though, and I told her I wasn't ready to replace the clutch. I would be interested in hearing some stories from your son about "stupid tests subaru requests, and general hilarity."
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May 28, 2014 13:57
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Aflicted posted:Good to know. I had read and heard from other sources that they did indeed just unbolt the whole unit and replace it. It was my understanding that the issue with not going into reverse was far from a rampant problem, but still worth noting if having the discussion. I don't find driving her CVT to be that bad of an experience, but I do smile real big when I get back in my WRX. Believe me, I tried to teach her how to drive a manual repeatedly and it just never went well. She wants to drive my WRX now though, and I told her I wasn't ready to replace the clutch. FWIW learning how to drive a manual doesn't put too much wear on a clutch compared to just spirited driving/shifting.
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May 28, 2014 14:02
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Aflicted posted:I would be interested in hearing some stories from your son about "stupid tests subaru requests, and general hilarity." He's too young and super-serious for that just yet. He needs a few more years before he gets comfortable enough for stories. He is, however, the guy you want working on your car when it breaks. He notes every little detail on every car he works on. I get slips back with notes on my Repair order with notes like "2 inch diameter oil leak on drivers side rear of engine" and "Oil smoke at startup" (I have forged pistons that cause that).
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May 28, 2014 14:02
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VelociBacon posted:FWIW learning how to drive a manual doesn't put too much wear on a clutch compared to just spirited driving/shifting. I have heard that before, and I am pretty hard on my clutch from a shifting/hard driving perspective. I don't expect it to last forever by any means with me driving it. Perhaps the WRX will be easier for her than the Audi. It was a pretty vague clutch in that car and heavy to go with it. I'll have to put the valet tune on though or she'll be all over the place. I always had good luck teaching people in my old Honda with a worn out clutch. Mostly because they could literally dump the clutch with almost no throttle and it would not stall. It would jerk and shudder like crazy, but not stall. I think it was a confidence thing more than anything. Not having to start the car and try again, but being able to see yourself moving, shift into the next gear, and then try again. They all went on to buy manuals and never had a problem. I have considered the fact that because I am her husband I may not be able to teach her. Apparently her dad failed a few times as well though 
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May 28, 2014 14:30
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daslog posted:Here is the completely anecdotal information I have on Subaru CVT. All of these were true of the 5EAT though. Not a huge leap.
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May 28, 2014 14:33
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Terrible Robot posted:NNNNGGGGHHHHHHHH! Oh I'll be the first to admit it is the complete half assed way of doing things. I was pretty much hate building that motor in a weekend so some artistic liberties were taken....
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May 28, 2014 14:58
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So I need some advice from you guys. Last week driving home from work late at night, i hit a pothole. A pothole that was bad enough to split the sidewall on my tire and even put a ding in my rim. I had a road hazard warranty through the dealer and had them replace the tire. So next chance I had to drive it i noticed that around 50 mph it starts making a metal on metal sound. Its not a constant sound its on and off. I also noticed that the sound becomes much louder when i turn the steering wheel right and almost nonexistent when turning left. Now to me, this seems like a wheel bearing is definitely screwed up. Im also getting some wobble in steering wheel around 60 mph. Anyway, I dropped it off at the dealer and after having 2 techs look at they swear the cause of all of the issues is that my other 3 tires are worn unevenly and the new tire is causing all the issues. I have never owned an awd so I figured Id ask here to see if its even a possibility. If anyone could give me some advice asap that would be awesome as until this is fixed i dont not have a car. Also its a '13 wrx sedan. Thanks guys. Edit for clarity
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May 28, 2014 16:02
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TheFargate posted:So I need some advice from you guys. Last week driving home from work late at night, i hit a pothole. A pothole that was bad enough to split the sidewall on my tire and even put a ding in my rim. I had a road hazard warranty through the dealer and had them replace the tire. So next chance I had to drive it i noticed that around 50 mph it starts making a metal on metal sound. Its not a constant sound its on and off. I also noticed that the sound becomes much louder when i turn the steering wheel right and almost nonexistent when turning left. Now to me, this seems like a wheel bearing is definitely screwed up. Im also getting some wobble in steering wheel around 60 mph. Anyway, I dropped it off at the dealer and after having 2 techs look at they swear the cause of all of the issues is that my other 3 tires are worn unevenly and the new tire is causing all the issues. I have never owned an awd so I figured Id ask here to see if its even a possibility. If anyone could give me some advice asap that would be awesome as until this is fixed i dont not have a car. Also its a '13 wrx sedan. Thanks guys. The scraping sounds like something in the brake caliper. WRX's have floating rotors so when you go around a turn, the rotor rubs against one side of the caliper or the other. I'm interested in the damage to the wheel, if the wheel is no longer true, it will definitely cause vibration. Wheel bearing damage tends to manifest as a loud humming or clicking at speed. It's certainly not because of uneven wear of the tires, though you definitely should get the new tire shaved if your other tires have like 20k or more miles. Others should chime in but that's my impression from the problems you described.
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May 28, 2014 16:37
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I had rotor scraping issues with a bad wheel bearing on my 2002. The wheel was moving in and out on cornering so when I cornered in one direction, the hub was moving a few mm outward, causing it to come in contact with the caliper bracket. There were no other odd noises that one would normally associate with a bad wheel bearing. There was also no perceptible play in the wheel if you jacked the car up and tried to wobble it. They also misdiagnosed it as a brake issue and sent me on my way the first time even though I was pretty sure it was a bad wheel bearing. I came back to them a few hundred miles later with the issue still persisting and finally got them to diagnose it as a bad wheel bearing. The whole knuckle was shot at that point. I got them to pay for half the parts after I told them that they sent me away the first time on a bad wheel bearing after which I took a 500 mile round trip on interstate highway when I was apparently at danger of my wheel coming off at any time on their assurance that it was simply a "warped rotor." I would check for score marks on your rotors and see if they line up with the caliper bracket. I was also getting some pretty bad pad knockback at that point which affected my braking ability for the first application of brakes after cornering. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 18:19 on May 28, 2014 |
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May 28, 2014 18:16
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Thanks for replies guys. I managed to get ahold of a mechanic I somewhat know and will be running there after work. Hes thinking as far as the wobble goes that the rim is bent. He figures when they replaced the tire they didnt bother to actually balance it. I will definitely have him take a look at the calipers/rotors as well. I more than likely also need an alignment (about 29k miles on it) so i will have him do that as well.
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May 28, 2014 18:56
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So, what is the deal with cold air intakes like the AEM and Cobb SF? Now that I have an accessport I've gone back and forth on ordering one, both because I'm a child and I like the audible intake sounds (more for the turbo spool, not so much the BPV dump), and also because I hear that with a tune it's a legit easy way to gain a little power and throttle response. My question is mostly regarding the IAT differences. It seems that both the popular options raise temperatures pretty significantly. Which kind of raises the question: aren't they supposed to do just the opposite? Are the people who report the increase in temps doing something wrong, or is that part of the whole deal?
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May 29, 2014 02:54
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Linux Nazi posted:So, what is the deal with cold air intakes like the AEM and Cobb SF? If you're sticking with an OTS tune, your stock airbox is the way to go. If you're getting protuned and just want something for the sake of having a noisemaker, at least get something that'll perform(scaling) well for the many dollarbux you're about to spend on top of that (anywhere around $400+ for the tune and $225-500 for your intake setup). I'm a fan of KSTech's custom made offerings, at a very reasonable rate, and you can scale them until your MAF/MAP sensors run out of room. FWIW, you won't be doing much of that on your vehicle with just a catback on there; I'd personally wait until you are in the planning stages to adjust fueling ($$), a turbo swap($$$), and most likely building your top end($$$$$). Cobb's unit is one of the loudest for the 3g+ platform with some of the least impressive dyno results per $ spent, if you factor in the cost of their additional air box shielding as well. AEM performs well, but really isn't a huge leap or gain above the rest of the competition. Fake edit: take a look at cobb's open dyno database, and look at what realistic gains are like with your proposed setup (intake + catback), then evaluate that against your spent dollarbux to happiness ratio to see if that fits your plan. http://www.cobbtuning.com/Dyno-Database-s/70119.htm McSpatula fucked around with this message at 03:32 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 03:27
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Awesome, thanks for the info. It's always hard to decipher what's bullshit when perusing for info on the net. I do dig the idea of more wonderful sounds, but if it's going to raise temps and not do anything for performance I'd rather just save the dollars for, say, a new head unit.
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May 29, 2014 03:39
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How do I tell the difference between hosed power steering and a hosed centre diff? It seems to be linked to the engine being warm rather than recent highway driving, and when I reverse at full lock I hear what I think is the pump complaining.
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May 29, 2014 05:21
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A bad power steering pump sounds like a supercharger to an extent, a failing diff, not so much. Does the noise go away in neutral if you turn the wheel from lock to lock?
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May 29, 2014 05:58
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After being at uni for 3 hours, the steering felt fine when I left, so I went into a carpark and did a lot of backwards and forwards turns and didn't hear anything abnormal, although my steering was back to being really heavy when I left. My drive home was 30-40 minutes of 100kmh on the highway, then 15-20 minutes of main roads at 60-80kmh. When I got close to home, I went into a culdesac and did some forward turns. I heard what I would describe as knocking, which I believe is the rear suspension, based on how bouncy the car is on flat roads, and noises it makes when I got over bumps. The culdesac was on a hill, and the road was pretty average. I can't say that it didn't make that noise because the carpark I tried it at was next to a main road and a field with yelling kids, and the noise wasn't loud. It also made that noise when I went in a straight line when I left the culdesac. I noticed that my steering was heavier when I was in neutral/had the clutch in but still in gear, which might mean its not the center diff? It's not doing anything when the car's in neutral is it? E: The carpark was new concrete and flat, so if it was suspension knocking then I don't think it would have happened there. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 09:45 on May 29, 2014 |
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May 29, 2014 09:11
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Linux Nazi posted:So, what is the deal with cold air intakes like the AEM and Cobb SF? I just ordered the AEM for my 3g WRX. I will let you know what I think of it after it arrives and I get some time with it. I am not expecting a lot from it, but it will be nice to have later on when I get some other stuff done. I swapped out my swaybars, stereo, and got an AP before it was even on my radar though. I'll run the OTS COBB map for a while and log it while waiting to pick up the rest of the pie and head over to TopSpeed to get it tuned.
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May 29, 2014 13:32
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Sometime this summer, doing the Timing belt and struts on my 2008 LGT. Gates Kit TCK328 - $150 from RA WP+gasket+o-ring - $120 from subaru genuine parts Struts - I was looking at bilsteins earlier in the thread, and still think that may be the way to go, but not sure the best place to get them or if there are other options I should consider. Koni's are good, but probably overkill since this car only really is a commuter at this point. Probably need mounts for them too, but the places I've checked don't have a great selection - i.e. RA only had Moog for the rear, or some no name brand. Jamal? Other considerations I should look into while doing all this? I am probably going to do trans/diff fluid while at it, so need to source some extra S...
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