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Yeah we are replacing the tire tomorrow buy there is something obviously wrong somewhere with that kind of wear pattern. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas
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Jul 1, 2013 03:55
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The front brake on my XLR 250 has gotten a bit stiff. It's nothing that keeps me from braking, but there's a bit of resistance about 25-40% of the way through the lever's travel that wasn't there before (bought it in December, done about 3,000kms: PO was really good with maintenance, I suck). Have only done like 3-4 hard stops this whole time, haven't been down. What would be good to start looking at?
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Jul 1, 2013 04:55
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Hydraulic front brake? Bleed the brakes and get fresh fluid in there.
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Jul 1, 2013 04:57
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EX250 Type R posted:My friend's 2005 Victory Vegas 8ball has some odd tire wear, anyone have any ideas? Pretty common symptom when the tire has been run with too low pressure.
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Jul 1, 2013 05:17
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EX250 Type R posted:Yeah we are replacing the tire tomorrow buy there is something obviously wrong somewhere with that kind of wear pattern. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas Yah definitely something wrong with the tire. I suggest writing a certified mail letter to the CEO of the tire maker demanding a replacement.
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Jul 1, 2013 05:22
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n8r posted:Yah definitely something wrong with the tire. I suggest writing a certified mail letter to the CEO of the tire maker demanding a replacement. Nice troll n8 why don't you add to the discussion
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Jul 1, 2013 05:34
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Halo_4am posted:I'll give it a go Sunday which is the first chance I'll have to put some time into it. Hit it with more penetrating oil today, and will again tomorrow. This stopped at 1. I cut nice and straight notch, and with the thinnest blade I had to make the most of it. Not enough rear end left to get a good bite with a driver. Must have been quite a bit less than 1/8" left after all. Pulled the head, drilled and tapped. Detailed and continued in what did you do to your ride today as I'm pretty well free and clear of questions at this point. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3098443&pagenumber=196#post417030701 Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jul 1, 2013 05:57
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My buddy bought a '95 Virago 535 a while back. He's done 1500 miles on it and called me to ask if I could help him with his front tire. Apparently the place he bought the bike from either installed or left it on backwards. He doesn't know when any of the services were done to it and hasn't done any. I'm meeting him at Cycle Gear tomorrow to pick up stuff to do an oil change with and some brake fluid. Does anyone know if I can use GL5 final drive oil for his bike? The manual says GL4 and I don't know if it's forward compatible, my bike needs GL5 though and I was hoping to just buy one bottle.
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Jul 1, 2013 06:00
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EX250 Type R posted:Yeah we are replacing the tire tomorrow buy there is something obviously wrong somewhere with that kind of wear pattern. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas The asymmetrical wear is pretty common; it comes from the crown in the road. Happens to a lesser extent, and slower, if you keep the tire inflated properly.
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Jul 1, 2013 17:20
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I'm having some trouble with my chain. I've never had a bike with a chain before, so I decided to try to learn a bit about it. I degreased it with DuPont chain degreaser, lubed it up, and adjusted the tension. Things seemed fine until I was pushing it with the engine off. I heard a ticking coming from the front sprocket. I guess I don't have the wheel aligned correctly. Last night, I screwed around trying to align it for an hour or two and no matter what I did, I was still getting that ticking. I went as far as spinning the wheel and adjusting the right side, trying to find a spot where the ticking would stop. It didn't, no matter what position it was in. The alignment marks are lined up as well as I can get them and I'm still not having any luck. Other than getting a chain alignment tool (which will probably net me the same results), what do I need to do? Trying to measure from the swingarm pivot to the rear axle isn't going to work either. It seems as if the tolerances are too tight to be measured by a tape measre.The chain and sprocket appear to be somewhat fresh and was probably replaced in the past 5k miles. Also, the chain play should be 35mm or 1 3/8 in. That's measured by pulling the chain down and then pushing it back up, measuring from the bottom edge of the chain right? astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jul 1, 2013 18:22
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How old is the chain, is it kinking? Did you clean a bunch of orange/brown dust off it? For that its worth, the swing-arm marks are unreliable. I usually measure the axle position with calipers but I've used the string trick, too, and it also works but it's a little more of a production. http://www.pegmonkey.com/node/1057
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Jul 1, 2013 18:32
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A well lubed chain will click a bit as it hits the sprocket teeth.
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Jul 1, 2013 18:32
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Oh no.  It looks like I accidentally spilled some petrol on my fuel tank and left it without realising it. The Honda decal and a load of the paint is bubbling and rubs off even with gentle abrasion. How can I fix this? How can I make it right? 
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Jul 1, 2013 18:34
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Z3n posted:A well lubed chain will click a bit as it hits the sprocket teeth. This. A clean and lubed chain is actually kinda noisy. As long as there's no kinks and you've done your best to align it correctly, I'm betting the sound you're hearing is SUPPOSED to be there.
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Jul 1, 2013 18:43
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I thought gasoline didn't damage automotive paint, at least anything made in the past few decades. At worst it can strip wax off, but other than it should be mostly harmless if you don't go scrubbing it in. I've spilled gas on the paint on my bike and my cars and it's never done any damage, it just evaporates off. Brake fluid, on the other hand...
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Jul 1, 2013 18:46
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Guinness posted:I thought gasoline didn't damage automotive paint, at least anything made in the past few decades. At worst it can strip wax off, but other than it should be mostly harmless if you don't go scrubbing it in. I've spilled gas on the paint on my bike and my cars and it's never done any damage, it just evaporates off. Could have been repainted with paint that isn't ethanol-safe.
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Jul 1, 2013 18:49
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clutchpuck posted:How old is the chain, is it kinking? Did you clean a bunch of orange/brown dust off it? Z3n posted:A well lubed chain will click a bit as it hits the sprocket teeth. tranten posted:This. A clean and lubed chain is actually kinda noisy. As long as there's no kinks and you've done your best to align it correctly, I'm betting the sound you're hearing is SUPPOSED to be there. I'm gonna try the string idea and go from there. Thanks guys.
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Jul 1, 2013 18:52
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EX250 Type R posted:My friend's 2005 Victory Vegas 8ball has some odd tire wear, anyone have any ideas? Probably a combination of not being at the right pressure and becuase you will travel further on one side of the tyre depending on which side of the road you drive on. quote:In the case of right side driving countries like the USA, one does indeed ride farther on the left side of the tire than on the right side of the tire. At a simple single lane intersection that is common in most residential neighborhoods, negotiating a left turn will have you traveling TWICE the distance that you do making a right hand turn. That's at a simple single lane intersection. A double lane will have you making four times the distance. But even when you are confronted with nothing more than a left curving road, the radius of that left turner will be larger than if you were coming the other way on the same road making a right around that same curve. If you don't believe this, check out the How Stuff Works web site about your car's DIFFERENTIAL and why it's called a differential (your shaft driven two wheeled motorcycle does not have a differential, it has instead a "final drive" which drives only one wheel). Also note that Olympic runners start in different locations because the outside runners must run farther to the finish line.
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Jul 1, 2013 20:22
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Guinness posted:I thought gasoline didn't damage automotive paint, at least anything made in the past few decades. At worst it can strip wax off, but other than it should be mostly harmless if you don't go scrubbing it in. I've spilled gas on the paint on my bike and my cars and it's never done any damage, it just evaporates off. It's a 30 year old bike, so I guess the paint is old too! It's coming off and showing the metal below even if I rub it with a damp cloth. I might have to respray the whole tank. Gulp. Does anyone have experience of this?
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Jul 1, 2013 20:38
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Might be a good excuse to repaint the whole deal. In my experience, acrylic enamel color and clear with a hardener added to the clear is pretty gasoline resistant. It will still get destroyed if you don't clean it up promptly in case of a spill, but it will withstand spills reasonably well. Plus it's easy to work with and hard to mess up. I used this guide and it turned on pretty good for a first try, it will look way better next time I try it: http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm  Rock chips and bugs courtesy of 10,000 miles of DGAF.
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Jul 1, 2013 21:05
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Mouko posted:It's a 30 year old bike, so I guess the paint is old too! It's coming off and showing the metal below even if I rub it with a damp cloth. I have painted several tanks. The approach depends on your equipment (i.e., paint sprayers or rattle can?). I use rattlecans, and still do OK. Gasoline is your enemy, so to protect the tank, you want to use a 2-part clear coat. It gives pretty good resistance to gas, but you still need to wipe any spills pretty quickly. The rest of the work comes from prepping the tank. Prep, prep and prep more. http://thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm That has a ton of good information, so use that as a guide, but fold in the 2-part clear instead of what he uses. This is the clear you want: http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Rap...s=2k+clear+coat It's spendy, but works great. Note that you only have about a 12-hour window to use that stuff once you activate it, so plan ahead. One can will be more than enough for a tank, but you won't be able to use any leftovers, so don't be shy about loading it on there. Some pics:   
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Jul 1, 2013 21:31
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Probably a dumb question, but when I helicoiled my valve cover I may have missed one or two very small pieces of aluminum shavings. Is there realistically any harm to the engine if I run it with a few bits of effectively metal dust? (about .1mm width and .3mm length at most)
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Jul 2, 2013 08:21
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No. Just get it out of the top end if you are particular. Once it is in the crankcase it will get filtered out of the oil by the filter.
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Jul 2, 2013 09:41
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Noticed that my headlight was out yesterday. It's probably the bulb, but I'm going to check the fuse too in case it's that. Looking up the specs, it's listed as a 'HL HALOGEN H7' two prong 12V5/55W. I should be able to grab a two prong, 55W H7, lowbeam for plug and play, right? Does the HL mean anything? Note: My bike has the lowbeam and highbeam separate.
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Jul 2, 2013 18:49
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I posted this at the honda-twins forum but maybe I'll get a faster reply here... I'm replacing the throttle cable on my CB360. The old one is almost split in two, and actually came disconnected from the carb riding the other week. While trying to attach the new pull cable to the carb I came across this: http://i.imgur.com/MNRajys.jpg The part circled in red (no idea what it's called) that the old push cable is routed through is completely disconnected from everything else, I'm sure that's not right? What is the purpose of it and where should it be? Also what is the wheel-like thing that the cables actually attach to called? Anyway I couldn't quite reach it with just the tank off, so later this week I'll try again after taking the battery/airboxes out. Pie Colony fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Jul 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2013 20:14
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Anyone recommend a set of hand guards? One of mine broke off and needs replacing, but I either was searching incorrectly or Revzilla doesn't have much of a selection. They're not super necessary but I like the wind breaking on chilly days and value something between my fingers and a random stone kicked up by a truck tire.
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Jul 3, 2013 01:23
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Tamir Lenk posted:I have painted several tanks. The approach depends on your equipment (i.e., paint sprayers or rattle can?). I use rattlecans, and still do OK. Thanks for the excellent advice. I really appreciate it. Amazing job on those bikes you posted, too. 
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Jul 3, 2013 19:17
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Mouko posted:Thanks for the excellent advice. I really appreciate it. Just one bike. Believe it or not.
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Jul 3, 2013 20:17
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Does anyone here have experience with buying a bike out of state? I live in PA and got a quote from a place in Ohio that's around $500 less than the quotes I'm getting here. How much of a hassle is it to get the registration and everything set up? Is it not worth the trouble if I have to get it inspected and registered and all that stuff once I get it home?
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Jul 4, 2013 02:05
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I've bought a car out of state and it was very little hassle. I bought in Atlanta, the dealer put temp plates on, I drove to Alabama and registered and paid sales tax there. You should not pay sales tax in the state you buy it in if you're going to reg it someplace else. I'd imagine experience will vary based on the states involved though
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Jul 4, 2013 05:48
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I'm due to change brake fluid. I should get speed bleeders and not worry about a pump vac right?
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Jul 4, 2013 06:41
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Hypothetically, if I was to replace my Bandit 600 with some other bike, I need some good options for something different. Only requirements are a standard riding position, ie. no cruisers or outright supersport-like stuff, and an engine that's not a 4 cylinder. DRZ400s are impossible to find around here, let alone DRZ400SMs. So I dunno. Yamaha XT660X, perhaps? All input is appreciated, although I know most of you will probably recommend an SV650. E: Or perhaps I should jump all in with that Suzuki Savage café racer conversion? KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Jul 4, 2013 |
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Jul 4, 2013 08:21
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KozmoNaut posted:Hypothetically, if I was to replace my Bandit 600 with some other bike, I need some good options for something different. Only requirements are a standard riding position, ie. no cruisers or outright supersport-like stuff, and an engine that's not a 4 cylinder. I think you need to narrow it down a lot. You're talking about anything from an old Honda bros 400 to a brand new BMW r1300gs and everything in between and besides.
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Jul 4, 2013 09:31
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Linedance posted:I think you need to narrow it down a lot. You're talking about anything from an old Honda bros 400 to a brand new BMW r1300gs and everything in between and besides. Newer than 1996 would be preferable, newer than 2000 if at all possible. Powerwise, I'm flexible. I drove a 70hp diesel hatchback for years and found it acceptable and I find that it's rare that I get to use all of the modest 75hp the Bandit brings to the table. Something with more torque down low would be nice. Price range around oh gently caress I don't know, prices+taxes are hosed up here. Roughly 150-200% of what a 1996 Bandit 600 in good condition would go for? I would prefer something that's lighter than the Bandit, but that's pretty easy to do
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Jul 4, 2013 09:37
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KozmoNaut posted:Newer than 1996 would be preferable, newer than 2000 if at all possible. Powerwise, I'm flexible. I drove a 70hp diesel hatchback for years and found it acceptable and I find that it's rare that I get to use all of the modest 75hp the Bandit brings to the table. Something with more torque down low would be nice. Is there a Danish equivalent of auto trader or bike trader, or do you just use Craigslist or something? Off the top of my head I'd say have a look at Aprilia Pegaso stradas, spring for the factory edition if you can. Yamaha mt-03 is another option, pretty but more basic a machine.
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Jul 4, 2013 09:50
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Yeah, we have sites like 123mc.dk, but other than that, we use the ebay-owned dba.dk, which is kinda like Craigslist but more organized. Good point about the Pegaso and MT-03, the SZR660 uses the same engine as well, right? Wish I could find an MT-01, though. Such an awesomely stupid bike, I can't help but love it. Bigger engine than a lot of cars, tons and tons of torque.
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Jul 4, 2013 10:07
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KozmoNaut posted:Yeah, we have sites like 123mc.dk, but other than that, we use the ebay-owned dba.dk, which is kinda like Craigslist but more organized. as far as I'm aware, that ~650cc lump is made by an Italian company that starts with M (can't remember the full name) and is used by Yamaha and Aprilia, among a few others. I was doing a little research on the import tariffs for bringing a bike into Denmark, apparently they charge up to %67 of the value of the equivalent vehicle for sale in Denmark to register an import (or anything). I did a few quick comparisons and either by fluke or by design, the price of a used bike in the UK (looked at a Pegaso factory and a MT-01) plus %67 of the price of the same bike Denmark is pretty much bang on identical. To your knowledge, do they always charge the maximum %67? Because any percentage less than that represents a savings buying from the UK.
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Jul 4, 2013 12:48
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Linedance posted:as far as I'm aware, that ~650cc lump is made by an Italian company that starts with M (can't remember the full name) and is used by Yamaha and Aprilia, among a few others. It's made by Rotax to a joint Aprilia/BMW design, and turns up in Aprilia, BMW and Yamaha bikes (including the absolutely mental, TZR250-framed, SZR660) as well as being used quite a lot for quads, boats, and even light aircraft. People have even put them in go-karts which is probably a lot of fun.
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Jul 4, 2013 12:53
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Linedance posted:as far as I'm aware, that ~650cc lump is made by an Italian company that starts with M (can't remember the full name) and is used by Yamaha and Aprilia, among a few others. Most people who import bikes import them from Germany. I think there are slight savings over buying one in-country, but it's mostly a case of getting access to a much larger market.
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Jul 4, 2013 13:12
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goddamnedtwisto posted:It's made by Rotax to a joint Aprilia/BMW design, and turns up in Aprilia, BMW and Yamaha bikes (including the absolutely mental, TZR250-framed, SZR660) as well as being used quite a lot for quads, boats, and even light aircraft. People have even put them in go-karts which is probably a lot of fun. I'm pretty sure that the engine in the MT-03/XT660 etc. as well as a Derbi, and the new (post '05) Pegasos isn't the same as the Rotax the old Peg shared with the F650. The only bit of info I was able to dig up was that they're built in Yamaha's Italian factory, but I'm sure I remember someone saying or reading somewhere that the engine itself is sourced from another specialist Italian engine manufacturer starting with the M. It may have been the Aprilia dealer that I used to get mine serviced at, or something I read online, but I can't find any details about it anymore.
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Jul 4, 2013 16:03
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