|
Below 10*C, I start to consider putting the liners in my gear and using a helmet liner and collar. It's never been cold enough that I've wished for warmer gear than what I already own, apart from gloves. On the other hand, I sweat like a pig on hot days, ie. anything above 25*C, even with the liners out. Perhaps I should look into mesh gear.
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 09:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 07:14 |
|
|
My 83 Honda Interceptor is shifting and running better after some general de-gunking, oil changing, and lubricating. It is still clear that I'll probably be replacing a couple things over the winter in the garage, I'm looking at you clutch... and maybe trying to trouble shoot a couple electrical gremlins. There is something I've noticed while riding that is beyond my scope of knowledge to troubleshoot, maybe some folks here can point me in the right direction. While accelerating, once I hit about 6000 rpm, the bike struggles to continue at the same pace, and slows a bit. It starts to cough a little out the exhaust and just in general struggles to get through the 6000's. Once it hits 7000, it suddenly recovers and takes off normally like it just hit its second wind. Any thoughts? It has 19,000 miles on it and pretty much sat in a garage for many years and I've been riding it as much as I can this fall to get it back in shape.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 18:31
|
|
|
Anyone invent a bug-resistant visor yet?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 21:39
|
|
|
The closest thing you're gonna get is probably those helmet tear-offs they use in motorcycle racing
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 22:16
|
|
|
Shelvocke posted:Anyone invent a bug-resistant visor yet? The rain-x cleaner and protectant seems to make the bugs slide right off with a little bit of water, sometimes even just with the back of a glove. It also makes the visor so squeaky clean a quick left-right-left clears all the rain off. And by "rain" I mean everything from condensing fog on up.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 23:55
|
|
|
I've got a mechanical related question I'm hoping I can get answered here. My friend recently lent me his 2009 Ducati Monster 696 for the fall semester, the bike has 34,xxx miles total and 14,xxx miles on the motor. The friend that lent me the bike has no service records from the PO and I suspect from the condition the bike's in currently that the PO never maintained the bike very well. I'm fairly paranoid and I refuse to ride a bike around without making sure everything on the machine is in order. Especially on a bike I can't currently afford to replace, last thing I want is to be riding down the road and have the motor blow up on me. To make a long story short, I suspect the bike needs a valve adjustment. I've watched my father do a few valve adjustments growing up and I feel comfortable enough to tear into the motor myself and adjust the valves. However, I'm in school and a valve adjustment is a rather large project for me and my time is limited. So, anyone mind telling me the symptoms of a motor in need of a valve adjustment? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 06:03
|
|
|
Betty posted:My 83 Honda Interceptor is shifting and running better after some general de-gunking, oil changing, and lubricating. It is still clear that I'll probably be replacing a couple things over the winter in the garage, I'm looking at you clutch... and maybe trying to trouble shoot a couple electrical gremlins. There is something I've noticed while riding that is beyond my scope of knowledge to troubleshoot, maybe some folks here can point me in the right direction. While accelerating, once I hit about 6000 rpm, the bike struggles to continue at the same pace, and slows a bit. It starts to cough a little out the exhaust and just in general struggles to get through the 6000's. Once it hits 7000, it suddenly recovers and takes off normally like it just hit its second wind. Any thoughts? It has 19,000 miles on it and pretty much sat in a garage for many years and I've been riding it as much as I can this fall to get it back in shape. One of your carb jets is probably clogged or (less likely)undersized. If you can remove the jets without having to take apart anything past the throttle cable and float bowl(i.e. not split them apart and wreck the sync), unscrew the jets one one and run a thin copper wire up all of them and see if you can knock any crap out. Replace jets/bowl, and repeat on the other side. Technically you should only have to run the wire up one of them per bowl, but since you're fairly new at this I don't want to confuse you referring to individual jets. If that's not an option, there's always the Seafoam soak followed by riding the hell out of it. Ronsonol lighter fluid works in a pinch too, it's all naphtha which is what makes up 90% of Seafoam. Whatever you do, do NOT spray carb cleaner into gas and run it through, or spray carb cleaner on with your rubber bits still in place. It will warp and destroy them in seconds, right before your eyes. e: Looks like you have a 4-carb design: http://www.hondapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053eb07f870021c54be4043/carburetor-component-parts If you decide to try removing the jets and run wire through, try very very hard not to mess up the sync. It's not a nightmare to fix, but it's a pain in the butt and won't be fun at all. The tool is about $20 to build (assuming you have a little bit of oil sitting around already) but syncing is generally pretty tedious and fiddly. Kilersquirrel fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Sep 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 06:38
|
|
|
Diametunim posted:I've got a mechanical related question I'm hoping I can get answered here. My friend recently lent me his 2009 Ducati Monster 696 for the fall semester, the bike has 34,xxx miles total and 14,xxx miles on the motor. The friend that lent me the bike has no service records from the PO and I suspect from the condition the bike's in currently that the PO never maintained the bike very well. I don't know the symptoms, but unless you watched him adjust them on a Ducati, it won't have been that much of a help. Desmo valves are special, and most shade-tree mechanics regard them with the same sense of trepidation as they do electrical problems. That said, with a good guide and the right tools, I have heard they aren't that difficult. More worrying than the valves on an unmaintained Ducati engine of questionable history is the condition of the cam belts. If you're going to adjust the valves, it'd be a good idea to change them while you're at it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 08:20
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:The rain-x cleaner and protectant seems to make the bugs slide right off with a little bit of water, sometimes even just with the back of a glove. It also makes the visor so squeaky clean a quick left-right-left clears all the rain off. And by "rain" I mean everything from condensing fog on up. Are you saying I can Rain-X the inside of my visor to prevent condensation from my stupid dumb mouth?
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 14:22
|
|
|
Why does my 1979 CB650 make two loud clicking noises after every gear change when warm? I shift up, it makes the normal "click," but when I release the foot lever and it returns to the center position, there are two more loud clicks in succession coming from the gearbox area. Up or downshift, doesn't matter.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 19:45
|
|
|
My car is indisposed so I'm borrowing my dads VFR to go to a wedding 450 miles away this Saturday. Anyone got any good ideas for bringing a suit without it getting all wrinkly?
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 20:09
|
|
|
Bring a garment steamer, you'll need it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 20:14
|
|
|
Nidhg00670000 posted:My car is indisposed so I'm borrowing my dads VFR to go to a wedding 450 miles away this Saturday. Anyone got any good ideas for bringing a suit without it getting all wrinkly? wear it under your gear. Worked for Mythbusters under scuba gear.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 20:21
|
|
|
Put the suit in a garment bag and drape it over the back. Careful application of bungee nets and padding will ensure it arrives mostly wrinkle-free. I was riding my motorcycle on post and I had to get my Class A uniform from point A to point B very quickly. It can work.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 20:40
|
|
|
Garment bag is probably the best option if you can get one for cheap/free (check thrift stores). Otherwise, trick that always worked for me was turning it inside out, INCLUDING popping the shoulder pads inside out. Fold the sleeves the most carefully - most of the suit will resist wrinkling I've carried suits by bicycle, motorcycle, and with a backpack this way, and usually only the sleeves are slightly wrinkled. Hanging it up right by the curtain when you shower will help sort this out, or hanging it up for several days if you have several days. Or an iron.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 20:57
|
|
|
M42 posted:The closest thing you're gonna get is probably those helmet tear-offs they use in motorcycle racing Or a microfiber cloth in the tank bag.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 21:04
|
|
|
internet inc posted:Are you saying I can Rain-X the inside of my visor to prevent condensation from my stupid dumb mouth? You can actually get rain-x specifically formulated to go on the inside of a windscreen to stop fogging. It works on the inside of visors too.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 21:20
|
|
|
internet inc posted:Are you saying I can Rain-X the inside of my visor to prevent condensation from my stupid dumb mouth? I'm saying it works pretty well for me. It does NOT stop the whole visor fogging if you go from an air conditioned space out into swampy humidity, but I suspect nothing does. The thing that worked wonderfully was a drop of dish soap applied with a lint-free rag to the inside of the visor. No fog whatever, until you touch it, then you'll get a foggy fingerprint that spreads.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 22:32
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Why does my 1979 CB650 make two loud clicking noises after every gear change when warm? I shift up, it makes the normal "click," but when I release the foot lever and it returns to the center position, there are two more loud clicks in succession coming from the gearbox area. Up or downshift, doesn't matter. Try warming the bike up well and then shutting it off. Make sure it's in neutral and throw it on the centerstand. Rotate the rear tire with one hand/foot (or have someone else do it) as you shift through the gears without the clutch. Do they go in smooth? Probably a clutch issue or something in your shift style. With it still on the stand, put it back into neutral and start it up. Clutch/shift into first and keep the clutch fully depressed. How much is the rear tire moving? If it's more than a tiny bit, check the cable adjustment and then I'd probably look at the clutch.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 22:58
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:The thing that worked wonderfully was a drop of dish soap applied with a lint-free rag to the inside of the visor. No fog whatever, until you touch it, then you'll get a foggy fingerprint that spreads. This is basically what scuba divers do to their masks. Also, keeping your visor (or mask) meticulously clean will go a long way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 23:15
|
|
|
Does that work for glasses too? I have a pinlock and my visor never has a problem, but damnit if I still don't have to crack the visor a bit for my glasses underneath. I swabbed them with the rain-x towellete this morning before heading to work but no joy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 05:41
|
|
|
nullscan posted:Does that work for glasses too? I have a pinlock and my visor never has a problem, but damnit if I still don't have to crack the visor a bit for my glasses underneath. I swabbed them with the rain-x towellete this morning before heading to work but no joy. Personal experience indicates no. I have the exact same setup; pinlock + nerd glasses.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 05:44
|
|
|
Don't use rain x on Teflon or Crizal coated lenses. I was an optician for five years and I made a lot of money on selling replacement coatings for ones that were ruined by poo poo like that. Also don't shower in your glasses like so many people do 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Sep 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 06:20
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Also don't shower in your glasses like so many people do But the instructions on the conditioner is in such a tiny font!
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 07:17
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Don't use rain x on Teflon it crizal coated lenses. I was an optician for five years and I made a lot of money on selling replacement coatings for ones that were ruined by poo poo like that. Also don't shower in your glasses like so many people do What the gently caress
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 07:20
|
|
|
Anyone successfully unfuck a locking gas cap? It has always been tight but yesterday it just would not behave. Managed to bend my pot metal key. I have graphite in it now and an SSR replacement cap on order. My plan is to strip it apart and clean up the mechanism. The top is covered in a white oxidized layer that I assume is gasoline vapors condensing and drying on the metal. I figure this is in the tumblers as well. Hopefully I can fiddle it open again to replace it without breaking my key as I can't find my spare.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 16:53
|
|
|
Terminus Est posted:Anyone successfully unfuck a locking gas cap? It has always been tight but yesterday it just would not behave. Managed to bend my pot metal key. I have graphite in it now and an SSR replacement cap on order. My plan is to strip it apart and clean up the mechanism. Ya, me and a buddy solved a similar problem recently. The key (heh) was to give it a good pounding with something soft (rubber mallet?) - anyway it broke some of the crud loose and we managed to open it. Same exact problem.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 16:56
|
|
|
Speaking of rain-x and visors: I put some rain-x on my visor, not knowing that it wasn't as clean as it should be. Now there's some gunk trapped under rain-x. It's mostly invisible (though it looks ranibowy when it catches the right light) until it rains, then my visor is totally useless, worse than pre-rain-x. Question is, how do I really really clean my visor, including the poo poo trapped under the rain-x?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 17:14
|
|
|
Terminus Est posted:Anyone successfully unfuck a locking gas cap? It has always been tight but yesterday it just would not behave. Managed to bend my pot metal key. I have graphite in it now and an SSR replacement cap on order. My plan is to strip it apart and clean up the mechanism. This is a time where a penetrating lubricant is good, then you work the key back and forth to get it lubricated through the assembly. Once you get it open, do the same on the bottom of the tank where the arms that hold it in the tank are.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 17:40
|
|
|
Rubber mallet and penetrating lubricant it is. This lock is getting Red Greened tonight.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 18:51
|
|
|
I'm cross posting this from the SV650 thread just to get the most help I can: I'm about to try to revive a 2001 SV650 that's been sitting for almost 2 years unfortunately. What does a basic checklist look like before I try and fire it up with a new battery? I'm assuming clean or replace carbs / heavily inspect tires for dry rot / chain and sprockets. What about the tank, which wasn't properly prepared for storage?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 18:54
|
|
|
Change the oil, clean and lube the chain, drain the tank and fill it with fresh gas. HOPEFULLY you don't need to monkey with the carburetors (at least immediately). They'll probably be gunked up a bit, but if the bike starts and you can ride it around, a couple tanks of seafoam treated fuel plus some Italian tuneups should work some of the gunk out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 18:57
|
|
|
Please confirm I am just being paranoid. I have four bikes which means they don't all get ridden often. However, I am pretty consistent in making sure that they get some time on a battery tender. This morning I went to start one and it was dead. I went to start a different one and it was dead too. I tried to charge them to no effect. For battery 1 (maybe 3 years old) I get 12.8 volts at rest and 2.4 volts when a load is applied, it had been on the charger four days ago and last ridden a week ago. Battery 2 (from the previous owner, but clearly old) does 12.8 volts and 8 volts under load, it was on the charger yesterday and last ridden 2 days ago. I'm assuming that both are now dead-dead. The timing is just suspicious. Please tell me this is just a coincidence and not related to the battery charger. It's a BatteryTender Plus if it makes any difference.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 03:15
|
|
|
I had a Battery Tender poo poo itself and destroy a battery a few weeks back, so I bought a CTEK charger (US .8). From what I've read with reviews and comments here and on other sites is that Deltran BatteryTenders either run very well for many years with no issues, or poo poo themselves early on in the ownership cycle ("if it lasts three years, it will last twenty" is something I've read). My charger worked just fine for a few weeks, then one night it decided to Go Hog Wild and cook a Yuasa, then melt itself. The guys at WebBikeWorld have had four BatteryTender Plus units since 1999 constantly hooked up to whatever bikes they've been riding and the tenders have supposedly taken good care of the batteries. One example they brought up is that they finally replaced a battery on a Yamaha after eight years, but not because it needed replacing; instead the reviewer thought that "eight" was "pretty old" for a battery and replaced it for no reason other than its age. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Sep 12, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 03:54
|
|
|
Interesting. In my situation I see no obvious signs of battery damage and the charger appears to work fine still.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 04:10
|
|
|
Yeah, when mine boiled the Yuasa so bad it was rattling the next morning.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 04:13
|
|
|
Something weird happened today. I attempted to start up the bike this morning (normal weather, not super hot nor cold) and after holding down the ignition for a couple seconds I realized it wasn't going to turn over. After I let off the ignition it continued to try and turn over for the next 15 seconds (which sounded like a sad, dying animal) even while I was desperately flipping the killswitch and had already switched the key to the "off" position (and even removed it). The battery will charge on the tender, but after giving me about five or six starts it will need to sit back on the tender and recharge before the bike will turn over. The multimeter reading was something like 14.3 volts at the battery with the bike on last I checked. What is going on here?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 20:58
|
|
|
So what you're saying is, your battery can't hold a charge? Isn't that a normal indicator of an old battery that needs to be replaced?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 21:32
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:You can actually get rain-x specifically formulated to go on the inside of a windscreen to stop fogging. It works on the inside of visors too. I'd be careful with Mist-X (the Rain-X for inside windscreens) with visors (and glasses for that matter) because it's formulated for glass and can attack coatings and fog certain plastics permanently. Also why can't I shower in my glasses? I don't, normally, because I'm not insane, but my glasses are normally in the bathroom and get misty and poo poo - am I doing something wrong or what?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 23:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 07:14 |
|
|
notZaar posted:So what you're saying is, your battery can't hold a charge? Isn't that a normal indicator of an old battery that needs to be replaced? Yes, yes I think that is what I am saying.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2013 00:00
|
|