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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah those Schwinns are likely to do more damage to a car than the other way around

They're also joined together using a totally unique electro weld process whatever it's called

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HamburgerTownUSA
Aug 7, 2022

tarlibone posted:


I really like the brake levers. Why did they ever get rid of the levers that let you easily use the brakes when you're riding on the tops?

If you want to be able to brake from the tops, the proper way is to add in-line brake levers.

The problem with suicide levers is that the way they are positioned don't give you enough braking power because of leverage so you don't get full braking power.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

HamburgerTownUSA posted:

If you want to be able to brake from the tops, the proper way is to add in-line brake levers.

The problem with suicide levers is that the way they are positioned don't give you enough braking power because of leverage so you don't get full braking power.

If anyone is riding on the tops long enough at times you need to brake, their bike fit is way off.

Sure use them for a bit when cruising long distances to change hand weight, use them while climbing. But if your hoods aren’t comfy to be on 90% of the time there’s something wrong with the fit

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
They're good levers. Its like putting smaller rotors on the rear wheel to avoid accidental lock ups. Maybe in some weird corner case for an inexperienced rider, but mostly fiction. I had them for years, very convienent for touring. Not more dangerous than not having them.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I ran cane creek cross top levers with claris Brifters. Mostly to see if I could. They work rather well. To install them you'll need new bar wrap which can cost as much as the levers

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009
Cross top levers can kinda gently caress with the brake power and feel since you're adding flex and friction to the system. Also I personally feel they're completely unnecessary. The Shimano hydraulic inline brake lever probably works great but with that too I kinda don't see when you would need it.

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

wooger posted:

If anyone is riding on the tops long enough at times you need to brake, their bike fit is way off.

Sure use them for a bit when cruising long distances to change hand weight, use them while climbing. But if your hoods aren’t comfy to be on 90% of the time there’s something wrong with the fit

you ever ridden one of those? the hoods are dogshit. they're just flattened cylinders with zero consideration for ergonomics besides a rubber cover

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014
Fun Shoe

Cactus Ghost posted:

you ever ridden one of those? the hoods are dogshit. they're just flattened cylinders with zero consideration for ergonomics besides a rubber cover

Yeah, the hoods on this are not what they are on any modern bike. When I first hopped on this bike, my hands immediately went to the tops, because that just felt like what I was supposed to do. These handlebars also have a little bit of rise to them, believe it or not. The "hoods" are nothing more than brackets that hold the main brake levers out so you can use them when you're in the drops. It doesn't look like they were designed with the idea that riders would hold them while riding.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I put 20k miles on a schwinn le tour III and you'll get used to the hoods. The soft spot between your thumb and index just has to grow a giant callous and then its fine.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

Salt Fish posted:

I put 20k miles on a schwinn le tour III and you'll get used to the hoods. The soft spot between your thumb and index just has to grow a giant callous and then its fine.
i put 6k miles on an early 80s trek and never found them to be comfortable. Should have stuck it out for that extra 14k!

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014
Fun Shoe
Wow! The Schwinn is a Chicago-made bike from 1976!

Pretty cool. Well, I think it is.

I will be swapping out the wheels for some aluminum ones. These look to be the original wheels, which is nice, and I'm sure they'll look great on a wall somewhere. But I'll get some modern wheels and maybe some tan walls, if they make those, which I think they do.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

tarlibone posted:

Wow! The Schwinn is a Chicago-made bike from 1976!

If you wanna read about electroforging:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/varsity.html

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


kimbo305 posted:

If you wanna read about electroforging:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/varsity.html

quote:

Schwinn performed virtually all the operations to produce a frame in house. Schwinn made the tubing, made the frame fittings, joined the tubes and fittings into a frame and painted it. The only products Schwinn bought were coils of 1010 steel strip.

Value-added manufacturing is no longer allowed in America, sorry

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
A few weeks ago a goodwill store near me in a wealthy town that regularly gets good poo poo dropped off had a his/hers pair of British-made Raleigh cruisers/city bikes at $125 each and I debated getting them before somebody quickly snatched them up. Still kicking myself about it a bit, they needed some cleanup but they were nice. No idea where or when I would ride one.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
Could somebody with disposable income here pick up one of the $250 Ozark Trail gravel bikes that half of bike YouTube got really excited about over the past few weeks and give it a try before reporting back to us?

If it’s as solid as people say/as good of a mild upgrade platform as people say I’m wondering if it would be a good fit for a commuter that you wouldn’t have to stress out about leaving outside, or maybe a good bike to help get my dad back into riding. Maybe you slap a flat bar on it or something. There seem to be only two sizes, 44cm and 50cm, so there’s that against it.

https://youtu.be/bYMFKzA9E8M?si=EEkOC7ftnY9NLzBw

Project M.A.M.I.L.
Apr 30, 2007

Older, balder, fatter...

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:

Value-added manufacturing is no longer allowed in America, sorry

My wife has a 1969 Schwinn Breeze that was electroforged. The frame looks very slick, it weighs a ton though.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Slavvy posted:

Surely they didn't actually make a bike out of mild steel :negative:

Hadlock posted:

What do you call the grade of steel Huffy uses

https://www.xometry.com/resources/materials/mild-steel/

According to this, 1008, 1010, 1018, 1020 are all classified as mild steel

According to the post above, the Schwinns were made from 1010 steel

One more link https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=6115

Having trouble finding high quality sources to support this hypothesis

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
The Schwinn Le Tour III was made from high carbon 1020 steel. :colbert: it weighed only 35 pounds which was a light weight bicycle back then.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

trilobite terror posted:

Could somebody with disposable income here pick up one of the $250 Ozark Trail gravel bikes that half of bike YouTube got really excited about over the past few weeks and give it a try before reporting back to us?

If it’s as solid as people say/as good of a mild upgrade platform as people say

Didn’t we establish that it has a freewheel?

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
The racing bikes apparently used Reynolds 531:

mystes
May 31, 2006

Platystemon posted:

Didn’t we establish that it has a freewheel?
Isn't that what you would expect considering that it's 7 speed?

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Sure, but with that and the weight, isn’t it kind of a bad platform for upgrade?

Cheap, widely available, and usable? Sure. Good for upgrades? I’m not seeing that.

mystes
May 31, 2006

Oh yeah I think it would be silly to upgrade it. It does look decent for a $250 walmart bike though.

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009

quote:

In the early 1990s, the industry moved to 8-speed clusters with 130 mm spacing. 8-speeds were available in both freewheel and cassette hubs. As with the move from 4- to 5-speed, and from 5-speed to 6-speed, this required adding spacers to the right-hand end of the axle to keep the chain from rubbing on the frame.

As it turned out, the increased length of un-supported axle sticking out from the right side of the hub was just too long for traditional 10 mm threaded axles. 8-speed freewheels were sold for several years, but a very large percentage of the riders who bought them wound up having problems with axle breakage/bendage. As a result, 8-speed freewheels eventually pretty much disappeared from the market.

This is from Sheldon Brown. Seeing these 135mm disc brake hubs with freewheels makes me cringe since it's a broken axle just waiting to happen.

Peggotty
May 9, 2014



Yesterday I rode my road bike for the first time in 7 months because of (Post-)Covid bullshit. Turns out, bikes are still awesome. gently caress this stupid disease.

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass
I rode a bike, to the Pub!

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


Good thing you didn't ride to The Short Arms, you'd have had to put a shorter stem on.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

mikemelbrooks posted:

I rode a bike, to the Pub!


Love this biek

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack

aye, i rides me bikes ta da longs arms. Yuk uk uk uk uk uk

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

mikemelbrooks posted:

I rode a bike, to the Pub!


Did these early aero/monocoque bikes come in different sizes? Or were you expected to just get the fit right using stern and seat height alone?

Benson Cunningham
Dec 9, 2006

Chief of J.U.N.K.E.R. H.Q.
I hate you, derailleurs. You will never be perfect and I cannot accept that.

Ihmemies
Oct 6, 2012

Bike is roughly in one piece now. Brakes and deraileur need adjusting, among many other things, but at least it works.

I bought a new crankset because old one has stripped threads. Tried to dislodge the crankarm with a cycling trip. Without a crank bolt, meaning nothing is holding the crank to the axle, the crank just stays on.

Seems I need to invest in a hefty 3 jaw sliding arm puller

Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 23:20 on May 13, 2024

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

Slavvy posted:

Did these early aero/monocoque bikes come in different sizes? Or were you expected to just get the fit right using stern and seat height alone?

Just one size for the MCR.

mikemelbrooks fucked around with this message at 22:12 on May 13, 2024

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
26 mile ride today felt good. Gotta keep making number go bigger.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014
Fun Shoe

kimbo305 posted:

If you wanna read about electroforging:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/varsity.html

Thanks for this! This is the kind of don't-need-to-know-but-glad-I-learned stuff that delights me.

As for the weight of the bike, I can confirm that this is one hefty steed.

I found the 1976 Schwinn catalog online, and they have a sizing chart. How does Schwinn measure the frame size? Center of crank to... where? Middle or top of the top tube? Top of the seat tube?

I think the crank to top of the seat tube is right at 24", if I'm remembering correctly. I can comfortably ride the bike, so I'm not worried about fit too much--I ain't taking this on a century ride. I'm just curious about whether I would have bought this size at my local Schwinn dealership in 1976 or so.

I mean, probably not, since I was a baby at the time. But still.

Ihmemies
Oct 6, 2012









Bike mostly works now. I got the stuck crank off with a 3 jaw heavy duty extractor.

Next I need to figure out how to get the saddle to stay level, or buy a Deda RS01 or some other 2 bolt micro adjustment seatpost. 1 bolt systems suck. It says 22nm and I tighten it really good and it's nowhere near enough. Maybe the indexes got smoothed out by previous owner because he didn't tighten the saddle well enough.

numberoneposter
Feb 19, 2014

How much do I cum? The answer might surprise you!

been riding consistently again this year and i forgot how absolutely hungry you are all the time

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Sunday we did this big mostly gravel loop and stopped at a bar that's kind of in the middle of nowhere along the route. there was... a lot of fried food and burgers and beer and even some tequila and the remaining 25-30ish mi home kinda sucked.



tildes
Nov 16, 2018

Ihmemies posted:

...
Bike mostly works now. I got the stuck crank off with a 3 jaw heavy duty extractor.

Next I need to figure out how to get the saddle to stay level, or buy a Deda RS01 or some other 2 bolt micro adjustment seatpost. 1 bolt systems suck. It says 22nm and I tighten it really good and it's nowhere near enough. Maybe the indexes got smoothed out by previous owner because he didn't tighten the saddle well enough.

I am not sure if I have seen that color handlebar tape much before, but I love it on this bike.

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wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Ihmemies posted:

1 bolt systems suck. It says 22nm and I tighten it really good and it's nowhere near enough. Maybe the indexes got smoothed out by previous owner because he didn't tighten the saddle well enough.

Yeah, I rode the first 30km of a century the other week with my saddle at the wrong angle because it moved after some gravelly stuff the day before. Pro seatpost, 12Nm indicated max, has hosed me over multiple times. And is impossible to adjust angle and fore/aft separately.

I don’t think it’s possible to make a good 1 bolt seatpost.

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