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So we got the rebuilt crank back on my friend's virago 250, and he and his brother reassembled the engine this week, following the shop manual to the letter. We put the engine back in the frame, reattached everything, but we cannot get the shifter to move now. At some point after reassembling the clutch basket, something got messed up. Could it be that the clutch is installed too tight, or the adjuster bolt? Even though the cable is installed correctly, it feels like the clutch is still engaged. We could get it into neutral before we started assembling the clutch, so I hope its not something internal requiring splitting the case again. E: took off side cover, the shifter gear was knocked out of alignment while we were adjusting the basket. red19fire fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 19, 2013 20:47
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Sharkopath posted:The screws holding the throttle mounting to the carb are rounded out/deformed and I don't have anything to pull them out with. Hooray! At least I got past step 2 before I had to go run back to the mechanic. Just read the terms carefully and don't get a stupid loan like one that resets to 25% after a reasonable 2 year intro rate or something. Or do what I did and put a new bike on a credit card  red19fire posted:So we got the rebuilt crank back on my friend's virago 250, and he and his brother reassembled the engine this week, following the shop manual to the letter. We put the engine back in the frame, reattached everything, but we cannot get the shifter to move now. At some point after reassembling the clutch basket, something got messed up. First thing I'd check is if the clutch/cable is adjusted properly.
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Oct 19, 2013 20:51
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IT'S ALIVE! Believe me, I'm shocked that we 3 amateurs could tear down and rebuild an engine successfully. So, the bike has gobs of power at the low end, but seems to have some kind of governor in place in the engine computer. It seems to just stop pulling once it hits some arbitrary speed/gear combination, no matter the rpm or throttle position. There are no points to adjust or advance mechanism to test, it's all contained in the computer. I cleaned out the carb and all the jets were spotless, and I'm confident there are no air leaks. It makes a burbling sound while cruising in a gear, could that be insufficient spark? Its not as loud of a 'breaking up' sound from a lean condition. I also think we need to reset the engine computer, all the boots in the air pathway weren't seated properly and leaked air, so I think the computer might still be thinking there are really lean conditions. Only other thing I can think of is maybe the carb float being set too low.
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Oct 20, 2013 01:48
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Sharkopath posted:
Financing in general is not a good idea because you pay more than the initial price. For some things like houses and cars, most people don't have the cash laying around to buy those outright. Financing a new bike is a bad idea because bike values tank like crazy when they leave the lot, and they aren't worth that much to begin with. The only way a bike even approaches being a "good investment" is to buy a used one cheap.
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Oct 20, 2013 01:50
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I'd have to really need a bike to finance it. If you buy a $12,000 R1 and pay back $15,000 by the end of the note you end up paying a significant percentage of the bikes value in interest. A smarter way would be to pay $9,000 for a year old version of the same bike, put down $2,000 of your own money (or however much won't leave you high and dry with a flat savings account) and finance the rest. You can have it paid off in two years easily and are taking much less of a hit in both depreciation and interest. Or just learn to wrench on bikes and ride around on old beaters like a lot of us here. I payed $1,500 for one bike 6 years and 50k miles ago. This summer I shelled out $300 for the other because I wanted a project/track beater and my FZR was basically pushed on me by a friend wanting some garage space back. No loans and no real worry if either explode tomorrow. It's a pretty good feeling
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Oct 20, 2013 02:46
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Financing a new bike is a bad idea because bike values tank like crazy when they leave the lot, and they aren't worth that much to begin with. The PO of my XT financed $12K over 96 months at like 8-10%, out of a total price of $16000 or so. When I bought it 5 years later he still owed like $4500 on it. I paid $6700 for it, total. He sold it to buy a brand new VW Touran, which I'm guessing is also financed out the wazoo. I shouldn't judge, though. I financed my Panda over 96 months as well. Bad loving idea. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Oct 20, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 03:42
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red19fire posted:IT'S ALIVE! What you're describing pretty much isn't possible on a virago. Have you tried just revving it in neutral and seeing if it will redline? What about just stamping on the throttle in first and seeing if it'll pull to redline? I think you'll find it's losing spark on one cylinder. BTW the computer on a virago is basically just a transistorised ignition system, it isn't anywhere near smart enough to learn or compensate for conditions or anything of that nature. It is quite literally just doing the same job as an electronic distributor in a car.
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Oct 20, 2013 03:44
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KozmoNaut posted:The PO of my XT financed $12K over 96 months at like 8-10%, out of a total price of $16000 or so. When I bought it 5 years later he still owed like $4500 on it. I paid $6700 for it, total. He sold it to buy a brand new VW Touran, which I'm guessing is also financed out the wazoo. I don't even think 96 months is a thing here in the US, the longest you'll get is 72 with 60 being the most common.
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Oct 20, 2013 08:08
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SaNChEzZ posted:I don't even think 96 months is a thing here in the US, the longest you'll get is 72 with 60 being the most common. By all rights, it shouldn't be a thing here, either. 8 years of debt is crazy for a car and completely insane for a motorcycle
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Oct 20, 2013 08:51
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 Anybody here had a chance to ride one of these things? I didn't know it even existed until I saw one pop up on a nearby craigslist. I never really cared for cruiser type bikes but drat, Honda really hit the ball out of the park with this one. I never in a million years would have thought honda would build another aircooled UJM, much less one that literally looks like it could have been sold in the late 70's along with the rest of DOHC CB line. I get the feeling the bike is gonna bomb hard here in the states and it's going to be a single model year import. There's a couple within a 2 hour drive that the dealers have marked down into the high $8K OTD range (MSRP is $10K for the non-abs model). I'll bet there are even better deals to be had as the '14's start needing floor space and winter sets in. Very tempted. Couple of video's of it in action on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUtc0olLo-g http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUOwvswSzBA Gear whine!
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Oct 20, 2013 10:05
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Sharkopath posted:as a question: Is it always a bad idea to do financing on a bike as opposed to paying full value cash? Usually. There are 2 kinds of motorcycle loans, revolving and fixed. Revolving is ALWAYS bad since they are unsecured and the rate can change, they operate like a credit card and can sometimes have the same rates. Fixed is not too bad as long as the rate is low. Interest rates are negotiable. So, if you have good credit, are a good negotiator, make a down payment, AND you pay the loan off ahead of time you won't wind up paying much in interest for a motorcycle that costs under $10k. $20k Harley you are going to lose your rear end either way when you ride it (trailer it?) off the lot. There is also an opportunity cost with not having the cash on hand you would have if you would have financed it; while leaving your money in the bank will decrease it's value because of lovely interest rates and putting it into the market is a big risk on any short term investment, me personally I know I can buy a couple bikes in the fall with cash when they are cheap (Wisconsin here) clean them up and sell them in Spring for a markup. Just an example, of course, there are other ways to flip cash. But as others have said, motorcycles are horrible "investments" unless they are cheap and used.
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Oct 20, 2013 10:37
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UFS207 posted:
I haven't ridden one, but I saw one at the Honda dealership around the corner. The build quality and fit and finish are fantastic on it. It's not a cheaply made thing to chase a niche (like the fury), they put some quality engineering into it. I guess that's reflected in the price.
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Oct 20, 2013 11:01
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Linedance posted:I haven't ridden one, but I saw one at the Honda dealership around the corner. The build quality and fit and finish are fantastic on it. It's not a cheaply made thing to chase a niche (like the fury), they put some quality engineering into it. I guess that's reflected in the price. Yeah the UK price point is just insane. I was lusting after one after seeing it in a dealer but then I realised if I was going to betray my principles and go Japanese I could get a Z1000 or even a CB1000F for the same or less money. I know they're not really the same thing, but at the same time I don't know many people willing to sacrifice 50hp just for the look if the price isn't also competitive. If it drops to ~7.5k then it becomes a very different matter. Also the Guzzi V7 variants are a grand cheaper and if you've already decided to sacrifice modern power and handling why not go for something that could give a corpse the horn?
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Oct 20, 2013 11:40
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Yeah the kicker is the price and from all indications they are not selling well. This reminds me of the Hawk GT and GB500. Great bikes that didn't borrow parts from Honda's bin and were built in low numbers so they were too expensive. The clutch and brake perch on my 94 Yamaha TW200 have a lot of up and down play in them. Are they like this from the factory or is this just wear? Anything I can do about it?
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Oct 20, 2013 13:24
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah the UK price point is just insane. I was lusting after one after seeing it in a dealer but then I realised if I was going to betray my principles and go Japanese I could get a Z1000 or even a CB1000F for the same or less money. I know they're not really the same thing, but at the same time I don't know many people willing to sacrifice 50hp just for the look if the price isn't also competitive. If it drops to ~7.5k then it becomes a very different matter. I don't think many people lusting after retro UJM (emphasis on the "J") with a big inline four would be the slightest bit interested in a 40 horse moto guzzi V7....no offense. I know I'm not, price be damned. Now if kawasaki still sold the ZRX1200 brand new you would have a massively valid point. $9K OTD doesn't sound too bad for brandnew honda though if the typical honda quality is there. What do they want for them in the UK?
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Oct 20, 2013 13:28
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I got a loan for around 4 grand when I bought my V-strom. I'll end up paying I think around $200 in interest over 3 years. That sounds like an alright deal to me.
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Oct 20, 2013 14:01
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thylacine posted:I got a loan for around 4 grand when I bought my V-strom. I'll end up paying I think around $200 in interest over 3 years. That sounds like an alright deal to me. It's not just total interest. If you lose all or enough of your income for whatever reason and can't pay, you're stuck with an asset you may not be able to sell quickly without taking a bath, possibly for less than you owe. This is a situation that can and should be avoided. Taking a loan out is useful for reasons but there's a risk-reward balance that skews the more % of the price you borrow. Keep in mind the "don't borrow for a new bike" line is heavily aimed at the twerps who borrow 100% (or close to) the purchase price + tax/tags/fees and sometimes the price of starter jacket, helmet etc - and you've seen these twerps' outrageous listings on CL. There's also the non-trivial possibility with a first bike that you may just not like biking - which again lumps you with a depreciating asset you can't easily dump. A loan just adds to that misery. I borrowed when buying two of my three bikes but put big % downpayments on each (and neither purchase was particularly wise to begin with.) Snowdens Secret fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Oct 20, 2013 |
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Oct 20, 2013 14:28
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UFS207 posted:I don't think many people lusting after retro UJM (emphasis on the "J") with a big inline four would be the slightest bit interested in a 40 horse moto guzzi V7....no offense. I know I'm not, price be damned. £9k, give or take. Like I say, it's an insane price point for what is basically a 30 year old bike - sure it's got more modern brakes and suspension but it still only makes 85bhp and it's slap bang in the middle of the litre naked market, price-wise. The only people it's likely to appeal to is born-agains who wanted a CB when they were a teenager, and that market is vanishing fast. If they'd released it at the height of that market against the ZRX and XJ it would probably have dominated, I'm sure, but it's at least 5 years late.
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Oct 20, 2013 15:21
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I'd like to point out this is the same market that BMW just released their retro bike into, for 50% more
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Oct 20, 2013 16:00
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Snowdens Secret posted:I'd like to point out this is the same market that BMW just released their retro bike into, for 50% more It's slotted in right with the current R1200r, which runs around ~14k in the US and makes around 115-120 hp. If the nine-T sticks around that price it will sell great. They're going more towards the Ducati Sportclassic market. The CB1100 is an 11k bike with ABS and makes 85 hp, looking like a cheap bike from the 70's. Its real competition is the Bonneville, which is going to be an uphill battle.
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Oct 20, 2013 16:15
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The SportClassic makes 90 HP and looks like a cheap bike from the '70s. People aren't buying any of these for engine performance anyway so as long as they're not MG V7-level dogs it's a non-issue. In fairness to Honda the NineT probably compares more to the 919 in market niche, but that bike also didn't sell well in the US.
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Oct 20, 2013 16:36
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Had a bit of a weird day today, would be cool if someone could help me make sense of this. I haven't ridden my bike in about 6 weeks. The only problem I knew it had was a cut fuel line, so today I went and replaced it. Simple enough, but when I turned the petcock on I notice there is some fuel leaking from the bottom of the carb itself, right where the throttle stop screw is. Wasn't sure what it was but I tightened the screw and it stopped. Figured I could adjust it later. I also noticed my throttle cable was less smoother. I think this is because I forgot to lube it when I first put it in. I'm not sure but it might have been too tight - it connects to this circular bracket on the carb which pushes a rod out, and twisting the throttle away from me seemed to make the rod jut out further (it comes in with the throttle). SO, long story short, the throttle was probably slightly open (I realized this after I came home) (definitely not any more open than 25%ish). The battery was dead so I used the kick started. Nothing for the first 3-4 kicks, on the 5th it starts and immediately redlines to 12000. Gray/black smoke coming from all around. I kill the engine after 1 or 2 seconds cause that never happened to me before and I was freaked out. Notice the choke was slightly on afterwards, I'm not sure if it was from the vibration or what. After a minute or two I try again, starts on the first kick, same exact thing happens. Anyone have any ideas what to do?
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Oct 20, 2013 18:22
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You turned the idle adjust all the way up when you screwed it in. The leak was probably just the floats resealing after sitting for a long while.
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Oct 20, 2013 18:41
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Alright, how terrible are liter bikes on the track if you're not a straight baller rider?  (06 GSXR1k)
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Oct 21, 2013 02:34
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BlackMK4 posted:Alright, how terrible are liter bikes on the track if you're not a straight baller rider? Depending on your personality, you'll either get really mad or think it's hilarious. Part of me finds them annoying because I know I could carry more speed and the bike's power makes it harder to modulate cornerspeed properly. The other part of me finds it hilarious to be that rear end in a top hat parking it in the corners and gunning it on the straights.
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Oct 21, 2013 02:45
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Well I mean I'm not going SV because I love bikes that joke around about trying to kill you. A 675 is a great balance - with gearing it'll shake the front like a stripper and step the rear end around, I just don't want to end up with something that will actually kill me. 
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Oct 21, 2013 02:49
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BlackMK4 posted:Well I mean I'm not going SV because I love bikes that joke around about trying to kill you. A 675 is a great balance - with gearing it'll shake the front like a stripper and step the rear end around, I just don't want to end up with something that will actually kill me. What about a gixxer 750 or a duc 748/858? They're sort of middle-ground. Unless that particular gsxr1k is some kind of awesome voodoo mates rates deal. In which case just buy it you'll be sweet!
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Oct 21, 2013 03:35
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What are the differences between the 600s of the 2001-2005ish era? I rarely commute on the bike these days so I'm looking to get something a bit more track/weekend focused. I have a sv650 which isn't terrible with the upgraded front suspension, but I'd like some clipons. Should I just install clipons on my SV or will that tank the value of it? I've been trolling craigslist as usual and seeing things like this are starting to tempt me: http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/mcy/4138969242.html I don't really have space for 2 bikes right now so although ideally I'd just buy someone else's prepped trackbike, it looks like I'll have to make do with one bike for the moment. Maybe I should get a set of woodcraft clipons with adjustable risers so I can adjust the comfort based on what I'm doing that day? Is there a reason to keep the SV aside from the fact that it'll help me get better on the track because it's slow? (and I can bang through the gears a bit more on the street without speeding too bad)
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Oct 21, 2013 14:23
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So i'm trying to put together a garage kit so I can do all my own work and besides stuff like power drills, tire irons, a torque wrench and center stand, are there any other useful tools and things I should pick up? Also if my carb is gunked up, why would it run fine when its colder?
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Oct 21, 2013 16:16
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Lets see...the only ones I'd avoid are the early model (01-03?) r6...they had a transmission design that was too weight efficient and ended up with glass transmissions. Besides that the rest of them are pretty equal. I'd edge towards the zx6rs if they are the 636 models as the extra grunt makes for a great crossover engine, honda CBR600RRs/gsxrs if you want more track oriented, F4/F4i for more street oriented. I'd give the nod to the 636 for track and street with an emphasis on track, the f4/f4i for street/ track with a heavy emphasis on street, and give ir an even split across the board for the rest, favoring newer generations as there was a lot of improvement generation to generation in those years. The sv will be the better rider training bike but the 600s will be faster.
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Oct 21, 2013 16:23
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Sharkopath posted:So i'm trying to put together a garage kit so I can do all my own work and besides stuff like power drills, tire irons, a torque wrench and center stand, are there any other useful tools and things I should pick up? An impact driver, chain breaker, riveter, and cable lube tool will all be handy for a motorcycle.
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Oct 21, 2013 17:15
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bsamu posted:What are the differences between the 600s of the 2001-2005ish era? I rarely commute on the bike these days so I'm looking to get something a bit more track/weekend focused. I have a sv650 which isn't terrible with the upgraded front suspension, but I'd like some clipons. Should I just install clipons on my SV or will that tank the value of it? I've been trolling craigslist as usual and seeing things like this are starting to tempt me: The era you're asking about was an era of huge change for sportbikes. They went from carbs to fuel injection, conventional to upside-down forks, axial to radial brakes, and a host of other changes that were all generally lumped in that time period, but made big differences, some good (suspension/brakes), some bad (early fuel injection could be pretty rough).
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Oct 21, 2013 17:28
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Sharkopath posted:So i'm trying to put together a garage kit so I can do all my own work and besides stuff like power drills, tire irons, a torque wrench and center stand, are there any other useful tools and things I should pick up? Deadblow hammer or heavy rubber mallet, tap and die set, hex wrenches on 1/4" square drive, fully kitted-out socket set with extensions, and one of those little stools on wheels.
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Oct 21, 2013 19:27
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:and one of those little stools on wheels. I actually couldn't find one of these at my local Home Depot, Rona, Canadian Tire, or Wal-Mart.  So I gave up.
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Oct 21, 2013 19:52
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Mine came from Harbor Freight and somehow my fat rear end has yet to crush it.
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Oct 21, 2013 19:59
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Sharkopath posted:So i'm trying to put together a garage kit so I can do all my own work and besides stuff like power drills, tire irons, a torque wrench and center stand, are there any other useful tools and things I should pick up? If it's rich, it will like cold temps, need no choke to start, etc.
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Oct 21, 2013 20:33
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Z3n posted:Lets see...the only ones I'd avoid are the early model (01-03?) r6...they had a transmission design that was too weight efficient and ended up with glass transmissions. Besides that the rest of them are pretty equal. I'd edge towards the zx6rs if they are the 636 models as the extra grunt makes for a great crossover engine, honda CBR600RRs/gsxrs if you want more track oriented, F4/F4i for more street oriented. I'd give the nod to the 636 for track and street with an emphasis on track, the f4/f4i for street/ track with a heavy emphasis on street, and give ir an even split across the board for the rest, favoring newer generations as there was a lot of improvement generation to generation in those years. Jim Silly-Balls posted:The era you're asking about was an era of huge change for sportbikes. They went from carbs to fuel injection, conventional to upside-down forks, axial to radial brakes, and a host of other changes that were all generally lumped in that time period, but made big differences, some good (suspension/brakes), some bad (early fuel injection could be pretty rough). Thanks for the advice. I'd have to do my research on the different years after I picked a bike with a nice riding stance. The F4i seems like a good fit although I was surprised to see the clipons are in a similar spot to the SV605S. Alternatively, I suppose I could just do a clip-on conversion or just get a different handlebar to see how I like the more aggressive riding stance. I do enjoy my SV on the street and as a complete track newbie I like that I can concentrate on corner speed and don't have to be scared of the throttle. I'd be going for some clipons with risers but is there any real difference between going for clipons with risers over a more aggressive handlebar?
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Oct 21, 2013 20:36
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bsamu posted:Thanks for the advice. I'd have to do my research on the different years after I picked a bike with a nice riding stance. The F4i seems like a good fit although I was surprised to see the clipons are in a similar spot to the SV605S. Not really in terms of height, but a handlebar still gives far more leverage because your hands are much further apart than clip-ons with risers. Also consider that sportbikes have the footpegs considerably further back and up, a fact I found frustrating on my SV because it felt like I couldn't lever on the pegs like I wanted to and it squashed my posture up with my knees seemingly in my ribcage.
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Oct 21, 2013 21:29
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Slavvy posted:Not really in terms of height, but a handlebar still gives far more leverage because your hands are much further apart than clip-ons with risers. Also consider that sportbikes have the footpegs considerably further back and up, a fact I found frustrating on my SV because it felt like I couldn't lever on the pegs like I wanted to and it squashed my posture up with my knees seemingly in my ribcage. I don't mind where the rearsets are but if they get annoying I could just get some woodcrafts or something and move them up and back.
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Oct 21, 2013 22:34
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clutchpuck posted:Mine came from Harbor Freight and somehow my fat rear end has yet to crush it.
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Oct 21, 2013 23:15
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