xgalaxy posted:

The cabinet I’m using is a BDI with really good ventilation characteristics.
I saw the Silverstone and it’s on my list of considerations.

I’d also really like a Streacom but the form factor I’d want is basically sold out everywhere.

Stickman posted:

Fractal Design has just the thing for you!

TorakFade posted:

Oh drat, is it available in other colors too? Might've found my next frivolous purchase

TorakFade posted:

Oh drat, is it available in other colors too? Might've found my next frivolous purchase

Re: Meshify C airflow, the stock fans are pretty lovely. I kept the stock config for a little while (1x120mm back exhaust, 1x120mm middle front intake) and while temps were not bad, they weren't great either.

Switched to 2x140mm front fans (Corsair LL with RGB leds so they're not even excellent fans compared to the serious ones, they perform kind of like 120mm "good" fans without leds), 1x120mm in the back and 1x120mm back-top and CPU/GPU temps went down by like 7-8° at least, maybe more, can't remember. Now GPU runs at 70-75°, CPU at 55-60° under heavy real-world load.

for reference this is with a Mugen 5 rev.B, EVGA 1080 FTW and Ryzen 2600X with XFR (or however the auto-overclockiing thing is called) enabled

I'm also debating wheter to disable/remove the back-top fan because I'm afraid it might be disrupting the front->back airflow and since the top of the case is open, hot air can already escape easily...

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

I'm in the same boat, I put two 140mm fans in the front, left the rear 120mm as exhaust. Is the top one an intake or exhaust? Would you mind sharing a pic of your fan setup?

orange juche posted:

AC Odyssey is a CPU muncher of a game. 4 cores are gonna choke on that game. Most games are not like that, but anything in the Zen 2 stack will outperform your i5 7600 in both single and multi-core tasks. So, how much are you looking at spending, because you're going to need a new motherboard, and RAM even if you go with Intel instead of AMD.

HappyCapybaraFamily posted:

Aww nuts, none of the new guys will grok my DDR4-2400?

Hmm, I was thinking in the $500-600 range, ideally closer to the low end. That looks like it might make the Intel route a bit difficult if I have to get new RAM too

HappyCapybaraFamily posted:

Guess my response got swallowed up in case-chat Any thoughts?

orange juche posted:

Since you're ditching your old case most likely, please outline kind of what you do do with your computer? What is your most intensive/common task? Gaming is obviously not it, as evidenced by the GTX 750TI.

If I had to guess all your hardware is at least 5 years old, as your GPU is probably the newest piece in it.

If you do no gaming whatsoever


This is probably faster than whatever you are using right now, but it's by no means a gaming machine. You can probably put some gaming legs on it by transferring over your 750ti.


This has a bit more gaming chops, all the parts are a bit more expensive, and decently faster, and it adds in a dedicated GPU. Still not a heavy lifter, but capable for light to moderate games, and the case is probably not your taste, it wasn't mine either but you can sub another ~40 dollar case easily anyways.

For office work if you don't play PC games, it will work the same, just take the GPU out of the parts list as it isn't needed for office stuff, and you can save $120 off the price.

ItBreathes posted:

They'll work with your ram, but Ryzen's internal connections are tied to ram speed so it won't work nearly as well as it could. Either would benefit from faster ram.

BENGHAZI 2 posted:

I game occasionally but rarely anything that pushes too hard. I think the last newish PC game I've played is the Yakuza 0 port, and it's mostly retrogaming or diablo 3 or another not super intensive ARPG beyond that

I'll probably end up going with the second one and just replacing the graphics card down the line. My only other question is am I going to be able to just drop my old hard drive with my windows indtall in or am I going to need to track down win10 disks again

BENGHAZI 2 posted:

Good to know, I'll do some digging and see what I find

I forgot to mention, I need a case that supports an optical drive. I collect sentai DVDs as they come out and I rip them to an external, but I need to be able to use my optical drive to do that. Are there any cases in the 40-50 dollar ballpark that people recommend?

ilkhan posted:

Get an external USB optical drive. More versatile.

BENGHAZI 2 posted:

The idea is to not buy extra parts if what I have is working, especially for something I only use a couple times a year

Thom P. Tiers posted:

I sort of get this, but they are like $25 and you can stash it away for the 363 days a year you aren't using it.

TorakFade posted:

ah yes forgot to say : front 2x140 intake, back 120 exhaust, back-top 120 exhaust. I set the fan curves so that the intake fans spin a bit faster than the exhaust at any given temperature, that combined with the fact that intake is 2x140 and exhaust is 2x120 makes it a positive pressure case which is basically required, this case is very open and dust accumulation is a potential nightmare despite the filters.

here a couple pics:





so basically, the entire front pulls air in, which goes straight to GPU and heatsink, and the hot air from those get pulled out of the back and back-top (and yes, I know the back exhaust is too close to the wall that's why I am undecided if I should keep the back-top exhaust or not)

BENGHAZI 2 posted:

Good to know, I'll do some digging and see what I find

I forgot to mention, I need a case that supports an optical drive. I collect sentai DVDs as they come out and I rip them to an external, but I need to be able to use my optical drive to do that. Are there any cases in the 40-50 dollar ballpark that people recommend?

BENGHAZI 2 posted:

Good to know, I'll do some digging and see what I find

I forgot to mention, I need a case that supports an optical drive. I collect sentai DVDs as they come out and I rip them to an external, but I need to be able to use my optical drive to do that. Are there any cases in the 40-50 dollar ballpark that people recommend?

ethanol posted:

I’ve been using a 120 mm exhaust fan on the top, stock rear fan, and the 280 mm front aio radiator with its two fans on my meshify c. Cooling has been excellent but I can’t seem to stop the dust entering. The dust filters are kinda too thin and there isn’t one for the top. I was thinking I’d just take out the top exhaust fan and see if that improves my dust problem

alex314 posted:

Can’t you mess with fan curves in software? BeQuiet fans are pretty good, with only Noctua coming to mind as a higher end ones. If the software uses voltage curve then maybe get one topping at 2000 RPM, like Noctua NF-A12x25 FLX (comes with adapters for lower RPM too). They are expensive, so let me know if you want something saner.

BENGHAZI 2 posted:

25 bucks id rather not spend, considering I'm already cannibalizing what I can to save some money

Like, if I have to, fine, but I'm looking for an alternative first

Space Cob posted:

Will the new AMD CPUs coming out lead to a price drop for the AMD 2600X series?

I'm building a new gaming PC to replace the 8 year old system that is currently dying on me. A friend helped me make this part list, along with the OP. I've bought everything listed except for the CPU and motherboard.

I'm not going to be streaming or running anything intensive. I would just like to play modern AAA games again.

Is there much reason to hold off on getting the last two parts?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.79 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.09 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - TUF X470-PLUS GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($128.33 @ Walmart)

Stickman posted:

Stickman posted:

E: If you haven't purchased the CPU cooler yet, the Dark Rock Pro really isn't necessary for a 2600X. The stock cooler is sufficient for a decent overclock, and if you want a third-party cooler to cut down noise then the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B actually compares more favorably against the D15 than the Dark Rock Pro 4 does, for half the price (they have very similar cooling/noise curves, but the DRP4 maxes out the fan earlier than the Mugen 5).

Space Cob posted:

I ran your post by my friend and he agreed with your mobo recommendation, so I'll make the swap for the Asus Prime X470-Pro. I'll keep an eye on the CPU price next week and see if anything moves.

The cooler already came in, so I'll keep it for now. I'm not worried about $50.

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it.

surf rock posted:

Oh, this is interesting. Does the Dark Rock Pro have any advantages on the Mugen 5? I see that the latter is even smaller, as well. Asking in relation to a planned 3900X buy.

Stickman posted:

You're welcome! The Dark Rock Pro 4 is a very nice cooler and will look better in a TG case like the H500, so no worries there


Well it certainly better looking! I suspect that if you put the same nice fans on each that the DR Pro 4 would probably outperform the Mugen 5 by a bit, but I can't say for sure.

Space Cob posted:

Will the new AMD CPUs coming out lead to a price drop for the AMD 2600X series?

BeastOfExmoor posted:

Going with a $180 2600X a week before the $200 3600 comes out seems to be an odd choice. We're still waiting on the review embargo to be broken, but at bare minimum I would expect the 3600 to be 15% faster than the 2600X and I suspect it may be able to go much higher with overclocking since other Zen 2 chips turbo significantly higher.

I generally wouldn't recommend pro-ordering a chip before its released, but if your other PC is truly on its last legs you might be a good case for a pre-order, assuming the prices aren't going for over MSRP. Preorders start 7/1, I believe.

Edit: If merchants are able to keep the 3600/3600X in stock they should put some significant price pressure on the 2600/2600X, but that may take a while.

grimcreaper posted:

Quick question for a friend, his computer room is in a similar situation as mine where it gets almost no ventilation so ambient temps in summer often hit 80 to 90 degrees inside.

Would a good air cooler perform better than an AIO in this instance as long as the case has adequate air flow? Or would an AIO be better?

I am unfamiliar with AIO cooling in general and had no idea what to tell him.

poisonpill posted:

Well, I upgraded from a 970 to a 2060 on a whim and now the computer does nothing when the power button is pressed. That’ll teach me to do anything.

Edit: Annnd it's fixed! Some wire must've come loose. Took stuff out and put them back in.

Stickman posted:

AMD CPUs do tend to go down in price over time (unlike Intel), so there's also no problem with holding on the 2600X for a few years and then upgrading to a 3600X or better when they're cheaper. It's unlikely that the 2600X will hold you back for a while yet.

Stickman posted:

There really shouldn't be much of a difference. Either way the actual heat dissipation is happening by blowing ambient air over heated fins, and unless you really go all out on AIO the cooling is going to be the same as good air coolers, just as with cooler ambient temperatures. Positioning the computer so it has access to the coolest air is much more important - keep it out of direct sunlight and close to the floor where the air is usually coolest, but make sure that it's in a well ventilated spot so it's not just sucking it's exhaust back in.