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Background PO of my 1996 XJ600 opened the stock mufflers, pulled out some baffling, and had them welded back. The bike runs fine, I've got the carbs tuned to the best possible performance. But the mufflers sound like rear end, they're loud and crackly and just... rear end. Lots of high-frequency to them, not a bit of nice rumble. I want to keep the current mufflers because replacement stockers are impossible to find and aftermarket ones are all too expensive or they're megaphones or loud or all three. I know what stock mufflers sound like, and I like them. Kind of deep and very quiet. At idle, the valves are louder. Question If I was to cut these open near the end of the can, how should I go about re-baffling them? Get some new inserts, wrap them with that fiberglass stuff, put them back in, and weld them up? I want them quiet, but if there was a way to get a little bit of a bass note, that would be cool. If not, that's ok, I just want them quiet. Alternately, anyone got a pair of slip-on cans that are quiet? HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Nov 24, 2014 |
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Nov 24, 2014 22:49
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Just slam a baffle into the exhaust tip first. You can find them on ebay, that'll probably help more/be cheaper than tearing the cans apart. (something liek this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-M...455d68a&vxp=mtr )
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Nov 25, 2014 00:11
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Into the muffler or header? Like pull the cans and shove those in the end that attaches to the header? edit: Or like this? 
HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Nov 25, 2014 |
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Nov 25, 2014 17:09
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Not that far! And the other way around!! That poor, poor bike. 
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Nov 25, 2014 17:53
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KARMA! posted:Not that far! What? quote:And the other way around!!  quote:That poor, poor bike.
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Nov 25, 2014 18:07
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Into the muffler or header? Like pull the cans and shove those in the end that attaches to the header? LOL In the muffler outlet, narrow end in. 
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Nov 25, 2014 18:22
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First complete answer. Thanks.
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Nov 25, 2014 18:28
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It's something to try, but really doubt you are going to be happy with that. It should help, but it'll still sound pretty awful and while quieter, it'll be a far cry from quiet. A quick search of ebay showed OEM cans from parted bikes in the $40-$50 range. Personally, I'd probably just bite the bullet and go that way. e: I know shipping can increase prices pretty fast. slidebite fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Nov 25, 2014 |
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Nov 25, 2014 18:33
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slidebite posted:It's something to try, but really doubt you are going to be happy with that. It should help, but it'll still sound pretty awful and while quieter, it'll be a far cry from quiet. What search terms are you using? I don't find a single set of cans for under $100. There's a couple single ones that are in the $49+ range, but most of them are bashed on the outside.
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Nov 25, 2014 18:39
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slidebite posted:It's something to try, but really doubt you are going to be happy with that. It should help, but it'll still sound pretty awful and while quieter, it'll be a far cry from quiet. We put a Leo Vince on my wife's beemer and with the baffle in, it whistles. So bad.
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Nov 25, 2014 19:34
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Chichevache posted:Actually, I have the exact same question. I'd like to paint the DRZ. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R2.TR4.TRC0.A0.H0.Xdrz+plastic&_nkw=drz+400+plastic+kit&_sacat=0 Less than the cost of paint+clear+tape+time.
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Nov 25, 2014 19:41
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clutchpuck posted:We put a Leo Vince on my wife's beemer and with the baffle in, it whistles. So bad. Like this?
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Nov 25, 2014 19:42
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Only in the morning.
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Nov 25, 2014 19:53
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SaNChEzZ posted:http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R2.TR4.TRC0.A0.H0.Xdrz+plastic&_nkw=drz+400+plastic+kit&_sacat=0 I still need to paint my gas tank because all the white ones I found are $250+.
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Nov 25, 2014 19:55
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clutchpuck posted:We put a Leo Vince on my wife's beemer and with the baffle in, it whistles. So bad.
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Nov 26, 2014 02:21
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Does it have flatslides? 
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Nov 26, 2014 04:22
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Is it the whistle that Suzuki Savages make? Oh my god that is the most annoying exhaust. I think https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSgYtmCnyYw
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Nov 26, 2014 07:38
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What is the big draw of the Duc 2v aircooled motors?
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Nov 26, 2014 08:40
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:
Sorry about enjoying myself on motorcycle subforum on a comedy forum. It wasn't malicious, we can all be unfunny and/or informative here, I'm not obligated to respond the way you want me to, etc.  clutchpuck posted:We put a Leo Vince on my wife's beemer and with the baffle in, it whistles. So bad. Mine does that too. I'd rather run with the baffle in but that drat whistle is too annoying. It makes my bike sound like the engine is made completely out of cymbals.
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Nov 26, 2014 11:29
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KARMA! posted:Sorry about enjoying myself on motorcycle subforum on a comedy forum. It wasn't malicious, we can all be unfunny and/or informative here, I'm not obligated to respond the way you want me to, etc.  Everyone should post the way I want them to.
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Nov 26, 2014 17:47
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BlackMK4 posted:What is the big draw of the Duc 2v aircooled motors? They're usefully torquey and have 'character' and they're very light compared to a comparable liquid cooled engine. That's it AFAIK.
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Nov 26, 2014 18:57
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They sound better with the right pipes and are easier to work on.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:58
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:They sound better with the right pipes and are easier to work on. I'm assuming you mean 'easier to work on in relation to a testastretta' and not 'easier to work on in relation to a comparable japanese engine'.
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Nov 26, 2014 20:49
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I didn't know there were any Japanese a/c v-twins left.
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Nov 26, 2014 20:54
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Slavvy posted:I'm assuming you mean 'easier to work on in relation to a testastretta' and not 'easier to work on in relation to a comparable japanese engine'. Eh, Ducati changed the valve maintenance interval to around 15k, which is comparable to a lot of Japanese motorcycles (from 10 years ago). I wouldn't put the difficulty much above working on something like a V-4 VFR from Honda, where the rear heads are sort of in "no man's land" and are still a relative pain to get to. Yes, the Desmo design is unorthodox and a relative pain to work on, but I'll forgive them for stretching it out to that long between intervals. It's much better than 7.5k and even better than some of the old Moto Guzzis I saw where it's somewhere around 3k (Rev feel free to correct me on this, my memory is literally that foggy). The enhanced maintenance intervals is principally why I'm saving up for a Monster 1200 at this point - you get the pretty of Italy and maintenance intervals of a Japanese machine, but you keep the random fires and electrical issues that makes Ducati so Ducati. I can't wait for my first break-down. 
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Nov 26, 2014 22:09
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I was meaning a 'comparable' engine like the SV650 compared to the midsized monsters, for example. I've never worked on a ducati so maybe all the claims of them being terrible are exagerrated? I really don't know.
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Nov 26, 2014 22:18
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The 999 is very well designed, and pretty simple to work on. Belts are about 30 minutes once you do it a few times. Haven't done a desmo valve adjust yet so no comment there, but the Testrastretta is much easier to work on than the 916 series desmoquattros. The shock design, tank mounts, etc, are are super simple and rather brilliant in terms of ease of working on.
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Nov 27, 2014 01:41
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Valve adjustments/checks really aren't a big deal. I dropped some cash on some MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Nov 27, 2014 |
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Nov 27, 2014 01:47
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I'm also getting the MBP retainers when the time comes for me to do a valve adjust... I fear blowing this one up.
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Nov 27, 2014 01:53
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A very rational and healthy fear for you.
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Nov 27, 2014 02:11
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The 2v Ducatis are not hard to do valves on compared to a DOHC 4v system like an SV650. Provided you have the thing you need to measure the magic shims. I've never done valves on a 4v Ducati.
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Nov 27, 2014 02:18
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Ripoff posted:Eh, Ducati changed the valve maintenance interval to around 15k, which is comparable to a lot of Japanese motorcycles (from 10 years ago). I wouldn't put the difficulty much above working on something like a V-4 VFR from Honda, where the rear heads are sort of in "no man's land" and are still a relative pain to get to. Yes, the Desmo design is unorthodox and a relative pain to work on, but I'll forgive them for stretching it out to that long between intervals. It's much better than 7.5k and even better than some of the old Moto Guzzis I saw where it's somewhere around 3k (Rev feel free to correct me on this, my memory is literally that foggy). Yeah, but you can do the Guzzi valves while sitting on the bike, which changes the equation a bit. FWIW Aprilia do 12k service intervals with valve clearances done every other service on all their big bikes including the V4s. Unfortunately for all the many words you can use to describe the Tuono "pretty" definitely isn't one of them - although having said that the new-gen Monsters look a shitload more like the Shiver (designed by the same guy who did the OG Monster) than they do the old air-cooled Monsters - they're good looking but again not exactly pretty.
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Nov 27, 2014 14:29
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GS500 started getting stuck while starting. I'll hit the starter and it'll just sound like its jammed up. I'll roll it down the hill and let the clutch out and it will clunk and then the starter will work fine. The bike seems fine after that. It only happens when it hasn't been running for a day or so. Any ideas what I can check on?
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Nov 28, 2014 16:52
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Starter Solenoid or Starter clutch are not that unusual on a GS500. It starts from a roll correct? Have you checked the simplest things first like the battery? Do you get any clicks at all? Is the voltage high enough to actually turn over the bike. I had a similar issue with a battery with a bad cell. I replaced it with a Scorpion AGM battery and haven't had an issue starting since.
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Nov 28, 2014 17:46
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Minkee posted:Starter Solenoid or Starter clutch are not that unusual on a GS500. Well, it stopped doing it, so I cant keep after it until it starts again. Got another dumb question:  Is there an easy way to fix this, or at least keep it from getting worse? EDIT: Oops, sorry, tables! nitrogen fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Dec 1, 2014 |
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Dec 1, 2014 03:35
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Plastex or ABS welding.
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Dec 1, 2014 04:16
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On the 'keep it from getting worse front' you can drill a hole at the very end of the crack to prevent it propagating further.
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Dec 1, 2014 08:00
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Bike acts like it has warped rotors but as soon as I sand the pads lightly on a flatblock the brakes go perfectly smooth. If I track the bike the brakes are smooth. If I ride the bike hard the brakes are smooth. If I commute the brakes act warped after a few days. Wtf?
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Dec 1, 2014 17:29
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Are you running reasonably aggressive track pads? If track pads don't get hot enough, they start to deposit pad material unevenly and you get a "warped" feel.
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Dec 1, 2014 18:21
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I'm not sure what pads are in it. Presumably something stock since the bike has about 15k on it, but they could be something more track oriented since someone already adjusted the geometry to the usual 20mm above / 285 eye-to-eye before I bought it. Just confuses me that sanding the pads fixes the issue.
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Dec 1, 2014 18:25
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