|
clutchpuck posted:Sounds like your needle valve or float isn't working right and the engine is flooded. Anyhow, it's one carburetor, it won't be a huge deal to clean off and fix. So I'm messing with the carb? Fun! I'm going to go get myself in the right place  for this tribulation.
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 19:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 08:15 |
|
|
http://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE404-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSBM I have one of those and it works a lot better than using a plug against the frame.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 19:31
|
|
|
Chichevache posted:So I'm messing with the carb? Fun! I'm going to go get myself in the right place If you just accept that the venturi effect is a thing and don't question it, carburetors are pretty easy. You'll be surprised.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 19:39
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:If you just accept that the venturi effect is a thing and don't question it, carburetors are pretty easy. You'll be surprised. I don't know poo poo about carbs, so I'm just doing what a reputable source tells me to do until it either works, or gets more hosed. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:00
|
|
|
Yeah, so if the bike isn't starting and you have gas in the cylinder, then the fuel is probably not being stopped when the float bowl gets full and it's running down into your cylinder. The needle valve is what stops the flow of fuel. Sometimes, those needle valves simply stick - they get a little varnished or a piece of sand makes it through your tank and into the carb. Take the butt end of a screw driver and whack the float bowl on the carburetor a few times, that can dislodge it and then everything is hunky dory again without having to open everything up. If you got a bunch of gas in your cylinder already, you might want to change out that oil. The fuel can leak down into the case and dilute the oil.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:09
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:Yeah, so if the bike isn't starting and you have gas in the cylinder, then the fuel is probably not being stopped when the float bowl gets full and it's running down into your cylinder. The needle valve is what stops the flow of fuel. Sometimes, those needle valves simply stick - they get a little varnished or a piece of sand makes it through your tank and into the carb. Take the butt end of a screw driver and whack the float bowl on the carburetor a few times, that can dislodge it and then everything is hunky dory again without having to open everything up. This is the impresson I'm getting, especially because he said a bunch of fuel came out of the carb when he unplugged the feed line. I'd hesitate with the tapping idea though, I've never seen that work first-hand but I guess it's worth a try. Chive I'd just count on taking the carb to bits.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:28
|
|
|
Bloody Queef posted:This is the dumbest newbie mechanic question, I'm sure. Standing still, are you able to pump it back up to pressure? If not, and if there are no leaks, you either have not bled them properly or the master cylinder is shot. Bleeding can be tricky, so try it again, find some good instructions and follow them carefully. I think it will be obvious during bleeding if the master cylinder has failed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:34
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:This is the impresson I'm getting, especially because he said a bunch of fuel came out of the carb when he unplugged the feed line. I'd hesitate with the tapping idea though, I've never seen that work first-hand but I guess it's worth a try. Chive I'd just count on taking the carb to bits. I've seen it work like once, ever. But it's so easy to do, that's where I'd start.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:35
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:Yeah, so if the bike isn't starting and you have gas in the cylinder, then the fuel is probably not being stopped when the float bowl gets full and it's running down into your cylinder. The needle valve is what stops the flow of fuel. Sometimes, those needle valves simply stick - they get a little varnished or a piece of sand makes it through your tank and into the carb. Take the butt end of a screw driver and whack the float bowl on the carburetor a few times, that can dislodge it and then everything is hunky dory again without having to open everything up. gently caress. Well I was planning on changing the oil anyway, I just wanted to be able to warm the bike up first. Slavvy posted:This is the impresson I'm getting, especially because he said a bunch of fuel came out of the carb when he unplugged the feed line. I'd hesitate with the tapping idea though, I've never seen that work first-hand but I guess it's worth a try. Chive I'd just count on taking the carb to bits. Awesome. Well I wanted to learn, so here is my chance. I've got the service manual out in the garage with the bike, it should have all the info I need, right? clutchpuck posted:I've seen it work like once, ever. But it's so easy to do, that's where I'd start. My neighbor smacked it last week when I was having similar trouble.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:36
|
|
|
Ola posted:Standing still, are you able to pump it back up to pressure? If not, and if there are no leaks, you either have not bled them properly or the master cylinder is shot. Bleeding can be tricky, so try it again, find some good instructions and follow them carefully. I think it will be obvious during bleeding if the master cylinder has failed. Yes, standing still I can pump it back up to pressure. This is a stupid question, but in what way will it be obvious?
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:37
|
|
|
Chichevache posted:gently caress. Well I was planning on changing the oil anyway, I just wanted to be able to warm the bike up first. Yeah you should be ok. A word of warning: if you don't have a screwdriver that perfectly fits the screws, do not attempt disassembly. Go to a tool shop (with your carb in your hand) and purchase a decent screwdriver that fits perfectly or you will gently caress some screws and have a Bad Time. Fact. Then when it is time to disassemble, use a great deal of downward pressure whilst turning the screwdriver. Not doing so can result in even the best-fitting screwdriver slipping and loving the screws. They are seized in there by the fickle fingers of fate and once you break the corrosion seal, which will feel like a momentary snapping, the screws will wind out easily by hand. I've found that high quality modular driver thingies where you can swap on various bits seem to work better than individual screwdrivers.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:41
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Yeah you should be ok. A word of warning: if you don't have a screwdriver that perfectly fits the screws, do not attempt disassembly. Go to a tool shop (with your carb in your hand) and purchase a decent screwdriver that fits perfectly or you will gently caress some screws and have a Bad Time. Fact. Holy poo poo. reasonsToBuyFuelInjectedVehicles.txt
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:46
|
|
|
Radbot posted:Holy poo poo. reasonsToBuyFuelInjectedVehicles.txt Well yes, that and not having cold start issues, problems with parts sticking or clogging from varnish, and the ease of diagnosing by plugging in a code reader. The problem with the screws is less a carb issue than a Japanese-carbs-using-JIS-screws-not-Phillips-screws issue. JIS screws are a different standard that only looks like Phillips, and Phillips drivers have a habit of camming out and rounding out the head of JIS screws, totally loving you. You can gently caress up all sorts of things on Japanese bikes by using cheap Phillips drivers instead of proper JIS drivers, not just the carbs (it tends to happen on the carbs a lot because the screws are so small they're easier to strip though).
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:50
|
|
|
Bloody Queef posted:Yes, standing still I can pump it back up to pressure. This is a stupid question, but in what way will it be obvious? Not a stupid question, certainly when the advice I gave wasn't very clever. I'm not 100% sure as I haven't had a failed master cylinder myself, but if it was completely shot I think it would not be able to pump fluid out of the bleed valve, the pushrod would just move back and forth. Since you can pump it to pressure, I think you just still have air in the system. Since your bike is a single disc it shouldn't be too hard to do. I've had good luck pushing fluid into the bleeder valve with a syringe, it forces air upwards which is where buoyancy wants it to go anyway. You can get a kit like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Man-Brake-Bleeder-With-A-Brake-Fluid-Removal-Syringe-/271798466795 Or just a very simple syringe and hose like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100ML-Syringe-Tube-Plastic-for-Hydroponics-Nutrient-Measuring-/371123462954 Although I'm not sure that plastic tube will fit over the bleeder valve without tearing, I got a silicone one.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:54
|
|
|
Instead of finding the perfect JIS titanium dickhead screwdriver just replace the float bowl bolts with allen head bolts and never worry again.
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:54
|
|
|
Radbot posted:Holy poo poo. reasonsToBuyFuelInjectedVehicles.txt Most throttle bodies have screws made of cheese too, sorry. EDIT: and good loving luck diagnosing a no start or bad running from an intermittent or otherwise faulty injector. When I finally figured out that my injector was hosed it had already cost me a fruitless and expensive trip to the dealer garage (actually what convinced me to just do everything myself thereafter). Then I had to buy a replacement injector for nearly 40 quid on top of that. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Mar 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:57
|
|
|
Baller Witness Bro posted:Instead of finding the perfect JIS titanium dickhead screwdriver just replace the float bowl bolts with allen head bolts and never worry again. This is my plan with the carbs on my 'oldwing. Thinking of going out to the garage to finally start yanking the carbs so I can clean them up and start replacing all the cheesemetal screws today.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:57
|
|
|
Ola posted:Not a stupid question, certainly when the advice I gave wasn't very clever. I'm not 100% sure as I haven't had a failed master cylinder myself, but if it was completely shot I think it would not be able to pump fluid out of the bleed valve, the pushrod would just move back and forth. Since you can pump it to pressure, I think you just still have air in the system. Since your bike is a single disc it shouldn't be too hard to do. I've had good luck pushing fluid into the bleeder valve with a syringe, it forces air upwards which is where buoyancy wants it to go anyway. Just replace your bleeder screws with speed bleeders. I bleed my front brakes and clutch twice a month and it's easy as poo poo like this.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 20:59
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Yeah you should be ok. A word of warning: if you don't have a screwdriver that perfectly fits the screws, do not attempt disassembly. Go to a tool shop (with your carb in your hand) and purchase a decent screwdriver that fits perfectly or you will gently caress some screws and have a Bad Time. Fact. This is just another of the countless times you've probably saved my rear end while working on this bike, before I even got to the point where I would have hosed something up. Thanks. And of course thanks to everyone else as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 21:00
|
|
|
Baller Witness Bro posted:Instead of finding the perfect JIS titanium dickhead screwdriver just replace the float bowl bolts with allen head bolts and never worry again. This. BlackMK4 posted:Just replace your bleeder screws with speed bleeders. I bleed my front brakes and clutch twice a month and it's easy as poo poo like this. And especially this. They're cheap and amazing.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 21:03
|
|
|
Ola posted:Not a stupid question, certainly when the advice I gave wasn't very clever. I'm not 100% sure as I haven't had a failed master cylinder myself, but if it was completely shot I think it would not be able to pump fluid out of the bleed valve, the pushrod would just move back and forth. Since you can pump it to pressure, I think you just still have air in the system. Since your bike is a single disc it shouldn't be too hard to do. I've had good luck pushing fluid into the bleeder valve with a syringe, it forces air upwards which is where buoyancy wants it to go anyway. Thanks, I'll try this and report results.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 21:05
|
|
|
So this is a fun one. I've got an 01 SV650S that just will not start anymore. Not getting any dash lights or anything. I unscrewed and reseated the battery terminals, battery is ~2 months old and the bike has been ridden regularly, fuses are all good, every connection that I've looked at seems solid. While in motion, the bike has been known on occasion to sputter and all the lights to flicker, as well the tach and speedo will fly from one end to the other like the drat thing is haunted and the digital odometer will blank out. the whole bike has also shut down at a stoplight twice before this. Full shutdown, engine, dash lights, headlights, everything. I went out to go start the bike up and the terminals started flipping out as described above and the engine was running erratically. I blipped the throttle and it immediately died and I can no longer get any power going at all. Edit: SV650, where you either learn how to troubleshoot electrical issues or die trying. I've never seen that much poo poo happen all at the same time. ArbitraryTA fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Mar 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 21:21
|
|
|
Wiggle the wiring and the key in the ignition switch, see if you get any life. Sounds like either your key switch is getting tired or some wiring chafed bare on something, somewhere. Is the key on the triple clamp somewhere or fixed to the fairing? If it's on the triple, follow the wires where it passes by the steering head. That's a common spot for wiring or cables to get damaged.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 21:37
|
|
|
HotCanadianChick posted:Well yes, that and not having cold start issues Well, having *different* cold start issues... 
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 21:44
|
|
|
Radbot posted:Holy poo poo. reasonsToBuyFuelInjectedVehicles.txt   I've been putting off cleaning the carbs on my Ninjette for over a year now. It's super cold-hearted during the winter and I always resolve to fix that as soon as it gets warm, but... once the weather warms up it starts fine and I could be riding with that time. And none of the screws on the carbs are currently stripped.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 21:45
|
|
|
Chichevache posted:This is just another of the countless times you've probably saved my rear end while working on this bike, before I even got to the point where I would have hosed something up. Thanks. No worries  clutchpuck posted:Wiggle the wiring and the key in the ignition switch, see if you get any life. Sounds like either your key switch is getting tired or some wiring chafed bare on something, somewhere. Is the key on the triple clamp somewhere or fixed to the fairing? If it's on the triple, follow the wires where it passes by the steering head. That's a common spot for wiring or cables to get damaged. Listen to this man. Oh and buy a $10 multimeter like chive did.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 22:05
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:Wiggle the wiring and the key in the ignition switch, see if you get any life. Sounds like either your key switch is getting tired or some wiring chafed bare on something, somewhere. Is the key on the triple clamp somewhere or fixed to the fairing? If it's on the triple, follow the wires where it passes by the steering head. That's a common spot for wiring or cables to get damaged. I was checking the fusebox just to see if maybe the fuse blew for the ignition system and it looks like the PO put a 15 in the 10 slot for ignition. I wouldn't be surprised if a voltage fluctuation messed something up. Wiggling the key didn't do much and wiggling wires hasn't seemed to do much either.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 22:14
|
|
|
Check battery voltage first. New doesn't mean not broken.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 22:35
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Well, having *different* cold start issues... 
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 22:40
|
|
|
okay, two stupid questions. first, is there any way i can clean the decals on one side of this thing? I tried window cleaner and it didnt do anything.  Second, has anyone put one of these things on? http://www.g2ergo.com/store/g2-street-tamer-throttle-tube/ It sounds like a good idea, but it seems really expensive, so i'm curious if anyone else has tried one and had good experience with it?
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 23:30
|
|
|
You let your Ducati get dirty?! Shameful. If you can't find a girl in a bikini to clean it in a competition style event, I'm afraid you're just going to have to buy a new one.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2015 23:39
|
|
|
nitrogen posted:
My question would be "why?". Here I am having just put a R1 throttle tube on my Duc for shorter throw. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 00:00
|
|
|
nitrogen posted:Second, has anyone put one of these things on? http://www.g2ergo.com/store/g2-street-tamer-throttle-tube/ EFI Vstar guys would swear by these. It's a band-aid for unrefined fueling. If you can do a ECM flash for the same sort of dollars or less, that's a better option.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 00:29
|
|
|
Day Man posted:You let your Ducati get dirty?! Shameful. If you can't find a girl in a bikini to clean it in a competition style event, I'm afraid you're just going to have to buy a new one. It'll be bikini weather here within a month so I will keep that in mind.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 02:05
|
|
|
 How do I get the piece that would normally align the lower bearing off? The piece that is flush with the lower triple clamp. Also, how do I get the bearing that is in the steering head of the frame off? AllBalls sent me brand new ones to go in the frame!
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 05:56
|
|
|
If it's not damaged, I'd leave it - otherwise, Dremel it off, and freeze the bottom triple, and heat the new bearing race to get it on the triple.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 06:01
|
|
|
The race pressed on the steering stem you can cut off with a dremel carefully. I cut a nice notch into mine then used a punch to break it. Don't cut all the way through and you'll be alright. You should be able to use a punch to knock the race out of the frame itself. On my FZ1 there was a notch that let you get at the rear surface of the race. You can get it started and then tap it out. Try to keep it even as it comes out but it shouldn't be that difficult.
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 06:03
|
|
|
Yeah youtube makes it look really easy to take out the cups (race that is in the head). The frame I'm working with has been sitting in a shed for ten years and it's proving more difficult. Z3n, that part isn't damaged but it is a different size/shape than the bushing that AllBalls sent me to go with the rest of the bearing so I figured I should replace it with theirs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 06:10
|
|
|
Ahh yeah if it's a different type then you need to swap it, just take it slow and you'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 06:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 08:15 |
|
|
You also don't need to dick around with heating/cooling to get the new races in/on. You can do them by carefully tapping them with a brass drift.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2015 06:42
|
|