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nsaP posted:Astoundingly astute from a man who buys correct parts made incorrectly. Got nothing better to do today?
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Mar 17, 2015 07:37
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ChewedFood posted:I didn't know multimeter guy was on an SV650s! I went with a friend to un winterize his bike today (SV650s) and even with a freshly charged battery (been on the tender for a few months) it wouldn't work. It just clicked the first time then everything turned off. I decided we didn't tighten the battery terminals enough. Nope. Then I decided it was a fuse. Nope. Buy a multimeter, jesus.
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Mar 17, 2015 07:44
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All SV models sold by Suzuki should come standard with a 10 dollar multimeter for when they inevitably have weird as gently caress electrical poo poo happen to them.
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Mar 17, 2015 10:40
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ArbitraryTA posted:All SV models sold by Suzuki should come standard with a 10 dollar multimeter for when they inevitably have weird as gently caress electrical poo poo happen to them. I think it's cute how between the TL and the SV Suzuki went way beyond the "Oh hey let's make a V twin" thing most of the Japanese manufacturers did in the 90s/00s and really tried their best to give their buyers a full Fine Italian Motorcycle Experience.
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Mar 17, 2015 10:49
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Questions for fellow Gen II FZ1 owners, what's a good place to tap into switched power for grip warmers? Also, are there any good service manuals you would recommend?
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Mar 17, 2015 14:47
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Z3n posted:Buy a multimeter, jesus. I own one but didn't want to go home to get it. When we went to buy the battery I forced him to buy one also. I am not multimeter guy.
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Mar 17, 2015 14:57
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Motorcycle Question Thread II: Just buy a multimeter already.
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Mar 17, 2015 15:06
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http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-46-range-digital-multimeter-w-pc-interface/2200039.html#start=13&sz=12 QUICK before radioshack dies for good.
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Mar 17, 2015 15:13
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ChewedFood posted:I own one but didn't want to go home to get it. When we went to buy the battery I forced him to buy one also. I am not multimeter guy. Ah, alrighty then. 
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Mar 17, 2015 16:27
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Can anyone recommend a motorcycle shipping service for shipping a Ducati Monster across the US? Or are they all pretty much the same? I've never done this before but want to know if there are any notoriously bad or famously good shippers. My old housemate who moved away a year ago is finally getting his Monster 620 shipped out to him. I'll somewhat miss being its "caretaker" (rider  ).
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Mar 17, 2015 18:23
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Friends have had pretty good luck with uship.com and looking at the reviews.
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Mar 17, 2015 18:28
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I think it's cute how between the TL and the SV Suzuki went way beyond the "Oh hey let's make a V twin" thing most of the Japanese manufacturers did in the 90s/00s and really tried their best to give their buyers a full Fine Italian Motorcycle Experience. Considering the TL1000R was intended to win WSBK races but turned out to be a hopeless dud because of endless compromising re-designs, I think they actually outdid the Italians there.
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Mar 17, 2015 18:55
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Slavvy posted:Got nothing better to do today? I was working on my bike but I had a bit of extra free time because my correct parts fit without modification.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:12
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I have a dumb carburetor question. Basically, I know I need my floats and needles replaced. My bike is having fuel flow related problems including uneven accelerating and back firing. It seems obvious, but I want to know if the floats are causing this problem and if replacing them will fix it, or not.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:20
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Wizard of Smart posted:I have a dumb carburetor question. Basically, I know I need my floats and needles replaced. My bike is having fuel flow related problems including uneven accelerating and back firing. It seems obvious, but I want to know if the floats are causing this problem and if replacing them will fix it, or not. Do they have holes in them? If not, they are not broken. It could be that it needs adjustment or that the float needle or valve is worn out and it could be that it comes as a single assembly, but chances are the actual floaty bits are ok. My dad's old two stroke moped had a punctured float. The symptom is basically that the float sinks into the carb, fails to close the fuel supply and the carb overflows. What symptoms are you getting?
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Mar 17, 2015 19:23
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It takes a lot of miles to wear out needles, so I'd be surprised if you need to replace those. Depending on the sort of backfiring your talking about it can be indicative of lean or rich conditions. Stuff like that can sometimes be leaks in the carb boots or other non carb related intake problems. Have you actually taken the carbs off the bike yet? Like Ola said, floats needing replacement isn't terribly common. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that you need to have someone help you w/ your bike or maybe make a thread with some more specific details.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:28
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Ola posted:Do they have holes in them? If not, they are not broken. It could be that it needs adjustment or that the float needle or valve is worn out and it could be that it comes as a single assembly, but chances are the actual floaty bits are ok. The carb constantly overflows as well, in addition to the other symptoms listed. So much so that I have to remove the fuel hose and plug it up with a rubber stopper or I'll lose the entire tank.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:28
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Overflows when riding? You really should consider making a thread about your bike. Old bike carbs really aren't designed to stop fuel when parked. You need to shut the petcock off everytime you park it.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:30
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n8r posted:Overflows when riding? Even shut, which is how I know I need a new petcock as well. As far as a thread about the bike, I might make one when I get back from my trip and have enough money to actually start working on it.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:31
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Given the bike you're dealing with you should consider selling it for parts and just saving that money to buy a properly running bike. Old small displacement bikes suck.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:33
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n8r posted:Given the bike you're dealing with you should consider selling it for parts and just saving that money to buy a properly running bike. Old small displacement bikes suck. This bike is important for personal reasons. So thats not an option.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:37
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I think you should give fixing it a go, if you want to spend some time and money wrenching. I checked ebay, petcocks are $15 and carb rebuild kits are $22. Add $50 or so for some cheap tools (if you don't have them already) and you will triple your motorcycle knownledge in short order.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:38
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Ola posted:I think you should give fixing it a go, if you want to spend some time and money wrenching. I checked ebay, petcocks are $15 and carb rebuild kits are $22. Add $50 or so for some cheap tools (if you don't have them already) and you will triple your motorcycle knownledge in short order. I actually have most of the tools I need because of a work raffle. 
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Mar 17, 2015 19:43
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Wizard of Smart posted:I actually have most of the tools I need because of a work raffle. Nothing for it then, get the petcock and rebuild kit and post a thread when you're ready! Other things to prepare: get the workshop manual for the bike, read forum posts about carb rebuilds if you find any on google. When you're ready to work on it, try to ride it so there's not too much fuel left - get a can or suitable container to pour the fuel into. When you remove the petcock, you get a chance to flush gunk out of the tank.
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Mar 17, 2015 19:58
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Ola posted:Nothing for it then, get the petcock and rebuild kit and post a thread when you're ready! Other things to prepare: get the workshop manual for the bike, read forum posts about carb rebuilds if you find any on google. When you're ready to work on it, try to ride it so there's not too much fuel left - get a can or suitable container to pour the fuel into. When you remove the petcock, you get a chance to flush gunk out of the tank. Tank has been replaced so the gunk issue isnt an issue! That's the first thing I did for the bike.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:02
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Fix one thing at a time. Hitting the problem scattergun is only going to make the problem(s) muddier and harder to resolve. Fix the petcock first, it shouldn't be difficult to fix and you can verify that it works easily. Then look at the floats, if they have holes then it should be obvious because they'll have fuel inside them. Make sure they move totally free and loose on their pivots, the buoyancy of these things is not exactly strong, any excess friction can top them putting enough pressure on the valve. Then check the valve that the float operates, it has a little conical rubber seal that doesn't need much crud to defeat. This seal is not intended to hold fuel for anything other than while the bike is running, a very slow overflow is normal if the bike is not running and the petcock is open. I you fixed all of this and you're still having a lot of pop and bang out of the exhaust, the next thing to check for is intake leaks. These can be easily detected with nothing more than starter spray or even WD40. Get the bike running and spray a little puff around the rubber intake boots that connect carb to motor. If the engine revs climb when you do this, you have air getting in after the carb, meaning you're running lean.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:10
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ReelBigLizard posted:Fix one thing at a time. Hitting the problem scattergun is only going to make the problem(s) muddier and harder to resolve. I'll check these. I have had it looked at and trust the guy who looked. He told me "You need to replace the float and needle valves." That's actually how I know those things exist. Edit: I say "looked at" when what I mean is "I had a mechanic come over and get it running in trade for an xbox 360" and after it was running he said "you need to replace the float and needle valves. Get those parts." as he was leaving.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:12
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These kits seem to include float valves and needles + much more...but only in the pic, not in the description. Might be worth asking the seller first unless you are getting them from a more detailed source. http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-81-HONDA-CM400A-CM400C-CARB-REPAIR-KIT-2-REPAIR-KITS-INCLUDE-CI-CM400ACR/141381421895
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Mar 17, 2015 20:36
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Ola posted:These kits seem to include float valves and needles + much more...but only in the pic, not in the description. Might be worth asking the seller first unless you are getting them from a more detailed source. Sweet. Also, the original question is still not really answered. Could failing floats and needles be the cause of my woes?
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Mar 17, 2015 22:07
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n8r posted:Old bike carbs really aren't designed to stop fuel when parked. You need to shut the petcock off everytime you park it. This makes no sense. If they overflowed while parked by design, they would overflow while riding too. There is functionally no difference between a running and not running engine as far as the float level is concerned (on a gravity fed carb, which it's safe to say this is). Wizard of Smart posted:Sweet. The answer is a resounding maybe. Take your carbs apart and see.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:12
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Slavvy posted:(on a gravity fed carb, which it's safe to say this is). (it is) Slavvy posted:
Okay!
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Mar 17, 2015 22:19
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There is literally no way someone can know you need new float bowls or needles unless he took the carbs apart.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:39
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nsaP posted:Astoundingly astute from a man who buys correct parts made incorrectly. ok someone needs to fill me in, this popcorn is a lot more interesting to me than my own whining about Italy.
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Mar 17, 2015 23:08
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nitrogen posted:ok someone needs to fill me in, this popcorn is a lot more interesting to me than my own whining about Italy.
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Mar 17, 2015 23:17
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Slavvy posted:Considering the TL1000R was intended to win WSBK races but turned out to be a hopeless dud because of endless compromising re-designs, I think they actually outdid the Italians there. TBF very few Italian bikes are ruined by compromising on design. Every single other thing, yes, but not compromising.
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Mar 17, 2015 23:20
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n8r posted:There is literally no way someone can know you need new float bowls or needles unless he took the carbs apart. Which he did when he cleaned them of water in them. Which was what was making it not run.
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Mar 17, 2015 23:56
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Water? In the floats? How was that dealt with exactly?
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Mar 18, 2015 02:15
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Dessicant packets
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Mar 18, 2015 02:34
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Water? In the floats? How was that dealt with exactly? Water in the carburetors. The quoted text said there was no way someone could tell me I needed new floats "unless he took the carbs apart." I figured the subject was clear enough when I quoted the text. There was water in the carburetors from a rust hole in the old tank. This was fixed by taking the carbs apart and cleaning them. During this process I was told "you will need to replace your floats and needle valves." That's why I asked specifically about the effects of failing floats and needles. I know they're bad. I just don't know if they're causing the issue.
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Mar 18, 2015 02:52
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I bought my wife a new car. She called and said, "There was water in the carburetor." I said, "Where's the car?" She said, "In the lake." -- Henny Youngman
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Mar 18, 2015 03:03
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