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In Montreal! Four T Rexes in Place Jacques Cartier is pretty AI I guess
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May 24, 2012 01:34
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Dumb old British car time  Got sick of these bumpers, going to unCanadianize everything before inspection: Bumpers, grill, and turn signal indicators.  A fair amount of rust here, I'll have to deal with the holes in the body as well from the side pieces.  I think I should stop putting off the seal replacement now.  There's also a poo poo tonne of leaks, this one is disconcerting.  Underneath the drivers side, does the grey stuff look like CV grease? Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jun 19, 2012 01:29
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 I always thought people were exaggerating a bit when they said old British cars leaked from the factory.
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Jun 19, 2012 01:53
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It's baaaaack! I missed the Mini, glad to see it getting some love with the good weather. 
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Jun 19, 2012 16:22
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It's going to get love alright, huge parts order is on the way. Going to check out this MK1 Golf/Rabbit with my brother, any thoughts or good resources? http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1982-VW-Rabbit-Hatchback-project-or-parts-car-OPEN-TO-OFFERS-W0QQAdIdZ378044650
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Jun 22, 2012 17:32
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Hey fellaaaas   My ~*STAGE ONE PERFORMANCE KIT*~ and bumpers are on there way as well. Pray for my bank account. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 14, 2012 04:22
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The Hi-Los aren't strictly necessary, if you know the ride height you want, you can machine the existing parts to suit. It's then fixed, though, and you can't raise it back up.
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Jul 14, 2012 16:53
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InitialDave posted:The Hi-Los aren't strictly necessary, if you know the ride height you want, you can machine the existing parts to suit. It's then fixed, though, and you can't raise it back up. The Spax dampers and Hi-Los were kitted together for a great price, plus I don't have access to a machine shop. The adjustability will be handy since the new suspension cones will drop quite a bit as they settle in.  Here's my Macgyvered choke cable  Lovely dents from the exhaust. I'll probably weld the notch close as the new exhaust is centre exit.  Soupy mess that is the boot. I'm thinking bedliner at the very least on the floor, I might do full mdf panels for it later.  One of the advantages of a leaky British car is that it'll automatically rustproof the engine bay area. The rear subframe has no such luck and is super loving knackered.  Exhaust is dropped aka I removed the Robertson screws and plumbing strap and bent everything down.  Fuel tank needs to be removed in order to access the top damper nut.  Rusted hose clamp (seriously, philips screw?) was a bother. Ended up tugging the line off and drained the gas into a couple of cans and all over my arms. You can also see my lovely welding job on the subframe spar.  Adjustable brake bias union thing with hardline removed. Good thing I sprayed everything in PB Blaster every day for a week. The parking brake cable needs to be removed (cut off in my case)  Then all you have to do is precariously balance the subframe on a jack, undo the 8 subframe bolts and voila! Some minor surface rust and pinholes but not too bad.  Protip: When 220 ft/lbs won't budge a bolt don't take a breaker bar to it. Sliding the whole subframe backwards and then down sucks more than just dropping it outright.  Flakey flakey  Here's the stupid piece of poo poo in all it's lovely glory.  The radius arms weigh like 30lbs each and probably makes up half the weight. I can definitely see why they have aluminum versions of the arms.  Rear rubber cone spring, adjustable aftermarket Hi-Lo and knuckle joint. They look pretty good, knuckle joints are almost brand new.  Rust rust rust. I wonder what the lefthand side looks like?  FUUUUUUUUUUUCK YOUUUUUUUUUU  Super perforated and the areas that aren't holey are paper thin.  Inside of the subframe spar.  Rear subframe mount or trunnion if you will.  Lines look alright but I ordered new ones because why not.  Backside of the brake assembly.  Both radius arms are covered in oil so the shaft seals have failed. How badly you ask? Let's take a look at the righthand side:  Some brinelling on the bearing side, okay...  This is why the "While I'm In There" mentality pays off sometimes as I bought rebuild kits with new shafts, seals, bushings and bearings in anticipation of something like this.
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Jul 24, 2012 01:11
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You can get new rear subframes for less than £170, I guess international shipping would be a bitch.
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Jul 24, 2012 15:02
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Depends on the dimensions.
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Jul 24, 2012 15:17
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doritos posted:You can get new rear subframes for less than £170, I guess international shipping would be a bitch.  Done and done.  Started to clean up the radius arms, forcibly removed the nylon cup.  I honestly couldn't tell what was part of the brake hose and what was part of the bracket. Propane torch and PB Blaster worked well. Also, tightening before loosening works wonders.  Subframe support pin was super stuck. If only I had something to fit into those holes and turn it...  Zip zip zip  Ended up chopping the whole shaft because gently caress it, I have replacements for everything. The other came off with some twisting.  RADIUS ARM BRACKET BOOOOOLTS  Nothing a cutting disc and 13500 rpm can't fix. Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
 Rounded the nut so I broke out the angle grinder again.
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Jul 27, 2012 05:13
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 Managed to get the broken bolt out by welding on a nut, it took me three tries but it worked.  New and old.  Everything checked out, it looks pretty good for a reproduction piece. Stripped off some of the lovely e-coating and did some seam welding.  Painted with some Rustoleum PROFESSIONAL GRADE paint. I unbolted the radius arm brackets as I have adjustable ones and painted the subframe area underneath as well.  I don't know what they sprayed but the undercoating is super gooey. Alternating between a paint scraper, wire wheel on a drill and knotted wire brush on an angle grinder.
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Aug 2, 2012 03:21
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 BrrrrRRRRRRRWHWWRRRRRRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEE  I managed to scrap most of the undercoating off, what was left flew all over my face.    Underside after painting and some seam sealer.  View of the battery box. I got 95% of the rust off, a lot of the metal is mottled from rust. I couldn't get any tools into the rear valance but I'll be replacing it with a fiberglass piece so I'm not too concerned. I sprayed everything just with multiple coats of RUSTOLEUM PROFESSIONAL, I don't want to deal with removing undercoating when the full restoration comes.  Subframe trunnions were wirewheeled and painted.  Putting the subframe in bare was way, way easier.  And in! New poly bushings from Minisport with new hardware from Minispares.  ...but not too easy. Thought I crossthreaded the bottom bolt, tried to force it and broke the captive nut. This is what it looked like after being jabbed with a screwdriver multiple times.  MUD  Nut welded it, welded in a half assed patch in because honestly that sill looks like poo poo anyways.  Parking brake compensator wheeled and painted.  WHRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR  Boot floor wirewheeled and cleaned up.  ...and painted. Yay, now my trunk contents won't be covered in bitumen!  Now we're moving our way towards the front of the car. Here's looking at the rear of the engine, on the bottom is where the gear selector rod attaches to the selector shaft on the engine via a metal collar. There are two roll pins here, removing one necessitated the removal of the exhaust pipe in order to fit a punch into place. The upper piece is a support rod for the gearchange and, as expected, it was rusted in place. I used a bare hacksaw blade for 30 minutes, gave up, bought a compact hacksaw frame and spent another 20 minutes sawing.  Aforementioned exhaust pipe. There's no room to fit a ratchet and wrench to undo the clamp, not to mention that you'd get tetanus just looking at those bolts.  So off came the manifolds along with a cornucopia of nuts and washers.  Looks like my repair didn't do much repairing. In my defence I was welding upside down and I didn't know I could undo an exhaust clamp to see the break better.  The intake and exhaust are cast as one piece, the new header and intake manifold are separate and will definitely flow a lot better.  I think that's varnished gas inside the intake?  The gearchange and rods were just covered in grease. Here it is soaking in Simple Green.  After a lot of scrubbing we can confirm that it's not made of chocolate pudding.  There was a huge amount of slop in the shifter, to the point where it was actually like stirring a wooden spoon in porridge. Replace these mounts and the roll pins should help, after that would be the cup and ball inside the gearchange.  Bottom plate for the gearchange, the hole pretty much means that I don't really need a gasket for it.  All together.  And ready to go back in.  The selector shaft on the engine has a rubber seal on it and is a prime spot for oil leaks. Since we're in the business of keeping as much oil in as a possible I'm putting in this repair kit. The alloy spacer will keep the selector shaft from flopping around and tearing the seal, hopefully eliminate any further leaks. The boot is to prevent debris from getting stuck but all it did was push against the collar and prevent me from seating in the roll pins SO HOW YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO PUT IT ON IS A GODDAMNED MYSTERY TO THE CIVILIZED WORLD. I tried for an hour, ended up slicing the boot off and it all banged in under 2 minutes. I might slide it on and sew it up later, who knows. The rear radius arms are out to have the new bearing races pressed in and reamed, after they're in the rear suspension and fuel tank will just need to be bolted back in. The front suspension is going to be overhauled with new cone springs, balljoints, tie rod ends, tie bars, lower control arms, bushings, shocks, pins and what have you. After that will come new engine gaskets, head gasket, water pump, hoses, alternator and other bits that I forget. I'm hoping to have everything done just in time for winter storage 
Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Aug 21, 2012 |
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Aug 21, 2012 03:12
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Are those headers cast iron? You're going to have to take them to someone if they are, or do a lot of reading before hand. CI is extremely difficult to weld. If not, you need to do much better prep.
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Aug 21, 2012 03:56
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Yeah I wouldn't attempt to weld cast, the repair was on the exhaust pipe coming off the manifold. The rust makes it all look like the same piece.
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Aug 21, 2012 04:00
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Imminent terrible decision time
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Aug 23, 2012 00:47
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Please don't, it looks like hell
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Aug 23, 2012 03:19
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You Am I posted:Please don't, it looks like hell amazing hell
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Aug 23, 2012 15:56
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Only if it's free.
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Aug 23, 2012 17:08
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Oh come on, you know there's nothing more expensive than a free car.
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Aug 23, 2012 19:31
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You can't post that and pass on it.
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Aug 23, 2012 19:56
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It's a 64 MG Midget. The front wheel emancipated itself on the track, owner didn't want to haul it home so my friend bought it off him then and there. 1098cc with a lot of fiberglass, spare parts and a hefty logbook. Most of the dents on the drivers side came out easily and the taillight area was pushed back into shape. It'll need a new front spindle, hub and associated parts for sure. I'm not sure how old the safety equipment is either and I'll have to check what it's classed for. He asked me if I want to go halfers on it and since he does have an extensive classic car collection I'm going to trust his judgement and assume it's not a complete pile. I haven't seen it in person yet but I think it'll be a good way to get into wheel to wheel racing with a prepped car and shared running costs . I'm just concerned it'll slowly bleed me dry. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Aug 23, 2012 |
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Aug 23, 2012 20:23
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:it'll slowly bleed me dry. It's an MG, that's kind of what they do.
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Aug 23, 2012 22:56
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Slowly? That's a street driven MG. 
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Aug 23, 2012 23:23
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 Ghoooooooosts  Here's one of the rear brake backing plates after a session with the ol' knotted wire cup.  Sprayed with some Rustoleum Professional paint.  And assembled, correctly I hope. Everything was lubricated with high temp brake grease.  Rear radius arm, pre beautification.  Lookit dem scales!  Ooooh yeah    yeaaaaaah LH side assembled. Fitted the new brake hose, bent a new piece of brakeline for the arm and bolted in the adjustable camber bracket.  Different angle.  Fuel tank bolted back into place with new rubber seals for the filler neck. Replaced the fuel line while I was at it and rerouted the fuel tank vent line.  Bottom view, I don't know why they routed it to the other end so I hope this will be ok as I want to use the original hole for the battery vent hose.  This is what the front rubber cone spring assemblies would look like with the new pieces on the left and old on the right. The knuckle joints on top fit into either the rear radius arms or the front UCAs and are basically metal spheres that swivel around inside nylon cups. The new cone on the left is supposed to be a bit stiffer than the regular cones, presumably because of it's shape. Because it's taller we need the Hi-Lo in order to restore the original ride height, however with these cones it's recommended that the big adjuster bolt be shortened by 3/4" if you want to lower the car further.  Out comes the chop saw, chop chop chop. Note that the magnet totally did not hold the bolt in place.   The chop saw clamp wasn't meant for anything this small so I used the vice. Even then the cuts came out crooked but I managed to fix them with a bench grinder so it's all good.  Notice a difference between the two washers?  The radius arm pivot has a washer and rubber seal on either ends like so:  The other arm was ok but on the RH arm the inboard seal kept sliding off. After an hour of frustration I found out that the inboard end of the arm is 3mm wider than the outboard end so the washer has to be 3mm bigger as well. If it's not, like in this case were they gave me TWO loving SMALL WASHERS, the seal will not stay on. Reused the old one, hey look everything fits.   I was able to slide the cone assembly from the inside for the LH side but here the battery box is in the was. Cue me balancing the radius arm, cone, and hi lo and sliding it all into place. 5 times  Here it is in place, the extension rods are needed for the rear but not the front.  Bonus camber bracket photo.   Tried to fit the rear windscreen seal but as you can see it's too twisted to stay in place. Up next, front suspension! 
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Sep 11, 2012 01:24
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gently caress I pulled the head off and had this staring back at me from cylinder number one. I can drag a finger nail on the gouges so I assume drill honing is out of the question. gently caress gently caress gently caress, having the block bored was not in the plan, if I leave it what kind of issues will I have? Oil blowby, low compression? Oh, all the pistons and bore look good other wise. Number 3 and 4 have a bit more carbon on the head but nothing else out of the ordinary. 
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Sep 14, 2012 03:15
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Edit: In retrospect, throwing a motorcycle engine in that thing is absurd and frankly not anywhere near a good idea as it sounds in my head. Ignore me.
MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Sep 14, 2012 |
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Sep 14, 2012 03:45
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What? No, a motorcycle engine would work just fine.
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Sep 14, 2012 05:24
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Yea, there are kits to do exactly that. In fact I think it was briefly discussed early on in this thread.
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Sep 14, 2012 05:37
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The plan is to to an R1 swap but that's several years and $8k away. I think I'm hosed either way, if I ignore it I'll just be super paranoid and I'll have to tear it down when it does go. The thing is it hasn't been drinking oil but the oil does get dark fast.
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Sep 14, 2012 17:36
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Options: pull it and drill hone it (time) rebore engine (time and $$$) replace engine with another (search time and maybe less $$$) swap engine for something else (time and maybe a lot more $$$) gently caress it, let's ride (nothing) I would just start putting monthly money in an envelope that says "Rad New Engine" on it. This isn't your DD after all. Look at it this way: unless you want to bore it out, you're ditching this engine either when it goes or right now. Might as well wring your money's worth out of it. 
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Sep 14, 2012 17:46
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Three of the pistons have FRONT M2039 C33T stamped and one has FRONT M2039 C18R. Guess which one is the odd one out? I could do a tear down and drill hone but I'd end up rebuilding the gearbox, upgrading the diff pin, put in an improved oil pickup and windage tray plus rings/crank bearings/etc because, you know, WHILE I'M IN THERE. Main bearings don't last all that long. I really, really, really want to track it (hence all the suspension bits) and I couldn't thrash it with good conscience. Time is not a huge issue with the approaching winter plus it's 95% ready for an engine pull. I'm waiting for my copy of David Vizards A-Series Bible TM so hopefully I'll have a better idea as to what I'm getting into. I also have a line in for a low mileage block for $200. Well actually $60, the rest is shipping  What's the going price for cylinder overbore work?
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Sep 19, 2012 02:48
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Just buy a new engine/gearbox assembly. A-Series are worthless, be they front or rear drive ones. Hell, might as well just import a rover metro front cut. Get yourself an A+
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Sep 19, 2012 04:46
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Hey Bulk, why are you getting a block from England? Is yours a 998? The for sale section of the Vancouver Mini Club (http://www.vancouverminiclub.ca/classifieds/) has listings from across Canada, and there are usually more than a few in Alberta...
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Sep 19, 2012 05:26
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:I couldn't thrash it with good conscience. B-b-but the carnage could be spectacular!
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Sep 19, 2012 13:55
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doritos posted:Just buy a new engine/gearbox assembly. A-Series are worthless, be they front or rear drive ones. If it's a 998, you can bore it out, but you're talking about a hundred thou at most, so it's a "save the engine" rebore rather than a modification for significantly more performance. If you want to keep it as-is for a while, I'd either ignore it and let it blow if it wants to, or do a budget rebuild. If you want to swap in a new engine, try what Captain McAllister suggested. If you want to throw caution to the wind, and want a good engine with massive parts availability in the US, put a VTEC lump in it.
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Sep 19, 2012 18:29
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Captain McAllister posted:Hey Bulk, why are you getting a block from England? Is yours a 998? The for sale section of the Vancouver Mini Club (http://www.vancouverminiclub.ca/classifieds/) has listings from across Canada, and there are usually more than a few in Alberta... Oh yeah, thanks! I browse it often but never thought of putting up an ad. Speaking of bike engine powered Minis this build is almost exactly the kind of car I want to build: http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/91311-1962-mk1-rebuild/
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Sep 21, 2012 03:38
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If you're going to put a bike engine in, use one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlrZBenmlo0 
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Sep 21, 2012 13:16
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Nah, he should totally get a V-max engine. It'll really sing when it doesn't have to lug around all that weight anymore
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Sep 21, 2012 13:37
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| # ? May 25, 2024 10:42 |
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2 stroke thumper. Did have a line on a $350 engine from calgary but the guy flaked out, going to build up my motor instead. Have been busy with work stuff, will post Mini progress photos soon.
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Oct 14, 2012 18:15
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