|
 So I guess I have a winter project now. I picked up this 1986 Volvo 740 Estate for the princely sum of $500, not bad for a wheezy beater. Let’s have a look shall we?  Only the finest in Nordic interior engineering with (currently non functioning) heated seats!  Fjord inspired dash!  Open air centre console!  Junk swallowing cargo area!  Granny friendly automa-oh, well that’s different. Ahem, carrying on.   Roof rack!  Custom dents!  Patina!  Sunroof for the topless hotties to stand through!  Patina! Patina!  Developing patina!  (gently caress, I totally did not see this poo poo)  Tow hitch when the kids have to haul your poo poo to the retirement home! And what’s pushing the soccer team to practice?  Economical 2.3L four cylinder!  With available dark coloured brake fluid!  (Formerly) decorative battery!  And…oh dear  1986 Volve 740 Turbo-Intercooled Estate with 5 speed manual  Right now it needs some welding, new tires, brake light troubleshooting and a working blower. With some minor work (Insha’Allah) the car will hopefully become a: -Bodywork/roller paintjob test board -Reliable winter ride -Cargo/car hauler -Camping support vehicle -rear end tearing drag racing sleeper Wheel changing headaches tomorrow! Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Nov 3, 2009 |
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 01:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 07:49 |
|
|
It's awesome because all those things you listed it should be, will be. Man, that thing is tight. With simple chipping and bolt-on crap you can get the B230FT in that thing to around 200whp. A guy I know and talk to managed to get his to 300 on pump gas but he's insane, just like his car. Grats on the purchase! That's an absolutely ridiculous price! Hopefully we'll be able to take over AI with our Volvoness. Because we all know that the redblock is the toughest engine ever designed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 02:41
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Because we all know that the redblock is the toughest engine ever designed. The slant 6 would like a word with you.  These come with turbos though, so I suppose I'll let it slide.Goddamn, I want that wagon. My best friend's dad had one of those back when we were in grade school, and he'd do ridiculous batman-esque fishtailing turns into the driveway. I loved the poo poo out of that car, and all the Volvo love here in AI as of late isn't helping matters any. VV - I thought that weird button on the gearshift controlled the switch into 5th? 
Nuevo fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Nov 3, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 02:47
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:5 speed manual
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 02:50
|
|
|
That's a lot of corrosion, but given your welding skills as demonstrated on the Mini, I don't think it'll be too much trouble for you to rectify it. Is there a lot of play in the turbo?
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 03:30
|
|
|
I want it. Are both of the heated seats broken? It might just be something inside the seat - I've done heated seat repairs on a bunch of cars where that's happened.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 03:35
|
|
|
I believe that switch is to engage the reverse, like the ring on diesel engines.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 03:44
|
|
|
Grandmas rocket wagon? You had me excited for a vista cruiser 
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 03:45
|
|
|
Sh4 posted:I believe that switch is to engage the reverse, like the ring on diesel engines. The switch in the middle of the gear selector? Nah, it engages the electric overdrive/"5th gear" component of the M46 transmission. There's a collar on the shifter lever that you pull up on to engage reverse.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 03:47
|
|
|
sadnessboner posted:Grandmas rocket wagon? You had me excited for a vista cruiser I thought it was a LT1 B-Body (Caprice or Roadmaster) 
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 04:32
|
|
|
Careful with that transmission. If you shift too hard, the wiring will tear and the knob will come off and you will punch yourself in the face while going through an off ramp. Ahem. It's really just the wire and a screw holding it on. I had an '89 740 Ti and it was a blast. The transmission is quite strong, despite the wacky electrofifth. The vintage electronic heated seats were also toasted and it had the same hole in the dash. I miss that thing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 04:52
|
|
|
sadnessboner posted:Grandmas rocket wagon? You had me excited for a vista cruiser Grandma sips lattes and eats arugula.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 05:05
|
|
|
If the ladies don't flock to you, its because they have no taste.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 05:05
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:-Bodywork/roller paintjob test board The only test board this should be is testing how the sandblaster functions. You'll still punch through in half a dozen places or more though so g'luck with that one 
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 05:09
|
|
|
I didn't realize it was a Canadian car until I saw the Motomaster battery. Our cars have the best patina
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 07:50
|
|
|
Just remember that the fifth gear activated via button is no different than any other gear: clutch in and press when shifting in and out of it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 09:27
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Just remember that the fifth gear activated via button is no different than any other gear: clutch in and press when shifting in and out of it. Didn't you just learn how to drive a manual less than a week ago? ps stop giving volvo advice if you are gonna pay a shop to do everything for you (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 09:42
|
|
|
I like having cars that work. When I'm out of college I can have all the time in the world to fix up cars myself, but having no garage, working full time, and going to school full time doesn't give me any options at all for hobbies, especially if they're the ones that also get me to my livelihoods. What it does give me is money for other people to do it for me. Right now I have a nice, safe car with things I can slowly work on without it making GBS threads itself and leaving me stranded. Sorry if I'm not a true glutton for punishment. And who gives a gently caress if I started driving manual a week ago? It's still proper advice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 11:31
|
|
|
I wish the bosses's 945 Turbo had a stick and an intercooler.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 17:09
|
|
|
Crispulus posted:I wish the bosses's 945 Turbo had a stick and an intercooler. I'm pretty sure it does have an intercooler. Definitely no stick though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2009 19:58
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:It's awesome because all those things you listed it should be, will be. With a manual boost controller and boost gauge I can crank it up to 1 bar and push out ~220hp. Freds chip is supposed to be good for 280hp by itself but I still have to read into that. 82Daion posted:That's a lot of corrosion, but given your welding skills as demonstrated on the Mini, I don't think it'll be too much trouble for you to rectify it. The major problem areas are an easy fix, the cosmetic stuff can wait till spring. Haven't checked the shaft play yet, do I just have to pull the charge pipe off and check for axial movement? Seat Safety Switch posted:Are both of the heated seats broken? It might just be something inside the seat - I've done heated seat repairs on a bunch of cars where that's happened. I think so, it's most likely the wiring going into it and not the element itself. It's on the to do list. Hog Obituary posted:Grandma sips lattes and eats arugula. I don't know my car stereotypes that well Naky posted:The only test board this should be is testing how the sandblaster functions. You'll still punch through in half a dozen places or more though so g'luck with that one It's solid for a 23 year old rustbelt car and I, erm, enjoy welding Money Walrus posted:Didn't you just learn how to drive a manual less than a week ago? Hey, let's stop making GBS threads up my thread.  Box of spare parts. Something tells me I should keep an eye on the relays and window switches.  Garage was cleaned up after the Mini went sleeping beauty. I should really strap the bike frame down.  Here's proof that the Volvo isn't a complete rustbucket.  As you can see the drivers side tires are incapable of holding air...  And the front tires are pretty much gone so they'll have to come off.  Ha ha hooooooo boy. Non matching front and rear sets I can do but this is just asking for trouble. The set of 14s will be getting snow tires soon.  The Virgo Marys started weeping oil because my 5 foot cheater bar did jack squat.  I ate some candy while I waited. The nuts came off but the wheel was ridiculously stuck on, like "Immune to deadblow hammer/kicking/sobs" stuck. So out came the Brute.  The Brute knows what's up.  The wirewheel and anti-seize made an appearance. The front ones came off relatively easy but the rear wheels were even worse. Even after wailing on them with the 20 lb sledgehammer, bending my scissor jack and being lit on fire (accidentally, I keep forgetting that penetrating lubricant is flammable) they're still stuck. I bought a bottle jack to push the wheels off the hub. Failing that, clutch dumps inside the garage.  This is what I get for inspecting a car in the dark. It didn't feel that bad but I think you know how this is going to turn out.   Drivers side is completely solid so   I forgot about the storage bins too...  Front wheel well is good!  Rear...not so much.  : The hole was riveted over with some aluminum pie plate! : The hole was riveted over with some aluminum pie plate. There, I fixed it Not that apathetic. Yet. Looks like that's the worst of it and it should be an easy fix. Welder is coming out of retirement this weekend as we will be seeing double digit temperatures, which is just bizarro for November. Also, gently caress galvanic action.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 00:29
|
|
|
Bulk, your threads are a pleasure to read. drat though, 2 rust traps in a row? That undercarriage shot... wow.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 04:06
|
|
|
If the back wheels are still stuck, loosen the nuts and try to catch some air off a speed bump.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 04:43
|
|
|
Wouldn't it maybe be cheaper just to find a rust free body and swap it over? It's not a terribly rare car.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 05:09
|
|
|
deratomicdog posted:Wouldn't it maybe be cheaper just to find a body that doesn't exist and swap it over? fixed Bulk, you told us it had a rust-free undercarriage! In all caps! Now I'm taking poo poo because I said to my roommate "No, Bulk doesn't have to be lying, it could be rust-free if it was well-kept." Does your rear rotor have a drum e-brake inside it? Mine did and it was seized in there like a motherfucker on both sides of the car. The Brute looks pretty sweet, but I think a 3-pound sledge with a solid metal handle is the perfect balance of length, weight, and "hit it at every angle with every part of the hammer". Also, the seat heaters: likely wiring as the usual issue is accidentally running the seat over the heater wires while they're sitting across the seat track. And I still think that car looks pretty tits. Just needs some black leather.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 07:00
|
|
|
rhombus posted:If the back wheels are still stuck, loosen the nuts and try to catch some air off a speed bump.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 07:31
|
|
|
You Am I posted:If he does that, the whole car will collapse with all the rust. Volvo, Holden, not so different, after all.  So, what's with Micallef?
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 07:38
|
|
|
ssh posted:Volvo, Holden, not so different, after all. Speaking of which, early holden wheels will fit a Volvo and vice versa! (not that Vanderhuge will benefit any from that advice  )I feel sory for the snow crowd, Ive got 2 cars well over twice the age of the Volvo and no rust on either I still want your Mini though!
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 08:06
|
|
|
Nice car. From my experience with two non-turbos of that year, the wiring harness is crap and potentially dangerous if it is original. I really miss mine now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 08:27
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:
HAH! I know all about this kind of stuff.  On the bright side at least now you know why it was so cheap, and that no one got ripped off.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 09:53
|
|
|
Bulk to get those rear rims off you'll need to use some heat. Heat up the rim around the bolt holes and then beat on it with the Brute. I had to do this on an old Escort once. The other comedy option is something we did to my friends Impreza to get his rims off in a parking lot. Hook up a crank strap to each wheel with the other end of each strap going around a post or tree. Carefully crank each side evenly until there is a lot of pull on each rim and then go to town on them with the brute. Make sure the car is resting on some pretty sturdy jack stands for this because once one of the rims comes off it may shift. Also this really only gets you one rim off. 8ender fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Nov 4, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2009 13:09
|
|
|
Sten Freak posted:Bulk, your threads are a pleasure to read. Aw shucks  It's not that bad, all things considered. rhombus posted:If the back wheels are still stuck, loosen the nuts and try to catch some air off a speed bump.  deratomicdog posted:Wouldn't it maybe be cheaper just to find a rust free body and swap it over? It's not a terribly rare car. Easier? Maybe. Cheaper? No. Plus I have a bottle of shielding gas to use up! Splizwarf posted:Bulk, you told us it had a rust-free undercarriage! In all caps! Now I'm taking poo poo because I said to my roommate "No, Bulk doesn't have to be lying, it could be rust-free if it was well-kept." Ok wellll it was dark and sitting in foot high grass. For a winter driven local car it is in relatively good condition so you can tell your roommate to shut it Yep, the internal drum e-brake needs some adjusting though. Heater connectors look okay so far. You Am I posted:If he does that, the whole car will collapse with all the rust.  It's patina!Parabellum posted:Speaking of which, early holden wheels will fit a Volvo and vice versa! Dry climates!CharlesM posted:Nice car. From my experience with two non-turbos of that year, the wiring harness is crap and potentially dangerous if it is original. I really miss mine now. That's what I've been told, crossing my fingers though! 8ender posted:The other comedy option is something we did to my friends Impreza to get his rims off in a parking lot. Hook up a crank strap to each wheel with the other end of each strap going around a post or tree. Carefully crank each side evenly until there is a lot of pull on each rim and then go to town on them with the brute. Make sure the car is resting on some pretty sturdy jack stands for this because once one of the rims comes off it may shift. Also this really only gets you one rim off. I briefly considered doing this with a garage stud but thankfully decided against it. Rogz posted:HAH! Hello bondo-filled British rust buddy  ! Now I just wish I talked him down on the price some more. WHO'S THE BITCH NOW BITCH? Strapped a smaller piece of plywood on so I could actually go John Henry on the wheel itself and not the tire. I'm dumb.  The body's not that bad people, cut me some slack. Or at least toss me some pity my way.  F1 level engineering solutions here, clearly.  Conclusive proof that the rest of the passenger rear wheel well is solid. (Please don't prove me wrong later)  Aluminum oxide fields.  Did anyone else play with those paleontology kits where you get a hammer and chisel and chip away at this glued together pebble block to find plastic dinosaur fossils? I remember piecing this Stegosaurid together. Man, that was fun.  I actually found those red tie downs in the back along with other junk. I guess someone was looking for a house.  Ah the CH-146, such an inadequate replacement.  Am I supposed to light these or eat them?  So time to yank the blower motor out. I love the fact that I only took out 4 screws to get to this point.  Hooray seat storage!  The ECU had to come out. And no, the rust you see isn't that bad.  Please don't have dead rat carcasses, please don't have dead rat carcasses.  15 minutes of work! Now to find a cheap replacement. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Nov 5, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2009 00:54
|
|
|
Parabellum posted:I feel sorry for the snow crowd, Ive got 2 cars well over twice the age of the Volvo and no rust on either Not too much I hope, a $100K house there is over $1M here.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2009 01:54
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:I'm pretty sure it does have an intercooler. Definitely no stick though. WOW! We looked. And by George it does! Yeah, Did Canuck versions of this car get that? (the stick)
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2009 02:53
|
|
|
Parabellum posted:Speaking of which, early holden wheels will fit a Volvo and vice versa! Some ferrari and maserati wheels run the 5x4.25 stud pattern too
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2009 03:28
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:That wiring harness looks quite sturdy to me. Or does the insulation get brittle and flake off. The modern "well we're running X gauge wire which is good for exactly 3.5 amps and we're putting 3450ma through it constantly." approach scares me. Yours seems to be properly over-engineered. Sponge! fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Nov 5, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2009 03:36
|
|
|
Faster, even, then the much-touted 16 valve Saab turbo. Don't believe it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2009 04:06
|
|
|
Sponge! posted:That wiring harness looks quite sturdy to me. Or does the insulation get brittle and flake off. The modern "well we're running X gauge wire which is good for exactly 3.5 amps and we're putting 325ma through it constantly." approach scares me. Yours seems to be properly over-engineered. I think you're missing a digit there. 0.325A through a circuit designed for 3.5A would be sufficiently over-engineered, I think.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2009 04:25
|
|
|
Raluek posted:I think you're missing a digit there. 0.325A through a circuit designed for 3.5A would be sufficiently over-engineered, I think. Indeed. Fixed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2009 04:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 07:49 |
|
|
It would have just been easier to say 3.45A originally, no?
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2009 04:46
|
|
