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Wanted to go for a ride but the bike's electrics were completely dead. Battery gives ~2v. After disconnecting the battery I measured the resistance between the wire loom's terminals and it's infinite with the ignition off, which suggests no parasitic drain. With another battery the bike fired right up; freak battery failure or something else? Haven't had any symptoms before this. Also, I haven't yet tried if this battery will still hold a charge.
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Sep 18, 2015 21:37
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 01:33 |
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My car did that. Worked fine, drove it to work and back, and then went back out to do an errand. Car wouldn't start, battery flat. It wouldn't even hold enough of a charge after jumping to act normally - rolling down a window would kill the ignition while the engine was running. That was fun to do while driving. It was a bad battery, replaced it and no hiccups since. poo poo happens.
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Sep 18, 2015 21:53
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Yeah I guess it's bad luck, second Yuasa I've had fail this year though, the one I had in the Buell decided to release a cloud of yellow particles under the seat (but worked fine otherwise). Thankfully my neighbor's gsxr600's battery fit.
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Sep 18, 2015 22:15
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Don't forget to tell your neighbor.
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Sep 18, 2015 22:35
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They'll find out.
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Sep 18, 2015 22:38
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Z3n posted:Hamas - check the clutch/kickstand kill sensors. Exhibits the same behavior starting it with the stand down and clutch out if the bike is in neutral which would appear to rule out both those things. I suspect the relays are solid state and have no moving parts making intermittent failure unlikely. Zeroing in on a possible bad starter button. Will investigate in detail tomorrow since there's one of those stunter herd rides going on, so being on or in the vicinity of a bike with plastic affixed to it is an activity of high risk of being targeted or profiled by pissed off cops who just got blown off by the 100 mohawk helmeted riders they just tried to pull over. Great day for maintenance!
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Sep 19, 2015 01:58
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If the clutch switch is intermittently not engaging, it can display a no start condition like you describe. It varies from bike to bike how it works, but it's easy enough to check the switch, just disconnect it and jump the terminal and if it works then that's your problem. It's an easy troubleshot and they fail with sad regularity.
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Sep 19, 2015 04:54
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Ola posted:Thanks guys. I wonder if I can by with just a sheet of neoprene (as sold for divers etc) and some zip ties.There's no special coating or layer on it, right? No special coating or layers as I can see. Looks like plain neoprene with velcro.
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Sep 19, 2015 19:55
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Ola posted:Thanks guys. I wonder if I can by with just a sheet of neoprene (as sold for divers etc) and some zip ties.There's no special coating or layer on it, right? You can glue neoprene with wetsuit repair kits, use some stitching to hold the joint closed while it sets up
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Sep 19, 2015 23:32
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I need help with some bastard-rear end bolts. Tried to remove my left side rearset, won't come off at all. The heads are getting all sorts of hosed up. Should I: 1) buy a propane torch and use the 2' breaker bar 2) wait until saturday (leaving for the track that evening) and go to the local shop's walk-in hours and hope they can peel them off 3) both I would normally go for 2, but that leaves me absolutely no leeway if it doesn't work out at the shop. I've never torched bolts before, knowing me I'd probably loving something up. They're allen heads like the big ones on the front part of the rearset here:  e: both of them are stuck the same. I'm not turning in the wrong direction. There's no give at all, my allen wrench just started biting into the head instead. M42 fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 20, 2015 00:51
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Hammer a *good* torx bit into the fucker. Feel free to warm it over too
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Sep 20, 2015 02:03
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If you use a torch, make sure you're putting the most heat on the thing that the bolt screws into and not the bolt itself. Hammering a torx in is a good idea too if you can. Beyond that you gotta start drilling things.
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Sep 20, 2015 02:18
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I've never used a torch to loosen a bolt. Is the idea that you want to make the thing the bolt screws into more malleable? Wouldn't that gently caress up the threading if you want to put the bolt back in?
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Sep 20, 2015 04:07
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Metal expands when it gets hot.
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Sep 20, 2015 04:14
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It also softens things like jbweld and loctite. e: a couple of people suggested I use an impact driver (I'd have to buy it) instead of a breaker bar, because the latter tends to shear stuck bolts. Thoughts? M42 fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 20, 2015 04:16
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M42 posted:It also softens things like jbweld and loctite. Impacts are probably great. I had to dremel a bigass slot into one of my exhaust bolts to get it out. Used a large flathead bit, elbow grease, and a big drill to remove it.
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Sep 20, 2015 15:16
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SquadronROE posted:I've never used a torch to loosen a bolt. Is the idea that you want to make the thing the bolt screws into more malleable? Wouldn't that gently caress up the threading if you want to put the bolt back in? One trick that saved me a ton of hassle when trying to remove a buggered screw from a carb: I heated up the screw area and then held a bit of candle against it, and capillary action sucked the wax down into the threads and loosened it up. When I pulled it out, the wax had penetrated at least an inch down he threads. Dangdest thing I ever saw (at least as far as bolts go).
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Sep 20, 2015 15:47
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Yeah, one of the front fender bolts that came on the bike was crossthreaded to gently caress, had to use a combo of blowtorch/paraffin/EZ out. drat thing still broke in two places.
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Sep 20, 2015 16:01
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Well, I got the bottom one out, but the top is too stripped now. Unsuccessfully tried to hammer in a size up socket, no luck. No way to cut a slot in it either. Probably just gonna take it to the shop and hope they don't charge too much for an ez-out.
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Sep 20, 2015 22:39
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You know a set of ezouts at lowes is like $8 right?
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Sep 20, 2015 23:08
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Digital_Jesus posted:You know a set of ezouts at lowes is like $8 right? Yeah this, that's like a perfect scenario to do it yourself because the bolt is totally exposed and you can even unbolt the adaptor plate thingy for even easier access if need be.
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Sep 20, 2015 23:15
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I am prone to majorly loving up the first time I do anything on my bike, not sure if I want to risk threaded frame holes  but I'll give it a try.
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Sep 21, 2015 01:51
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M42 posted:I am prone to majorly loving up the first time I do anything on my bike, not sure if I want to risk threaded frame holes Normally sure but you're looking at nearly the ideal scenario for trying to use a bolt extractor. Worst case you have to drill the bolt head off and then the rearset slips over the shaft of the bolt. After that you can lock vice grips on it and get it off I'm sure.
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Sep 21, 2015 02:54
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M42 posted:I am prone to majorly loving up the first time I do anything on my bike, not sure if I want to risk threaded frame holes Don't stress over it. I'm almost positive I had to do the exact same thing to the exact same bolt on my sv, and I just drilled it out. And didn't notice I was out of gas for a week. Just take your time and be calm and observant and everything will be fine.
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Sep 21, 2015 03:30
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Is there any reason to use specialized motorcycle chain cleaner instead of like wd40 or something? Cause I'm out of cleaner but have a lot of wd40.
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Sep 21, 2015 14:18
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WD40 can damage the seals on an O-ringed chain. Just use a can of cheap kerosene, there's no need for any special chain cleaner beyond that.
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Sep 21, 2015 16:01
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Kerosene on a rag and 10w40 in an oiler can is all you need for chain maintenance.
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Sep 21, 2015 16:11
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or a $2 can of engine degreaser works too. *shrug* "Do whatever"
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Sep 21, 2015 17:00
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M42 posted:I am prone to majorly loving up the first time I do anything on my bike, not sure if I want to risk threaded frame holes Oh gently caress... am I too late to the party? I might be able to help you with that, ladybro.
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Sep 21, 2015 17:54
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Chain... cleaner?
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Sep 21, 2015 19:18
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Oh gently caress... am I too late to the party? Not at all, any assistance is appreciated!
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Sep 21, 2015 19:48
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Linedance posted:Chain... cleaner? Look, I already had to have this whole "learning experience" thing about taking care of chains since I'd always had shafties, and now I have to figure out this whole "o ring" thing too?  So purplestuff, not wd40. Or maybe wd40. Or lamp oil. Or something.
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Sep 21, 2015 19:59
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Look, I already had to have this whole "learning experience" thing about taking care of chains since I'd always had shafties, and now I have to figure out this whole "o ring" thing too? Lamp-oil. I've always been a proponent of kerosene and a toothbrush. Plus you get to huff it when you're done. Now let's talk lube... Wax, oil, gear lube, what? I like standard chains (non o-ring) and gear oil. They're easy to maintain, plus old bikes sometimes don't have the sprocket cover clearance for these crazy new x and o ring chains. If you want to stay clean then wax is the way to go, but it's a PITA to clean off.
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Sep 21, 2015 20:21
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My personal routine is Kerosene to clean with a wire brush and/or toothbrush then apply ATF with a different toothbrush to ensure it gets the o-rings coated.
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Sep 21, 2015 21:12
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My personal routine is to buy an overpriced can of über-tekno chain lubrikatieren mit PTFE and the oil of 5 snakes and hose the chain and sprockets with it when I start feeling guilty about chain maintenance.
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Sep 21, 2015 21:20
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About to pull the trigger on a $10 set of Abco tire valve caps, since it's one of the only such products on Amazon with good reviews (3.5 stars, 749 reviews) and they'll make my biek look like Tron. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0085...%2BL&ref=plSrch It'll take them a month to get over here to Liberia, by which time I drat well better have a company-issue dirtbike, or I'll tell the boss I'll no longer cook her my famous cornmeal-fried chicken not mix her my Ti punch until she does. Still really want a Yamaha AG100 more than any other bike in this country.
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Sep 21, 2015 21:21
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My chain bikes run roller chains so WD-40 and some chain lube spray it is. Wheelie-ing a DT175 chews up chains almost faster than they get dirty. Probably a square peg round hole situation brought on by the operator though.
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Sep 21, 2015 21:23
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I clean my chain by spraying it with degreaser, letting it sit 5 minutes, power washing the poo poo out of it then putting on dupont teflon lube. Works every time.
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Sep 21, 2015 23:34
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Linedance posted:My personal routine is to buy an overpriced can of über-tekno chain lubrikatieren mit PTFE and the oil of 5 snakes and hose the chain and sprockets with it when I start feeling guilty about chain maintenance. Don't forget the important final step in that process, losing the can by next time you feel guilty.
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Sep 21, 2015 23:38
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 01:33 |
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The Wonder Weapon posted:My 98 Honda CBR 600 didn't have enough juice to turn over this morning after sitting for a few days. I finally found time to get to this. I tested my voltage over the battery while the bike was idling and it was right around 13.5v. I revved the engine to ~7k rpm and was getting around 12v. I've (mostly) followed this guide: https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf I skipped to the part where you test your stator wires. These are what I tested. These are what I'm looking for, right?  On two of the three pairs I was getting readings just about identical. I'd get .04, .04, and .00. Or 4.75, 4.8, and .9. Does that mean my stator is shot, or is there still another possible culprit? The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Sep 22, 2015 |
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Sep 21, 2015 23:51
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