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Zipperelli. posted:Is that what most people do? With most people's bikes the hole's already there. 
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Jan 6, 2016 16:36
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Why? If you really hate the turn signals just tint them. Or replace the mirrors entirely. But don't do either of those things because they're both really dumb.
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Jan 6, 2016 18:46
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I always thought mirror mounted indicators are a marvellous thing cause other people can see them far better and they're put in a place that doesn't gently caress with the lines of the bike but I'm a huge dork. edit: loving sentences! Slavvy fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jan 6, 2016 |
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Jan 6, 2016 19:01
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Agreed. They look great, and you are going to need both mirrors and turn signals anyway. Unless you go for bar mounts or something, but why would you do that on a faired bike?
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Jan 6, 2016 19:05
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Aren't those the years with bad frames? Do a couple wheelies and set them down hard to open up access.
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Jan 6, 2016 23:36
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Bad frames is more like "I crashed the gently caress out of it and eventually it snapped in half". The frames were arguably too strong - stiff, and prone to snapping over bending.
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Jan 6, 2016 23:49
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Z3n posted:Bad frames is more like "I crashed the gently caress out of it and eventually it snapped in half". Am I wrong in thinking that if a frame bends or snaps, it's hosed either way? I mean, you're not bending that fucker back...right?
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Jan 6, 2016 23:52
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Just do whatever you did to bend it, but, like, the reverse.
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Jan 6, 2016 23:57
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captainOrbital posted:Just do whatever you did to bend it, but, like, the reverse. My bike doesn't have reverse.
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Jan 6, 2016 23:59
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You can ride a bent frame home and to the garage, you just can't ride it as hard. A snapped frame isn't going anywhere.
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Jan 7, 2016 00:01
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Verge posted:Am I wrong in thinking that if a frame bends or snaps, it's hosed either way? I mean, you're not bending that fucker back...right? So the frames snapped at the weld - the problem was that the frame was so strong it had no bend. So it saved some accidents, those where the frame would have otherwise bent, but it also led to the occasional situation where a frame that would have been beyond hosed ended up snapped rather than bent. Also, frames can't bend that far without starting to impact things like radiators or the like. The idea that you could ride away from some accidents that would have snapped a frame on a mid year gixxer is basically fiction.
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Jan 7, 2016 00:36
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If you need a radiator that just means you aren't going fast enough. Get faster, and wind chill will increase, providing adequate cooling for your engine until you reach your destination 
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Jan 7, 2016 00:53
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Radiators, how quaint.
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Jan 7, 2016 04:46
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Slavvy posted:I always thought mirror mounted indicators are a marvellous thing cause other people can see them far better and they're put in a place that doesn't gently caress with the lines of the bike but I'm a huge dork.  I like the look of them, too.
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Jan 7, 2016 20:49
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Marxalot posted:You came pretty drat close with that one. I may have done that exact thing one time with my ex500
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Jan 7, 2016 21:09
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I've always wondered something, guys: if thermal wraps on the pipes increase power, why don't dealers do this? If it's unnecessary with today's bikes, why didn't they do it with yesterday's?
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Jan 10, 2016 05:43
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I have a new Honda Grom with a whole 50 miles on it. I'm hearing the rotor rub on one spot in particular on the front wheel. Squeak. Squeak. Squeak. Is this a matter of getting the pads set or something I should be taking in to the dealer? New rider and new owner, so go easy.
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Jan 10, 2016 06:26
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Horn of Arby's posted:I have a new Honda Grom with a whole 50 miles on it. I'm hearing the rotor rub on one spot in particular on the front wheel. Squeak. Squeak. Squeak. Is this a matter of getting the pads set or something I should be taking in to the dealer? New rider and new owner, so go easy. If you bought it new, take it back and ask them. Maybe it's supposed to do that, but I'm gonna say things like brakes are a little too important to leave up to "maybe it'll work itself out!" Especially since they won't be contractually obligated to replace your pads if they wear badly/a lot/too much if it goes too long.
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Jan 10, 2016 07:49
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Verge posted:I've always wondered something, guys: if thermal wraps on the pipes increase power, why don't dealers do this? If it's unnecessary with today's bikes, why didn't they do it with yesterday's? It's unnecessary and doesn't increase power. Both yesterday and today
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Jan 10, 2016 15:06
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It's unnecessary and doesn't increase power. Both yesterday and today Fwiw, I'm thinking about wrapping my header because I don't want to have to worry about burning myself on it as much when the bike gets sleepy in the dirt, but from what I've read it can rust out the header because the wrap can stay wet if you ride in the rain (or through the biggest mud puddles you can find) and put it away wet. I don't know how true that is, but I'd only wrap now for either looks or for something you end up with the potential to accidentally touch a lot.
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Jan 10, 2016 15:22
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Verge posted:I've always wondered something, guys: if thermal wraps on the pipes increase power, why don't dealers do this? If it's unnecessary with today's bikes, why didn't they do it with yesterday's?
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Jan 10, 2016 15:35
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And what makes you think dealers care about power? They just care about sales.
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Jan 10, 2016 16:36
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Pipe wrap is only good for the following: 1) Looooooooooooooooks and views on bikexif 2) Protecting yourself from burns. You see this mostly on terribly engineered custom builds that are going for item 1) above 3) Holding moisture and grime up against your pipe and ruining it, thereby necessitating pipe wrap to cover your ruined pipe, circle of life.
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Jan 10, 2016 16:54
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I don't think there's even a point in using it for heat shielding. If you're going to get burned by the pipe on a regular basis, do like the manufacturers do and install a metal heat-shield on standoffs. Might be useful for keeping heat in the exhaust in a tuned-to-the-teeth turbocharged engine.
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Jan 10, 2016 18:03
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I like the look of it under hoods, along with the gold heat reflective tape. Still probably inappropriate, but 
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Jan 10, 2016 18:50
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It's useful if you have a powerful engine in a cramped engine bay and can't afford the mclaren style gold foil stuff. So really, really beneficial on an air cooled motorcycle from the 70's.
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Jan 10, 2016 18:58
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Sagebrush posted:Might be useful for keeping heat in the exhaust in a tuned-to-the-teeth turbocharged engine.
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Jan 10, 2016 19:08
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Rebuilding a YZ450F rear shock. What the gently caress is the trick to getting the inner c clips out? I tried using feeler gauges to get behind it and work it down but holy poo poo, not working.
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Jan 10, 2016 20:54
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Picture? Do you have a pick? Or c-clip pliers?
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Jan 10, 2016 21:29
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Not my pictures but this is what the clip looks like This is where it lives  I can't seem to get under it with a pick or a feeler gauge, it's too stiff.
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Jan 10, 2016 21:37
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How's the condition of the shock shaft? Is it just dirty there? You should be able to work a pick in from the gap in the clip, and lever the very first bit of it up over the lip and then chase it around the shock body the rest of the way out. 90 degree pick can be very handy in this situation.
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Jan 10, 2016 21:43
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Huh. Until I looked at the parts fiche, I would have said that was just a broken C-clip. Looks really annoying. Get some cheap dental picks from Horror Fright and settle in.
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Jan 10, 2016 21:44
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Z3n posted:How's the condition of the shock shaft? Is it just dirty there? Those aren't my pictures, but the seal on mine is leaking so I bought a new seal head and fluid. I guess you two are right, time to try and not get pissed off.
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Jan 10, 2016 21:48
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Finally. Looks like the trick is to work the pick in from above to force the clip down, then use another pick to run around it pushing down, then pull it up and out. gently caress.
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Jan 10, 2016 22:13
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And now it will never retain its original shape.
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Jan 11, 2016 16:42
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Sagebrush posted:Huh. Until I looked at the parts fiche, I would have said that was just a broken C-clip. Looks really annoying. Yeah what terrible rear end in a top hat thought it was a good idea to design a clip that has no easy method of extraction?
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Jan 11, 2016 17:38
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BlackMK4 posted:Finally. Looks like the trick is to work the pick in from above to force the clip down, then use another pick to run around it pushing down, then pull it up and out. gently caress. I take it that's not a gas charged shock? Or is it?
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Jan 11, 2016 18:57
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Slavvy posted:I take it that's not a gas charged shock? Or is it? It is. The bladder goes into the smaller chamber. edit: I don't know poo poo about how these things actually work but from what I can tell the pressurized bladder goes into the smaller chamber, in between the chambers sits a valve that controls fluid coming in (compression). The left side of the main shaft is the shim stack, which surrounds the shock valve. To the right of that is the seal head. Rebound is handled through the center of the hole in the center of the shock shaft somehow. Basically, from here, I have to grind the outer peening off of the shock shaft to remove the nut, shim stack / valve, and seal head. Throw the seal head back on, along with the shim stack, bolt it all together with red loctite on the top nut, repeen the thing a little bit, fill the bladder with about 40psi and reinstall it along with the compression valve, bleed the whole thing while inserting the whole shock shaft assembly, reclip that, pressurize the bladder to about 150psi and test. I doubt I'll bother filling the bladder with nitrogen. Maybe if I can actually tell the difference (I probably can't since I've been riding this blown shock for 30hr). BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jan 11, 2016 |
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Jan 11, 2016 19:33
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Heh, peening So the bladder is what, like a tiny football thing with a Schrader valve? I've always been too afraid to open up a serviceable shock because of all the PRESSURISED GAS DUMBASS warning stickers, I didn't realise the gas is in a separate container.
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Jan 11, 2016 20:22
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Yeah, it looks like a black rubber chode. I took the valve core out of the bladder and it still sprayed a fine mist everywhere when I removed the compression adjuster.
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Jan 11, 2016 21:10
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