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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Same reason , the oil, especially cold oil is viscous enough to move the transmission So in this case, where is the cold oil actually transmitting the force? I'm guessing it's the film in the tiny gap where the output gears (constantly meshed) spin on the (nominally disconnected) countershaft?
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Jan 19, 2016 05:58
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Zipperelli. posted:Re: Rain-X on visors I think that's the stuff I use - it's a cleaner/coating variant in a yellow bottle, anyway. If it's the same stuff, you may need to apply it before you ride each time, depending on how much water you're going through and whether you're using a glove/squeegee to wipe water off your visor.
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Jan 19, 2016 18:12
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Lynza posted:I think that's the stuff I use - it's a cleaner/coating variant in a yellow bottle, anyway. If it's the same stuff, you may need to apply it before you ride each time, depending on how much water you're going through and whether you're using a glove/squeegee to wipe water off your visor. So it's not like normal Rain-X? If it is, you shouldn't need to wipe off the water because riding at any speed over 5 mph should make the water bead right off.
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Jan 20, 2016 00:25
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SquadronROE posted:The other thing that really helped me was thinking about the forces at work in a running engine. If you're bringing up the RPMs it sometimes helps stabilize the bike through gyroscopic forces internal to the engine (that's what the instructor said, dunno if it's actually bullshit). Nah, it is the engaged rear brake that produces the stability. On low speed maneuvers I can really feel the difference between using it and not. Some might slow down too much depending on how much braking is applied, of course, so some people-and-bike combo's might need to turn up those revs just to keep moving.
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Jan 20, 2016 01:35
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On a related note: if you're racing/at a track day, what effect does using the rear brake in a corner have on the bike? Obviously if you slam it on you'll go flying but I've been told that using it lightly lets you change the attitude of the bike. What does it actually do to the bike? Does it tighten your line or do you use it to stabilise the bike over bumpy bits or what? Nobody has ever given me a definitive answer on this, including people who race bikes, some of whom have effectively disabled the rear brake altogether.
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Jan 20, 2016 03:11
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Slavvy posted:On a related note: if you're racing/at a track day, what effect does using the rear brake in a corner have on the bike? Obviously if you slam it on you'll go flying but I've been told that using it lightly lets you change the attitude of the bike. What does it actually do to the bike? Does it tighten your line or do you use it to stabilise the bike over bumpy bits or what? Nobody has ever given me a definitive answer on this, including people who race bikes, some of whom have effectively disabled the rear brake altogether. Slowing the rear helps with turn in, that I know. Maybe using the rear as some kind of low high-pass filter, having the drivetrain's power modulation affect the output less is probably also a factor?
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Jan 20, 2016 10:40
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From what I'd heard you basically don't use the rear except in the pits.
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Jan 20, 2016 15:56
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I have heard that true alien riders use the rear brake to control the gyroscopic effect of the floating rear wheel under hard braking. You have to stick your leg out at the same time for it to work. Please try this at home
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Jan 20, 2016 15:59
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Has anyone actually seen an engine damaged from warming up idling, or is it just something to worry about on the internet?
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Jan 20, 2016 17:38
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Welp, battery's dead. I thought I'd managed to turn the alarm off but it turns out the battery was so low it couldn't even hear the radio fob, and just stopped beeping because it drained the last of the battery (though there was enough left to set it off again a bunch more times; electrics are weird) Is it possible to recharge a fully drained lead acid battery, if I jump the bike and then piss off for a day long motorway trip? Or is it proper hosed and I'm just going to have to buy a new one? Related rant, if the sensor can keep running on practically zero volts then why the gently caress do they not sell these things with a separate battery for the sensor to run off which is in turn charged by a switched circuit across the main battery? Or is that a thing that does exist but only in high end alarms Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:From what I'd heard you basically don't use the rear except in the pits. I heard if you so much as touch the rear brake, the whole bike will flip over backwards, somehow :bizarroharleysay:
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Jan 20, 2016 17:56
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Renaissance Robot posted:Welp, battery's dead. I thought I'd managed to turn the alarm off but it turns out the battery was so low it couldn't even hear the radio fob, and just stopped beeping because it drained the last of the battery (though there was enough left to set it off again a bunch more times; electrics are weird) Jumping off a car has the potential for loving your electronics. Having said that, I've done it multiple times with no ill effects. Some battery maintainers have a "deep cycle" that are supposed to try and bring completely fish batteries back from the dead. Always worth a shot. Pull it out and bring it into a shop with a load tester to see if it's still good or has a bad cell, too.
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Jan 20, 2016 18:19
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Renaissance Robot posted:Welp, battery's dead. I thought I'd managed to turn the alarm off but it turns out the battery was so low it couldn't even hear the radio fob, and just stopped beeping because it drained the last of the battery (though there was enough left to set it off again a bunch more times; electrics are weird) Get one of those dashcam hard wires and put it between the battery and alarm, it will monitor voltage and cut power to the device if it reaches X volts.
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Jan 20, 2016 18:20
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Can anyone recommend a trickle charger (or whatever) that I could put my bike battery on over the winter and forget about forever? The bike will be out in a detached garage, the battery will be indoors.
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Jan 20, 2016 22:20
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I haven't had any problems with a Battery Tender Jr. and you can get one for about 15 bucks.
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Jan 20, 2016 22:25
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Dutymode posted:Has anyone actually seen an engine damaged from warming up idling, or is it just something to worry about on the internet? "Warming up" is not a thing you have to do generally. I'm not a walking bike almanac though.
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Jan 20, 2016 22:30
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I was going to post this in the MSF thread but it looks like it closed: A few months a go I took the BRC, and dropped out after a few hours on the first day. I was doing perfectly well for most of the time, the only problem was I kept stalling the bike out but I think that was more that the lovely Honda Nighthawk I had was hosed in the clutch and had a minuscule friction-zone that would stall if you let the clutch out an anything but glacial pace. ANYWAY, it wasn't until we got to the big box/cone weave that I started having issues. This is where we basically did 4 straightaways with a 90 degree turn at each corner, and little cones to weave between on the straights, and I just couldn't do it. The turns I kinda could do, but could never get it consistent, and I just couldn't weave at all. Eventually I dropped the bike and just quit, walking out. I felt like I should just give up and forget riding for months and tried to get out of it. But, I really like the idea of riding, like bikes, and had a blast actually doing stuff until I started loving up and got scared. I think the issue was that A. everyone else was familiar with bikes and knew what do to and never had to be talked to be a coach, B. the pace was faster than I was comfortable with and the fact we did all the exercises as a group made me nervous, and C. I learn best by basically just experimenting and messing around to get used to how whatever I'm using handles. So, I don't think the MSF's highly structured and tightly paced style of learning works well for me, but I have an issue: In the glorious State of Virginia, a bike Learners only lets you ride if you have someone with a full 2 Wheel Licence accompany you. I don't know anybody who has one, at all. So I can't actually, legally, learn to ride a motorcycle USING a motorcycle, as without a Learners, you HAVE to take and pass the BRC to get a licence in this state. So, what I came here to ask AFTER ALL THAT IS: One option I have is to get a "Moped", which is your standard less than 50CC under 35 MPH scooter for dirt cheap, which can be operated without a license, and use that to noodle around parking lots and neighborhood to get used to operating an engine powered 2 wheel vehicle. Is this a valid and useful way to start before eventually graduating up to a motorcycle via the BRC, or is the fact I can't pass the course a sign I should give up and stick to cars?
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Jan 20, 2016 23:10
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KARMA! posted:I'm not a walking bike almanac though. Containing, befides the large number of DISPLACEMENT CALCULATIONS and RIDER'S CALENDAR for every month in the year, as great a variety as are to be found in any other Almanac, Of NEW, USEFUL, and WARMING-UP MATTER.
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Jan 20, 2016 23:11
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KARMA! posted:"Warming up" is not a thing you have to do generally. I'm not a walking bike almanac though. For me, "warming up" means to take it easy for a few minutes until it stops fast-idling or will run off the choke. But I'm sure it's possible to overheat and damage a bike by letting it idle forever and ever.
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Jan 20, 2016 23:21
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Wapole Languray posted:ANYWAY, it wasn't until we got to the big box/cone weave that I started having issues. This is where we basically did 4 straightaways with a 90 degree turn at each corner, and little cones to weave between on the straights, and I just couldn't do it. The turns I kinda could do, but could never get it consistent, and I just couldn't weave at all. Eventually I dropped the bike and just quit, walking out. I felt like I should just give up and forget riding for months and tried to get out of it. But, I really like the idea of riding, like bikes, and had a blast actually doing stuff until I started loving up and got scared. 1. The cone weave is a standard part of every MSF course and it's not particularly difficult. You have to be countersteering and you have to be confident and quick in your movements. If you aren't able to pull that off, I would say you aren't ready to ride on the road, no. Everyone at my MSF course was able to do it, for the record, and at least half of them had never ridden a motorcycle before. 2. "Experimenting and messing around" is a bad way to learn a skill that could kill you if you do it wrong. The ability to do the cone weave translates directly into quickly avoiding road hazards (sand patch, pothole, stray dog, etc). So if you try to teach yourself and skip over the stuff you find hard, you'll have holes in your knowledge. The MSF people will teach you how to ride safely if you listen to what they say and try hard to follow it. Being nervous in a group is going to make it harder to do the course, yes, but that's a psychological thing you can get over. Retaking the course is not out of the question if you are, to be blunt (no judgment), a slower learner than average. 3. I think you're saying you want to get a moped, ride around for a bit, and then retake the course? Sure, that would be kind of helpful (note that mopeds don't have a manual clutch or multiple speeds, usually, so you won't get practice with that stuff). However, the cone weave is something you can even practice on a bicycle to some extent by getting up to a high speed and countersteering. I don't think you should have to go so far as to buy a moped first. You live in Virginia. Do you not have any friends who have an old dirt bike in the garage you could fart around on for a couple of days? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jan 20, 2016 |
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Jan 20, 2016 23:24
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Renaissance Robot posted:Related rant, if the sensor can keep running on practically zero volts then why the gently caress do they not sell these things with a separate battery for the sensor to run off which is in turn charged by a switched circuit across the main battery? Or is that a thing that does exist but only in high end alarms Modern Datatools do exactly this, and play very nicely with the electrical system generally. They turn off one sensor at a time as the voltage drops until it's just the immobilser left, and at that point they're drawing like tens of milliamps. Compared to their old "flatten a new battery in two weeks, then sound the alarm constantly" behaviour it's a revelation.
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Jan 20, 2016 23:30
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Sagebrush posted:You live in Virginia. Do you not have any friends who have an old dirt bike in the garage you could fart around on for a couple of days? Truth, and the "crash to learn" aspect of them might get you over your fear of the bike. It will help you get comfortable with clutch control and smooth braking. You may not be ready to ride, or you just may need more learning. It's not uncommon for some to take longer to learn than others, in any study (see: mathematics). Also, the box is trouble, or at least worrisome, for many BRC takers. If you can really slip the clutch and use light rear braking while looking where you want to go, it's not that big of a deal. It's not the easy breeziest of moves, though.
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Jan 20, 2016 23:38
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captainOrbital posted:Containing, befides the large number of DISPLACEMENT CALCULATIONS and RIDER'S CALENDAR for every month in the year, as great a variety as are to be found in any other Almanac, Of NEW, USEFUL, and WARMING-UP MATTER. Solid. Gold.
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Jan 21, 2016 00:04
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Sagebrush posted:1. The cone weave is a standard part of every MSF course and it's not particularly difficult. You have to be countersteering and you have to be confident and quick in your movements. If you aren't able to pull that off, I would say you aren't ready to ride on the road, no. Everyone at my MSF course was able to do it, for the record, and at least half of them had never ridden a motorcycle before. 1: Oh son of a bitch, the coach actually told me not to turn the handlebar and just push down on it. Not to move the bar, but explicitly DOWN towards the ground without moving the bar left or right. And yeah, I wasn't thinking of road riding anytime soon, at all. 2: The issue is the course is 500$ plus time off work every time. And by experimenting I mean in a parking lot, doing the MSF stuff to get used to moving the machine around at my own pace. I still have to take the BRC to get an actual license, so I can't really NOT do it, just do it when I'm more comfortable and able to learn about proper usage instead of getting used to the very existence on the thing. 3: Yeah, the clutch/transmission was not an issue, once I got used to the clutch shifting was no problem, just had to slow-start cause the zone was so tiny. And the moped's not bad. My town's small, basically all roads are around 30mph speed limit, and it would save me gas on running to-from work and to the store and such. I did have a bike, but it's a goddamn death sentence around here, as there's no infrastructure for bikes and drivers loving HATE them and will crowd you off the road. 4: Nope! Closest I know is a few people who ride big fancy Harley's, but nobody who has a dirtbike. ATV's are the big thing around here. That and I'm an art and IT nerd, while the people who do offroading around here are the hunting and racism demographic so I never socialized much.
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Jan 21, 2016 00:18
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Wapole Languray posted:1: Oh son of a bitch, the coach actually told me not to turn the handlebar and just push down on it. Not to move the bar, but explicitly DOWN towards the ground without moving the bar left or right. A What the gently caress, one of my coworkers MSF coaches told him the same thing. He gathered it was wrong only when he saw the look on my face after telling me. I can't believe there's more than one coach saying this.
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Jan 21, 2016 00:24
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Dutymode posted:Has anyone actually seen an engine damaged from warming up idling, or is it just something to worry about on the internet? forged 2 smoke pistons are sometimes will shatter when cold. (see: wiseco) anything cast: don't lose sleep over it. Me personally? I just ride normally. Not like I'm bouncing it off the rev limiter/3/4+ throttle within the first couple miles of my commute anyway. Pope Mobile posted:Jumping off a car has the potential for loving your electronics. Having said that, I've done it multiple times with no ill effects. Adding to this. Leave the car off and you're ok. a running car's alternator will fight the rectifier/regulator/stator on your bike, and the bike will lose.
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Jan 21, 2016 01:00
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M42 posted:What the gently caress, one of my coworkers MSF coaches told him the same thing. He gathered it was wrong only when he saw the look on my face after telling me. I can't believe there's more than one coach saying this. My MSF coach told me the same thing - to push down towards the ground. I was a first time rider in the course and the only thing that saved me was a friend explaining to me how countersteering worked before class. Wtf?
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Jan 21, 2016 01:17
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Works for bikes like supermotos with high bars.
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Jan 21, 2016 02:39
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Wapole Languray posted:A. everyone else was familiar with bikes and knew what do to and never had to be talked to be a coach, Edit: Also not sure why everyone is surprised about the "push down" thing in the MSF. Every MSF coach teaches that because that's specifically in the MSF literature. I presume the reason for it is that it teaches people to countersteer without them knowing they're countersteering. As anyone who reads the internet will know, you can't teach people about countersteering, it just confuses them. The only problem it sounds like here was that the coach specifically said to push down and don't turn the bars. Obviously you have to turn the bars but the "push" method doesn't require you to know you're doing it. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Jan 21, 2016 |
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Jan 21, 2016 02:49
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Funny, it was the opposite in my class. The people who rode before had the most trouble. Cause they all taught themselves to ride the wrong way. Yeah, he told me NOT to steer, just push down. So... I did. I knew about Countersteering, but I thought maybe it didn't work at the speeds we were going, or would make the bike oversteer or something, so I did what he said.
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Jan 21, 2016 03:14
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I picked up a battery for my postie late last week and replaced some missing lights in the speedo in an effort to finally address some of the lazy fixes from the PO, but all sorts of electrical issues started manifesting (previously there was no battery, nor even a cap where it should have been). I spent ages getting it semi-working again; the wire that should be for the battery ground is co-grounded with another ground wire (this is nowhere on the diagram, but is how I got the bike)... if I connect it to the battery my indicators won't work at all. If I ground the battery directly to the kickstand, indicators work fine though. I also had a problem with the brake light flashing in time with the indicators and not working when brakes were pushed (neutral light that I added also does the flashing with indicators thing). Realised that both are somehow crossed into indicator circuit somehow*, I found a non-contaminated power line and spliced the brake light into that instead, which removed that issue. It works when I use the rear brake now, but just baaarely: even in the shade, you have to pretty much cup your hands around the rear brake light lens to tell when the brake is engaging or not. A sort of workaround is to ride with the headlight always on: it goes significantly brighter that way, and putting the brakes on cuts power to it, which makes for a more visible indication that I'm stopping. Front brake light switch doesn't seem to be working, but it may have been like that before, and I'll address it later. Indicators are quite dim unless the bike is revving, and I don't get a neutral light with the ignition on but the engine off from cold (it will sometimes stay lit for a bit after I've been running the bike and hit the kill switch). The horn works better than it did before I added the battery, but not great, especially not with the headlight on at the same time. I thought the battery would ship charged as it said "ready to ride", plus I've ridden it about an hour total (not counting lots of times turning it on and revving while I messed with electrical stuff), but maybe not? Or have I killed it grounding it to the kickstand? I googled the brand to see if they shipped them charged or not and of course the first result was a bunch of people talking about how unreliable they are :-\ I should mention that I found that the taillight bulb is 12V (my bike is a 6V but the PO replaced headlight and taillight with 12V models because he was too cheap/lazy/stupid to run it with a battery or a cap to keep the 6V ones from blowing). Now that I have the battery to smooth things out, I've since replaced the headlight bulb with 6V and have had no blowouts yet, will have to source a new taillight + assembly for the 6V. Should brighten up but I don't expect it to go from "taillight nearly invisible at idle with headlight off" to useful. Another possible caveat is the bulbs in the speedo (neutral, indicator, high beam) are 12V, I've had no luck finding the 6V ones and there was a 12V wiring harness laying around at the wreckers, so figured I could make do for now. They're tiny though (1-3cp), shouldn't be making a difference like I'm seeing, right? Wondering if these issue might be symptomatic of a weak stator that's not putting out enough current to adequately run the lights, in which case I am going to throw this thing off a bridge because I'm pretty much at the limit of how much money I'm going to throw at it. Tempted to sell it and buy a used CB125e for not much more money, but I can't find a shop manual anywhere (either a PDF or a version for sale). I will say I find it really rewarding doing my own work on the bike and putting it right, but my skill level and having to buy all these tools as I go put a real damper on things, especially as it's my only vehicle (not counting a bicycle). Multimeter is on order but won't get here until late next week, ugh. *I am loathe to start pulling all of the wiring out of the bike over relatively minor stuff like that. On the other hand, I have fun PO mods like "factory wiring leaves battery box, shows up at taillight with all different colours" 
Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jan 21, 2016 |
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Jan 21, 2016 03:52
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Nthing the fact that I was not only told to push DOWN and not turn, but it also confused me in class. I never was able to push down to get it to turn, and ended up doing it "wrong" countersteering since that is the only motion available on that axis. It could be so new riders won't give the bars a good strong push 9/10 times and topple the bike. They tell you to push down knowing that a small amount of that motion will translate into what you actually need to be doing, in a properly limited fashion. Can you not take a weekend course? I did that, because I worked weekdays, and it was fine. Bought coredump's bike the very next friday. Seems like just taking the course you need to take would be cheaper than buying a moped + paying for the course. Best Warm Up Procedure is to start the bike with the throttle pinned and just never change that, slipping the clutch as needed for speed adjustment. 
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Jan 21, 2016 03:55
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BlackMK4 posted:Works for bikes like supermotos with high bars. Yeah that's how I steer the ulysses. Kind of push the bar down and out. I liken it to working the rein on a horse. Bike has such aggressive geometry though that I almost only need to think about turning and it does it.
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Jan 21, 2016 03:58
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Weird. I just took the MSF, and the coach was pretty clear about countersteering. Learning to turn at speed came easily. The first time I got it to drop in smoothly, I was on board with the concept.
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Jan 21, 2016 04:07
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clutchpuck posted:Yeah that's how I steer the ulysses. Kind of push the bar down and out. I liken it to working the rein on a horse. Yeah, I'd done a bit of horseback riding as well, and I think that definitely helped translate to counter steering as well. Plus I can absolutely feel some of that coming back in my posture, particularly on really steep hills.
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Jan 21, 2016 04:18
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Clitch posted:Weird. I just took the MSF, and the coach was pretty clear about countersteering. Learning to turn at speed came easily. The first time I got it to drop in smoothly, I was on board with the concept.
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Jan 21, 2016 05:00
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Tonight at 11 we report on a local man that was able to smoothly perform a turn on a motorcycle without discussing at great lengths the physics behind the process on an internet forum.
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Jan 21, 2016 05:03
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Baller Witness Bro posted:Tonight at 11 we report on a local man that was able to smoothly perform a turn on a motorcycle without discussing at great lengths the physics behind the process on an internet forum. Shoot, I missed it. 
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Jan 21, 2016 06:45
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This is what you have to do:Ethics_Gradient posted:
So do this instead: Ethics_Gradient posted:sell it and buy a used CB125e for not much more money So you don't end up: Baller Witness Bro posted:Tonight at 11 we report on a local man that was able to smoothly perform a turn on a motorcycle without discussing at great lengths the physics behind the process on an internet forum. Liberal media! 
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Jan 21, 2016 08:33
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Baller Witness Bro posted:Tonight at 11 we report on a local man that was able to smoothly perform a turn on a motorcycle without discussing at great lengths the physics behind the process on an internet forum.
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Jan 21, 2016 10:46
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If a motorcycle turns on the road and nobody is around to say "countersteering", did it make a brraap?
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Jan 21, 2016 11:10
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