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clutchpuck posted:Vacuum petcocks with no "off" make it less easy to empty the float bowls for storage. I always run the carb dry when I put the bike away because ethanol sucks. Also if you werent on a Buell and had a metal tank, emptying them is a recipe for rust
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Mar 1, 2016 19:09
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Sagebrush posted:Counterpoint: the total amount of "loving with" that I have to do with my manual petcock (:iamafag:) is about 3 seconds at the beginning and end of each ride, and rarely another 5 seconds as I'm riding down the highway. And it's just...a valve. There's nothing to break in it. Actually, when I took the front off to loosen the action I managed to lose the spring thingy on the back that clicks into the detents, so I'm never quite sure if it's properly off or not. There is nothing I can't break 
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Mar 1, 2016 19:30
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Slavvy posted:That's what the carb drain screws are for. I always thought it was better to add some Stabil in the tank, run it for a few to percolate through the system, and just shut it down so the gaskets don't dry out? Or is it just better to drain everything completely?
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Mar 1, 2016 20:17
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OSU_Matthew posted:I always thought it was better to add some Stabil in the tank, run it for a few to percolate through the system, and just shut it down so the gaskets don't dry out? Or is it just better to drain everything completely? It depends on how long your winter is. 2 months? Put non-ethanol fuel in, drain float bowls, don't worry about it. 6 months? Pull plugs and spray fogging oil in the cylinders, non-ethanol fuel and stabil in the tank, drain float bowls, pray. The important thing is to not use corn fuel unless you are going to burn it up. ALWAYS NEVER FORGET  where your non-ethanol fuel stations are.
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Mar 1, 2016 20:31
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Also if you werent on a Buell and had a metal tank, emptying them is a recipe for rust OH GOD MY GOLDWING.
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Mar 2, 2016 01:30
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Heh, you have the same Schumacher battery charger I have. I sometimes (mis)use mine to power my 12v cigarette lighter tire inflator when I don't feel like idling the car in the garage for 15 minutes while I air up, so you're also not the only person who's found creative uses for one, either.
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Mar 2, 2016 01:51
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If the tank is under the seat, what's in the tank-like object?
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Mar 2, 2016 02:46
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My buddy's '99 Ninja 250's got a weird bug, and I'm not sure where to look. The thing starts easy on choke, and after 3-5 minutes idling, is ready to turn off the choke and ride. Revs great, idles well, you'd think everything was great. However, after about 1/2 hour - 45 minutes, it'll just start losing power, and die if the clutch is pulled in. It's like it just can't fire anymore. Starts up and revs on choke, no problem. Turn off the choke, and it dies again. Let it sit 3-5 minutes, it'll start up and run perfectly for a couple minutes, and then start dying again. Let it sit a few hours, and you can repeat the process, where it gets about 1/2 hour and starts dying. This makes me think it's heat related. Things I've ruled out: Carbs - All stock jets. Disassembled and cleaned meticulously, twice. Plus, the thing runs *perfectly* before it starts dying. Synced, and the idle's been tuned. Gas tank vapor - Opening the cap doesn't help, and the bike's got an aftermarket gas cap that breathes really easily. Gas Flow from the tank - Petcock was rebuilt with the carbs,I can see fuel flowing in the clear tube. Compression - reads 135lbs on my tool in both cylinders Valve lash - The bike's only got 7,000 miles, and it's not making any noise like the valves are out of spec. Battery - Brand new, and swapped for another brand new one, just in case. Charging - Runs at 12.5v at idle, 14v at about 3500rpm and up. Cranks strong, even right after it dies. Overheating - Temp gauge is good, engine doesn't feel unusually hot, not making funny noises, not seizing. So that kind of leaves something else electrical, right? Where would you look? I was thinking maybe the coils were going bad? Or possibly the timing/crank sensor? How does one check those when the issue is intermittent? Every other internet site just keeps repeating "CARBS" and "VAPOR LOCK". It's definitely neither of those. Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 03:38
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Just for shits and giggles check the valve clearance. I know you say there is no noise but.
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Mar 2, 2016 03:48
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Sounds remarkably similar to what my zzr600 was doing when a mate replaced my R/R but one of the connections weren't on completely do it would heat up over time and after 30~ mins the bike would turn off because the r/r wasn't charging the battery. Let it sit and cool down and it'd have 0 issues until it got hot again.
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Mar 2, 2016 03:56
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Sagebrush posted:If the tank is under the seat, what's in the tank-like object? Where they hide the air filter and electrics. Also a little storage compartment. gently caress that reminds me I need to buy an aeronautical fuel pump because I can't source diaphragms for the GL pump anywhere.
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Mar 2, 2016 05:05
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Every other internet site just keeps repeating "CARBS" and "VAPOR LOCK". It's definitely neither of those. Following the Universal Rule of Motorcycle Troubleshooting, since everyone says it's a fuel issue, it must logically be the electrical system. I say follow Shimrod's idea and check that the R/R is putting out the expected numbers, especially when it's heated up.
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Mar 2, 2016 06:35
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Coydog posted:Day Man - Yeah! I have the WRX, and I'll try that out tomorrow. Thank you for explaining that. Seems pretty cool. I need to fix the clock anyway. The WRX is the first vehicle I've ever owned that I actually want a working clock on. I think it's a combination of that awesome display being forgotten until I want info from it, and the WRX being so fun I lose track of time. British CBT and DA (at least the ones I took) specifically said the killswitch was for emergencies only and only the key should be used to turn the bike off.
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Mar 2, 2016 08:41
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Hey guys, I have a question about oil. While I was washing my KTM 690 SMC yesterday with hopes of trading it in for my next bike soon I noticed the oil is low so I want to give it a top up. Looking round online it seems KTM only recommends MOTOREX Cross Power 4T 10W/60 unicorn blood oil. My understanding that I had picked up is that synthetic oil of the same weight(10w60 in this case) is basically the same as any other synthetic oil, and can be used as long as it doesn't have any friction modifiers in it. Am I correct, and I can go to my local car place and hunt out some 10w60 to top it up with or should I stick purely with this recommended but expensive and uncommon oil?
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Mar 2, 2016 13:44
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If you change your oil regularly the brand is pretty much irrelevant, as long as it's the correct type and weight.
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Mar 2, 2016 13:49
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Trauma Tank posted:synthetic oil of the same weight (10w60 in this case) is basically the same as any other synthetic oil, and can be used as long as it doesn't have any friction modifiers in it.
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Mar 2, 2016 14:15
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Fantastic, thanks folks.
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Mar 2, 2016 14:27
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This is why I sold mine. I had a new tank ready and everything, then decided NOPE. Sagebrush posted:If the tank is under the seat, what's in the tank-like object? It's just a fake shell, it's not a container or anything.
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Mar 2, 2016 15:51
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Collateral Damage posted:If you change your oil regularly the brand is pretty much irrelevant, as long as it's the correct type and weight.
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Mar 2, 2016 21:34
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Sagebrush posted:Following the Universal Rule of Motorcycle Troubleshooting, since everyone says it's a fuel issue, it must logically be the electrical system. I say follow Shimrod's idea and check that the R/R is putting out the expected numbers, especially when it's heated up. Sure, but the fuel issues have been gone over and over and over. I'm kinda surprised at myself for not ruling this out yet, so I'll take a look at connectors and R/R. Thanks. Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 22:42
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Regularly is the operative word here. If the owners manual suggests synthetic oil and a 10k oil change interval, you need to do it a lot more often than that with regular oil. Synthetic lasts longer.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:07
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What kind of luggage (top box?) should I get for my new cb500f. There is an OEM box available for what looks like $400. I need somewhere to put my lunch when commuting to work, and my backpack is full of laptop. I used to have a shad box on my klr, but don't know what I should be looking for.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:11
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If you got a rear rack of some kind you can get a lot of generic top cases for cheap like the Emgo ones. Otherwise you may have to get a name brand nice one to fit the bike like a Givi which wouldn't be any cheaper than the Honda one. There's lots of soft luggage options, some are waterproof I think, but the security aspect is missing obviously.
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Mar 2, 2016 23:52
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There is just a seat with some handles, so I guess I will look at the OEM one, if it can also take side bags at some point. Ive seen some CB's with a separate rack for the cheap cases, but those are $200 or something on their own. Huh, there is http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CB500F-CB-500-LUGGAGE-SET-CASES-2013-2014-NOT-GIVI-/322013239279 Which works out to $750. (550 us) The givi ones may or may not be the same price, Ill have to figure it out. blindjoe fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 3, 2016 00:23
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If it's just for carrying your lunch and you don't mind taking the bag with you inside once you reach work, you can just get a Kriega US-20 Drybag to strap to your tail for like $150. You can also buy more bags to hook together and expand your total storage later.
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Mar 3, 2016 02:16
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blindjoe posted:There is just a seat with some handles, so I guess I will look at the OEM one, if it can also take side bags at some point. There is nothing cheap about motorcycle luggage. My pelican 1550 setup for the green ulysses was about $700 and I had to engineer that poo poo.
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Mar 3, 2016 03:00
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I've read the instruction on how to straighten forks here, and my impression was that the front had to be off the ground. My very trusted mechanic told me the same "loosen all the bolts and shake around" that I've seen here, but he said that I don't have to have the front off the ground. In fact, part of his instruction was to hold the front brake and slam the bike forward a few times. I can't imagine how this doesn't cause the forks to slide up in the triples. I have no way to jack the bike up and fix if they do, so I really need to make sure before I loosen anything.
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Mar 3, 2016 03:58
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Speaking of motorcycle luggage, can someone explain top case poo poo to me? Like, do I have to buy a rack from the same manufacturer who makes the top case or what? The Twisted Throttle store near me carries a really clean looking SW Motech rack for my bike but stocks almost entirely Givi topcases. I guess I need adapters and poo poo for that to work, yeah? And speaking of Givi, what's this Monokey and Monolock poo poo their cases have and why are some of them really expensive and some quite reasonable if they are the same capacity?
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Mar 3, 2016 04:36
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VERTiG0 posted:Speaking of motorcycle luggage, can someone explain top case poo poo to me? Like, do I have to buy a rack from the same manufacturer who makes the top case or what? The Twisted Throttle store near me carries a really clean looking SW Motech rack for my bike but stocks almost entirely Givi topcases. I guess I need adapters and poo poo for that to work, yeah? Hithisisanthonywithrevzillawhereyoucanwatchdecideandride https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-sOcjGHAzU
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Mar 3, 2016 04:47
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Coydog posted:I've read the instruction on how to straighten forks here, and my impression was that the front had to be off the ground. My very trusted mechanic told me the same "loosen all the bolts and shake around" that I've seen here, but he said that I don't have to have the front off the ground. In fact, part of his instruction was to hold the front brake and slam the bike forward a few times. I can't imagine how this doesn't cause the forks to slide up in the triples. I have no way to jack the bike up and fix if they do, so I really need to make sure before I loosen anything. Loosen only the top triple 
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Mar 3, 2016 06:36
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Slavvy posted:Loosen only the top triple I'm fairly certain it's the bottom triple you loosen, not the top. It's the twist between the top triple and the bottom of the forks you want to sort out, so everything between that needs to be able to rotate freely.
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Mar 3, 2016 14:35
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alright boys let's play doctor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FR9xZBv17hk i can't roll the bike when the clutch is fully pulled in, in 1st. bike will roll when in neutral. prior to video it fired up and instantly died because i didn't apply choke, could not get it to start again also everything worked fine yesterday, i commuted on it 2003 Tuono (and it's like 46 F so no not divide by zero) edit: also when i put it into 1st and pull clutch in and then hit starter, the bike pulls forward like it's going but doesn't start Razzled fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 3, 2016 16:42
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Sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging fully/at all. Have you checked the cable?
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Mar 3, 2016 17:01
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it's hydraulic so no, also i'm not convinced they are the same issue anyway since the bike won't start in neutral
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Mar 3, 2016 17:03
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And you've checked the hydraulic fluid level?
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Mar 3, 2016 17:13
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Not that it's the source of your problem, but that battery sounds weak. Does it normally make that tick-tick sound after turning it over?
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Mar 3, 2016 17:23
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Gorson posted:Not that it's the source of your problem, but that battery sounds weak. Does it normally make that tick-tick sound after turning it over? definitely not, after talking with n8 i'm gonna go get a new battery. i think what may have happened at this point is the PO charged it enough to give me like 2-3 rides worth of charge but it was actually pretty far gone. gonna go nab one and a tender from walmart
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Mar 3, 2016 17:25
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Razzled, the dash of that tuono looks straight out of some early 90s racecar. All ugly and utilitarian, yet sleek, engineered, and made for speed. 
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Mar 3, 2016 17:49
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It's a really, really fun and good bike. I am continually shocked by how easy it is to toss around and how when you roll on.... the power just doesn't stop. It just keeps pulling and I go from riding it to just being along for the ride
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Mar 3, 2016 17:56
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Please take some of that crap off your keychain.
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Mar 3, 2016 19:02
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