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If your link pipes are anything like mine (brushed stainless steel, rough as hell) then yeah I wouldn't really expect heat and wipe to work, that's more for chrome. I wouldn't have mentioned it but I've got brain problems and didn't clock which bit of the exhaust you meant until after I posted. 
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Jun 21, 2016 21:14
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Nylon is tricky to remove with a solvent because it's resistant to almost everything except strong acid. However IIRC it will dissolve in phenol, which is a component of many carburetor cleaning formulas. Try that? You might also try dichloromethane, if you can get your hands on it. It's in many brake cleaning compounds and plastic solvent cements. It may not actually dissolve the nylon, but it should soften it up. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Jun 22, 2016 |
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Jun 22, 2016 06:10
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Red scotchbrite.
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Jun 22, 2016 06:21
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Y'all. Forget the melted velcro, my suckzuki finally has an actual problem. It's leaking from the rear cylinder cam chain adjuster spring bolt. Noticed some fluid on my swingarm a while back, thought it was from my rear MC but couldn't find anything coming from there. Finally got curious enough to shove my head into the gap and saw that it was coming from that bolt.  It also explains why I've been losing oil (thought I was just burning it during trackdays). It's probably coming from the crush washer. My question is - the bolt is pushing in a spring (part #13) and I don't know if I have to readjust poo poo after I remove it to replace the washer. I don't know if it's universal, and my service manual only tells me how to remove the whole adjuster assembly instead of the bolt itself. Any advice?
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Jun 22, 2016 22:36
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M42 posted:Y'all. Forget the melted velcro, my suckzuki finally has an actual problem. It's leaking from the rear cylinder cam chain adjuster spring bolt. Noticed some fluid on my swingarm a while back, thought it was from my rear MC but couldn't find anything coming from there. Finally got curious enough to shove my head into the gap and saw that it was coming from that bolt. If it's the oem "automatic" type with a spring you just remove the whole unit and replace the washer / oring and reinstall. Or just get a new one or a manual tensioner. Every time I've removed one, little to no oil was lost.
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Jun 22, 2016 22:45
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According to a dude that's done it, I have to go as far as removing the rear cylinder head cover and loving with the cam chain, because removing the bolt and the tension it provides may cause the chain to slip a tooth. Good poo poo, bike. I'm gonna tighten it to spec on the off chance it just loosened itself, and pray to baby fuckin jesus that fixes it.
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Jun 22, 2016 23:40
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M42 posted:According to a dude that's done it, I have to go as far as removing the rear cylinder head cover and loving with the cam chain, because removing the bolt and the tension it provides may cause the chain to slip a tooth. Good poo poo, bike. I'm gonna tighten it to spec on the off chance it just loosened itself, and pray to baby fuckin jesus that fixes it. Smear a little jbweld around it. Problem solved. 
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Jun 23, 2016 00:02
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M42 posted:According to a dude that's done it, I have to go as far as removing the rear cylinder head cover and loving with the cam chain, because removing the bolt and the tension it provides may cause the chain to slip a tooth. Good poo poo, bike. I'm gonna tighten it to spec on the off chance it just loosened itself, and pray to baby fuckin jesus that fixes it. I am not an SV expert but this sounds like piss-poor design on Suzuki's part. There's never any reason to have a whole extra tooth of slack in the cam chain in the first place, and it'll only get worse as the chain wears. 
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Jun 23, 2016 00:18
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So, um, anybody lookin to buy an SV? According to random poo poo I've found googling around, more than one person's just pulled the bolt right off to replace it. But knowing me, the person who managed to blow up a bulletproof ninja 250...
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Jun 23, 2016 00:24
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Pull the tensioner and fix it and rotate the engine by hand before you start it to make sure the valves don't hit the piston.
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Jun 23, 2016 01:29
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Pull the tensioner and fix it and rotate the engine by hand before you start it to make sure the valves don't hit the piston. Yeah this, losing a tooth on the chain is exceedingly unlikely. It helps to put the engine at TDC for that cylinder beforehand so there's no tension against any of the cam lobes to make it suddenly pop and ruin your day.
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Jun 23, 2016 01:44
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The part about checking the thing to make sure it hasn't slipped a tooth is BEST PRACTICE, not -required- as it's not something that normally happens. With that said, ask z3n about this. I believe he has a story related to his Superduke and catching it right before it created a viewport in the side of the motor.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 02:20
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Back the bolt off halfway and smear permatex thread sealant under the tophat?
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Jun 23, 2016 02:23
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What would cause my Ninja 500 to stall at speed coming off throttle? It doesn't stall at a stop, of course. My buddy rides up to stops with the clutch in, and at 30+ mph or so pulling the clutch in will stall the bike. This is utterly baffling to me. I've told him "don't do that, come down to second gear as you stop and shift to first just before you put your foot down," but this irks me because if he has to make an emergency stop from speed I don't want a bump-start event to throw him off balance. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 07:51
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M42 posted:So, um, anybody lookin to buy an SV? Wait, you blew up a ninja 250? Was it from the '07 era? Because I did this! It...it smelled profusely... Beach Bum posted:What would cause my Ninja 500 to stall at speed coming off throttle? It doesn't stall at a stop, of course. I had a bike do this. I think its carbs were out of sync? Not the idle speed but the air-fuel mixture. I think. I dunno, I'm not the one to ask this poo poo so don't take my advice but maybe I'll jumpstart someone else who knows what the gently caress is up. Or maybe you'll check your carbs and find out I'm right which would be cool and good. Of course your idle speed could also be too low but I imagine you checked for that. edit: does the bike hesitate when you give it throttle btw? Verge fucked around with this message at 09:18 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 09:08
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Verge posted:I had a bike do this. I think its carbs were out of sync? Not the idle speed but the air-fuel mixture. I think. I dunno, I'm not the one to ask this poo poo so don't take my advice but maybe I'll jumpstart someone else who knows what the gently caress is up. Or maybe you'll check your carbs and find out I'm right which would be cool and good. Of course your idle speed could also be too low but I imagine you checked for that. Carbs are synced, one of the first things in did was service them. Idle is set to spec (1250). It's got a dead spot 5500-6500 but that's apparently the nature of the EX500 beast, but otherwise goes like stink. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 10:04 on Jun 23, 2016 |
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Jun 23, 2016 09:58
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I have had a wide variety of cars and bikes stall at speed while disengaging the clutch. I don't think they were all for the same reason (the FI ones I think didn't like being at idle but reading they were going at speed) but it is something that sometimes happens IME, just pop the clutch and vrooom back off to the races
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Jun 23, 2016 11:09
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M42 posted:According to a dude that's done it, I have to go as far as removing the rear cylinder head cover and loving with the cam chain, because removing the bolt and the tension it provides may cause the chain to slip a tooth. Good poo poo, bike. I'm gonna tighten it to spec on the off chance it just loosened itself, and pray to baby fuckin jesus that fixes it. Back out the bolt enough turns to wrap a bunch of plumbers ptfe thread tape around it, do it up again.
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Jun 23, 2016 17:55
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M42 posted:Y'all. Forget the melted velcro, my suckzuki finally has an actual problem. It's leaking from the rear cylinder cam chain adjuster spring bolt. Noticed some fluid on my swingarm a while back, thought it was from my rear MC but couldn't find anything coming from there. Finally got curious enough to shove my head into the gap and saw that it was coming from that bolt. tl;dr but I do see a pic of a cam chain tensioner. okay just read, and I'm pretty sure you should be able to get to that center bolt and swap the crush washer without losing cam chain tension. If yours is anything like the other suzuki tensioners I've replaced, then the bolt isn't doing the tensioning, it's just setting the tensioner. After that the tensioner locks into place. Like this:  They're a bitch because if you tension the chain before you mean to, then you have to take the whole assembly off to fix it. Just take the bolt off. $1 says that's not actually what's leaking though. I'm gonna put money on the valve cover gasket. Orrrrrrrrr... You could bring it over one day and let me do it.
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Jun 23, 2016 18:24
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So I've noticed that when the engine gets properly hot (say, riding in moderate traffic in VA summer hot) the CBR idle tends to creep up about 500RPM (closer to 1800-2k) from the 1200-1500 it sits it when I bring it off choke after starting. Is that normal for a carbed bike? Didn't really see it during the cooler months and last summer it was a pile of parts in my apartment.
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Jun 23, 2016 20:43
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The_Maz posted:So I've noticed that when the engine gets properly hot (say, riding in moderate traffic in VA summer hot) the CBR idle tends to creep up about 500RPM (closer to 1800-2k) from the 1200-1500 it sits it when I bring it off choke after starting. Is that normal for a carbed bike? Didn't really see it during the cooler months and last summer it was a pile of parts in my apartment. 1) Your idle screw is probably too tight. 2) you might need a carb clean and sync. I might be able to take some time to bust out the vacuum gauges and get it all sync'd properly if you want. I can clean them too but that's gonna take a bit more time.
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Jun 23, 2016 20:49
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:1) Your idle screw is probably too tight. where do you guys live?
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Jun 23, 2016 20:51
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Satan's taint/ DC area.GnarlyCharlie4u posted:\ Nah, first thing I thought of and checked, the bolt definitely seems to be the origin. I cut my face up shoving it in the gap to confirm. Will buy some extensions and rotating joints to test the bolt, too lazy to remove anything. I maaaay need some hauling help to deal with a potential trackbike in a few weeks 
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Jun 23, 2016 22:06
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What's the accepted simple green ratio for bathing carb bits?
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Jun 24, 2016 00:26
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I've had good luck with 50/50 but you can probably do it to normal-use dilution. That's what I'll do next time.
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Jun 24, 2016 00:29
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clutchpuck posted:I've had good luck with 50/50 but you can probably do it to normal-use dilution. That's what I'll do next time. RIghto, thanks!
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Jun 24, 2016 00:35
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The_Maz posted:So I've noticed that when the engine gets properly hot (say, riding in moderate traffic in VA summer hot) the CBR idle tends to creep up about 500RPM (closer to 1800-2k) from the 1200-1500 it sits it when I bring it off choke after starting. Is that normal for a carbed bike? Didn't really see it during the cooler months and last summer it was a pile of parts in my apartment. The engine idle can change with the temperature, yes. I notice it with my old air-cooled CL350; sitting in traffic, the idle slowly creeps up, and if I've been riding on the highway for half an hour (not a great idea, really) the engine cools off enough that it idles really low or even stalls at stoplights. I think the fuel just vaporizes better in a hot engine. I don't think that should be a problem on a water-cooled engine with a working thermostat, though.
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Jun 24, 2016 00:57
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:1) Your idle screw is probably too tight. Word. I'll check on item 1 tomorrow and get at you on PMs about trading beer and grillables for carb balancing. Vaguely annoyed that I may have to clean them again, having observed all the stabilizer and running it every week rituals over the winter, but I guess that's oldbikes.txt.
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Jun 24, 2016 01:02
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My Tuono's clutch started slipping today. I'm a bit shocked, as with the bikes I've owned (15?), I've never had a clutch fail on me. Of course, I've never had a bike as much power as this one, either. It's a 2003 with only 12,500 miles. Any suggestions from the Rotax/Aprilia crew out there for a replacement? I see AF1 Racing has a Barnett kit for 200 bucks.
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Jun 24, 2016 05:16
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The_Maz posted:Word. I'll check on item 1 tomorrow and get at you on PMs about trading beer and grillables for carb balancing. Vaguely annoyed that I may have to clean them again, having observed all the stabilizer and running it every week rituals over the winter, but I guess that's oldbikes.txt. I'm not so sure if cleaning is needed if you did it last winter. I know US gas is lovely, but it can't be that lovely. But a balancing might help. Cold RPMs should be lower than warm, but if the carbs are not in balance a weak cylinder will drag the rest further down when cold which will exacerbate the rpm difference. If the the throttle response is a bit sore in the throat, that is another carb sync indicator. I.e. when you twist you get a twin-like "ba-broom" instead of a sewing machine "zoom". Once the carbs are done and the engine is up to normal operating temp, reset the idle according to spec, which I assume is 1200. On cold days, it might not sustain idle right away without choke. That's normal.
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Jun 24, 2016 07:10
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How much of a problem is rubber rot on the outside of a fork seal?   There's no damage to the inside, but how likely is this to suddenly fail all at once? Is there a way to mitigate/slow the damage, or is it just a case of buy a new seal and keep an eye on this one and replace it when it looks like it's about to go?
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Jun 24, 2016 16:29
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That's not the seal, it's just a dust guard, the actual seal is down in the fork tube just below the dust guard. That tiny crack in a dust guard is probably not doing any harm.
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Jun 24, 2016 16:32
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You can replace that fairly easily if you feel like pulling the fork off the bike. Pop it out with a screwdriver, pull up straight up, replace.
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Jun 24, 2016 16:39
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Cool, thanks for the reassurance. Most likely I'll just throw some sugru on it to stop it spreading.
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Jun 24, 2016 16:50
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Per thread advice, backed off the idle screw a bit and took it for a ride to try and recreate the same conditions I saw the other day. Got it up pretty drat hot on the temp gauge and things seemed a lot more stable. Probably still going to look into balancing the carbs since they likely need it after my rooting around in them last summer, but it's a big improvement.
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Jun 24, 2016 20:27
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Getting a '98 TW200 dual sport for $1600; on a bike that's under 300lbs wet is it still worth it to get a disc/fork/etc lock (and bright orange "it's locked" reminder cable) for short-term parking, or is any thief just going to roll it up a ramp on its back tire and it's pointless? I have a locked shed at my house to keep it in for overnight parking, so the bike would almost never be parked out on a curb overnight, just parked on the street while I was shopping or out for dinner or whatnot.
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Jun 24, 2016 23:20
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Getting a '98 TW200 dual sport for $1600; on a bike that's under 300lbs wet is it still worth it to get a disc/fork/etc lock (and bright orange "it's locked" reminder cable) for short-term parking, or is any thief just going to roll it up a ramp on its back tire and it's pointless? Is it a deterrent? Yeah. Will it stop a dedicated and experienced thief? Hell no. Good insurance is the best defense. A while back someone posted a link to a reddit thread that a former bike thief was answering questions, it was a pretty interesting read. Anyone have the link? Grats on the Tdub and get us some pics!
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Jun 24, 2016 23:31
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The bolts that hold my handlebars to the upper yoke are jammed. What kind of trouble can I get in trying to use a longer lever/more force? Hanging my whole weight off the end of a 6" allen wrench did nothing. It's like this, sans risers:  I want them out for reasons. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 24, 2016 |
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Jun 24, 2016 23:32
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Renaissance Robot posted:The bolts that hold my handlebars to the upper yoke are jammed. What kind of trouble can I get in trying to use a longer lever/more force? Hanging my whole weight off the end of a 6" allen wrench did nothing. Eventually something will give, either you will break torque on the bolt or you will strip the hex out. Which outcome depends on how frozen the bolt is. If you strip out the hex you will be stuck drilling out the bolt. If you don't care about the bolt and have the clearance, you might be better off with vice grips on the outside of it. You can also try a manual impact driver (hit the end with a hammer type). Whatever you do, soak the bolt in a penetrant like Liquid Wrench overnight.
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Jun 24, 2016 23:40
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Renaissance Robot posted:The bolts that hold my handlebars to the upper yoke are jammed. What kind of trouble can I get in trying to use a longer lever/more force? Hanging my whole weight off the end of a 6" allen wrench did nothing. You can round out the hex heads and curse your existence until sweet death. Or you can ease, take quiet and apply methods. Do you need them undone now or can you ride as you try this thing and that? The two things being heat and lube, the methods of love, applied respectively with a heat gun or torch and some penetrating  oil. Some righteous percussion goes without saying to either one.
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Jun 24, 2016 23:42
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