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clutchpuck posted:How too much torque do you have? It's an i4, so https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8F0x6S09Z8
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Oct 2, 2016 17:50
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I'm hoping to carry more crap on my bike and I'm looking at soft panniers as an option. Looking at just having some space to chuck lunch for a day trip and a jerry can of "in case I can't find a fuel station fuel" is there anything I should think about with them or should I be okay just buying whatever catches my fancy?
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Oct 6, 2016 06:10
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I'm making a race harness for my mate's bike out of a second hand roadgoing one. I've stripped it back completely and the wires are covered in unspeakable amounts of wicked-in grime and old tape glue and whatnot. What's the best way to clean this poo poo off the wires?
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Oct 6, 2016 06:19
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WD-40.
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Oct 6, 2016 06:22
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Sagebrush posted:WD-40. And what do I clean the WD40 off with?
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Oct 6, 2016 06:55
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Is this the right thread to ask about debugging a moped's power loss issue? It's an old 70s Puch.
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Oct 6, 2016 06:55
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kimbo305 posted:Is this the right thread to ask about debugging a moped's power loss issue? Yes. kimbo305 posted:It's an old 70s Puch. Problem found. j/k  Is it gradual or total? It'll be a simple bike, so fuel delivery, air leak, reed valve, compression, spark and exhaust leak are the things to check.
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Oct 6, 2016 08:11
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Ola posted:j/k I'm asking for a friend, who's not as willing to ask ppl on forums for help, I guess. He put in a new spark plug a couple weeks prior to the power loss. Swapping back and forth between the old plug and the new doesn't seem to produce any change. Didn't sound like there were any obvious exhaust leaks, but he's since snapped an exhaust stud looking at the exhaust. Plans to replace that, of course. Piston rings looked ok. Carb seemed to be sending fuel through ok. If you put the bike on its stand, it will rev all the way up, but it won't build up any speed on the road. It doesn't sound like it's misfiring or detonating; it just can't produce much power or push itself up a mild slope. Does it mean anything that it can rev out without any load on the motor?
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Oct 6, 2016 08:26
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kimbo305 posted:
It at least means that ignition is ok. If it produces 2% of its rated power due to compression loss, it still has enough power to spin up to redline with no load. If you don't know already, the reed valve is a flappy one way valve which is supposed to seal the intake under compression. If it's bad, you'll lose a lot of power and it'll huff and puff through the carb. I'd first try a compression check, then remove the carb and have a look at its passages, then check the reed valve which is between the carb and the cylinder.
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Oct 6, 2016 11:41
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Slavvy posted:And what do I clean the WD40 off with? You don't. Just scrub it off with a cloth until there's nothing dripping, and leave the thin film of oil that gets left behind. The wires will get shiny and lubricated, which helps for pulling them through any small holes or fittings. You won't be able to stick electrical tape to them any more, but that's okay, because you aren't going to use electrical tape, right?
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Oct 6, 2016 16:07
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Ola posted:It at least means that ignition is ok. If it produces 2% of its rated power due to compression loss, it still has enough power to spin up to redline with no load. If you don't know already, the reed valve is a flappy one way valve which is supposed to seal the intake under compression. If it's bad, you'll lose a lot of power and it'll huff and puff through the carb. Is the spark plug threaded gauge fitting something that Autozone rents (or sells)? Do they rent out whole compression testers? My sense of the local Autozone is that they wouldn't have that stuff.
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Oct 6, 2016 17:06
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kimbo305 posted:Is the spark plug threaded gauge fitting something that Autozone rents (or sells)? Do they rent out whole compression testers? My sense of the local Autozone is that they wouldn't have that stuff. Americans, do you know? My local Norweigan Harbor Freight equivalent has a compression tester with a rubber ended probe you press against the plug hole. Best to be two, but not too bad on your own, depending on the plug hole orientation. http://www.biltema.no/no/Bil---MC/Verktoy-og-verkstedutstyr/Testinstrument-og-Elektronikk/Kompresjonstester-2000016979/
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Oct 6, 2016 17:16
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kimbo305 posted:Is the spark plug threaded gauge fitting something that Autozone rents (or sells)? Do they rent out whole compression testers? My sense of the local Autozone is that they wouldn't have that stuff. Most of the local chain stores (Autozone, O'Reillys etc) will have a comp tester on hand for rental, but they may not have the correct adapter.
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Oct 6, 2016 17:33
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Sagebrush posted:You don't. Just scrub it off with a cloth until there's nothing dripping, and leave the thin film of oil that gets left behind. The wires will get shiny and lubricated, which helps for pulling them through any small holes or fittings. You won't be able to stick electrical tape to them any more, but that's okay, because you aren't going to use electrical tape, right? I'm intending on using braided sheath stuff and heatshrink and I worry that the heatshrink will slip and slide around.
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Oct 6, 2016 18:59
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Seal the end with liquid electrical tape/brush-on plastidip. That's what I did for my indicator wires. Alternatively just make certain the final diameter of the heatshrink tube you're using is less than the diameter of the wires it's going over. So long as you get it up to temperature it should be tight enough to not move. e/ or test it out on some scrap first to alleviate your concerns. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Oct 6, 2016 |
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Oct 6, 2016 21:25
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I'm keeping my bike outside now and of course the first night I'm too sick to feel like bothering to put the cover on, it rains. Once it stops, would it be an idea to sluice the bike off with fresh water? I'm barely 20 miles from the sea, so the rain here has a lot of crap in it.
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Oct 7, 2016 12:54
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'm keeping my bike outside now and of course the first night I'm too sick to feel like bothering to put the cover on, it rains. Yeah, but you're going to need one of these: http://www.marinedepot.com/Marine_D...IRORDNH-vi.html Make sure your TDS are below 5 ppm.
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Oct 7, 2016 13:41
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I'll take that as "quit worrying about it you nancy".
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Oct 7, 2016 14:50
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I live a half mile from the sea in a place with a well earned reputation for rain and this is not a thing that bothers me.
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Oct 7, 2016 15:39
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'm keeping my bike outside now and of course the first night I'm too sick to feel like bothering to put the cover on, it rains. I'm less than 1 mile from the ocean and I've never noticed that the rain has any "crap" in it. It certainly isn't saltwater. You do know how the water cycle works, right?
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Oct 7, 2016 17:04
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I live on an island. On really windy days there can be a mist that leaves a scummy residue on things, but rain is still just rain.
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Oct 7, 2016 17:45
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Sagebrush posted:I'm less than 1 mile from the ocean and I've never noticed that the rain has any "crap" in it. It certainly isn't saltwater. You do know how the water cycle works, right? I think it's clear I don't.  Or at least that I didn't bother to think about it because I was stuck inside with nothing better to do than be paranoid about my ride getting rusty 
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Oct 7, 2016 18:25
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if you live near the ocean your bike is gonna get rusty anyway
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Oct 7, 2016 18:32
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A MIRACLE posted:if you live near the ocean your bike is gonna get rusty anyway 20 miles doesn't really count as "close" though. Particularly in a country where no point is further than 50 miles from salt water.
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Oct 7, 2016 19:24
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I just throw my bike into the ocean every time I feel it needs a wash
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Oct 7, 2016 21:27
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Let's go ride around on the salt flats
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Oct 7, 2016 21:53
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I stopped at the Bonneville salt flats on the way out to California, pulled my CL350 out of the trailer, and had a blast seeing how fast it can go (not quite 100mph). Then I ran out of gas three miles from the car in the Utah desert in August, but things worked out and I didn't die. Then when I got home I realized oh, right, the salt flats are covered with salt. And now so is every lower surface of my bike. Whoops.
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Oct 7, 2016 22:44
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Sagebrush posted:I stopped at the Bonneville salt flats on the way out to California, pulled my CL350 out of the trailer, and had a blast seeing how fast it can go (not quite 100mph).  sounds like a good day
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Oct 7, 2016 22:46
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Sagebrush posted:I stopped at the Bonneville salt flats on the way out to California, pulled my CL350 out of the trailer, and had a blast seeing how fast it can go (not quite 100mph). http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/acf50.php E: DO NOT SPRAY ON BRAKES
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Oct 7, 2016 23:43
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Why did the lever end nub on my KLR's clutch cable break off? I can't see anything that was wrong with the lever or housing or anything else, nothing looks like it was bent or kinked at a funny angle when I installed it, but it broke while riding. I've ordered another, and replacement is simple enough, but how do I make sure this doesn't happen again? Is this just bad luck and some cables break sometimes?
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Oct 8, 2016 17:51
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You mean the little metal cylinder on the end of the cable that connects it to the lever? Those things are just crimped on, usually, and they're under a huge amount of force when you pull the lever (there's a lot of mechanical advantage there). They do just break sometimes. There's a reason people say you should carry a spare clutch cable if you're going on a trip.
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Oct 8, 2016 18:05
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Sagebrush posted:You mean the little metal cylinder on the end of the cable that connects it to the lever? I haven't had the time to set it up, but allegedly some even run a spare clutch cable already tucked into the bike with the primary cable and the ends covered. Makes it almost a non-issue.
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Oct 8, 2016 18:39
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Yeah, they just wear out eventually and snap. Pretty cheap to replace, I think the last time I bought one it was like 12 bucks.
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Oct 8, 2016 19:21
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Mine broke at that exact point just a couple days ago.
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Oct 9, 2016 03:03
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I have a Ninja 300, and I've been kicking around the idea of getting something a bit bigger. I've decided I want a supermoto of some sort, but since I've gotten enough of a pay bump to be able to afford two motorcycles, combined with the fact that I actually really like this bike, I think I'm going to keep it around as a dedicated track bike. That said, is there anything I can do with this thing to squeeze a few extra HP out of it? Or is none of it worth the cost?
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Oct 9, 2016 20:57
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Just noticed this bolt is missing on my Street twin. I'm assuming vibrated loose at some point. No oil or anything seems to be leaking, is there likely to have been damage caused by riding without it? I've ordered a replacement.
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Oct 9, 2016 21:38
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I swear by running a backup clutch cable, with capped ends, tucked away, in every bike I own that uses it. It's saved me once, and is just great peice of mind for almost no money. Better yet, when you sell your bike to someone and point that out, they view you as a god of wisdom. Of course, my bike now has a hydraulic clutch, so I can't wire any backups. I hope hydraulic clutches are super reliable, as they always went out in my miatas.  IuniusBrutus posted:I've decided I want a supermoto Congratulations. You will not regret this. If the 300 is anything like the ex250 (probably not), power mods won't get you much, and will just make the bike louder and less fun. A gearing change wouldn't be that costly, though, and would give you some extra punch under 100 mph. If I were in your shoes, I'd either keep the 300 as is for it's nimble nature, or sell it for the $$$ and find a faster beater bike for less money. Slavvy posted:Spend the money on suspension instead. THIS. Good suspension is a revelation. Coydog fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Oct 9, 2016 |
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Oct 9, 2016 21:41
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IuniusBrutus posted:I have a Ninja 300, and I've been kicking around the idea of getting something a bit bigger. I've decided I want a supermoto of some sort, but since I've gotten enough of a pay bump to be able to afford two motorcycles, combined with the fact that I actually really like this bike, I think I'm going to keep it around as a dedicated track bike. Spend the money on suspension instead.
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Oct 9, 2016 21:59
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That looks like something that would hold oil to me. What's underneath it?
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Oct 10, 2016 01:44
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Might be some kind of a clutch adjustment access port?
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Oct 10, 2016 02:36
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