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Thank you all for helping me out with all this!
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Sep 28, 2022 19:07
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Hadlock posted:What is happening in this video, looks sort of like they're practicing panic stopping on oiled (or soapy?), polished concrete? These are all front wheel drive cars but he Citroen Traction Avant does way better - why? I'm guessing 80% the longer and wider wheel track, and also that the engine sits fully behind the front axle Skinny tires probably help too.
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Sep 28, 2022 20:29
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mid engine, but seems to have an outsized impact? There's one FR Mercedes and it seems to behave the same as the econoboxes
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Yeah, that's my guess. The tall, skinny, rounded tires are going to be less prone to hydroplaning than the wider, flatter modern designs.
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Sep 28, 2022 20:38
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Another small question, wasn't super clear from Google, the tie rod ends, also good for anti seize?
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Sep 28, 2022 22:08
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Anybody in here ever replaced a slave cylinder on a 2nd generation Tacoma? Pretty sure mine just bought it and I'd like to donit myself. I had a shop do it a few years ago and the mechanic said it was on the outside of the transmission and pretty quick and easy. Although the fact that it's failed already has me wondering if I should trust anything that mechanic said.
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Sep 29, 2022 00:48
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Anybody in here ever replaced a slave cylinder on a 2nd generation Tacoma? Pretty sure mine just bought it and I'd like to donit myself. I had a shop do it a few years ago and the mechanic said it was on the outside of the transmission and pretty quick and easy. I have done this. Yes, it is easy. It's probably failed already because he used an aftermarket part and they generally just don't last. It was a 30 minute adventure for me, and if I had to do a second one it's probably be 15. Really not bad if you can do basic car maintenance.
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Sep 29, 2022 00:55
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Cool, thank you. I'm good for spinning wrenches. Is there a quick way to know for certain that's the only point of failure? Take it off and if poo poo looks hosed, I know for sure? I felt it going out, the pedal got grabby, then stayed down. I coasted into a parking lot and tried it a couple times and then it went out for good and dumped a bunch of DOT. Pedal has zero resistance now. I had a whole saga with this clutch a few years back documented ITT so I'm kind of gunshy about there being other problems.
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Sep 29, 2022 01:01
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Another small question, wasn't super clear from Google, the tie rod ends, also good for anti seize? No. You want a dab of blue or purple loctite when it gets aligned. Those are fasteners you do not want coming loose without anger. IOwnCalculus posted:I would see how the U-joints are when you get the shaft out. If they're not making noise I wouldn't bother replacing them now. Likewise on the yoke itself, I would wait and see how it looks when you pull it, seals can go bad without any damage to the shaft at all. I have no idea when the fluid was last changed, and I have a new Motorcraft filter here. So there WILL be an ATF shower. I need to change it. There's no vibration under throttle or at highway speeds (really, no vibration at all in the car, it's smooth), but I do hear a clunk when I go from coasting to throttle from basically under me. I haven't tried wiggling the shaft  yet to see how much play there is, if any.Edward IV posted:You can even do it on the side of the road with a bunch of crap you bought from the Autozone a mile away up a hill. Ask me how I know. I know the same pain. Not on my old one, but my old roommate's WRX. Alternator locked up after screaming for years. cursedshitbox posted:Slipyoke and a companion flange? maybe half an hour. If the yoke is grooved it'll continue to piddle. Also know that there's a bushing in the extension housing typically that'll also wear. That takes a little longer to replace. I didn't want to know about that bushing.  Ugh, and looking it up on crownvic.net, it looks like a pain in the rear end with what I have available to me as far as tools and a place to work on it. I'll probably chuck a new seal at it and hope that fixes it; if not, I'll keep an eye on the ATF until I get the transmission rebuilt.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Sep 29, 2022 |
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Sep 29, 2022 02:11
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Another small question, wasn't super clear from Google, the tie rod ends, also good for anti seize? Absolutely. Butter those fuckers up real good. Your future alignment shops will love you for it.
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Sep 29, 2022 03:02
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kastein posted:Absolutely. Butter those fuckers up real good. Your future alignment shops will love you for it. STR posted:No. You want a dab of blue or purple loctite when it gets aligned. Those are fasteners you do not want coming loose without anger. This is why I asked the question.
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Sep 29, 2022 03:16
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STR posted:No. You want a dab of blue or purple loctite when it gets aligned. Those are fasteners you do not want coming loose without anger. Respectfully disagree. That's literally every bolt on a car.
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Sep 29, 2022 03:19
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I have blue threadlock and copper anti-seize, I just don't know what the legit answer is. I want to not have to deal with this later, but also I don't want to gently caress myself/others over.
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Sep 29, 2022 03:23
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Isn't it held on each end which resists turning loose? Anti seize.
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Sep 29, 2022 03:30
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StormDrain posted:Isn't it held on each end which resists turning loose? Anti seize. I'm not sure what you mean specifically but you are "supposed to" unscrew them (with minimal force) from a wrench The nut that determines the max distance the outer tie rod "goes" is called the "jam nut" I assumed I didn't do anything at all with the jam nut, but for the actual outer tie rod that threads around the inner tie rod, should be rust prevented, because this loving sucked replacing them.
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Sep 29, 2022 03:44
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It's both, you want anti-seize on the inner threads so it can easily be aligned, loctite on the nut for the other end.
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Sep 29, 2022 04:23
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opengl posted:It's both, you want anti-seize on the inner threads so it can easily be aligned, loctite on the nut for the other end. Mine doesn't have a castle nut, just a self-locking nut but good to know, thank you! that image is perfect
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Sep 29, 2022 04:28
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I've personally never bothered with loctite on balljoint/TRE studs, whatever locking method (castle nut, locknut) is sufficient in my mind. Antiseize is good for the adjustment threads; properly seated jam nuts also don't just come loose on their own. With everything else fully installed, the most that should be able to happen if the jam nut goes loose is your alignment goes off slightly. Both ends are constrained enough that you can't get even a full rotation, let alone the many rotations you'd need to fully unthread the joint.
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Sep 29, 2022 04:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've personally never bothered with loctite on balljoint/TRE studs, whatever locking method (castle nut, locknut) is sufficient in my mind. Well, once I'm done all this poo poo I'm going immediately to a place to get an adjustment. I'm just trying to forward think, because I hated having to cut the tie rods off to "fix" the rust issue.
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Sep 29, 2022 04:43
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In the rust belt you seriously want antiseize on that. Loctite is cool and all but if it's properly torqued it won't come loose with antiseize either and it's a lot easier to ensure that you got enough in there to prevent it seizing up. On split collars I'll literally paint it on there all the way down into the threads, totally cover the tie rod threads, then screw them together while pushing it back into the split in the collar as it pumps out. I've never had one come loose and I've never had to put a pipe wrench on a steering part to turn it after either. Outside the rust belt you can probably do fine with loctite or nothing. The loctite isn't going to stick worth a poo poo if there's antiseize everywhere, though, so if you want to use both you'll need to find a really chill alignment tech so you can have them adjust it, then get in there with solvent and shop rags to clean it off the jam nut location, then loctite it. Not worth the hassle IMO. I have all manner of fasteners with antiseize on them and none have come loose... And head bolts go in with oiled threads and don't come loose either. It's really a non issue as long as you get enough torque on it.
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Sep 29, 2022 05:24
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I guess the next question is then, why didn't any of the previous techs do anything like that, why am I having to do this?
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Sep 29, 2022 05:28
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Has it ever been replaced? Even if it has, what incentive would a technician have to do so? It’s a pretty hard scrabble industry, and really they just want to get the job done as quickly as possible. Potential headache in the future, eh. That’s a future problem. The attention to detail is both a curse and a benefit of doing the work yourself.
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Sep 29, 2022 05:32
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TacoHavoc posted:I have done this. Yes, it is easy. It's probably failed already because he used an aftermarket part and they generally just don't last. It was a 30 minute adventure for me, and if I had to do a second one it's probably be 15. Really not bad if you can do basic car maintenance. And as a followup, is there good aftermarket replacement on Rock Auto? Not opposed to buying oem, but I know for somethings there's a better than option at RA.
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Sep 29, 2022 05:34
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nitsuga posted:Potential headache in the future, eh. That’s a future problem. Future problem, hell, it's a future win when the next time you go in for an alignment they get to sell you some new tie rod ends that they slam in there in 30 minutes because they use some combination of an angle grinder and Big Nasty to rapidly remove the old one, destructively.
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Sep 29, 2022 05:43
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No one wants to spend the time to do such a thing when it costs a nickel in materials (OEM reason) and takes time that's not on the flat rate book estimate they're getting paid by when they'll likely never see the same car again (mechanics reason.)
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Sep 29, 2022 09:12
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Maybe i'm an idiot but why would you put loctite on a nut with a cotter pin? Isn't that it's job to keep the nut in place? I'd probably put anti-seize there, if anything.
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Sep 29, 2022 09:28
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Cotter pins are thin metal and can easily rust through and fall out? Admittedly, I've not seen very many cotter pins that are so rusted that they have disintegrated.
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Sep 29, 2022 11:38
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I guess the next question is then, why didn't any of the previous techs do anything like that, why am I having to do this? They don't want to look like they just gave a handy to the tin man.
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Sep 29, 2022 15:50
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Cotter pins are thin metal and can easily rust through and fall out? You can get stainless steel cotter pins.
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Sep 29, 2022 16:12
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I guess the next question is then, why didn't any of the previous techs do anything like that, why am I having to do this? Techs aren't paid to care about something that isn't theirs. They're paid by the minute to get in, do the job, and get out, then get onto the next paying job. Dealers are no different.
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Sep 29, 2022 16:23
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Hadlock posted:same car  So uh, this. (from reddit)
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Sep 29, 2022 17:17
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Is AISIN a decent mfr of clutch parts? Poking around the internet turns up a bunch of people saying they're OEM for Toyotas.
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Sep 29, 2022 23:46
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Is AISIN a decent mfr of clutch parts? Poking around the internet turns up a bunch of people saying they're OEM for Toyotas. They are definitely OEM for Toyota water pumps. Just got one from the dealer with both Toyota and Aisin in the casting.
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Sep 29, 2022 23:49
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Motronic posted:They are definitely OEM for Toyota water pumps. Just got one from the dealer with both Toyota and Aisin in the casting. Right on, thanks. I'll get that one. Next question: Any reason to replace the master cylinder along with the slave? Sometimes in really hot weather my clutch pedal feels a little sticky.
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Sep 29, 2022 23:51
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Next question: Any reason to replace the master cylinder along with the slave? Sometimes in really hot weather my clutch pedal feels a little sticky. I've always replaced clutch hydraulics in pairs (if I could afford to do so at that particular time) under the premise that if one is going bad the other probably isn't far behind. But I've definitely only replaced slaves when they've failed and........yeah, whatever for a shitbox. If you're trying to fix this for longer term reliability do both.
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Sep 30, 2022 00:00
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Well alright then. I'll do both with Aisin parts.
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Sep 30, 2022 00:42
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Aisin makes some of the most reliable transmission parts (and related stuff) that I've ever used. I'm trusting one of their transmissions with somewhere between 160k and 200k miles on it to tow a trailer cross country soon and it's over 2 decades old. I'd put their clutch on one of my vehicles in a heartbeat.mobby_6kl posted:Maybe i'm an idiot but why would you put loctite on a nut with a cotter pin? Isn't that it's job to keep the nut in place? I'd probably put anti-seize there, if anything. The adjusters I'm saying to spackle with antiseize don't have cotter pins, that's the tie rod tapers and balljoints etc etc. Those, I wouldn't put antiseize on.
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Sep 30, 2022 01:14
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Well alright then. I'll do both with Aisin parts. Toyota (Motor) owns a 30% stake in Aisin, and if they make that particular product, it's probably an OEM part on a Toyota. Same goes for Denso, Toyota Motor owns slightly under 25%. Aisin is a major player in the OEM game - Wikipedia says their US operations alone supply OEM parts for Honda, General Motors, Mitsubishi, Nissan, and Toyota. And at least at some point previously, they supplied transmissions for Jeeps (hence why Ken likes them... those transmissions are pretty drat bulletproof). Denso supplies a lot of parts for the same companies, though they're more on the electrical and HVAC + cooling system side.
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Sep 30, 2022 01:43
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I love Rock Auto but I wish they would put these things in the part descriptions. This is all really helpful, thanks yall.
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Sep 30, 2022 02:03
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I assume a 12v sealed lead acid battery that's measuring .4v is beyond saving?
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Sep 30, 2022 04:05
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Safety Dance posted:I assume a 12v sealed lead acid battery that's measuring .4v is beyond saving? That just means it's almost completely discharged. If it was in good shape prior to that, it may recover just fine. It can also mean it's got a shorted cell or two and is beyond salvage. Try charging it back up and see if it will hold it.
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Sep 30, 2022 04:11
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