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Just relax and don't worry about it. The bike will move around a bit, it's not gonna suddenly shoot off into space or anything. If you push on the bars it will still turn, if you apply the brakes it will still stop (as well as a KLR ever stops and turns, that is).
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Mar 11, 2017 08:53
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Schroeder91 posted:I've been using Rotella T triple protection 15W-40 oil and it's been good but today when I went to buy some at Walmart they didn't have it, and it looked like all the Rotella bottles are different. I picked up Rotella T4 15W-40 and was comparing it to the old oil I have. "K" comes after "J"... sounds like they had to meet new standards, or just refresh the certification. As long as the bottom section of the circle still has nothing in it, it should still be good for wet clutches. I don't know if they changed any of the formulation that made it so attractive to motorcyclists, though. I'm changing my oil today and I have the same two bottles of Rotella oil: the new T4 and the older one.
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Mar 11, 2017 12:10
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Yeah the CK4 stuff has fewer additives to be compatible with modern diesel emissions equipment. I think Ford says not to use it, but then I read it's fine. Personally I stopped using it in everything other than my diesel tractor. Mowers now get 20w-50, so did my former KLR, BMW gets Castrol 5w-40. The motorcycle specific oil costs significantly more, but the 20w-50 is cheaper.
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Mar 11, 2017 14:36
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I'm about to go balls deep in fiberglass work to finally make my bike rideable again after more than a year. I can handle patching holes and repairing cracks, but I'm not completely sure about how to make an entire new piece. The left side of my upper that attaches to the fairing stay is somewhere in the fields of Florida. What's the easiest way to go about this? I was thinking I could temporarily attach a thin piece of wood or metal or something to use as a support to lay the glass over, but making a new piece separately and then attaching it probably makes more sense. Best practices for this? It could literally probably just resin a layer of mat on a paper plate, attach that to the upper, and then build up a few more layers extending down maybe 6 inches into the existing fairing, yeah? I can't be assed to make a mold or anything like that. I'm fine with literally just attaching a square piece to the bike and dremeling it into shape. I'd just prefer that the piece holding the fairing to the bike be as strong as possible. edit:  I'll obviously fix the existing fairing before I start adding new pieces to it.
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Mar 11, 2017 20:09
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If you're ok with functional and ugly, just use a bent piece of metal bar stock that has a rubber mounted nut (like the rest of the fairing mounts) down a few inches into the intact portion and run it. If you want it to look somewhat pretty, cut roughly the size of the piece you need out of a chunk of cardboard, lay some wax paper over it / coat it with mold release, and wet lay fiberglass directly on to it, and then bolt through bolt pieces of fiberglass to your new fairing mount. sand the 2 parts together, use some mixed up resin with additional adhesive or whatever to bond the 2 parts together and go nuts. Depending on how many other attachment points are there, you may or may not want to trust your repaired piece to be a structural mounting part and may be able to do with / without the bar stock mount. This is the most hacky way to do fiberglass repair, but it sounds like that is what you're looking for.
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Mar 11, 2017 20:24
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Anyone use a 3D printer for misc bike stuff? Friend's willing to sell me his entry level desktop one on the cheap (8" printing area). I could use it for a buncha stuff at home, but I'm wondering - depending on what filament I get - if I can make relatively tough plastic poo poo for a bike too.
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Mar 11, 2017 20:52
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I do, yea. There's a limited range of parts you can make, obviously (besides general strength you also need to consider temperature resistance and fuel compatibility) but for the niches that exist it works quite well. I replaced all my turn signals, for instance, with low-profile custom 3D printed ones, lenses and all. The generic PLA that most printers use by default isn't a great material for bike parts. It's fairly brittle and doesn't stand up well to UV over a couple of years. ABS is equally easy to get, and it's a lot tougher and should work well in most cases, though it's a little trickier to print. My current favorite material is a carbon-fiber-reinforced nylon, which is relatively expensive ($60/lb) and takes careful calibration to print right, but drat it's amazing stuff. Stiff, tough and strong, resistant to all chemicals except strong acids, and doesn't even start to get bendy until ~85C. I'd feel pretty confident printing anything from gauge housings to intake manifolds in that material. I bet it'd even stand up to use in control levers, though the idea of a 3D-printed brake lever snapping off squicks me out so I'm not going to attempt that. What kind of printer is it? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Mar 11, 2017 |
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Mar 11, 2017 21:00
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Perfect, thanks. Bar stock is a really good idea. I'll dick around with it next week.
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Mar 11, 2017 21:03
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Sagebrush posted:I do, yea. There's a limited range of parts you can make, obviously (besides general strength you also need to consider temperature resistance and fuel compatibility) but for the niches that exist it works quite well. I replaced all my turn signals, for instance, with low-profile custom 3D printed ones, lenses and all. This one here. I was expecting I'd need better filament for sure, so that's nbd. I knew I'd buy a 3D printer sometime down the road anyway, but this just kinda fell in my lap, so I'm not sure what kinda stuff I could make with it.
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Mar 11, 2017 21:17
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Looks like a Prusa i3 clone; i.e. it's a clone of the machine that I recommend to all my students when they ask for an entry-level 3D printer. It should have a decent mechanical underpinning and you should only have to deal with minor quirks of that specific model -- nothing really huge that will go wrong with no way to fix it. It has a heated bed, which is critical for the stronger filaments. The stock hotend on that machine is suitable for ABS and low-temperature filaments, but you'll need to upgrade to an all-metal design capable of 260C+ if you you want to use nylon. ($30 or so to upgrade, plus a few parts you print yourself). Everything else is just software and calibration.
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Mar 11, 2017 21:39
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I am dealing with the world's worst fireblade. It's an 08 cbr1000 with 90,000km and the owner thinks I'm going to magic it into being like new again after my explicitly telling him not to buy it because it's been crashed a whole lot of times and has no original cosmetics remaining. The issue: when it gets up above 90 degrees celsius on the dash, it starts to periodically (like maybe once or twice every 2-3 minutes) 'pop' out of the intake runner on one cylinder. I have watched it do this, you can clearly see a fiery flash every time it happens. The problem is that when it does this, sometimes it leads to a stall, usually when you've just been riding and come to stop at a light. Variables I have checked: valve clearances are perfect, plugs are perfect, exhaust/intake are 100% factory, no vacuum leaks, no power commander, swapping coils around doesn't migrate the problem. What in the everloving gently caress will make a bike do this on just one cylinder? It's driving me crazy and google doesn't help.
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Mar 12, 2017 02:45
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Slavvy posted:I am dealing with the world's worst fireblade. It's an 08 cbr1000 with 90,000km and the owner thinks I'm going to magic it into being like new again after my explicitly telling him not to buy it because it's been crashed a whole lot of times and has no original cosmetics remaining. I'd probably have a look at the shape(s) of the internals. Could be that when they get hot, a piston/whatever warps to the point where it's ... well, not loving working perfectly.
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Mar 12, 2017 03:34
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As in look at the piston bores? As in a full rebuild that it badly needs because it's had a really hard 90 thousand k's? As in something someone cheap enough to buy a fireblade with 90 thousand k's would never, ever spring for? Just trying to think this out: it only does it at idle, only once in a while and you can clearly see a flash emanating from behind the #2 throttle plate. It does not do it under load. The only way I can see something like that happening is if the plug is igniting while the intake valve is slightly open. What can cause that? 1. Overtight valve clearance - already sorted with perfect clearances, plus would be doing it constantly not just intermittently 2. Plug igniting at the wrong moment: a. bad CMP/CKP - would affect all cylinders b. damaged/misaligned sensor chopper wheels - would affect all cylinders c. bad ecu 3. Physically incorrect timing on that cylinder alone due to cam lobe/shaft damage - all looks normal and the cams are 1 piece castings, plus would affect it under load, plus exceedingly unlikely on a 2000's honda 4. Lone intake valve somehow expanding to a ludicrous degree with normal engine operating heat - seems unlikely, plus would be doing it constantly, plus would affect it under load, never seen it happen outside MX 250F's and ancient shitters So the only outcome I can see that fulfils every criteria is a faulty ecu and I really, really don't want to be That Guy. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Mar 12, 2017 |
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Mar 12, 2017 04:06
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Just grenade the engine. What's the worst that can happen? 
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Mar 12, 2017 04:38
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Check the injectors? Backfire through the intake perhaps?
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Mar 12, 2017 05:02
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n8r posted:Check the injectors? Swapping injectors back and forth doesn't migrate the fault. Backfire through the intake is what it's doing, what exactly do you mean by that?
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Mar 12, 2017 05:30
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Have you done a leakdown test? both warm and hot?
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Mar 12, 2017 05:41
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I don't have the means to do one because I don't have a nifty spark plug air compressor adaptor thingy  FWIW compression both hot and cold is mint.
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Mar 12, 2017 05:59
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Can you check the intake tract for carbon build up? Maybe it's got some chunks that randomly align to hold the valve open or get hot enough to ignite fuel while the valve is open. I have never worked on a CBR but does it have a PCV system that dumps in that runner by chance?
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Mar 12, 2017 14:14
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This is all way above my pay grade but surely a single mis/backfire shouldn't be enough to stall an I4? It suggests something much deeper than a single valve or even a single cylinder being lovely.
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Mar 12, 2017 19:02
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It is fairly carbony in the intake but not too a ludicrous degree, I've tried carbon cleaner to no avail. The PCV dumps into the airbox as a whole not anywhere near the runners.goddamnedtwisto posted:This is all way above my pay grade but surely a single mis/backfire shouldn't be enough to stall an I4? It suggests something much deeper than a single valve or even a single cylinder being lovely. Nah you're right, none of it quite makes any sense but that's what's happening for sure.
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Mar 12, 2017 19:20
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Slavvy posted:It is fairly carbony in the intake but not too a ludicrous degree, I've tried carbon cleaner to no avail. The PCV dumps into the airbox as a whole not anywhere near the runners. How's the timing handled on that engine? Like the only thing that comes to mind is it sounds like the timing is going way loving out at random, although that would surely be felt as hesitation or backfire under load.
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Mar 12, 2017 19:24
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It's just got a ckp and cmp which have fixed chopper wheels to look at. That's what makes me think the ECU is faulty. I've got a thirty dollar eBay oscilloscope on the way so I'll actually be able to see if that coil is getting an erroneous signal. Something about the way it only happens when the engine is hot really bugs me.
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Mar 12, 2017 19:26
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Slavvy posted:It's just got a ckp and cmp which have fixed chopper wheels to look at. That's what makes me think the ECU is faulty. I've got a thirty dollar eBay oscilloscope on the way so I'll actually be able to see if that coil is getting an erroneous signal. Something about the way it only happens when the engine is hot really bugs me. Have you considered throwing it into a crusher like they did a bunch of buells a while back?
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Mar 12, 2017 22:27
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Marxalot posted:Have you considered throwing it into a crusher like they did a bunch of buells a while back? Oh yeah, Slavvy - get Crusher Collins onto it!
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Mar 12, 2017 23:20
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Slavvy posted:Lets put 'er in reverse here chief. Have you got any kind of spark at all? When did it stop running and what did it do when that happened? Thanks for the advice Slavvy. I apologize for not responding sooner. I had the flu a week or two ago, didn't have much time to work on the bike. Anyways, the bike stopped running after I parked it for a week. Came home from a small ride (~100mi) after getting the bike out of the shop, didn't touch it for a week, then it wouldn't start. Although, for what it's worth, the bike has always been fairly hard to start. When I originally made this post, I hadn't verified spark yet. However, I have checked for spark and can say that I'm getting a clean spark from my plugs on each cylinder. I've already run down the grey wire issue. I replaced the resistor on the contact block in the ignition. (although it wasn't needed, the resistor had been replaced previously by the PO) I'm now getting 6.0-6.04v through the grey wire. This bike is carbureted, so it shouldn't have a crankshaft position sensor, at least not to my knowledge. If you're interested in knowing more, I suggest taking a look at the thread I have going on the ZX Forum. I'd cross-post my main posts on that forum but they're fairly long posts, and I don't want to clutter up this thread too much. Today I replaced the OEM fuel pump with a new pump and verified proper operation of the new pump. But the bike still won't start, I'm either still not getting fuel to the cylinders, or the engine is seriously low on compression. Praying it's not the ladder issue there. Looks like ZXForums won't let you connect over https 443. Change "https" to Http and the page will load. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Mar 12, 2017 |
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Mar 12, 2017 23:31
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Odette posted:Oh yeah, Slavvy - get Crusher Collins onto it! Diametunim posted:Thanks for the advice Slavvy. I apologize for not responding sooner. I had the flu a week or two ago, didn't have much time to work on the bike. Anyways, the bike stopped running after I parked it for a week. Came home from a small ride (~100mi) after getting the bike out of the shop, didn't touch it for a week, then it wouldn't start. Although, for what it's worth, the bike has always been fairly hard to start. When I originally made this post, I hadn't verified spark yet. However, I have checked for spark and can say that I'm getting a clean spark from my plugs on each cylinder. Ok so having had a look at the thread, you definitely need to have the airbox on there or it will have a very hard time stating and just flood the poo poo out the plugs. If you have the janky emissions model with the funny airbox I would suggest getting you some european spec jets and closing all that bullshit off; if that's the case it definitely won't start with the airbox off. It also does have a crank position sensor but if you're getting decent consistent spark that probably isn't your problem. Worth grabbing a $30 compression tester and checking compression and valve clearances.
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Mar 13, 2017 01:56
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Is there a good portable visor spray? I want a smaller bottle to take on rides.
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Mar 13, 2017 03:35
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Slavvy posted:I think the crushinator has been decomissioned so no more hopes and dreams to feast on. You hit the nail on the loving head. I put the airbox / smog assembly back on the bike and it fired right up as soon as I hit the starter. I let the bike idle for 5 minutes or so before calling it quits for the night. The bike doesn't seem to like when I give it throttle, it'll pick up a tad but she definitely hesitates, it's not smooth. However I can bring the bike up in RPMs with the choke no problem. I didn't have much time to troubleshoot the issue anyways. My neighbors would have probably killed me if I was revving the bike away at 11pm. Oh, and the new fuel pump makes the most obnoxious clicking noise when the bike is running. Can't decide if I want to leave the pump this way. All in all, a major stress has been lifted from my shoulders. I got the bike to run after ~4 months of siting in the garage trying various things to bring it back to life. Hopefully I can the other remaining little issues buttoned up in time for my upcoming move. Thank you for your help.
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Mar 13, 2017 05:25
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Diametunim posted:You hit the nail on the loving head. I put the airbox / smog assembly back on the bike and it fired right up as soon as I hit the starter. I let the bike idle for 5 minutes or so before calling it quits for the night. The bike doesn't seem to like when I give it throttle, it'll pick up a tad but she definitely hesitates, it's not smooth. However I can bring the bike up in RPMs with the choke no problem. I didn't have much time to troubleshoot the issue anyways. My neighbors would have probably killed me if I was revving the bike away at 11pm. No worries. I strongly, desperately urge you to toss all that bullshit in the bin and stick some euro jets (or a dynojet kit for a euro spec bike) in + block off all the holes in the airbox, it creates a monumental flat spot in the middle of the rev range and makes getting the bike to run well almost loving impossible. That era of kawi is also 'over-carbed' in a sense which makes them run like dogshit when they're cold, not revving without the choke is fairly normal until the bike is fairly hot. This is what makes them feel like they have a monumental rush of power up top. They also tend to have plastic carb slides which get really questionable after a few decades of abuse.
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Mar 13, 2017 05:35
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Can i get a recommendation for a good tutorial on how to change my rear brake pads on an 09 klr?
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Mar 13, 2017 09:12
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Fauxtool posted:Can i get a recommendation for a good tutorial on how to change my rear brake pads on an 09 klr? Here's a YouTube video friend! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkuRXEbm4kI. Pretty good quality. Although he only changes the front pads in this video the process will be pretty much the same for the rear caliper and pads. Just make sure to keep an eye the rear brake reservoir and you'll be golden. If you don't feel comfortable changing your pads out after watching that video, I would suggest just watching a few more YouTube tutorials. Doesn't really matter what bike it's on either, the process is pretty similar across the board.
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Mar 14, 2017 03:34
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nice, im trying to handle all the basic stuff myself and im finding that my definition of basic keeps expanding. Eventually re-doing all my seals and replacing my clutch will be "basic"
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Mar 14, 2017 04:02
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When I first started I would have my brakes done by the shop when I changed tires, if needed of course. Now when I had to change throttle cables and completely removed both sides, tank, and airbox, I felt like that was basic work. Albeit a bit more time consuming.
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Mar 14, 2017 04:31
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One of my two front brake disks has about a millimeter play between the disc and the ring holding it to the hub. Is this OK or do I need to replace it?
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Mar 14, 2017 17:34
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Foxtrot_13 posted:One of my two front brake disks has about a millimeter play between the disc and the ring holding it to the hub. Is this OK or do I need to replace it? I'm going to assume you ride an MV agusta F4. The MV, like many other bikes, is equipped with powerful brembo 4 piston calipers as well as 'floating' front discs wherein the friction generating part of the disc is connected to the hub indirectly by little buttons. This design allows some lateral movement to cater for heat expansion. Repeatedly braking from 200mph dumps a lot of heat into the discs; if they were fixed to the hub the thermal expansion would distort the discs in short order as they attempt to expand against the very much fixed shape of the wheel and disc bolts.
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Mar 14, 2017 20:11
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Uh, that's not some unobtanium technology. Like literally every bike made since 1995 has floating brakes. Slowing from 200mph (lol) or not.
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Mar 14, 2017 20:51
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once again the dry NZ wit doesn't come across well on the internets
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Mar 14, 2017 22:24
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Mar 15, 2017 00:37
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Slavvy posted:As in look at the piston bores? As in a full rebuild that it badly needs because it's had a really hard 90 thousand k's? As in something someone cheap enough to buy a fireblade with 90 thousand k's would never, ever spring for? cursedshitbox posted:Have you done a leakdown test? both warm and hot? Just stole a leakdown tester for this shitter. Absolutely 100% perfect both cold and while hot enough to start faulting. To recap: pop and flash emanating occasionally from one cylinder. No amount of swapping around parts and other BS makes it migrate or change characteristics one iota and the engine is seemingly mechanically perfect (gently caress you honda) so is there anything left at all that I can try besides waiting for my oscilloscope to come so I can drat the ecu?
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Mar 15, 2017 01:25
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