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I'm running a C2D E8400 clocked stable at 3.6GHz, cooled by a Kingwin RVT-12025; idle temp's around 40-45C depending on ambient, with load pushing it up to 58-62. My only concern is voltage. I, like a retard, left VCore on auto in my P5E's BIOS. CPU-Z reports it at 1.344v under load, 1.368v idle. Would it be alright to leave as-is, or should I wrest control for myself and bump voltage down a bit?
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Jan 30, 2011 07:33
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Alereon posted:That's a little high. It's recommended you never go above a setting of 1.40v in the BIOS, Intel's official max is 1.3625v. I'd see how high you can get it with a more reasonable vCore.  Hopefully no damage there, as a pair of ~8-hour Prime95 tests had an individual failure for each core; first run had core 2 fail at test 200ish, and the second had the first core lose it around 250.I'm not really sure I'll push my CPU higher, as I don't really look forward to mucking about with RAM clocks too.
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Feb 1, 2011 04:22
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eightysixed posted:I just bought a Motorola SURFboard SB6120 DOCSIS 3.0 modem. Why does the 'Link Light' continuously blink? It appears others are distracted by it too. Is there no way to stop this? Get a router with gigabit ports and it'll turn solid blue.
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Sep 14, 2011 05:15
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I noticed today while fiddling with my Catalyst settings that my second HD4870 doesn't report clocking up from 500 MHz, load percentage, or significantly increased fan speed while running 3D applications. This goes for CCC and GPU-Z. The latter says Crossfire is enabled (2 GPUs) on the first card and disabled on the second. Is that all normal and CF just goes further than I thought toward convincing my system that said GPUs work in tandem, or are my mismatched cards making my poo poo all retarded? Win7 Home Premium x64 ASUS P5E, BIOS rev. 1102 C2D E8400 © 3.6 GHz 4x2 GB G-Skill DDR2-800 2x HD4870 1GB; one ASUS Dark Knight, one Sapphire Toxic flashed to stock speed PC P&C Silencer 610-Watt PSU I got the second card dirt-cheap from a friend a few months after the first, and did notice a hefty performance boost when I installed it way back in March last year, but now that I'm trying to wring a little more out of this rig I'm a bit concerned that something may be out of whack after years of updates and tinkering.
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Nov 19, 2011 09:26
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Alereon posted:If GPU-Z isn't showing much load percentage then the GPU isn't being used. Are you running in fullscreen mode? Crossfire doesn't work in Windowed mode, or borderless "fake fullscreen" mode. Go into the Catalyst Control Center and verify that under the Gaming section Catalyst AI is set to "Advanced", lower settings can disable Crossfire or reduce scaling depending on the application. Also make sure that you have the Catalyst 11.11 drivers and Application Profiles package installed for the best compatibility and scaling. Some applications just don't support Crossfire currently, such as Rage and Skyrim. Thanks a bunch, it looks like Catalyst AI defaulted to standard after my last driver clean-install. Now that I'm testing load in fullscreen (was running Unigine Heaven windowed alongside GPU-Z, dur hur) everything looks just dandy.
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Nov 20, 2011 23:24
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Dogen posted:Some dude in the SH/SC thread made this based on some other's dude's original, non-dynamic graph. Now I wonder where my pair of 4870s would fall on that chart. If the 6850 outperforms them, maybe I should just see about selling 'em for $50 each and throwing down $20 on a new card. Probably still going to be CPU-bottlenecked though.
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Apr 30, 2012 19:19
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My setup's given me two figuratively pants-making GBS threads panics in the past week; once on Tuesday when my underpowered UPS with a year-old battery tried to momentarily fail over to its 450va backup and couldn't accommodate my PC and giant ancient CRT's combined draw of 460W. Hit the power button, nothing, let it sit for 15 minutes and it revved up no problem. I guess the UPS' circuit caps were cooling off or something. Everything was fine until yesterday when I restored from sleep mode, logged in, and got a BSOD as my (four-year-old 250GB Caviar Blue that's been sitting at 6 reallocated sectors since June 2010) boot drive wasn't detected by the motherboard. Didn't show up in BIOS, so I popped it out of the hot-swap bay, looked it over and reinserted. Detected and boots just dandy, like nothing happened. CrystalDiskInfo doesn't show any change/further damage, and it hasn't had an issue since. I'm pretty broke at the moment so aside from dusting my case out, double-checking backups (in progress) and taking my monitor off-battery, are there any zero-budget steps I should be taking? Maybe I'll just sell a kidney or apply for a credit card to replace my monitor, UPS, and buy an SSD.
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May 7, 2012 18:11
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Schmendrick posted:Out of curiosity, could I switch out the intel chip and motherboard the Dolphin list I brought up mentioned with other chips/motherboards that would work with the rest of the parts?
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May 7, 2012 19:33
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Alternately left/right-clicking with the Magic Mouse might be tricky if it's still as finicky with its touch sensors as last time I used one, but should do the job.
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May 18, 2012 18:22
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I don't see any issues there. Maybe adjust your ClearType settings?
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Jun 22, 2012 23:48
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That comes out to around US$230 shipped from Newegg, so about AU$225. Seems like an okay deal given what I've heard about Aussie hardware prices in general.
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Jun 30, 2012 00:44
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Some screwdrivers and a hammer. Once you open up the enclosure it's usually just a plain ol' platter drive, sometimes with USB instead of SATA connections soldered on. Either way, brute force is always an option.
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Aug 16, 2012 05:47
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Is there a free, non-lovely way to clone or image a GPT drive? I'm about to try the free version of Macrium Reflect, but I've always been wary of imaging solutions that run within the image-source's OS.
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Jan 28, 2013 23:21
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systran posted:Thanks guys; I'm amazed how helpful this thread is. I ordered that heatsink and I'm just hoping it will end up fitting the case because it looks tall as poo poo. It's coming Friday so I'll post and let you know if it fixed the problem (I'm guessing it will). I noticed that the Radeon I put in there has way more RAM but the clockspeed of the RAM is lower. Also the old card I took out required a ton of power plugs going into it from the power supply and the new one requires none. Are these cards going to have roughly comparable performance? I feel kind of dumb now for buying a new card that seems to barely be better, but at least it uses less power (and generates less heat) if they are going to perform about the same. Once your new heatsink shows up, you could probably bump that E8400 to 3.6GHz with minimal effort and get an additional several months of relevance out of it. Mine's been there for about a year now; I could probably take it to 4GHz but I think I'd have to mess with RAM timings more than I'm comfortable with.
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Mar 7, 2013 01:16
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Stepping back to 2008, I just noticed that my X38 (Asus P5E) board's second PCI-E slot is running at 4x instead of the 16 it should be. The X38 chipset supposedly has 32 PCI-E lanes, so do I have do disable all of the onboard devices and swap to a PCI sound card to get the full 16x/16x for my pair of HD4870s? Does it really make enough difference to even bother squeezing this stone for more blood when I'm upgrading in fall?
redstormpopcorn fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Mar 28, 2013 |
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Mar 28, 2013 05:59
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I think that's a cable from a 17" Alienware M9700 laptop, for whatever MXM GPU pair they've crammed into those things. Definitely doesn't look like any desktop SLI bridge I've ever seen.
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Nov 6, 2013 01:38
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cmykjester posted:Hello I am looking for a External HDD, and I was wondering which one to get. I have been looking at the: WD My Passport. I'm a graphic designer and I go between PCs and Macs a lot, would I be better to have it just be FAT32 or have it have it have two partitions for each? Thanks for the help. I keep one of my thumbdrives formatted as exFAT just for OSX/Windows transitions, hasn't caused me any problems yet.
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Nov 24, 2013 01:30
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dammitcharlie posted:I just got a wireless signal booster because my phone has trouble picking up good wifi in my apartment. However, I misunderstood how it works; I thought I would connect it to the wireless router but it actually connects to a PCI wireless card on a PC. I use ethernet to connect my PC to the router and thus don't have a wireless card. I want to buy a one so that I can connect the booster to the PC but I have one worry: will this work if I continue to use ethernet for the PC's connection and don't even use the wireless card to connect the PC to the internet? You should be able to screw an RP-SMA cable from that to one of your router's removable antenna connections. If it doesn't have any, then yeah get a refund and either a router upgrade or snag an access point to set up as a repeater.
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Jan 16, 2014 01:43
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NeoSeeker posted:Yeah there are two cables coming out of the card. One with a plug with like 8 connectors and one cable with a 6 connection plug. The former was plugged into my PSU and the latter was plugged into the motherboard in a slot around the top left. And of course the GPU itself is plugged into the PCI-e slot. So wait, it's like this? ╔══════════╗╔══════════╗ [PSU] [GPU] [MOBO] Noooo dude, the only connection between your GPU and mobo is the PCI-E slot. 
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May 22, 2014 00:45
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