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I've been asked to source some colour laser printers for around US$2000 each. Does anyone have a recommendation for anything they've used and loved, or hated for that matter? I've grabbed specs and reviews on some HP, Dell and Fuji Xerox units, but I always like to hear from actual users.
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Jul 30, 2010 08:16
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enotnert posted:There is a printer thread, but what would the general usage of these printers be? Ahh, dammit - I'll go over there then. Thanks.
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Jul 31, 2010 00:43
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Scrotos posted:I ran the memcheck86+ no issues. The time between your posts seems to show you ran the memtest for less than an hour. Am I reading that right? Is it just Starcraft that is BSODing?
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Aug 9, 2010 00:11
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homerlaw posted:My external hard drive seems to have buggered off and died. Whenever I plug it in it gives me a USB device is not recognized error, and turning off my computer and removing the power source dosen't seem to help. Can anyone help me Did you get a reply to this that I missed? Or perhaps I'm way too late and you've moved on? If not, take the drive out of the enclosure and hook it up directly to your motherboard. This way you'll know if the drive is faulty or your USB thingy. It'll be either SATA or IDE, so you'll need the suitable power and comms cables for that, and your motherboard will obviously need a spare slot for either of those. If it's IDE, and also a smaller size one, you'll need an adapter to fit it to your system. These laptop drive adapters are very cheap.
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Sep 3, 2010 09:14
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pisshead posted:SMART, short drive self test, and short generic. If your formatting took longer than a minute for a quick format, or longer than a couple of hours (size depending) for a full format (which, under Vista and Win 7, write to the entire disk) then there is probably a problem with that disk. This would certainly manifest as an issue with getting the OS installed. But as you seem to have managed it, I would keep an eye on it if I were you and definitely not entrust the sole copy of anything to it that you want to hang onto.
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Sep 24, 2010 08:54
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Lt Moose posted:Laptop looks like this at boot. Alereon posted:I'd say its a bad videocard then, unless Memtest found any errors. Try the onboard video if present, if it looks good or doesn't have onboard video, try reseating the videocard and its power cables. Could be tricky.
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Sep 27, 2010 23:19
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Sniep posted:On the button itself no idea though. Don't ask me where to buy them, but something like this would be awesome if it was mounted right: http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/291625679/LED_switch_push_button.html
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Oct 3, 2010 13:12
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Metroid48 posted:Oh wow, I'm a moron - that's exactly it, it's just an adapter. New drive is installed, soon to have an OS on it. No, you're just like most people. Those adapters can look like they are part of the drive, and that has fooled loads of people in the past. It's one of those things that you never get told about until you've been affected by it. Make sure you pass it on to the next poor schmuck.
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Oct 6, 2010 06:36
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SplitSoul posted:My friend is having trouble with his new Sapphire HD5570. After plopping it into his Biostar NF4U AM2G with X2 4200+, the monitor just stays in standby mode when the computer is switched on. We've tried everything from updating motherboard drivers and running Driver Sweeper to clear out the old NVidia ones for his overheating 7900GS, to connecting different monitors (CRT and LCD, both through VGA and DVI) and pulling out our hair. Is it a compatibility issue or is the card defective? Both monitors work with the 7900GS. My friend's new eVGA GTX460 exhibited exactly the same issue, but the card worked fine in someone else's PC. Turned out he had put a TV tuner card in prior to the new video card and it was conflicting somehow and preventing video from working at all. Have you got some other cards in that you can yank?
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Nov 14, 2010 12:06
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Factory Factory posted:How should I go about slipping the case on without shorting anything? Can I place tape over the bridge PCB (Scotch or electrical or masking or whatever)? Cut up a disk glove for a thin rubber sheet? Do I need to do something fancier? Electrical tape seems the fanciest and best option, really. You seem to have narrowed it down to an electrical short and the tape will fix that.
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Jan 5, 2011 00:33
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pacheco posted:Basically, what I am doing is making forensic copies of hard drives, meaning they are sector-by-sector. So a 500GB is a humongous 500GB (technically 476GB), and transferring via my write blocker at 10-16mB/s, it takes a very very long time. If you do the math, it's anywhere from 7 to 12 hours to copy a full drive. Sometimes there are multiple drives so it turns into an all-day job just to image the drives, not to mention the analysis itself. If you do it a lot, I'd really recommend using a dedicated device like the Voom HardCopy 3. I love the little gadget, and use it on almost all of my jobs that require it. Depends on your budget, though. I've never seen the 7.1GB/min that they list on the site, but I've seen something around 5. I've also got one of those USB3 drive docks that accepts SATA 2.5" or 3.5" disks, and I see about 80MB/sec through it, with a software writeblock. I use it to dump images onto my analysis workstation from my source image drives. I get almost the same speed across eSATA, but I can't writeblock that in software. What are you using now that gets you a measly 10-16MB/sec?
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Jan 23, 2011 13:38
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pacheco posted:As for the device I'm using, this write blocker. If you're using Tableau writeblockers, use TIM (Tableau's free imager that works with their blockers) instead of FTK Imager. Imager is really slow, and TIM via eSATA is really quick. It's my second choice after the HC3, but the HC3 is still fastest out of all the things we've tested, whether over eSATA, USB3, or anything. TIM can't do the file listing stuff, but that step is abysmally slow in Imager, and you would be well ahead in speed by imaging with TIM and hashing in X-Ways/Encase/FTK/whatever.
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Jan 24, 2011 02:42
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pacheco posted:I did not know TIM existed, I will give it a try. I hope its faster than FTK Imager. As for the file listing, the forensic analyst assigned to the case can do that himself, in the future. Or I can, once I'm off-site. Thanks for bringing this to my attention, you rock! As an added bonus, TIM also tells you the status of your blocker so you can see it's working, and I think it can even add a note to your case to say so in an attached text file.
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Jan 25, 2011 04:49
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brainfizz posted:Also, if it's just imaging you're doing, you might want to invest (similar to the Voom) in something like the Talon http://www.logicubeforensics.com/products/hd_duplication/talon.asp My office has done a massive amount of speed testing between FTK, Encase, Tablaeu, X-Ways, Talon, Hard Copy 3, Raptor, Paladin and perhaps more, all between eSATA, USB2 and Firewire on various size hard drives. Our base on-site imaging system is a MacBook Pro (well, the HC3 but with that laptop as a second unit with TIM), so the tests probably reflect that in regards to onboard buses. I could probably post some numbers, if there was any interest. Anyway, we used to use the Talon extensively, and the display and built-in keyboard was always great. However, they have all now failed, and we had a number of issues where the device would report a successful image and yet the hash compare would have failed and the image was unmountable. We've moved to the HC3 now, and it's far smaller and quicker. You can plug a USB keyboard into it if you need to name files, but I'm happy to not have the extra piece of kit and settle for the default name. It can do a single source to two destinations simultaneously, but alas it won't image a single large drive to two smaller ones in a split.
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Jan 26, 2011 01:08
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Casimir Radon posted:Is there a way to make an image of a compact flash card. I've got all my drivers set up now, and it would be really great if a clean install just meant rewriting the card. You should be able to image it with your tool of choice just like any other device on your system. So long as it is picked up by the host, go nuts.
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Feb 19, 2011 11:29
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Have you found everything works except all you can do for audio is stereo? I ask, as my Yamaha amp didn't like HDMI for surround audio with my HTPC so I just bought an optical cable to run the audio and all my problems went away. edit to add: Reading it again, it sounds like you can't get anything at all. You should have HDMI out from your PC to your amp (whichever port going in, so long as you know what to switch to on your amp to select it) and you should have a single HDMI out on the amp that leads to your TV. That should really be as hard as it gets. The only other thing is if your gear is picky as to when it scans the signal or something. Maybe you need your PC to be on before the amp, or vice versa? Sorry man, I feel like I'm telling you stuff you already know. Gromit fucked around with this message at 09:07 on Feb 26, 2011 |
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Feb 26, 2011 09:02
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kapinga posted:I think he was asking for a variable power supply, not a voltmeter. Multimeters are awesome, but supplying power is not one of the reasons why. A friend of mine fiddles with circuits a lot, and he bought himself a cheap benchtop switchable power supply. Cost about $150 or something. You dial in how many volts you want and away it goes. Connect some clamps to the output and hook them up to a standard power connector and you can power whatever you want. Obviously you can quickly blow all your stuff up by not setting it correctly, or getting the polarity wrong.
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Aug 2, 2011 02:47
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Captain Walker posted:My room is exceptionally hot and I assume that my CPU/GPU shouldn't be running ~48 degrees Celsius during games. After a while, whether I'm playing Deus Ex or New Vegas, I inexplicably CTD, and I THINK it's heat-related but I'm not sure. Still, I want to make sure. Unless it's an issue with your thermal paste where the heat isn't even leaving the CPU, but I think you'd see that sort of thing CTD a lot quicker.
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Aug 3, 2011 04:07
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Lascivious Sloth posted:I bought a WD Element 1tb external drive and it won't show up in the my computer window where C: drive is etc. but showed as a drive in device manager. So I downloaded the disc checking software to check it and that scan gave sector errors and wouldn't let me format it. Am I missing something or is it screwed & I have to take it back? Just bought the thing new today too... Also stupidly I didn't read the package and it says that I 'maybe' can't hook it up to the mac OS once I've used it on windows. Is there a way around that? Why can't it act as a giant usb drive (to put it in basics terms)? Does it show up in the disk management section of the Computer Management window? (right click Computer and select "manage".) If so, try formatting it from there. I've also never heard of a disk not appearing under MacOS if you can see it under Windows, as the Mac seems to have pretty decent NTFS capability these days, and has had FAT support forever. However, if the WD software is reporting bad sectors, just get it replaced.
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Sep 6, 2011 02:19
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Davish Krail posted:e: and as far as I can tell, my case doesn't have an internal speaker to speak of? I doubt any cases have them any more, as the speaker is on the motherboard.
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Sep 21, 2011 00:06
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Gozinbulx posted:So i need....DiskWarrior? As far as I know Diskwarrior is just a Mac data recovery program. It won't help you get around encryption.
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Sep 23, 2011 01:50
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Wonder_Bread posted:It's 100% possible to do I love this. "It's definitely maybe, for sure. Or not."
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Oct 9, 2011 10:44
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zachol posted:I packed everything into the boxes the components came in (GPU, motherboard, etc.) and left the case at home. Unless someone explicitly says that it's a good idea, I wouldn't try to ship the computer when it's still put together. It seems like things would get banged around and broken out of sockets way too easily. Oh yeah, if I HAD to send a computer still in the case I'd make sure the internals were packed solid with something. Something I would be sure I could get out afterwards and not leave anything conductive behind. Either way, though, I'd take the hard drives out and take them with me as carry-on luggage.
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Nov 28, 2011 03:45
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unpronounceable posted:How would you feel about taking a mini tower carry-on? Would you still remove big components from inside the chassis? I'd like to bring my desktop home with me over the Christmas break (via train), and it could probably pass as carry-on size. If I had complete control over the box at all times I'd take it on and not mess with it. You only need to worry about people dropping it or kicking it, or having it shaken around violently. If you treat it like you would taking it over to a friend's house, it will be fine. Train is probably the best option, given how smooth the ride should be. Not sure they'd let you take it on for a plane journey, depending on how anal the security guys are. The nearest I've come, apart from just a couple of laptops, was taking 6 or 7 bare hard drives with me onto a plane. Put them through the x-ray scanner and no-one batted an eyelid.
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Nov 28, 2011 13:05
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Roving Reporter posted:In the meantime, is there anyway to bypass this screen to boot straight to the OS? It'll just sit at Startup repair with no mouse/Keyboard movement. My HTPC was like this. I made a Registry entry edit that reduced the wait time to boot normally in 8 seconds or something, just so it would move on in a short time if I didn't care, but still give me time should I need to get into the BIOS with a different keyboard.
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Dec 2, 2011 02:29
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skirth posted:Anyone have any idea what kind of power cable I need for a port that looks like a PS/2 port? This? http://www.powerpayless.com/ac-power-adapter-for-seagate-st3160026ark-9w6044-570-hd.html But for the price of the replacement power supply you could consider taking the drive out and putting it into a new enclosure.
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Jan 6, 2012 00:27
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Shaocaholica posted:74MB/s on USB3 is kinda meh. I think I was able to get ~70MB/s on FW800 to a 2.5" drive. I've never seen FW800 do anything much faster than USB2, and certainly nothing like 70MB/sec. We do a lot of data transfers of multi-GB files here, and we've used USB2/FW400/FW800/USB3/eSATA extensively. Off the top of my head we see about 30MB/sec off USB2 and FW400. FW800 might get a bit faster, but we're talking 5MB/sec or something. Mind you, that's under Windows - Macs probably see better speeds with better drivers, but I'd be surprised if it gets a lot faster. USB3 and eSATA are very close to each other. I was seeing about 90-100MB/sec with both on my system. The nice thing about USB3 is that I could software writeblock the device. All that is anecdotal, of course, but is at least based on real data transfers rather than theoretical speeds. The files were all very large so you got better performance from less seeking, too. This was middle of last year or so, on 1TB 5.25" drives. Gromit fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jan 10, 2012 |
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Jan 10, 2012 05:14
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Yeah, we gave up trying to work out the FW800 issues and just went with USB2 or hardware duplicators (it would be quicker to duplicate a whole disk rather than do a file copy in many situations.) Now we use eSATA and USB3.
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Jan 10, 2012 06:31
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Red_Fred posted:Is there a way I can use check to see if it is actually using eSATA? Is it worth it? I understand eSATA should in theory be faster than USB 2.0 (about 4x?) but in reality it may not be. Yeah, transfer speeds will be the big giveaway. If it's peaking around 30MB/sec then it's USB2. More like 80MB/sec and more for eSATA.
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Jan 13, 2012 03:35
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Factory Factory posted:...but if you're going to need any random I/O, you'll want to skip USB drives entirely. Have you found USB3 to really adversely affect random access? I've only tested data transfer rates, and they pretty much match eSATA, but I must admit I've not looked into drive seeking.
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Mar 22, 2012 10:20
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Zero VGS posted:When I completely low-level format it and install either a fresh XP or 7... Because I'm a bit of a turd, I'm just posting to say that you actually mid-level formatted it. A low-level format is what the manufacturer does to lay down the tracks on the disk. If you could do one you'd probably kill the drive forever. But I don't blame you - the term gets misused all the time and I'm probably just being a pedantic poo poo. But then hey - that's what the Internet's all about, right? 
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May 20, 2012 00:00
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Colonel Sanders posted:Thanks for the interesting links, I have tore apart a few hard drives many years ago and I am familiar with the magnets for the positioning the read/write heads. However, these plates are surrounding the spindle motor and underneath the platters, I'm certain they are not part of the mechanism to move the heads. Yeah, those plates are definitely not a part of the head positioning. The magnets for that surround the voice coil on the head assembly arm. I've not seen it before myself, and I've seen tons of drives from all over the place. Could be heatsinks? I'm not sure which part of a drive generates the most heat, but could it be the spindle motor?
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Jun 3, 2012 01:45
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298298 posted:I need a 64-128gb flash drive with USB 3.0 that read/writes at actual or close to actual USB 3.0 speeds and isn't ridiculously expensive. No idea what you've looked at, but the Patriot Magnum Supersonic seems to rate highly and is well under $100.
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Jun 8, 2012 00:57
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Lear posted:I'm lookig for a solid external hardware device that stores passwords. Anyone have any recommendations? I recall ThinkGeek sold one a few years ago, but doesn't seem to anymore. There also seem to be a lot of options out there. A bunch of us in my office have biometric thumbdrives we use for transferring security classified data between facilities. You could store anything you wanted on that. What functionality does a device specifically for storing passwords offer that this doesn't?
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Jun 12, 2012 03:57
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Red_Fred posted:Today our wireless internet has been having problems. I have recently moved in to this flat so I'm not really sure of the background. I'm thinking it is probably conflicting with the huge number of other networks in the area as the flat is in a connected town house block thing. Do I just set the channel to a random one and hope it works better than auto or is there a better solution? Could it even be something else? I use an app on my Android tablet that shows me the signal strength of all the wifi networks in range and what channels they are using. I use it to locate dead spots in my house and to make sure my network is not sharing channels with others nearby. I think there used to be similar apps on the Apple store, but they pulled them as they were obvious filthy hacker tools. Just what I was told - I don't own any Apple product.
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Jun 13, 2012 03:19
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Coincidentally, I just kicked my 360 controller and totally destroyed the two USB ports on the front of my Antec P180 case. I'm using an extension to a rear port, but you've got me wondering now if I can replace the front ones.
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Jun 21, 2012 10:18
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HalloKitty posted:Yup, you can. I ruined the front ports on my Antec P182, and got Antec to send me some for nothing, I sent them a photo of the ports, and the case was in warranty, just about. Failing that I'm sure you'll be able to buy them from Antec. Anyway, yeah, if it's the same in the P180, it wasn't all that hard to swap. Surprisingly cheap, too. Pity they are out of stock as you say, and that I don't live in the US. Thanks for the info though. I'll ask them if they have any in Australia. No doubt they'll say yes and tell me they are $80 or something.
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Jun 21, 2012 16:53
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I've got nothing to add beyond getting on my soapbox and saying you mean a mid-level format. People haven't done low level formats for something like 2 decades. However, this hasn't stopped companies from calling a zero-pass a low-level format, even though they should know better. Hard drive companies included. Gromit fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Jul 1, 2012 |
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Jul 1, 2012 04:16
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Pimpmust posted:I don't see a thread for external hard drives so I thought I could ask here: If reliability is a driving force, Scott Moulton at http://myharddrivedied.com suggests avoiding external drives as they are almost exclusively drives that were not good enough to be sold as internal units. If you believe him (and he's probably seen more of these things than anyone else here) then you'd want to get an external enclosure that suits the ports/power switch/etc you want and stick an internal disk in it.
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Jul 6, 2012 16:19
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Pimpmust posted:Only problem with this is that I can get a 2TB WD Elements for the same cost as a Western Digital CaviarŪ Green 2TB internal drive, and I'd have to buy a seperate external enclosure for the internal drive that makes that option costlier. You need to ask yourself why it is you can buy an external enclosure plus drive for the same price as a single internal drive, and the answer isn't because the company wants to lose money or they are selling more externals and want to pass the savings onto you.
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Jul 10, 2012 01:45
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