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Where can I find a decent matte filter for a 15.6 inch laptop screen?I totally understand that glossy makes colors brighter and all but I just want to be able to use this laptop I've had for months while I'm near a window. It's hard to search for these and I don't know if the ones I see are any good.
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Aug 21, 2011 20:04
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Epileptic Nazi posted:I think this is hardware. I've come to ask about USB extension cables, and "USB passthrough" stuff. I'm buying a super nice "gaming" mouse after actually beginning to play games enough to notice the response time of my 40 dollar logitech wireless mouse. Do usb extension cables (Think like, 1 - 2 meters sorta range) or pass-through ports (As in, my monitor has a usb port on it, and a usb cable coming out the back of it for my PC, which I assume is just a pass-through) add any latency to a mouse/keyboard/device? Slower transfer speeds for a USB hard drive? Any effect at all? Once you go over 15 meters I think it is, or 6 intermediary hubs, almost everything starts slowing down. Additionally, you need to have at least one active repeater or hub every 5 meters on USB 2.0 or 1.x devices in order to allow the signal to work - a device on a 1 meter cord, plugged into a 5 meter extension, plugged into your computer, will most likely have trouble functioning.
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Sep 4, 2011 18:37
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Bob Morales posted:Maybe $100-$200 at the moment. They made about 5 million of those and there's still a lot of them around. And $100 shipping on top of that to move all that stuff. It's better off just being kept, and you can even build your own cable or buy one premade to hook up the serial port on it and a modern PC and use ADTPRo to transfer files and disk images onto it. http://adtpro.sourceforge.net/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gw1hfZ-Bc4g
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Sep 5, 2011 03:28
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Sri.Theo posted:I've just bought a new laptop that's being delivered today - can I use it while its being charged for the first time? Or should I wait for it to charge fully first? All that matters is leaving it plugged in to charge for the 3-12 hours the manual says. Using it while this happens won't harm it, but do try not to unplug it during the initial charge.
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Sep 12, 2011 16:35
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KelvereseAysen posted:This might seem like an odd request, but googling for it only ever found the opposite of what I want. May as well buy a Slingbox. It both streams what you get on tv to your computer on the network, as well as streams to you online so you could watch something on vacation or at work. The Slingbox includes stuff so you can change channels on a cable or satellite box, go through the menus, etc. I mean it might be overkill, but it will definitely do it for you.
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Sep 18, 2011 02:47
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andyf posted:Yeah, this is essentially what I would call my 'backup plan' - I have an HDMI port on the monitor I use my PC on, so I could hook up the Xbox that way, and run a digital-out to the receiver, which would give me toggable PC / Xbox video and sound. Anything that ran it through your computer itself would introduce unpleasant input lag, just if you were wondering.
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Sep 21, 2011 01:38
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Chikimiki posted:I think the easiest way to share drives between Mac and Windows is using FAT32 for formatting, but that's not without defaults... If you're running XP with a patch or Vista or higher on the Windows side, and Snow Leopard or higher on the OS X side, you should use exFAT for this, actually. It's the crossplatform compatibility of FAT32 but without all the file system corruption risks and inability to handle large files.
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Oct 11, 2011 16:46
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Captain Corny posted:Hi guys. My new motherboard has no IDE connectors, only SATA, but I have a few harddrives that are IDE and I want to have them in there for storing media and other low priority stuff. What should I do? Buy a PCI Express IDE controller card like this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Controller-Adapter-PEX2IDE/dp/B000YAX13Y That one's got only one connector so it'll take two drives.
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Oct 15, 2011 15:07
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Rick posted:I'm running a windows 7 machine that won't boot when I plug in a new OCZ Solid 3 SSD , even if I specifically select my drive with the OS on it (boot order is set to boot to the OS drive booting after my optical anyway). What happens if you try to install Windows to the SSD? (I assume you are currently using it as extra storage)
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Oct 24, 2011 17:13
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scanlonman posted:What's the best way to connect TWO external monitors to a laptop with one VGA port? None. I mean you can use a splitter but that degrades quality and would only give you two monitors showing the same thing.
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Nov 4, 2011 03:39
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scanlonman posted:So, no "true" way to have two monitors running 1080p? Yeah not a chance. Your laptop's video card wouldn't be able to handle that either, in all likelihood, even with the proper ports.
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Nov 4, 2011 04:05
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Farecoal posted:So, reporting back with my 6670 Radeon HD connected to my 1080p TV with a HDMI cable. It works, but there's a black box all around the display and everything is really muddy, all the colors bleed together and stuff. Is there some obvious thing I'm missing? Your video card driver probably has a default setting to prevent overscan, which scrunches everything into the middle. Go into the settings, there should be a way to set that to "0%" or something like that to end that.
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Nov 4, 2011 04:29
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The rumors have been that: 1) The next Xbox is in 2013 2) Supposedly both the next Xbox and next Playstation will have AMD graphics 3) Supposedly the next Xbox and Playstation will run on x86-64 and might keep reduced cost/size chipsets from the current gen in them to maintain backwards compatibility But as I said, just rumors.
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Nov 12, 2011 19:56
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Factory Factory posted:USB wireless adapters are not only fine, they're often preferable. The inside of a computer case is a storm of interference, and rear plugs like analog speaker wires are worse. USB adapters make it a lot easier to move the antenna away from that stuff, resulting in a better signal. Honestly the best is a USB adapter that also has the ability to screw on an external antenna. This allows the most leeway for positioning the antenna for a stable signal.
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Nov 13, 2011 16:35
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Natron posted:I've got a weird one... Having used Dell Mini 9 hackintosh before, let me tell you, even if you get it set up, it will be unstable, incompatible/buggy with a lot of software, and slow as balls. Windows XP is the only OS that really runs well on it. Stick to that.
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Nov 16, 2011 06:56
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Cardboard Fox posted:This is a rather simple question, but after reading dozens of conflicting opinions around the internet I've decided to ask you goons. The one thing you shouldn't do is frequent on/off cycles. Like, don't turn it on for 30 minutes, turn it off when you're done, come back in another 30 minutes to use it again for a short period, etc. Also I'd advise just having your computer auto-sleep or auto-standby after like an hour or two hours of inactivity. That way, you don't have to remember to put it to sleep or turn it off yourself, and you won't be prone to having frequent on/off cycles like you might with a shorter wait time.
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Nov 17, 2011 17:38
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Treytor posted:My grandma called today and wanted me to build her a new desktop. She wants as few cables as possible on her desk, understandably. I'm going to build a system from a barebone zotac box (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XYJLY0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER) which I've had good experiences with in the past. The problem is that I'd like to eliminate her old desktop computer speakers as well. You know, depending on how barebones and wire-free you want to get, you might consider a refurbished HP all-in-one like this http://www.compsource.com/ttechnote.asp?part_no=BV551AARABA&vid=195&src=F which is $491.
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Dec 2, 2011 06:47
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SlayVus posted:You can use any 360 controller that is corded. Wireless controller require a wireless receiver for the PC, which cost like $20-$30 by itself and some games don't support wireless controllers. Any game that supports the wired controller should support wireless just fine. Although some games that allow multiple players won't understand when the receiver has two controllers connected to it, so you'd need one wired and one wireless or two receivers, etc.
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Dec 31, 2011 17:30
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:USB 3.0 makes practically no difference for the performance of a platter hard drive. Don't worry about it. I got a WD MyPassport with USB 3.0. If I plug it into my laptop in the usb 3.0 port it transfers at ~55 megabytes per second. If I plug it in the shared USB 2.0/eSATAp port, it only does 30 megabytes per second. Seems way more than no difference to me. Of course if it used eSATAp instead I'd use that.
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Jan 10, 2012 08:25
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Red_Fred posted:All this talk of USB 3.0 makes me remember my external drives with eSATA. I'm pretty sure I never got that to work as it seems the drive needed to be attached to the computer at boot and needed to be powered by USB so it was difficult to tell if it was just connected with USB and not eSATA. eSATA should be exactly as fast as plugging it in to a regular SATA port in your computer.
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Jan 13, 2012 02:40
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Alexander Nevermind posted:Stupid short question: When you need to update drivers for a graphics card or sound card or whatever, do you have to uninstall the original first then load the new ones? Or can you just load the new drivers? Usually you don't need to, and proactively removing them before adding the new can make it annoying to install the new.
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Jan 23, 2012 16:31
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Detroit Q. Spider posted:Well yes, but what is allowable leakage on a microwave? I'd imagine it'd be well under 1W as well. I don't think there's any standard, but a microwave that leaks too much is useless for cooking, albeit harmless.
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Feb 6, 2012 06:35
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Factory Factory posted:As it turns out, the FDA limit is 1mW/cm2 at 5 cm before purchase and 5mw/cm2 at 5 cm at any time after. Mostly, don't have your router near your microwave or have your microwave in the middle of the path from your router to your device.
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Feb 6, 2012 07:08
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Less Fat Luke posted:Nothing, but I figured it'd be nice to drop a bunch of ISOs on there that I sometimes use seeing that nothing I have has an optical drive and using unetbootin and what not seems unnecessary if that device wasn't a figment of my imagination. http://www.pendrivelinux.com/yumi-multiboot-usb-creator/ YUMI now lets you create a USB stick that gives you a menu of different ISOs to boot from off a single USB stick. With it, I now have a 16 GB USB stick that can boot any of these as needed: 1) Windows 7 Installer 2) Windows Vista Installer 3) Hiren's Boot CD 4) Backtrack 5 5) Knoppix 6) Kubuntu 11.10 (persistent storage live)
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Feb 24, 2012 01:54
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bergeoisie posted:My mother has around 100 3.5" floppies filled with sensitive client data that she would like to dispose of securely. Is there a good way to erase the contents of these disks before trashing them (keeping in mind that she no longer has a floppy drive)? Would magnets work? Break them open, rip the magnetic disk itself off of the metal hub thing, and feed the magnetic disks through a paper shredder. This will guarantee data destruction. You can then swipe a magnet over the pile of disk shreds to be extra sure.
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Mar 2, 2012 03:58
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Dogen posted:Get a good shredder and just shred the whole drat thing That's nowhere near as much fun.
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Mar 2, 2012 05:28
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There's really not much reason to believe that upgrading the RAM would have had a noticeable decrease in battery life. I'd bet anything the actual reason it wasn't upgraded was so Apple could maintain a slightly higher profit margin.
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Mar 13, 2012 17:11
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Hadlock posted:In addition to GB and GiB, the process of formatting takes up a non-negligible portion of the drive. An unformatted floppy disk is 1.5mb, formatted, it's 1.44mb. Actually, unformatted high density 3.5 inch floppies are approximately 2 MB, and formatted they are about 1.38 MiB. This is why in the 90s, Microsoft had a special way to format them, DMF, that could turn any "1.44 MB" floppy disk into 1680 KB, and there were other formats that could make them hold as much as 1886 KB. The catch was, these higher-storage formats usually meant you could only have a few files on each disk (though they could be large).
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Mar 17, 2012 16:45
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Busy Bee posted:I have a question about replacing my Comcast Motorola modem. If you get a DOCSIS 3 compatible modem, you'll be more ready for future developments in cable tech. If you buy a DOCSIS 2 only modem now, then you might have to replace it in a few years depending on what Comcast does.
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Apr 3, 2012 07:18
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IT Guy posted:Just a note, if you have UAC turned on That shouldn't be an "if".
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Apr 6, 2012 21:55
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Duke Chin posted:Here's a short little question that I couldn't really think where to ask soooo, I guess here. There's also the Logitech Dinovo Mini, which does the same thing, but that would be about 3x the price: http://www.logitech.com/en-us/keyboards/keyboard/devices/3848
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Apr 18, 2012 15:07
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Hamburglar posted:No, but a lot of TVs do not do 1080p over component even though the TV is 1080p and component is capable of doing 1080p. Don't ask me why that's the case, though. It's because 1080p is just about at the limit of what analog component video can handle. Rather then spend extra money on ensuring the TVs can receive it properly, manufacturers usually only test and support up to 1080i, since after all, there are very few 1080p sets and 1080p-outputting devices that won't also have HDMI on 'em. Similarly, most devices that can output 1080p, and can output over component, will rarely output 1080p over the component link, again because it's close to the limit of what can be handled and the manufacturer can save money by not bothering.
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Apr 30, 2012 16:03
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Hamburglar posted:Thanks, I am surprised there's any money to be saved since the TV is already 1080p. My TV also only does 768p over VGA, which is also weird because I know VGA can do 1080p just fine. I see what you're saying though; how many people have 1080p devices that don't have HDMI and all, but the XBox 360 has millions of units out there 1080p capable with no HDMI port. Funny thing about those 360s. The original models, which lacked HDMI, were the most vulnerable to that red ring of death stuff, and the replacements Microsoft sent back were usually HDMI-equipped models, especially after 2007. The high failure rate means that many or even most of the pre-HDMI Pro and Core models have been replaced with HDMI-capable ones.
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Apr 30, 2012 17:13
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Silver Alicorn posted:Weird, it came in a lot of old computer/office equipment. There was also a switch to share a single phone line, for modems I guess. I'd assume you could maybe hook up an ADB keyboard/mouse and share it with multiple Apple IIGSes though, since they daisy chain. It says Data Transfer Switch on it, so I'm thinking it's probably using the old Macintosh/Apple II serial ports that used the round mini-din plugs.
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May 12, 2012 21:23
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Floodixor posted:I bought a 16gig Nook Tablet because I knew that I would have the ability to convert it to an Android tablet with a simple SD card. You can put any size you want in there, up to 32 GB.
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Jun 2, 2012 14:56
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Experto Crede posted:Trying to build a system using a headless laptop as the base. Works fine with the original LCD plugged in, but no joy with just a VGA monitor. Bet you anything there's a key combo you need to press or BIOS setting to go through. Generally the key combo would cycle through options of Laptop LCD Only -> Laptop LCD and External Monitor Simultaneous > External Monitor Only On that laptop, it appears that Fn-F4 is the combo to switch up displays for that, so try that. sirbeefalot posted:Is there such a thing as an adapter to turn a standard USB connection into a wireless link? Like, a transmitter that I can plug into my PC, and a receiver with a USB-B plug to attach to the peripheral? Is this even possible? People make these but the uses tend to be limited. Generally, people only manage to get USB 1.1 speeds (very slow, really only good for keyboard/mouse/slow storage) out of them, the range is limited, and they're flaky.
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Jun 7, 2012 14:47
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Shaocaholica posted:Is there any reason for Nvidia/ATI to continue building 32bit drivers in the next year? 2 Years? Some people still have older computers.
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Jun 20, 2012 20:09
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Shaocaholica posted:Do any 32bit only machines out there need new GPUs? Yes, probably. quote:Thats what the old drivers are for. Chances are they aren't even fixing or optimizing stuff for older GPUs anyway so its not like you'll much of anything with newer drivers for older GPUs. Old enough to be in a 32bit restricted system. You realize that Windows 2000 was still supported by new nVidia drivers up til 2010, and new AMD drivers until 2007 right? It's more than a little early to drop support for 32 bit.
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Jun 20, 2012 22:43
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Shaocaholica posted:Its a bit of a catch 22. Who's using WinXP, Vista32 and Win7-32 that really needs GPU driver 'support' beyond what's already out there? Coporations? Education? People running office apps won't. Digital content creation has mostly if not entirely switched to 64bit. Edu-Science/Engineering is a mixed bag but I would guess they need 64bit more than anyone else for the memory. Whats left? Home users? Games are still being released now that run on 32 bit XP, new cards are still being released that support 32 bit. If both of those end tomorrow it'd still be only fair to support those for another few years. Steam hardware survey, which is a pretty reliable source of info on the computers people who need video driver updates run, says that 34% of users are still on a 32 bit version of Windows!
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Jun 21, 2012 01:03
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Shaocaholica posted:Thats what I meant by a catch 22. Besides, whats the worst that would happen if 32bit graphics driver support ended right now? Gamers would be stuck with whatever drivers as of mid 2012. Big whoop. People would whine for a bit, realize 32bit is dead and upgrade. That's not a catch 22 at all. What would happen is things would be broken for people buying stuff right now, which is not acceptable. 64 bit computers didn't become the majority until the beginning of last year. It is simply unacceptable to lock your customers out this early. It's a good thing people like you aren't in charge of driver releases at the gpu companies!
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Jun 21, 2012 02:07
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