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I'm having a fun time installing a new stereo on a '06 Civic SI I purchased used a while back and could use some help. The last owner switched out the factory unit at some point, so originally I thought it'd be pretty straight forward since it seemed replacing the trim panel to one with a DIN was the most obnoxious part and was already done for me. Then I found out that because the SI has some extra fancy bits in the audio system that the standard '06 Honda connector wouldn't work -- and after opening everything up I found that the last person opted to cut off the factory connector and directly wire the then new unit in to get around this. No biggie, the color for each wire on the old and new unit matched up according to the manuals so I dove in and slowly started to get the old unit's connector out and the new one in, wire by wire. Here's where the problems come in. The last guy did something to the black ground wire and all I can find is a little stub of it on the old connector. I'm sure I didn't cut it myself and I cannot find the matching loose end in the dash. On top of that, one of the other power wires (can't remember if it's the red or yellow off the top of my head, pretty sure it's the red) is also MIA and the guy opted to instead splice the unit's power into the power line for the "passenger airbag off" indicator light. So I'm sitting here with Haynes book for this car looking at the wiring diagram for the sound system (page 12-75 if anyone else has it). I'm guessing that what'll be the best way to go from here is to slowly unbundle the cable keeper for the rest of the sound system until I find the MIA ground and power lines, then go from there. Honda does not use the same color coding as the stereo manufacturer and I'm completely new to this sort of thing so if anyone could help me figure out what the hell I'm looking for for the power I would really appreciate it. Looks like "+B BACK UP" (white) goes to the power, as does "ACC RADIO" (purple). Looking at the stereo's manual it seems like they'd match up to yellow and red on the unit's connector. And I guess the "RADIO GND" is where I might want to ground? Or barring that grounding somewhere on the frame? There's also a mystery female USB cable in there that I have no loving clue what is for, if anyone knows that'd be nice too. I know these are really dumb questions but I hope you guys can forgive me on that as I'm way in over my head. Never did this sort of stuff before, just the usual pop out the old unit, install the new connector, and pop in the new unit installs.
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Jan 9, 2013 05:49
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Raw_Beef posted:Youre going to want a multimeter for that. You can use that to figure out which wires are hot when the key is on and off. As far as your missing ground, that would concern me, id hunt it down if i were you and then see if it really is a ground using the meter.
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Jan 9, 2013 19:21
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For now since the weather sucks I undid his weird splicing and made sure all the power related wires for the stereo connector are taped so they don't risk shorting something else out.Motronic posted:As long as it has a DC setting and can read around 12 volts (it can unless you have some sort of oddball) you'll be fine. Molten Llama posted:A number of aftermarket stereos use them for connecting iPod adapters (or for connecting another female USB cable you can run out to your dash/glovebox/console, which it could itself be if it's pretty long).
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Jan 10, 2013 00:25
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I have a strange problem that's come up twice now, with a couple of weeks in between. Basically when I pushed in the clutch to slow down for a turn my engine cut out and the oil pump and charging system lights came on. Since it's a stick I kind of did the push-start thing while I was still coasting after the turn, pop it in the right gear, let out the clutch, and the engine started up again and the lights went off. Then everything was acting fine. First time I figured maybe I did something wrong, wasn't exactly expecting it to happen and wasn't really paying that much attention outside of making the turn. Tonight it happened again and I know I didn't do something stupid like accidentally ride the gas while pushing in the clutch to get the rpm governor bitchy. I did notice after it happened tonight that when the engine was coming down in rpm after the clutch was pushed in that it'd drop to like the 300-400 area when it usually idles at about 750ish at a stop. So is this something really simple or should I take it straight to the repair shop? Vehicle is a '06 Civic SI.
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Jan 31, 2013 02:13
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some texas redneck posted:Your idle air control valve (IACV) isn't working properly.
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Jan 31, 2013 03:03
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some texas redneck posted:Your idle air control valve (IACV) isn't working properly.
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Jan 31, 2013 04:41
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I've been having some problems with my 2006 Civic Si's A/C freezing up after a while. The low side line is definitely freezing up and I suspect the evaporator is as well, though I haven't been able to confirm it. Anyways after about 30 minutes of driving the airflow out the vents will drop to basically nothing and will stay that way until the car is fully shut off and left to sit for a while. Here's what I've looked into so far: 1. Original blower motor was kind of weak, replaced it. Improvement before freezing but not solving the problem. 2. I do not seem to be able to turn off the compressor with the dash controls -- turning the dial to off just turns off the blower. Only pulling the ac clutch relay seems to do anything. 3. The green LED for the A/C will not turn on regardless of how much you hit the button. While doing the self diagnostic earlier the LED came on so it's definitely getting power. A sentence in the diagnostic pdf I found suggested that this may mean I cannot manually control it at the moment? 4. The self diagnostic returned the following: "8 An open in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit" For #4 do I really have to pull out the evaporator to get at the sensor? The couple of instructions I've seen said so but I'd much prefer to not have to take it to someone to have it drained and then filled. Any suggestions on where else to look or if I should just take it to a local shop are very much appreciated.
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Jun 7, 2013 03:29
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Stupid question I can't seem to find a consensus on -- is it safe to raise a car or SUV up onto 4 jack stands? I'm seeing people say yes and no in my searches. It'll be done on a flat concrete driveway, assuming it is safe of course, to do oil changes & rotation on my civic si and rotation on my sister's smaller SUV.
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Jul 11, 2013 02:34
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Motronic posted:Sure it is.....if the jack stands are properly sized and placed.
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Jul 11, 2013 02:46
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Motronic posted:You should be looking at appropriate. If you don't know what that is from looking under the vehicle you pretty much shouldn't be doing it. I can't give you specific points as I don't know what vehicle you're talking about, but even with specific points you need to know whether they are seated well or not. This involves not only knowing what are appropriate load bearing structures/surfaces but also testing as you lower onto the stands to make sure everything in theory worked out in practice.
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Jul 11, 2013 02:55
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Fucknag posted:E: welp didn't see Motronic's post, that's what I get for not refreshing. Yeah if you've got a friend who knows what to do bring them over to help. 
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Jul 11, 2013 07:36
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Sorry if I've overlooked a tire recommendation thread, did a quick search and didn't notice one, but does Falken make good tires? I'm trying to find some new tires on a fairly tight budget and the Falken Azenis PT-722 seem like a good possibility.melon cat posted:Thanks for all of the info on Plastidip, AI guys. I guess the new car hood isn't the best thing to use it on. Hopefully I'll find a car hood with a colour that's similar enough to the rest of my vehicle.
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Sep 5, 2013 05:56
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Kenny Rogers posted:The Falken Azenis PT-722 are $139 each in my size. The Falkens are pretty tempting since they have a $60 rebate currently, though the Kumho 4X KU22 have a $50 rebate so the final difference isn't that bad. I'm still kind of waffling on which to go with since I haven't had a chance to price out install yet but I appreciate your post. Thanks again.
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Sep 6, 2013 02:23
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Looking at a listing for a 4x4 84 Ford Ranger that popped up locally and the owner notes that it has a 'straight axle.' Is that unusual and will it affect my ability to use it on road?
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Nov 28, 2013 09:41
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VelociBacon posted:It means it isn't bent/broken.
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Nov 28, 2013 12:04
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Noticed something odd with today while fussing with the old truck. When I put the stick in neutral, let off the brake, and pull out the clutch the truck will try to move slightly forward and the engine noise will change (sounds like the rpm drops?). It won't stall or anything if the brake is on, just change noise like before. I can't say I remember any of the other stick shifts I've driven doing that and am a little confused, is that normal or a sign of a problem?
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Nov 30, 2013 21:43
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Ozmiander posted:I managed 32 at the best in my 2.3/5 speed/2wd basic rear end ranger.  An more on light trucks, I'm having some trouble locating info on where the jack points are and where I should stick jack stands for my mazda 87 B2000. Google has been failing me as there were changes over the umpteen years this model was produced and the pictures I've seen so far haven't been entirely helpful. In addition my hayne's book shows the rear jacking point to be the bottom leaf spring in the assembly, that is not connected to the others, which is kind of freaking me out as I've never seen that before.
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Dec 2, 2013 11:52
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Slavvy posted:For axle stands, on the rear it's pretty simple: under the axle. They are literally shaped like semicircles so that an axle can sit on them.  Thanks.
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Dec 2, 2013 16:19
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Got replacement end bolts for the front stabilizer bar of my late 80s mazda b2000 since a friend noticed the original polymer inserts had dry rotted and squished flat while he was helping me change the oil for the first time on the truck. Looking at my hayne's manual it seems like all I should have to do is raise the vehicle onto jack stands, remove the old bolts, loosen the bar bracket that holds the middle of the front stabilizer bar down, put in the new bolts correctly, and then tighten everything down appropriately. But, I'm still new to this and I want to make sure that's all there is to it and doesn't require anything weird or two people to move everything back into position once the old bolts are out. Am I right in thinking it's just this simple?
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Dec 24, 2013 04:18
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Are these worth a drat? I was thinking about sticking one in my truck since it's an occasional driver. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1F4CSK9HMKM55&coliid=I2CTS8HE4D1DUJ Also where does the oxygen sensor wire on a carburated engine go to? A previous owner snipped or broke the wire right at the sensor and my hayne's manual just has replacement info, not where the drat thing's wires go.
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Dec 25, 2013 06:41
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some texas redneck posted:There's usually a tiny box somewhere for it. Where this box resides depends highly on what color the car is. Make and model may help too.  (1987 mazda b2000 SE5)
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Dec 25, 2013 13:44
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Another stupid question: is there any place I can send my old master brake cylinder (or other old parts that can be rebuilt) for rebuilding/recycling? It'd be nice if they sent a few bucks back my way but it isn't necessary.
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Dec 25, 2013 22:27
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some texas redneck posted:Oftentimes, when purchasing a rebuilt part (and if you're getting a parts store master cylinder, it's likely rebuilt), you'll get hit with a core charge - it gets refunded when you return the old part.
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Dec 27, 2013 05:30
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Okay, I've got to change my stabilizer bar end links on my old b2000 and it looks like one snag that could pop up is when the old ones are removed the suspension springs will push the control arm and stabilizer bar far enough apart that the new nut will have trouble going on. I've watched a couple videos on youtube of this work and one guy used a jack to help push the arm back up. He mentions that if you put too much pressure on it with the jack you might have the vehicle try to lift up off the jack stands, which is clearly Very Bad. Another guy said he used a 2x4 wedged in somewhere to pry it down long enough to get the nut started. So my question comes down to, assuming there is enough room for me to do so, could I leave the vehicle on the ground and just let gravity do that work for me? Basically just not raise it in the first place and squeeze myself under as necessary so it won't be able to move apart so much I have to resort to some dubious method to get the nut threaded? Or maybe I could use like oil ramps to do the same basic thing but get it raised up so I have more room to slide under with?
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Jan 12, 2014 05:20
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Cakefool posted:If it had coil springs you'd obviously use spring compressors. I assume it's leaf springs? In which case I'd load the bed up to compress that side, then do the job on oil ramps.
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Jan 12, 2014 12:42
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Goober Peas posted:Was this before/after everything was 10% ethanol? My experience with ethanol blend is that it goes bad substantially quicker than the non-ethanol stuff.
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Jan 13, 2014 06:32
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Motronic posted:Fuel stabilizer doesn't really fix already old fuel, but if by "occasional" you mean it takes you more than 6 months between fill ups you should throw some sta-bil in there as well as keeping it as full as possible.
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Jan 13, 2014 06:39
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I am a moron and didn't wear rubber gloves when switching out a couple rubber bushings about 30 mins ago and now my hands are super nasty. I got most of the grime off with some fast orange, but the rest is not budging. Is there anything else available at auto parts stores that'll take this poo poo off skin better?
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Jan 14, 2014 23:32
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I've alternated a couple times with Dawn and it doesn't seem to be doing much more. Has anyone used Goop or Permatex hand cleaner?
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Jan 14, 2014 23:46
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I picked up a small tub of something similar to Goop but made by Gojo and it worked great! Even got the majority of the stuff stuck under my fingernails with a little coaxing. Extra plus is it doesn't seem to have lanolin in it like Goop does so I don't have to worry about my roomate's allergies going off if I use the tv remote or something. Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jan 15, 2014 |
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Jan 15, 2014 01:40
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I have to replace the thermostat in my truck as it appears to be stuck open (so the engine stays very cool and the cab heater doesn't work) and am currently looking up info on what I need to do. So, Stupid question: My haynes manual says I need to use a RTV sealant on the new cut gasket. Permatex 81160 appears to be advertised as being okay for this. Am I right on that or do I need something else? Already got a tube of Permatex 81160 for a not-car project so it'd be nice to not have to buy another tube of something. Extra stupid question: The cut gasket I got the other day (which is still inside the packaging) appears to have a bit of paper on it. I'm assuming that needs to come off? Sorry this is extra stupid but I don't want to assume either way and gently caress something up.
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Jan 21, 2014 05:51
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I installed a new thermostat in my '87 Mazda b2000 today and it's definitely improved things -- the car starts to warm up properly in like 4-5 minutes now instead of barely registering anything for 30 minutes. But even after driving it for 10 mins or so it's not going much past the bottom C mark on the dash temperature gauge and the cabin heat is still blowing cold. Is there anything else that could cause this other than a stuck open thermostat?
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Jan 27, 2014 03:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did you bleed the cooling system properly? Could have a big air bubble in there still.
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Jan 27, 2014 04:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:This is the general procedure, though on some cars it helps to do so with the front end raised (park it facing up on a driveway, on ramps, etc) and it can take a good long while. On my old 350 in the GMC I could never get it done in one cycle, I'd be topping it off for the next week or two as it kept burping out air.
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Jan 27, 2014 05:22
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My 06 civic si has given me a few odd moments where the starter doesn't turn when I turn the key. I'm going to run through my hayne's manual's checklist to make sure it's not something stupid like the battery or maybe that clutch 'sensor' that keeps you from starting in gear going bad, but just in case it is the starter solenoid -- is that a straight forward thing to replace? The hayne's manual doesn't seem to have a section on it oddly enough. A few references to it but I'm not seeing a diagram showing it or instructions on how to swap it out. ed: oh for the love of god, I hope it isn't the solenoid. Rockauto lists the one for the 2.0L DOHC engine at about $180. For the other civics it's more like $30. 
Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 10:29 on Jan 30, 2014 |
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Jan 30, 2014 10:26
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some texas redneck posted:On most cars today (including your Civic), the solenoid is usually attached to the starter itself - you may as well replace the whole thing if you're pulling it. No click, clutch is all the way down, and it just happens and after a couple times trying to crank it goes back to normal and starts fine. Very intermittent, but since I'm currently a delivery driver it's a bit of a concern that it could act up out in buttfuck nowhere. When this isn't happening the car is very easy to start by the way. It is acting almost like the clutch isn't depressed all the way, though I'm sure it is.
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Jan 30, 2014 23:06
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some texas redneck posted:That almost sounds like the clutch interlock switch is failing. On the plus side if I do temporarily short it both I and the one other person who might maybe drive it in an emergency both learned on 70s stick shifts without the interlock switch, so we're used to always having the clutch down and in neutral when starting anyways. Hell I don't think my 87 mazda truck has one either for that matter.
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Jan 31, 2014 09:37
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Okay, here's an easy one. I've got to install another power outlet in both my vehicles for stupid reasons -- obviously the negative gets grounded on the frame somewhere convenient, but for the positive is there any reason I shouldn't use one of the unused slots in the fuse box? (with a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse like the other accessory slot does obviously, not shorted or anything) I guess also would I need to do any wiring with the fuse box or would the unused slots already be connected to the main?
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Feb 1, 2014 05:44
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Parts Kit posted:Okay, here's an easy one. I've got to install another power outlet in both my vehicles for stupid reasons -- obviously the negative gets grounded on the frame somewhere convenient, but for the positive is there any reason I shouldn't use one of the unused slots in the fuse box? (with a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse like the other accessory slot does obviously, not shorted or anything) That'll solve the issue in the civic nicely, and something similar should work in the truck.
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Feb 2, 2014 07:01
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Would these ramps get a 2006 honda civic si high enough to easily get under for a oil change? http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-119...ds=vehicle+ramp
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Feb 9, 2014 18:34
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