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Splashed out on all new gear because it's bonus time and I've lost 20 kilos since I bought my last gear. Even my helmet didn't fit any more. It's gratifying but gently caress me it's expensive. So some quick capsule reviews from head to toe: Shark S700 helmet. This is like loving irritatingly good for a helmet that costs literally half what my last AGV did. Fit is perfect, and there's some really nice touches like little pockets in the foam over the ears for speakers, a Pinlock included in the price, and a really nice-feeling visor latch that seals really well but isn't stiff. Bad points - it's somehow much more muffled at low speed (nigh impossible to hear someone talking to you) and much noisier at high speed than the old AGV, despite having vents that don't actually seem to do anything at all. The built-in sun visor rubs on the tip of my nose, and the helmet generally feels a bit more claustrophobic. But for £150 with a 4-star safety rating it's ridiculously good value. BKS Vanquish jacket and jeans: BKS are a brand best-known for being the leathers of choice of UK Police bikers and for making really loving nice made-to-measure stuff. They stopped making off-the-peg stuff for quite a while but have started again - as with before the off-the-peg stuff is made to the same designs and (allegedly) same quality standards as their made-to-measure stuff, but in foreign factories (Bangladesh and China). This jacket and jeans are made specifically to zip together with the full-length zip mounted higher in the jacket than normal, and the jeans equivalently high-waisted. It also has a half-zip in a more conventional space secured with neoprene for a bit of stretch to use it with other jeans (the jeans liewise have their half-zip attached lower than the full zip). The higher waist than most jeans makes them a lot more comfortable than normal two-pieces IMO. Leather is cowhide with a really nice tight grain (looks more like kangaroo leather) and the (kevlar) stitching is really nice double-seaming that looks like it could stop a bullet on it's own. There's goretex stretch panels under the arms and at the groin and ankles, and the whole thing is showerproof, but I probably wouldn't trust it in fully-wet weather. The stretch panels do a pretty good job of cooling you at speed but it's badly let down by a nylon inner shell which is pretty sweaty when you're not moving. Other than that they're really comfortable straight off the bat. There's a waterproof nylon panel behind the jacket zip which also includes a storm pocket which seems like it'll be decently waterproof for phone and wallet. The removable thermal shell has an odd little pocket that looks like it might be for driving documents or something. Certainly while it's pretty big (about 8x6 inches) and has a little window in it, making it look like it'd be for a phone, it doesn't expand at all and a phone in there just rattles around. Bad points - the pockets are tiny, like too small for a phone, and pretty uncomfortable even with just keys in them (apart from the aforementioned storm pocket). The styling is a bit meh - functional is the best I can say about it - and the collar closure somehow never manages to secure properly when you want it to and yet superglues itself closed the moment you try and take the jacket off. The shell is, as I say, nylon, which is a bit nasty and sweaty but at least makes getting the jeans on and off nice and easy. Also (presumably as a costcutting measure) while it comes with CE armour at knees and elbow, there's none at hip and (unforgivably IMO) only a light foam back protector. Luckily I had a good one from my old jacket, which fits well, and the jacket is still comfortable with it in. The hip armour pockets are much larger than normal ones, and presumably you have to buy BKS' own armour to go in there. Again though - at this price point (£200 for the jacket, £170 for the jeans) this is spectacularly good value for money. Also bought a couple of bits of luggage: RENNTEC panniers and tail pack: Quite a nice set of soft luggage, even if they're a pain to get on and off (takes about ten minutes once you suss out how it's done). The panniers secure with two big velcro straps and a nylon loop to go round your pillion pegs and to each other with two straps that go round your tail tidy (watch they're not resting on your indicators) and the tail pack secures to the straps with another velcro flap and to the panniers with four really fiddly straps. Stays solidly in place at 3-digit speeds, comes with neoprene panels to stop it from scratching the plastic. They're a useful size (~20 litres each for the panniers, ~30 litres for the tail pack, with a couple of little pockets on each. More than enough for a week's clothing as long as you don't care about squashing them in a bit. A nice touch is the panniers have carry handles that snap together to let you carry them as one bag off the bike, and there's a nice sturdy handle on the tail pack too, and it comes with shoulder straps and a couple of spare bungees (which is nice but a bit pointless, see below). No problems with the (heat-shielded) underseat exhaust on the Shiver and should stay fairly clear of conventional exuasts. Bad bits - not even vaguely waterproof, they come with rain covers which are only elasticated and don't give me a lot of confidence that they'd stay on long term. No securing points for bungees (either to attach more stuff to them or to hold them in place if you're feeling paranoid), and the zips are really easily jammed. There's also no provision for locking them closed or to the bike (which is fair enough as they're only nylon so someone who really wanted to get in could just cut them) which always leaves you a bit paranoid about leaving them on the bike when filling up/eating. They also feel generally a bit cheap and nasty. Overall good enough for an occasional tour, but probably not the thing for going continent-bashing. Finally - Givi XS307 tank bag. This is one of those that snaps onto a ring you put on the fuel filler surround. Good points first - handy size (I keep my tools, Kindle, and waterproofs in it and there's probably room for a change of clothes if you're off on a quick trip), nice big map pocket on the top (with a separate, snap-on pocket for holding a tablet if that's your thing, the latter coming with a conductive screen that should work with most touchscreens), a little cable entry point at the front (handy for the USB charger I have on the bike), and the normal good solid feel that Givi stuff has. You can move the mounting ring backwards and forwards about six inches to get it to fit right on your particular tank (an essential for the Shiver with it's weird filler placement, right at the back of the "tank" (most of it's actually airbox). Comes with a rain cover *and* a waterproof inner bag. Bad point - this one is unforgivable for the price point this bag's at, IMO. The base of the bag and mounting ring are a hard plastic and while the mounting ring is, I guess, supposed to keep the base clear of the tank, the base has enough flex to hit the tank when at speed which will eventually scratch the paint. There's a lip around the base which is probably supposed to reduce that flex but of course all it actually does is provide a nice sharp point to guarantee damage. Other, much cheaper, bags come with a neoprene or similar soft pad over the base for exactly this reason, why can't Givi do this? I've improvised with a bit of foam insulation tape for now but for £120 (including mounting ring) I'd expect much, much better. Now it's time to put all this poo poo in the cupboard because it's autumn already, and forget I have it by next spring 
goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 22:08
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Marxalot posted:Anyone have any suggestions for non-heated winter gloves that are still fairly protective? Those look like they're not particularly warm, and I'm always nervous about "all weather" gloves as my experience is that they're not warm enough for winter and not cool enough for summer. http://www.getgeared.co.uk/weise-mo...m_source=google I've got these and they're easily the best compromise between warmth and bulk I've ever had. They're certainly okay down to freezing for extended journeys (as long as the rest of your kit is okay). The other, much-less-sexy but very practical alternative, is bar muffs for winter and waterproofing your summer gloves.
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Sep 24, 2014 07:43
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Lynza posted:I think an important thing to remember is that, basically, no glove is waterproof. They'll talk a big game, but frankly, some water's gonna get in there eventually. If you're doing commuting stuff (15+ miles, or more than a half hour in the rain), you may want to see about adding extra waterproofing to existing gloves that claim to be waterproof. I use the Danner stuff for waterproofing boots, and it works pretty well. My fingers were still damp when I got to work this morning, though. Those Wiese ones I posted about above have been waterproof through two hours at motorway speeds in pissing rain. Well technically the right one let in some water because the cuff escaped the cuff of my jacket and water ran in from there but that's not a fault of the gloves. In fact I've never known proper winter gloves to leak when new because it's such an easy thing to get right even if it is difficult to keep them waterproof with wear.
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Sep 25, 2014 16:09
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Lynza posted:My tank bag actually does have the little rain cover, which I've been using. It still gets pretty wet in there, though. It's where I keep my phone, so I'd really rather not have any moisture in there if I can help it. Are you sure that's not moisture getting in from the bottom of the bag? Might be as simple as just putting some of that nylon waterproofing stuff (or vaseline if you're cheap) on it - might as well do the seams and zips while you're at it, and that'll make it much more waterproof generally.
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Oct 5, 2014 21:12
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M42 posted:Oh, I mean separate brands. I'll try the tailor thing though. Make sure the tailor actually does bike leathers - sewing machines designed for half-grain and quarter-grain (which most fashion leather clothes are made of) may not be able to work well or at all trying to get through a whole hide, and the thread or stitch may not be strong enough to be crashproof. A bike-specific tailor will probably have kevlar thread and neoprene-backed zips, both of which aren't absolutely necessary but make things a shitload better (the kevlar should be self-explanatory, the neoprene means you have a bit of give to let you move around.
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Oct 23, 2014 22:40
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Last year I picked up a couple of electrically heated glove liners at Aldi for £10. I only used them the once as I have more sense than to go out for long rides in the freezing cold but they seemed to work really well - obviously being inside the glove rather than outside like heated grips means they draw a lot less power than heated grips, although I still rigged up a thing to run them off my USB charger already on the bike in case I ever do need to use them for a long time). Might be worth looking around for them in outdoor type shops rather than bike shops. goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Nov 7, 2014 |
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Nov 7, 2014 22:17
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Razzled posted:my vagina is thoroughly frozen. That'll be an interesting crash report to fill out at least.
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Nov 14, 2014 17:03
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Lynza posted:Yeah, the little disposable hand warmers might be great if you're not going to be riding in cold temps a lot. At the very least, they're a cheap option until you can find something better. It depends a lot on where you're riding as much as temperature. Like I'm okay down to freezing on motorways but riding through town in that weather murders my fingers because they keep touching the ice-cold levers.
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Nov 14, 2014 20:46
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:My other scooter, a Zuma 125, does have handguards. Cosmetic BarkBuster-types. And they do help quite a bit, though they aren't very big. I'd suck it up and go with something like Hippo Hands, those big nylon insulated muffs that cover your whole hand, but I'd have to relocate my turnsignals and I don't want with that. Handguards don't help much at city speeds IMO - wind chill at 20-30 mph is a factor, sure, but not a big one with any decent gloves. To answer your original question - fundamentally there's a limit to how much gloves can do and still leave your hands usable because hands are really hard to keep warm, and you need a lot of bulky insulation to do that. That's why bar muffs and the like keep your hands quite so warm - they can be really bulky plus they vastly reduce the surface area being cooled. Once you've got a decent pair of gloves your next step should be adding layers to your core - keeping your core temperature up will keep up blood flow to your hands and keep them feeling warmer. (Oh and wearing less insulation on one hand will tend to leave both hands feeling cold for the same reason)
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Nov 16, 2014 10:42
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Can anyone recommend a universal (I've got a Galaxy S4) handlebar mount that they like, that would also work on a bicycle? I was about to buy a cheapo whatever one for my road bike on eBay, realized I'd be happier spending more money to get something decent that I can use on either one, that won't fall apart and drop my phone onto the asphalt. RAM mounts are pretty good but way expensive for what they are, IMO. The Givi S950 works really well, is waterproof and has cable routing too. The only drawback is they're a little on the small side - most mid-sized phones (iphones etc) will fit okay but if you've got one of the larger ones it may not fir comfortably or at all.
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Nov 18, 2014 17:38
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nsaP posted:Unless the exchange rate has flipped, the mount you posted is more expensive. Last time I looked a ram mount and a phone cradle came to about 50 quid. The mount itself (clamp and arm) cost more than that Givi holder. Maybe they're much cheaper in the States?
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Nov 18, 2014 21:37
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builds character posted:It is, but they say it won't work with anything but their two new made-for-it jackets. I assume that's wrong too or at least that there will be other aftermarket jackets with which it works but I'm having a hard time finding reliable stuff out there that's not just press releases. Compatible presumably means some sort of stress-relief in the seams because otherwise when the airbags go off they're going to try and squeeze your internal organs out of whichever orifice is nearest. (This is assuming this is for the chest and back-protecting airbag system, not the older one that just (attempts to) protect your coccyx and a couple of cervical vertebra)
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Nov 30, 2014 22:30
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Slavvy posted:I've never handled an Icon of any kind but I've seen/worn the S700 and I wasn't particularly impressed. The S700 is really good for the money, but it's still a cheap helmet, and it's noisy as hell compared to the AGVs I used before. If it fits you and you don't mind needing earplugs even at relatively low speed I'd say go for it even despite that though.
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Jan 27, 2015 08:14
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Crotch Fruit posted:Helmet stick on is not bad, but if I am getting new BT, might as well keep my hands on the handlebars, right? I would at least like to be able answer calls without releasing the handlebars, it just seems safer to me, it's ironic i know. I'd say a situation where it's not safe for you to have one hand off the bars for two seconds isn't a situation you should be answering the phone in anyway.
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Feb 22, 2015 15:29
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Crotch Fruit posted:
I use a bluetooth thing myself. The point I was making is that you will often have your hands off the bars for longer than that (adjusting visor or vents, checking zips, making appropriate gestures at other road users, etc) and so presumably have the common sense to not do that in situations where you need both hands on the bars (heavy traffic, slippery road conditions, other road users attempting to assassinate you) and those are not the situations where you should be answering a phone call, no matter how the button to do so is mounted. alnilam posted:IIRC I think some studies have found that even hands-free phone conversations while driving a car impair driving considerably. Something about conversing with a person who is not there really messes with your brain. Also the noise on mobile phones seems to take up far more processing time in your brain than talking to someone next to you. Weirdly this isn't anywhere near as much an issue with analogue and POTS phones (although presumably you'd need a hell of an extension cord for the latter) - if you play people an audio stream of someone talking with white noise interjected they can understand it much more easily than with silence interjected. One theory is that our brains are adapted to dealing with wind noise and stuff and can filter it out efficiently but can't cope with silences.
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Feb 23, 2015 00:34
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Slavvy posted:Considering how many near-crashes I've witnessed just from people talking to the person sitting next to them in a car, and the fact that bikes are so much more dangerous and require so much more concentration just makes it seem like talking on the phone is a terrible idea in general. I wouldn't argue with that, to be honest. Unless I'm on the motorway my conversations are generally just quick "Yeah I'm on the bike, call you back in a bit" sort of things because we all know how quickly poo poo can go sideways out of nowhere on a bike. The Bluetooth is mostly for music and for when I'm on call at work and get a massive bollocking if I don't answer the phone.
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Feb 23, 2015 00:58
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Crotch Fruit posted:I can completely agree there are a lot of times where conversing on a bike or answering a call are a bad idea, I just don't agree that having a button on he handlebars is less safe. Sure it's more convenient and possibly more distracting, but otherwise I think it is inherently safer to move your thumb instead of your whole arm, just have to be responsible. I'm not saying it's less safe, just that it's not more safe or convenient.
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Feb 23, 2015 07:40
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The heel and blade of your hand are going to be the first things that hit the floor - and hit it hard - in almost any given crash, so extra protection there is pretty much essential.
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Mar 6, 2015 08:17
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iwentdoodie posted:I have a K3. Kind of narrow, but that's about all I can say. Shoei helmets fit me weird, Arai fits great, and the AGV fits more like an Arai. AGV are sort of half-way between Shoei and Arai fit-wise. In the last two years I've lost enough weight that AGV are now pretty loose around the ears. I know I should probably go to Shoei (which used to fit me perfectly before I got fat) but gently caress me their helmets are boring and expensive - my Shark fits perfectly and cost not much more than a replacement visor for my old GP-Tech, despite having the same safety rating. Admittedly it's noisy as gently caress but that's what earplugs are for.
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Mar 29, 2015 20:38
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Slavvy posted:Heads are weird. Shoei is the only brand I've tried that fits perfectly. AGV as stated is very similar but feels cheaper and is noisy as gently caress. Sharks feel really tight and small and the wrong shape entirely for me. Shark actually has a massive amount of variation in their range, which is even weirder. The S range are pretty close to Shoei fit but the R range feel much rounder, like Arai, and the cool one I really wanted that I can't remember the name of didn't feel like it was fitted for any human being (it was tight all round and yet still left a gap over the crown of my head).
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Mar 30, 2015 07:03
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Zosologist posted:So I just got my first bike in years, I'm looking to get some music and maybe intercom in my helmet, what are my options? Everyone's got their own favourites but I really like my Scala Rider - works really well and fantastic battery life, and their customer service is really good.
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Mar 30, 2015 07:04
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Radbot posted:It's really not. MotorcycleGear.com sells tons of FirsrGear stuff that is for-reals waterproof without a liner. I have one, it cost $200 or so on sale, it has a Gore-Tex ripoff material in it. I love it. Gore-tex vents - my leathers have them and they work just fine in showers, although they won't stop a full-on monsoon. Failing that my winter jacket (it's meant to be a four-season jacket but I never wear it in the summer) has vents that are (pretty much) waterproof when closed, the waterproof liner takes care of anything that manages to make it through.
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Apr 2, 2015 14:59
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HAMAS HATE BOAT posted:I'm not looking for anything, i was responding to the guy saying all tex was waterproof - when I was looking for gear, I found the majority of textile is not. Looks like the current market is maybe a bit more mixed, but still there is a ton of textile gear, even marketed as GTX, that relies on a zip-in waterproof liner A waterproof liner is actually a pretty good idea. It's very difficult to make a waterproof jacket - particularly the seams - that is also crashproof, and that will stay waterproof after a few hundred hours in 70 mph winds. At best you end up with something that is waterproof for a few months but starts leaking in water at the shoulders and crotch, at worst the seams will fail in a crash and you're hosed. Goretex is also only waterproof in the short term - it will let water through if it's allowed to sit on it for long enough - most jackets marketed as goretex have the inner liner made out of the stuff because goretex isn't really very crashproof at all. Personally I've long since given up looking for a true year-round jacket (even with the much milder temperature extremes we get in the UK) and just wear my nicely-vented leathers in the summer, and resign myself to getting wet if I do happen to get caught in the rain (although I do keep a noddy suit in my tank bag if it looks like it's likely to rain). Having said that my last (non-vented) leather jacket was actually almost entirely waterproof with minimal modification (Renapur on the leather, Vaseline on the seams) - certainly moreso than the supposedly waterproof textile jacket I had at the time.
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Apr 2, 2015 16:48
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Renaissance Robot posted:Anyone going this route might want to look into getting some compression fit base layers (the spandexy type stuff). The much-touted wicking effect that makes them good sportswear means that you can get soaked through but when you take the thing off almost all of the water will go with it. If I can't remember to carry waterproofs what chance do you think there'll be I'll remember to wear magic underwear? Also I may be doing the wrong kind of riding if at my destination I can get buck naked and yet still have to worry about whether or not my skin is dry. (Actually I have got some of that baselayer stuff, supposedly specially designed for bikers even though it looks identical to the sports stuff, and it does work really well at reducing the sweatiness and fatigue at the end of a long ride)
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Apr 3, 2015 20:21
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rockcity posted:It could be a coating on the face shield or the angle of the shield is changing the polarization from your sunglasses. I get the same weird rainbow effect looking at some people's rear windows when I'm driving in my car if I have my polarized sunglasses on. That's caused by stresses in the glass introduced by the tempering process changing the polarisation of the light. Most sunglasses should be circular-polarised, which tends to amplify that effect. straight-polarised glasses (normally vertical) are sold for skiers, where the glare is all likely to be from one direction, which minimises the rainbow effect but is useless if the glare is from a vertical surface like a building (and will probably make your LCD instruments unreadable). Some people use passive 3D glasses which have one eye horizontal-polarised and one vertical-polarised and literally just close one eye if needed but this is sub-optimal for fairly obvious reasons.
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Apr 18, 2015 10:05
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'm looking for some textile over-trousers that zip all or most of the way up. I know a lot of aerostich pants do this, but are there any makes/models at a lower price point people can recommend? By overtrousers to you mean with armour or just waterproofs/extra insulation to go over existing armoured trews?
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Apr 20, 2015 17:18
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VERTiG0 posted:Do you guys do anything to treat your leather jackets, like using leather conditioner or any of that poo poo like you would on a normal, fashionable leather jacket? Renapur. Thank me later.
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Apr 21, 2015 22:58
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Lynza posted:I have some good leather gloves, and they're still a bit tight (which is how they should be, they're not really broken in yet). What would you guys recommend to use to loosen them up a bit? I was thinking something like mink oil or leather conditioner of some sort, but if anyone has a better suggestion, I'm all ears. goddamnedtwisto posted:Renapur.
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Apr 22, 2015 09:19
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astrollinthepork posted:I am rather sick of lugging a backpack around and want a top case for my 919. The idea of picking up a pizza on a bike is super sexy. I have examined Givi cases at a shop before, and they really are too much for what they are. I was expecting something rather sturdy and lined. Not rubbermaid like containers. I don't mind that, but the price is rather stupid. Does anyone do it cheaper? The point of the flex in the Givi hard cases is to make them much more crashproof - something harder would be more likely to crack/shatter if you dropped the bike. I've dragged a Givi topbox on the ground doing 12 o'clock wheelies on a loan scooter (why agree to a loan scooter if you're not going to performance-test it?) and it barely even registered it. I agree they are pretty pricy but they're the de-facto standard for a reason - especially as I don't think, outside of really cheap crap, anyone does it particularly cheaper than them. (Of course if all you want is to carry pizza, then this will do you...
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Apr 26, 2015 21:54
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Ghost Cactus posted:I have 5 year old A Stars SMX 5 boots and the Velcro is shot so they don't stay closed when I tuck my pants into them. What road boots should I get that come in small foot sizes but big calf sizes? (I've got cycling calves.) I was looking at SMX Plus boots, but I don't race or anything so they might be overkill. If the boots are in otherwise good condition a place that does leather repairs should be able to replace the velcro pretty easily and cheaply. If you just want new boots I can confirm Sidi are good quality and very crash-proof - the only niggle is they do squeak a lot when you're walking in them, bend them right forward and rub a candle on the edges of the plates to stop that.
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Apr 27, 2015 22:39
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Maybe you don't get sunburned, but I do under a clear visor. You must be buying some cheap loving visors, because any decent visor will be UV-blocking (not least because UV makes polycarbonate yellow and brittle).
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May 2, 2015 00:17
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:I have the icon ones that also cover the shin. Fit in nicely with boots. Aren't too bulky or cumbersome. I haven't gone done with them though so... The only concern I'd have with them is how well they'd stay in place in a crash - presumably they're just held on with velcro? I suppose as long as they stay in place long enough to absorb the initial impact then that's most of their job done there.
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May 8, 2015 22:17
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astrollinthepork posted:I have come to the conclusion that for me personally, earbuds just aren't going to work. After having a job in a loud industrial environment in my teens, as well as shooting from time to time, I may be more anal about my hearing than most. Etymotics seems to be the one company that does NRR rated earbuds with good sound, but I think you are going to find out what I did in that they are just too big. Other options are sound like garbage from what I am told. I'll be honest normal earplugs with helmet speakers seems like the best compromise to me - it might not give you the best sound quality but gives you much more actual protection, and also saves the pain (figurative and literal) of managing earbuds inside a crash helmet.
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May 9, 2015 21:30
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Seashell Salesman posted:I just started commuting to work this week in a Shoei Qwest helmet, and until today it was working fine with no fogging. Today, however, the visor was 100% fogged up the entire trip and it scared the poo poo out of me. I'm actually kind of dreading riding home now. I did notice that one of the vents on the back of the helmet was closed when I arrived at work, but I haven't noticed much airflow through the helmet up to now anyway. Probably just the right (wrong) conditions. Just open your visor and it should clear, if it happens again. Having exhaust vents closed vastly reduces the amount of airflow and a well-designed helmet will pull a lot of air across the inside of the visor without you noticing it) One other possibility - have you recently cleaned the visor? It may be you've used something too harsh and put microscratches in it which vastly increase the amount of fogging - alternatively dirt and dust can have the same effect, so give it a quick rinse.
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May 14, 2015 22:34
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Renaissance Robot posted:What sort of features should I be looking for in babby's first tank bag? Mostly looking for a place to stash a bottle of water, tablet, extra set of gloves, that kind of thing. First of all find out whether your tank is metal or plastic (and if metal make sure it's not aluminium), because a non-ferrous tank rules out a lot of tank bags. Magnetic tank bags *must* have neoprene or similar undersides and padding round the magnets or they'll scratch the poo poo out of your tank. Non-magnetic tank bags are a pain, there's three main mounting options - normal straps on the bag (fiddly, take an age to take off and put on) - again make sure it's neoprene or similar on the bottom to stop it scratching your paint, a tank bra (permanent strapped mount which the bag clips to - convenient but look like poo poo IMO) and the Givi quick lock system (also used by a few other manufacturers) which is a ring you attach to your filler cap, which the bag clips to. Looks a bit silly with the bag off the bike (like you've got an ashtray on your tank) but by far the quickest and most convenient mounting system, but probably the most expensive too and also limited to only pretty small bags. As to the bag itself, a map/tablet pocket on the top is nice, cable entry and/or charging sockets inside are nicer (but might be a pain to wire up) are also nice, but the only essential is a separate internal waterproof bag and/or a storm cover because they all have big zips and even the best zip eventually leaks. Also make sure you take the bike to a shop rather than ordering online sight unseen to make sure the bag you get doesn't interfere with controls or your riding position. I use this to carry my waterproofs, toolkit, and kindle for my commute - it has all of the features above except the charging socket and even with that stuff in has enough spare space for a couple of extra bits and bobs as needed.
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May 25, 2015 11:24
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monsterzero posted:Full face. Try them on, the one that fits the best is the best one for you. When you think you have a good one, wear it in the store long enough that you start to annoy the sales staff. This is a pretty good fit guide: http://www.helmetcheck.org/thefit.aspx Also a reminder that more money does not equal safer. Although the testing scheme is controversial, the SHARP website at least lets you compare relative levels of protection between brands/models, and you'd be surprised how many >£300 helmets are outperformed by >£100 ones. Features beyond safety you should be looking for (get as many as you can within your price range): - removable/washable/antibacterial (again as many of those three as you can afford) linings, especially if you're doing a lot of miles or are in a hot area and are likely to get sweaty - Pinlock visor pre-fitted - they're available for almost all visors but you may need to buy a whole new visor as well as the pinlock; this is more or less a necessity if you're likely to be out in the cold and wet. - Multiple shells (the more the better) - this is a feature of the model not the helmet itself. If your head is any smaller than the biggest they fit, you don't want to have the XL shell because it'll cause more drag - Ear pockets and cable tidiesor other provision for speakers, (obviously not a concern if you're never going to use speakers) There are other factors like aero and noise, but obviously you can't tell that by putting them on, so look round for reviews.
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Jun 3, 2015 23:40
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tirinal posted:I was recently gifted a ridiculously sexy armored leather jacket after wearing textiles pretty much my entire riding career. So far I'm fine with the weight and the heat; it's the threat of rain that annoys. Is there a goonmind-approved spray that would make it wearable in downpours? Renapur. Not a spray, but will waterproof it and protect it generally.
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Jun 6, 2015 09:59
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A lot of racers just stuff a small back protector down the front of their leathers. Given all you're trying to protect is a relatively small area (about 4 inches either side of your sternum, from your solar plexus up to just below your collarbone) and you only need to protect it against direct blunt force, not twisting or hyperextension like you do with your spine, even that's probably overkill.
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Jun 9, 2015 15:41
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MetaJew posted:This is sort of a non-answer. Of course the best helmet is the one that fits the best, but if they fit equally well, what are other factors of these two models that might sway me one way or another? On literally the last page... goddamnedtwisto posted:Also a reminder that more money does not equal safer. Although the testing scheme is controversial, the SHARP website at least lets you compare relative levels of protection between brands/models, and you'd be surprised how many >£300 helmets are outperformed by >£100 ones.
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Jun 10, 2015 22:42
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MetaJew posted:I don't believe that Shoei makes an inferior product with respect to crash safety. Is there some evidence saying it is? http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testsratings/shoei-gt-air versus http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testsratings/viper-rs-33 or, if you insist on 5-star: http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/testsratings/duchinni-d832
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Jun 10, 2015 23:09
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