House Bunny Fanatics: I can't deal with this one floppy ear

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Pet Island > House Bunny Fanatics: I can't deal with this one floppy ear

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

For anyone considering taking in a second rabbit to accompany their first, please do. One bunny is curious, two bunnies make Lewis and Clark. Many good times are to be had (when they're not snuggle buddies). Rabbits are social creatures, so more than one is fitting. To avoid them fighting the first moment they meet one another, I've heard that it's a good idea to get them used to one another's smells first.

Tinkerhell posted:

...The only problem was that she propelled herself with poop. I swear ever 5 hops there was a little pellet on the ground. I think she got the hang of peeing in the cage but it was like she didn't even know she was pooping.

Have you ever read Hansel and Gretyl? The crumb trail reflects your situation.

Pictures of Sugar soon, I swear.

# ¿ Aug 7, 2007 20:37

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# ¿ May 7, 2024 01:40

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

Sugar on top of kitty-thing...

Sugar in front of kitty-thing...

What a little Sugarloaf. Blue eyes, too. Sugar does something I've never seen another rabbit do: He waves.

When he wants attention or when greeting me, he alternates rearing up his front paws very rapidly, sometimes against the plastic of the cage to make the clicking noise. He does this outside of the cage as well. I think this is bunny language for "I want attention".

He'll "wave" at me when he wants me to play with him or follow him. Usually, it's so I can follow him to his favorite lounge spot for petting.

# ¿ Sep 16, 2007 21:59

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

Girlscout advised me to seek help on this thread. Thank you.

I am seriously considering adopting a rabbit as a companion for the one I currently have. If anyone with experience could PM me/reply on the forums with good advice regarding owning more than one rabbit, please feel free! I need to convince my mother that owning another rabbit is a good decision. We have the space, I have money, my rabbit is not messy, and he loves human companionship as it is...but rabbits are social creatures. I always thought it was sensible to own two or more rabbits at a time, not one.

This thread should explain my situation.
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2627597

# ¿ Sep 17, 2007 17:52

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

I would consult a vet as to what chemicals act abrasively towards rodents. Because this is "pet wipes", you can assume that the formula is different from Cottonelle or other people brands. It doesn't specify what kind of animal to use it on, though? I've never heard of animals bigger than a rabbit needing a specially made buttwipe, so I wouldn't doubt it being for delicate animals.

# ¿ Sep 17, 2007 21:30

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

Girlscoutdropout, have you seen this before? http://www.rabbitnetwork.org/articles/bond.shtml

There's a tactic specified that includes "stressing" the rabbits in an attempt to make them bond. It seems really interesting. God forbid your rabbits should get into a brawl, but if you have a loud vacuum cleaner on hand, it would scare them into huddling together.

# ¿ Sep 18, 2007 00:04

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

girlscoutdropout posted:

Nope, nothing scares them. It's funny that you mention vaccuuming. Lucy loves the vaccuum. I can't vaccuum with her in the room because she just runs up and shoves her back up against the vaccuum. It's a great (and fast) way to remove loose fur haha. I just can't believe a bunny would let me do that. Jack doesn't even move when I try to vaccuum, he's so lazy. I've tried using loud music, putting them in the car together...nothing works. But, like I said, I think they're making slow progress. They don't growl and "box" anymore at least.

Thanks for the tip though!

You have a fearless soldier, ready to rub her butt against any threat. Do you think it's the vibrations along her muscles? Kinda like a massage?

That's another weird thing I found out about my rabbit. He likes backrubs. The midback is usually where predators grab rabbits, so he shouldn't LIKE being carried or getting backrubs. But he's cuddly in my arms and he lets me give him massages, from nose to almost-tail.

I'm going to videotape it for you guys. He chatters his teeth and everything.

# ¿ Sep 18, 2007 01:31

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

TheDeadknow, how does Thumper's backyard look? Are there weeds he might have eaten? Some plants could be poisonous...dehydration...snake bites...insect bites...overheated...

# ¿ Nov 30, 2007 01:21

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

I received a very good response from Alucinor regarding an inquiry about rabbit neuters. I expected a short sentence or two, but this information is too valuable to be kept in my Private Messages box. Hopefully, it will aid others that are interested in rabbits, and educate everyone else a bit on vets/rescue clinics. I can't thank Alucinor enough. I'm much more aware of my options regarding adoption centers AND veterinary clinics. Alucinor's response can also be viewed as the summation of a few other informative posts that are scattered here and there throughout this thread and PI, so ideally, folks can get a few questions answered without searching too hard. Hope this helps.

alucinor posted:

$140 is actually pretty reasonable for a rabbit neuter. I get a rescue discount, and I still pay over $100 for a spay. The best vet in my area charges over $200 for a neuter, $250 for a spay.

All exotic medicine is more expensive than dog/cat medicine, for two reasons: first, because they require specialized, smaller equipment, and often they require a more labor-intensive surgery because they are so prone to post-op infecion. For example, you can go out and lop off a cat's nuts while wearing your street clothes and the cat laying on an old towel... the testes are external and not likely to be wiped on the ground that much, so you don't have to be super cautious. But for a rabbit neuter, you have to maintain a sterile surgical field (gown, mask, gloves, drape over the rabbit, whole 9 yards) because their nuts are partially internal, and they sit on them, in a filthy litterbox, about 20 hours out of the day. You also have to use a more complex procedure (tying off the inguinal ring, etc) and special anesthesia equipment (a cat mask won't fit a rabbit). All that extra equipment and time adds up to more $$.

The second reason is that rabbit medicine isn't taught in vet school. My rabbit-savvy friend is in her 3rd year and hasn't even had rabbit gross anatomy, much less rabbit surgical procedures. So most vets who want to do rabbit work have to get an exotic specialty, which means extra schooling, which means more loans... you see where this is going. Going to an exotics vet is not dissimilar to going to a brain surgeon. It costs more, but you really don't want a general practitioner loving around in there.

It's pretty hard to find low cost S/N for exotics, and frankly, I'd worry that cheap = less sterile. I've had students do my rescue neuters under less than sterile conditions, and ended up with abscesses that required an expensive course of treatment to clear up. Some cheap vets assume the surgery is the same and end up making procedural mistakes, or using the wrong kind of anesthesia. So over all, you get what you pay for. Of course, you might be lucky and find someone who has all his loans paid off and is doing cheap surgeries for good karma... if so, great!

So yes, that's definitely why adopting an animal from a rescue is a good bargain. Most rescues LOSE money on every animal; I typically spend $250 per intake (pre-adoption vet care, quarantine care, and spay/neuter) and I only charge $70 for a rabbit. You might pay as much as $100-$120 to adopt depending on where you are located, but that's very uncommon, and you can at least console yourself that your animal is DEFINITELY healthy and has no post-neuter complications you'll have to pay for. So it's definitely cheaper for the adopter than buying an intact animal and paying for the surgeries yourself! But, not all rescues are alike. Feel free to inquire extensively about the animal's vet record prior to finalizing the adoption. They are making you promise to take excellent care of the animal, you have a right to make sure that THEY have taken excellent care prior to the animal coming to you. Several people on here have adopted from crappy county shelters where they've gotten pregnant "males" or animals who have never even been vetted. It's not a problem for you to insist on knowing what you're getting into, and a reputable rescue will respect you for your concern.

I'm really glad you're finding the info helpful! After 7 years in rescue I'm getting burnt out; SA is one of the last places where I feel that I can actually provide education to people who care and who listen. The rest of the time I feel like I'm pissing into the wind. So it's a nice change and I'm glad to help!

# ¿ Dec 25, 2007 20:14

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

Internet Explorer posted:

How do rabbits react to stairs? I have plenty of room to build them a nice cage, but I would ultimately like to leave the cage door open and allow them to free roam. Problem is, I have a flight of stairs that has an open back (just the step, no wood/carpet on the back). Would this pose a potential problem for a rabbit? Would it be dangerous or would they most likely stay away? Or would they just hop up them no problem?

I've never seen stairs with open verticals outside of a basement before. It shouldn't be a problem if they wanted to go up, though. Carpeted or cement steps are good. You can also purchase covers (or make them yourself) for the steps. The lack of a backing makes this easier and cheaper to do.

The rabbits I've had love to run upstairs. But they'd sit there at the top and wait for me to pick them up to go downstairs again. You might just want them to be kept upstairs. Or keep a ramp to the side of the stairs so they can move freely. (And you wouldn't be worried about any backing.)

# ¿ Dec 25, 2007 20:28

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

Cowslips Warren posted:

Mo is, Cowslip is not yet. Problem solved if I get her done?

The sooner you get her spayed, the better. It's necessary anyways. (Females are 75% likely to get cancer if they're not spayed.) Don't hold it off. Plus, once you wait around to get her spayed, she might hold on to old annoying habits. Lop off her easter basket ASAP.

# ¿ Dec 26, 2007 22:58

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

I thought I about killed my rabbit when he was eating some sort of "Harvest Blend" pellets: it's got all these yummy looking bits of food mixed in with pellets. It's HORRIBLE for rabbits, and it was when I didn't know any better. I trashed the entire bag and had to wash that nasty stuff off his behind.

I suggest changing your rabbit's diet immediately to one mainly consisting of Timothy Hay, vegetables, and a small serving of fruits and NORMAL pellets. Don't use "fancy" pellets. Some people here get a high quality timothy hay pellet. My rabbit's molars, I know, had a slight edge because he needed more than half his meal to consist of Timothy hay, which helps keep his molars trim. And if a rabbit needs this much hay, try to use high quality hay, since it makes up the majority of a rabbit's diet. Think about this, too, when choosing a food for your rabbit.

"Does your rabbit get starchy treats such as oatmeal, crackers, bread or sweets? Some rabbits with very sensitive intestines can suffer from runny cecotropes even from being fed commercial pellets. Fruit, as healthy as it is for humans, can be too much of a good thing for rabbits. The high level of sugar and starch in table fruit makes them too rich for a bunny except as a very small, occasional treat. A diet too rich in digestible starch is one of the most common causes of runny cecotropes in companion rabbits."
http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/poop.html

# ¿ Mar 5, 2008 17:33

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

alucinor posted:

My primary concern with rabbits living outside is that the owner is usually not able to adequately monitor behavioral changes, food intake, and waste output. Monitoring is critical to preventing and spotting illness..

...The rabbit is alone most of her time; a highly unnatural state for a creature which evolved to live in huge social groups. This is compounded if she lives alone without a rabbit friend. It baffles me that people will argue that living outside is more "natural" and yet in the same breath state that they are perfectly happy living alone...

...various anecdotes...

This.

You said it better than I could.

On the subject of housing rabbits outdoors, I've never allowed a rabbit outside unsupervised. Things happen that you won't expect. But it's still a good idea to let them roam around every now and then, in an enclosed outdoors area. In fact, I'm in the process of adopting a rabbit from a private owner and just got off the phone with her. While her family is very experienced with handling animals (they practically have a farm), her first rabbit died at 6 years old. The rabbit lived mainly outside. There seems to be a pattern here...

# ¿ Apr 21, 2008 19:56

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

GoodApollo posted:

Lately I've been a little worried our buns aren't eating enough hay. I'm kind of paranoid that they're just sitting on what we put in the box and flattening it out (maybe this is silly I don't know, but it always still seems like there's still a lot in there when I put more in, just flattened out). I started trying to think of good ways to feed them hay in the box without putting it in the box so I can gauge what they're doing a little better.

You could borrow my female for a couple of weeks. When they bonded, she convinced my male that hay isn't so bad. So now he eats mostly hay instead of being a spoiled prick.

# ¿ Sep 12, 2008 07:10

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

Does anyone know how to professionally trim a Lionhead? She's got MM genes. Massive Mane. It's like a bedskirt around her lower body, all over her butt, back legs, chest, face, and ears. And she drags shredded paper and hay every time she leaves her litter box.

It starts to lock and dread, even though I brush her every other day. Although I'd like to make her look show ready, it's not just for looks: I don't want the fur to block her digestive track.

# ¿ Sep 12, 2008 07:15

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

okiecompy posted:

I sewed this little dress for her for easter!

Oh, good lord.

Every time I see that rabbit I want to picture mine in an outfit. I'll dress her up as Indiana Jones for Halloween. Because she's adventurous.

# ¿ Apr 9, 2010 20:27

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

I caught sight of a couple of fleas yesterday night frolicking on my rabbit's back. (I must have tracked them in when visiting a friend's house.) It's going to be AT LEAST a couple of weeks until I can make it for a trip to the vet's for some Revolution.

In the meantime, no pet stores in my town seem to have rabbit-safe flea medication! I've called and visited stores. No one sells kitten Advantage (imadacloprid).

I found a medication using Methoprene (3.6%) and Etofenprox(40%) in 0.034 fl. oz. applicators (other 56.4% are listed as "Other Ingredients"). I researched these active ingredients, and all data on Etofenprox seems to point to it being safe to administer to rabbits. Methoprene, on the other hand, is only safe at maximum 100mg/kg. I came up with these articles:

METHOPRENE
http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/biopesticides/ingredients/factsheets/factsheet_105401.pdf

ETOFENPROX
http://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2008/12/12/E8-29346/etofenprox-pesticide-tolerance

The medication goes by the name "Bio Spot: Spot On". Would this be safe to administer to rabbits?
http://www.biospot.com/cats.php

This is NOT the Zodiac brand. I will not apply this medicine if it poses a threat. I will not apply this medicine if no experienced people can answer the question.

THIS WOULD BE A TEMPORARY FIX until I can visit the vet for a prescription or order Advantage for kittens online. In the meantime...the flea infestation is not severe, and I have two rabbits. I am thoroughly cleaning their living area with rabbit-safe cleaning agents (as well as my living areas).

# ¿ Mar 17, 2011 03:00

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# ¿ May 7, 2024 01:40

You Are: Dec 1, 2006; We Todd Ed.

alucinor posted:

No. If that's your only option, would strongly recommend just not using ANYTHING until you can get Revolution or Advantage from your vet.

..............

Do you have the type of relationship with your vet that you could just call and maybe they would just mail you a tube of Revolution or Advantage?

I never thought of calling the vet like that. I'll call them and explain my situation. I'm sure they can work something out...

Returned biospot to the store.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2011 16:29

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Pet Island > House Bunny Fanatics: I can't deal with this one floppy ear