MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Savington posted:

You will LOVE the Toyo T1R.

Here's my T1Rs after 14k, mostly highway, miles. Autocrossed once and did 4 hot laps around a 1.3 mile course. Size was 195/45/14. They had good grip and good response, but the ride was poo poo, the speedo was off, and they only lasted from March to August.

I've got wal-mart poo poo tires on it now for the winter, but next Spring I'm gonna try the Toyo Proxes 4.

# ¿ Oct 17, 2007 20:47

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# ¿ May 5, 2024 18:17

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

mobn posted:

Mine's still dead neutral. The FM sways are adjustable, so you just have to make the back a bit stiffer than the front. I could make it oversteer if I wanted to (but gently caress, snow's coming, so no way).

Disconnect them to drive in snow, you only have to disconnect one side.

# ¿ Nov 7, 2007 20:02

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Phone posted:

My boots are torn and are starting to put out grease... how long can I put this off? I'm getting my car aligned right now and I getting the boots replaced is 200 bucks, but then I'll need another alignment.

I think I may have to ask my parents for help on this one...

Replace them yourself. All you need is an impact or torque wrench, 32mm (I think) socket, hammer and small punch, 14mm and 17mm wrenches.

I assume you're talking about the boots on the rear axle CVs, you only need to disconnect the upper arm from the knuckle to get the axle out, and it won't affect your alignment.

# ¿ Nov 8, 2007 22:10

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Savington posted:

blah blah blah antilag blah blah blah

Wait, you're telling me I can have anti-lag on my Miata?!

# ¿ Nov 9, 2007 08:02

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

brosef deluxe posted:

I zipped up my rear window yesterday accompanied by a nice tearing sound.

gently caress.

The plastic window section of the top separated from the rest of the top with the zipper closed. There's about an eight inch tear I can actually stick my hand through to the outside of the car. I'm trying to avoid removing the soft top to get it repaired, as later on I'd like to just unbolt and throw the entire drat thing away in favor of a hardtop. Unfortunately, that's a financial waiting game.

So tell me, is there a way recommended way to sew/shoe-goo the top so that it doesn't shred over the winter, or am I pretty much doomed to paying for a new softtop?

I used my mom's sewing machine to fix my window when this happened on my '92. Didn't even take the roof off, just plopped the sewing machine on the rear deck and sewed it back together. Looks like poo poo, but kept the water out.

Also, let this be a lesson to all Miata owners. It's getting cold, cold weather causes things to contract. Loosen the soft top clamps, there's a little plastic thing that holds a bolt from spinning, you pop it off and then you can adjust the bolt, super easy.

Also, when you go to zip up the window: undo the clamps, zip up the window, then redo the clamps.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2007 18:04

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Break. posted:

He won't really need to do any motor work until around the 250 whp mark, unless thats what he meant by 260hp.

Your tranny and diff might not like it though.

Hagetaka posted:

Sick ladiez eyez mod!

Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Nov 9, 2007

# ¿ Nov 9, 2007 23:02

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

It's like a little Jag XK:

I'd kill for this:

Here we go, it's a Miata 250 GTO

# ¿ Nov 13, 2007 08:41

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

mobn posted:

I cannot say enough good things about the Toyo Proxes T1-Rs. I have a set on my 1994 C-Package (although I'm running 15" Enkei RPF-1s because they're lighter than the stock alloys) and they are awesome, even in hardcore wet conditions. I drove way more aggressively than I should have during the heavier rains this summer and I couldn't even make the tires chirp, much less lose grip.

These are good tires, but they don't last very long. I had some 195/45/14 T1-Rs, they didn't even last the whole summer! I think I got 10k miles out of them.

# ¿ Jan 28, 2008 00:19

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

mobn posted:

I had mine on all summer and I delivered pizza in the Miata and they still definitely have a couple more seasons left in them. You either tracked your Miata, drive like a total rear end, or your car is putting down more power than a normal Miata.

I did one autocross on them and 4 laps of a track. I do like to corner and I push my Miata further than the average driver I'm sure. I'm still able to get more life out of other high performance tires than the T1-Rs

# ¿ Jan 29, 2008 16:11

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

chem42 posted:

Miata engines are pretty much unblowupable. Big forged rods, oil squirters, iron block, etc. It's a non-interferance motor (which is rare for a high strung DOHC motor) so even a timing belt failure is no biggie.

They are awesome motors. You can pull apart a 150k mile Miata motor, and still see the honing marks on the piston walls. 150k is just break in on these cars.

# ¿ Feb 5, 2008 19:00

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Great news for NA guys! Recently the Spec Miata rules changed to allow NA cars to use the NB bumpstops. The major suspension difference between the NA cars and the '99+ cars is the suspension travel. The travel comes from the damper being mounted about 3/4 of an inch higher than the spring perch. NB bumpstops haven't been used much on NAs because they require a special bushing to function. Without it the bumpstop crushes to the same height as the stock NA part. Miata Specialists has started manufacturing delrin bushings and plans on selling the kit soon. I am going down there early in April to install the kit they just made for me. Hopefully they will have more kits to sell and I will get the price and detailed pictures of my car before and after, along with detailed install instructions.

What does this mean for your street car? 1/4 to 1/2" drop in ride height, and an extra 3/4" of shock travel. No more bottoming out over speed bumps, better handling over bumpy roads and lower center of gravity which means less body roll and better transisioning. Braking is also vastly improved, especially over bumps. It will also provide better ride comfort. The bumpstops can be used with aftermarket dampers and springs as well to increase shock travel.

If you want slightly stiffer than stock springs for your NA and still want to keep some ride comfort, NB Miatas have the solution to that too. NB springs will also work directly with the NA. I will also review the '99+ springs.

Don't hold me to it, but I think the price will be under $150. Maybe even as low as $100 for the NB bumpstops and bushing kit. Flyin' Miata's basic spring kit is $238 for comparison. That lowers your car and is stiffer but gives you less shock travel.

Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Mar 19, 2008

# ¿ Mar 19, 2008 07:07

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

ChiliMac posted:

Except now you might be bottoming expensive parts on them? Depending on where the extra shock travel is (not even considering the lower ride height). All I know is there's a parking lot where the bottom of the car smacked the speed bump at stock ride height at a crawling speed (avoid that lot in the future of course).

[noob here] Do you use the kit with existing NA shocks/springs or with NB shocks/springs on a NA miata? Sounds like you are saying putting the NB springs on NA shocks?

Your car will be lower, so you will have less ground clearance. This mod is for people who want their cars to be lower and to handle better.

You can either have just the kit which will work with all stock NA parts, or you have have the kit plus the NB springs for a slightly stiffer ride.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2008 16:14

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

ChiliMac posted:

Are they going to be offering the springs as well, or would those need to be sourced on eBay or some place else?

Is this similar to the FatCat kit? http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCMstops.htm

If you'd like NB springs with your kit those can be included.

It is very similar to that kit, only we're using modified OEM parts instead of manufacturing our own stops. Those kits look like they offer even more travel and they also have kits for NB cars which is sweet.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2008 20:09

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Hypnolobster posted:

I imagine I would be burning through brakepads, tires and beyond that just general wear on a track, right?

Not as much as you think. The stock pads will work on the track for at least your first few weekends out. You probably also won't notice any extra wear on your tires after your first track day either. Miatas are really light and can make use of the whole tire. A lot of cars will just wear the inside or outside of the tire, but the Miata will wear the whole thing evenly. A set of track tires like Azenis will last you all season long and then partway into next year. The motor will rev as happily to redline every shift as it did when it was brand new and the transmission will hold up fine (as long as you aren't trying to rush the shift to 3rd).

Guinness posted:

I would imagine that you would lose a ton of chassis rigidity if you lopped the whole A-pillars off.

I don't know how integral to the structure of the car they are, though. I imagine not very, but I'm no automotive engineer so don't take my word for it.

The A pillar is just there to provide rollover protection and a windshield frame:

# ¿ Sep 16, 2008 21:40

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Those are both EP cars. Classing is very complicated and both cars can be competetive against eachother in many different classes. Back when the RX7 and Miata were new, the RX7 would be in a higher class because of its more powerful engine and larger stock tires, though thats not to say it would be faster.

# ¿ Sep 17, 2008 03:40

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Schwack posted:

And that is why I beat the gently caress out of my Miata every time I drive it... I think it likes it best that way.

There's another way to drive them?

azzenco posted:

Well, I guess there are two screws that hold the rotor in or something. Been a while since I've actually replaced a rotor but there are a couple of phillips screws in between the studs and one of them backed out, if that made any sense.

Just tighten them up after putting some locktite on em.

For the non-believers, I'm guessing he's talking about the screws similar to these:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m131/vitaminjsa/honda/newpads.jpg

Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Sep 23, 2008

# ¿ Sep 23, 2008 21:09

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Miatas kick rear end in snow.

Took mine up to Taos a few weeks ago. Mine is lowered about 1.5". I had no problems exiting the Taos parking lot with fresh loose snow up to the door sill. With stock ride height you can go anywhere. All-seasons are a joke, get a decent set of snow tires. I found a set of brand new Michilin Arctic Alpins on craigslist for $100. If you are having traction problems, drop your tire pressure to 25psi. Still have problems, drop it to 15psi.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2010 23:38

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Phatty Slayer posted:

1) Jacked up car.
2) Put jack stand under car.
3) Crushed rusty frame in 1" before panicking and jacking and moving stand.

Pretty rusty. Road salt should be illegal.

It could probably be repaired but I have several other cars that are daily drivers to focus on and I cant afford time and money to fix it.

Also when I had it shipped here the dumbasses dropped it on the truck= added screwedness.

That doesn't sound like rust. The frame rails on Miatas are notoriously soft. I have never seen a Miata without the rails crushed at least a little bit. Be sure you are using the correct jacking points before writing off the chassis.

# ¿ Mar 21, 2010 05:49

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Just a reminder to be careful where you park. Too many people out there with cars too big and brains too small.

$3100 in damage according to my insurance company, if I had a 1.6 it would be totaled. Of loving course they didn't leave a note.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2010 15:20

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Tactical Bonnet posted:

You might go and see if there were video cameras in that parking lot, maybe get the license plate of the guy that hit you.

No cameras and I've been scouring the lot and adjacent lots since Friday night when it happened. Probaby an SUV with barely a scratch.

Ziploc, you lucked out man! That's just a fender, six bolts or so! No cutting or welding involved!

Good news is I've got connections and I can probably get it fixed for less than $2k.

I also decided to spend a little money on my baby to cheer her up and order one of these today:
http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?cPath=5_19&products_id=63

Been eying it for over a year.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2010 15:50

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

I got me car fixed!

Vitamin J posted:

Not bad for $1700 bux eh? I prepped it by removing everything except the door handles from the exterior. Got a respray of the whole car for that price! He was even kind enough to pop out a dent on my front fender from a shopping cart too. There's some orange peel on the passenger door and a few other spots, but its minor. I'm pleased because my original paint was starting to age pretty badly.

The shop who did it was called Straightline Auto down in Albuquerque, NM. Though you probably won't be able to find him anymore cuz he almost got arrested while painting my car! Apparently painting without a license and the correct equipment is highly illegal!

I took her out to Sandia for a victory track day, though I came a little too close to the pit wall:

I ran a 1:37 there for anyone who's been. The SMs that day were running 1:34s so my time's not too shabby for a full weight '96 Miata on old worn Azenis. By the way if anyone is looking for good but cheap suspension: I bought the OEM shocks, springs, and rear sway off a 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata with 15k for $400 and my car handles so well! The shocks are Bilstiens. No understeer whatsoever along with excellent grip. The stiffer rear sway with stock front sway makes the car just hilarious fun. It's pretty comfy on the street too. Remember, OEM is always the best quality vs. price. Though you'll have to cut 1 coil off the front and 1.5 coils off the rear springs to get a decent ride height.

Also, Attention Megasquirt guys! I've been daily driving a MS for about 6 months now. I've got my tune pretty drat good, but my spark map leaves a little to be desired and I'm having trouble finding one for a motor like mine.

I'm running a '96 1.8 block with '02 pistons along with full head porting and 1mm oversize valves, header, intake, yada yada.

Anyone have a good spark map for a 10:1 Miata motor? I was hearin some knock earlier today with about 115*F intake temps. Also I have it pulling 1 deg for every 10*F over 90*F, is that a good setting?

I've been averaging 30mpg totally city driving and I hit 38mpg the other day doing about 60% highway driving, I love it!

Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Jul 2, 2010

# ¿ Jul 2, 2010 22:48

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Thanks for the link, I've been there before its just that most of those are for lower compression motors.

Baby Hitler posted:

How hard of a knock were you hearing? Hard load slight pinging isn't too horrible on those, but back a bit more off the map, the timing temp-retard is for turbo cars and isn't really strong enough to act as a ghetto knock predictor.

Not too bad, but definitely didn't sound happy. I was around 5500rpm in 2nd accelerating up a hill.

I like the idea of the temp-retard because during the day I might have 120 degree intake temps but then at night it'll be 70 degrees. I plan on tuning it on the dyno, but there's more important things to spend the money on right now.

Ziploc posted:

Did Vitamin J just recommend cutting springs?

Yeah, sure my dampers will wear out faster, but I've got 30k miles on them and it feels just as good as when I first put em on. Cheapest and easiest way to get an NA at the right ride height with NB suspension.

# ¿ Jul 3, 2010 01:31

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

In my mind I'm thinking that if the temp goes up x then I'm gonna need to decrease the timing by y, or is it not linear like that?

# ¿ Jul 3, 2010 01:46

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Performance Radiator makes an all-aluminum radiator that is based on the OEM design. I have one in my SM and it is just brilliant. Koyo makes a couple different ones but they hold more water and therefore weigh more without much benefit in cooling.

I'd say stick with the OEM rad unless you're running a turbo, no sense in paying more for extra capacity you won't use. Lots of SM racecars use the OEM radiator in 100 degree weather up here at high altitude with no problems.

# ¿ Aug 11, 2010 21:28

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

The '97 ECU should run the '01 motor, provided you swap over the required sensors etc. It will most likely be running very lean in open loop (full throttle) because the '01 motor flows much better. I wouldn't track it or drive aggresively, but it should be fine temporarily as transport.

You'll have to do some research on which fuel injectors you want to use. The '99+ are a better design with much better atomization, but require 60psi fuel pressure. The '01+ flow slightly more than the '99-'00 at 60psi. I think the '94-'97s use 45psi, and I know from personal experience that dropping in '99 injectors into a '96 motor without adjusting the fuel pressure make the engine run extremely lean, dangerously lean.

# ¿ Sep 9, 2010 17:58

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

aventari posted:

I want an LSD and this came up on craigslist
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/pts/2010038348.html

is this a good diff for my 99? Is that the going rate?

The '99 has a 4.30:1 rear end while the '95 is a 4.10:1. Not sure what you need to make the speedo work but the '95 diff is noticeably longer. The 4.10 is better for cars with lots of power but if you're staying stock you might be happier with a 4.30.

# ¿ Oct 25, 2010 04:52

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Can the R&P be swapped between the two?

No idea.

Phone posted:

Though, when I get my Miata sorted I'm aiming for the 6-speed with the 4.3 rear-end.

You don't want that! The '99 6-speed comes with a 3.909 rear end and even with the long diff it still has much shorter gearing. In '01 they put the 4.1 rear end in it, if you want to know how useless that combo is, drive a Mazdaspeed Miata. The 6-speed and 4.30 combo would be most suited to rock crawling.

What you want is the 6-speed with a custom 3.6 rear-end and a turbo.

# ¿ Oct 26, 2010 15:39

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

I think we need to make a distinction. I was talking purely about street cars. When I jumped in the topic was about top gear rpm on the highway, Phone posted that he wants a 6-speed with a 4.30 and I pointed out that that would give a much higher rpm in 6th than he thought.

I can't believe you like the 4.10/6-speed combo so much, I'm sure its very snappy and always in the rev range, but what was your highway rpms? What did 2nd top out at? 55mph or less? Could you even spool your turbo before you ran out of rpms in 1st or 2nd?

Also if I remember correctly the last video of yours I watched (forget the track, was a Roval), you were shifting into 6th and coming up on redline towards the end of the straight. Perfect for the track, but I'm sure its limited your top speed by quite a bit.

I've got basically a '99 motor in my '96. Stock 5-speed and 4.10s. My car is slightly faster than my friends '99 6-speed. I think people give gearing too much credit.

# ¿ Oct 26, 2010 21:34

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Thats a wicked video, you must like to shift more than me though cuz if I had a turbo Miata I wouldn't want to hit 3rd to do 60mph, let alone 50. Hell, you're shifting into 3rd at 45mph! Like I said, that's way too short for me.

Also, I'm talking about street cars. Street cars do have freakishly long straightaways and sometimes you just have to cruise around at 70mph. For a track car you're right, but people in this thread weren't posting about that, they were posting about cruising at 4000rpm on the highway.

e: This is freakishly long gearing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUuwDY-ThB4
Notice how I can do drat near 40mph in 1st and 65mph in 2nd. I can't find my stopwatch but I would bet your 0-60 isn't much faster than mine. My car shouldn't even be compared to yours, but you're shifting while I'm revvin'.

Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 27, 2010

# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 03:05

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

destructo posted:

Yeah, because you spend so much time in those lower gears (with a 6 speed and that much power) on a track. It's easy to see who's been to the track and who hasn't.

Also you're nowhere close.

First of all I bet Savington has never used 2nd on any track. His 3rd gear tops out at less than 70mph so he probably isn't using that except for the tightest of corners.

Secondly, why are we talking about track cars when this is what we were talking about :

destructo posted:

A taller top gear isn't going to save you much, if any gas mileage. To keep the car moving at X miles per hour overcoming friction/wind resistance takes the same amount of energy regardless of what your gearing is.

kill me now posted:

looking at the two videos you're about 2 seconds slower to 60. Thats a lot.

Should be twice that.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 05:54

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

FatCow posted:

Now we're looking at turbo car 0-60 times?

Apparently so, and thankfully proved my point about how the 6-speed/4.30 combo is too low for the street, shifting into 3rd at 45mph?

quote:

FYI basically everything Phone or I have mentioned in this thread for at least a year has been track/autocross oriented.

Check this out:

Piano posted:

4k is right where it goes into open loop, though, which is a relatively significant drop in mileage.

Phone posted:

IIRC the FD in the 5 speed is .81 and in the 6 speed it's .79. The 4.1 rear end might make a little bit of difference.

Though, when I get my Miata sorted I'm aiming for the 6-speed with the 4.3 rear-end.

Sorry for assuming we're talking about street cars and highway rpms.

Besides I already covered my rear end:

Vitamin J posted:

For a track car you're right, but people in this thread weren't posting about that, they were posting about cruising at 4000rpm on the highway.

Vitamin J fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Oct 27, 2010

# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 19:01

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Savington posted:

Yeah, I don't really care what 1st and 2nd look like. Actually, I wish 1st were shorter so it was easier to crawl the car up onto the trailer. 2nd keeps the revs down in the pits.

Lol

STREET CAR

quote:

The turbo car will spin the rear tires from a 40mph roll in 3rd gear, so 1st and 2nd are absolutely useless to me.

Too bad you're not running that set up anymore cuz I think you'd have a faster 0-60 if you shifted straight from 1st to 3rd.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 19:05

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Savington posted:

How long do you think it takes me to shift from 2nd to 3rd gear?

Doesn't matter how long it takes because revving in-gear takes infinitely less time away from accelerating.

Your car is a track car though so you don't care about that. You just like 4th, 5th, and 6th on the track and I get that.

What was your top gear highway rpm at 70mph with the 6-speed/4.30 combo? Let me take a wild guess and say it's 4000rpm to 4500rpm which is.....higher than stock.

Phone posted:

I would serious post, but I really don't feel like doing math right now.

My car does 0-60 in what, 8 to 9 seconds? 200hp, lightweight body, with a well-prepped chassis should do 0-60 in 4 to 5 seconds.

quote:

e: real post. Hey Vitamin J, it's OK. Track cars and street cars can co-exist.

Yep, but things that work on the track (like a super close ratio gearbox) don't work on the street.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 19:38

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Wait no I mean you guys are all totally right and sorry for jumping in when I did and should have let IOwnCalculus be surprised when he took his car out the first time after his diff install. Also, sorry Phone for assuming you wanted to drive at less than 4500rpm on the highway.

I'm gonna go put a bullet through my brain now.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 19:42

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

I think you should keep driving above your abilities and spin your car on public roads...in the dry.

If I am reading your avatar correctly.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 20:23

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

I'm glad you're taking instruction, Phone.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 20:33

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Sorry, meant aventari.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2010 21:10

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

televiper posted:

so just spend some of that $2-3k on tires

Don't matter, S2000s are in a whole different league. I've seen a totally bone stock S2000 lap one of the tightest, most technical tracks around faster than the fastest Spec Miata. This is a track where they can barely get out of 3rd gear.

e: the BBS' might be soft, but they're so soft a couple high speed runs on the highway and they're straight again!

# ¿ Nov 4, 2010 22:51

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

Phone posted:

Except when it's a torsen and one of your wheels is on ice.

This is a myth. I've tested this by placing my passenger wheel on slick as snot sheet ice and the other on dry asphalt while my car was facing up a pretty good hill. I tried accelerating away at different rates and even launching with lots of throttle the diff locked up and I accelerated away like I'd been on dry pavement the whole time. Torsens need traction to lock, but they don't need much.

Miata season never ends.

# ¿ Nov 17, 2010 16:58

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# ¿ May 5, 2024 18:17

Vitamin J: Aug 16, 2006; God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

A tire on ice isn't zero friction. A tire in the air is zero friction. I didn't say "zero friction" anyway, I said "they need traction, but they don't need much."

Don't know why you couldn't get out of your driveway, but I had no problems in the first couple snows of this year on my bald as poo poo Falkens.

# ¿ Nov 17, 2010 17:22

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

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