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Return Of JimmyJars posted:I just go in through the top. Put your arm down by the firewall and reach under the intake manifold. Its a lot easier to get to the filter on my Miata than it was on some of my other cars (hello Audi) but no one has mentioned moving the oil filter... There are kits available that contain everything you need to move the oil filter to the firewall to make it easier to get to. Granted there are some setups where that doesn't work, but for many of them it should work just fine here's one kit: http://www.gomiata.com/cooilfirekit.html Well, just a thought. I haven't done that yet, but I've been looking at it for a while. Plus it lets you move the oil filter to a vertical position so you don't dump it's contents onto the cross member when you remove it.
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Oct 23, 2007 17:53
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leica posted:Yeah, that sounds ridiculous, I don't know where they get their numbers. The only major maintenance on NB's (and NA's) is the timing belt which is about a $600 job at a dealer. Other than that, oil changes and tires, maybe a clutch at the most and that's an easy job if you can work on a car. I'm thinking a used NC would be your best bet. Unless they are counting in the aftermarket stuff that so many Miata owners buy (shocks, brakes, turbochargers, superchargers, etc, etc)... :-) I have a cheap old NA and have easily spent 1500 bucks in the last year on maintenance, but that was some major stuff (TB/WP, seals, gaskets, etc) brakes, and so on, so not like it was stuff I'll have to do every year. In fact, the car will probably fall apart before I have to do another timing belt on it or exhaust. But I wonder if they don't calculate that based on the manufacturer's recommended service and intervals, based at what you will pay for parts and labor at the dealership, which is always far more than you will pay at a good local mechanic.
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Oct 30, 2007 17:42
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leica posted:Oooo... thanks for the ITB porn... I would totally do this, before I would even consider something like a supercharger or turbo setup. I agree with you, it's not so much "monstah hp gainz" or "teh n0s" as it is incredible responsiveness, and an evil sounding intake ;-) When I finally settle down and buy a newer, nicer Miata, I plan on doing ITBs to it... I may not be able to afford to do anything else to it afterwards...but one day I WILL have my ITB setup! 
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Feb 14, 2008 21:08
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Out of curiosity, what is the expected lifetime of the Pre-Torsen viscous LSDs that came on the NA miatas? I just picked up a 91 BRG with 46K original miles and I was wondering if the LSD was any good, or should I go ahead with my plans to do a Torsen swap in the future...
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May 3, 2008 18:07
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Year: 1991 Classic Red Automatic Mileage: 192K Last: 28mpg (I average between 27-30) Best: 31mpg (long highway trip w/ cruise at ~ 70mph) Worst: 22mpg (Deal's Gap last year in 2nd only for most of the tank) Year: 1991 SE British Racing Green w/ 5-spd Mileage: 47K Last: 31.8mpg (average for my usual driving (85-90 miles / day commute)) Best: 34.4mpg (long highway trip w/ cruise at 75) Worst: 30.1mpg (lots of shifting at 6500 or so, rocket starts, etc) Both cars are pretty much bone stock. No m0dz, no boostu, nada. The only real mod to them would be NGK wires, NGK iridium plugs and K&N drop-in filters. The BRG has a Borla single tip cat-back, and the Red has stock exhaust. BRG has Bridgestone tires on factory alloys at OE size, the Red has 195/60-R14 Yokohama Avids on factory alloys. Maybe I'm just lucky?? I dont see how people are getting mileage in the very low 20s without having turbo or SC or some sort of modifications... other than just a worn engine... I dunno... I drive top down unless it's actively raining, never use A/C, and usually stay within 10mph of the posted speed. Typically, I shift at 4k RPM...
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Jun 11, 2008 17:41
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Guinness posted:I don't have comprehensive/glass coverage on my car. Then get it. It's dirt cheap. Comprehensive is not the same as collision, which can be expensive as gently caress. I keep comprehensive on all my vehicles because it covers glass breakage, theft, vandalism, fire... pretty much everything not covered by collision, including hitting animals like deer, dogs, etc. it does not cover hitting stationary objects or other vehicles and such, but otherwise, it's well worth the extra bit of money. In my own personal case, the difference between liability only and liability plus comprehensive is maybe 20 bucks a month total, and that's with me insuring 5 cars. I have collision on three of them, also. Miata's are very cheap to insure compared to other vehicles too. So do yourself a favor and get at least comprehensive and glass (if that's not covered by your comp policy). It's not that much more out of pocket and you will certainly not regret it...
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Jul 10, 2008 16:34
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Luxmore posted:I've got a bit of a roof leak issue in my 97 NA. When it's rained for a bit, I get water coming out right here: Just a suggestion, have you tried tightening the top latches? Over time they loosen and water starts seeping in around the weather stripping where the top meets the windshield frame. Both of my 91s did this when I first got them. On the Red one, I had to replace one of the latches with one that was not worn out. On the BRG, I just tightened them a little bit to snug the top down better and the leaking stopped. Sit in the car, undo the latch on that side and look at it. You should see what looks like a very long hex nut that has a threaded post going into it. You can turn that with a wrench (or in some cases with just fingers or pliers) to loosen or tighten the top. It's a place to start at least. The next thing would probably be to replace the weather stripping on the top and along the windshield frame if that does not work.
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Aug 4, 2008 19:34
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Guinness posted:The lack of sideview mirror, and also the rear wheel almost looks like it is sitting too far forward in the wheel well. The white dashboard??? Or maybe it's just that the image is compressed a bit. It looks a lot like when you try to squeeze an 1024px wide image into a space thats only 800px wide. It makes the car look a bit squished together... bladernr fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Aug 8, 2008 |
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Aug 8, 2008 22:03
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gently caress... how the heck did I double post?
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Aug 8, 2008 22:06
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GoblinBomb posted:So today I learned the downside of having a convertible. Some dudes thought it would be hilarious to throw an open soda can at me and speed off. That's what cell phones and 911 are for. It may seem a bit silly, but tossing ANYTHING into or at a moving vehicle is a fairly serious crime. I don't think it hits Felony territory, but it's usually a bit more than a $20 fine. Most places consider it "launching a missile into an occupied vehicle, and they usually use that to cover everything from sodas and cigarette butts to bricks, rocks and so on.
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Aug 21, 2008 21:37
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RubySprinkles posted:Didn't mean to imply anything other than I knew the person I was dealing with... Another couple things to keep an eye on: Hoses, when was the last Timing Belt / Water pump change done, and does the clutch slave cylinder leak yet? The hoses, if they've not been changed, like any car will get old, brittle and crack. If the timing belt/water pump has not been done recently (you didn't mention the mileage on the car) it may be due. You should go ahead and do everything at once to save yourself the trouble. Everything = timing belt, tension pulleys, water pump, hoses, accessory belts, front main seal, cam seals, CAS O-Ring, cam cover gasket, coolant flush and fill. Sounds like a lot, but doing all that doesn't really add that much time to the timing belt job on it's own. Also, as I mentioned, clutch slave cylinder. They tend to start leaking. Easy fix, but just keep an eye on it...
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Sep 8, 2008 17:41
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well, no one else has said anything yet...XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:1) $100 - buy decent quality aftermarket replacement http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16410&cat=320&page=1 quote:2) $200 - use OE parts http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16869&cat=320&page=1 quote:3) either 1 or 2 plus $340 for a 8lb Fidanza aluminum flywheel http://www.949racing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=74&HS=1 quote:4) $350 - upgraded clutch made for 1.6L miatas (Spec stage 2) plus $340 for 7lb Fidanza aluminum flywheel. This setup would weigh about 17 lb vs the stock 30 lb setup. http://www.949racing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=75 Also, since you're already in for this, just get the 100.00 finish line clutch, but get it in 1.8L, and get the 1.8L lightweight flywheel... more clutch for your buck, and that's a direct drop in (provided you also use 1.8L pressure plate, pilot and throwout bearings, which come in the kit). quote:Do you think this is the throw out bearing? If not, what else could it be? If it is and I should change out the parts, which of the above options do you like best? Another thing, while you're in there doing the clutch, have them replace the rear main seal... you can get the seal for about 15 bucks from autozone or advance, 20-30 from the dealer, and since they're already going to have the back of the engine free, it's small change to swap the seals out. AND go ahead and flush and fill the tranny with MTL... I've finally finished mine for a while... MTL in the tranny and turret, 75w-90 Redline in the diff, new clutch, shaved the flywheel. I am much happier now that she's not making any obnoxious grating noises...
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Sep 15, 2008 22:11
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duep posted:Good news first: I managed to replace my flyweel bearing and the noise is gone. The correct way: Get a screw extractor... you DO have to drill a pilot hole into the broken bolt shaft, but then you just screw this thing into it, and as you do so you back the broken shaft out. The cheap way, that may work, or may not if it's a high grade bolt: take a cheap phillips screwdriver and hammer it into the end of the broken shaft, then just unscrew. I've used both methods before. The cheap screwdriver method works well, as long as the bolt isnt frozen in place. I'm assuming here that you broke it by torquing it down too tight, so it should just come right out. If it's frozen, you'll get better results by spraying it a few times with WD-40, or some other penetrating oil, letting that soak for a bit between applications, then pulling it with an extractor...
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Sep 19, 2008 16:54
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Phone posted:The automatic transmissions on NA/NB Miatas are terrible. It literally saps all of the fun out of the car. Yeah... but no hard top...  My BRG has everything his has, and I couldn't get close to 9K for it... 6 maybe...58,800 miles... all work done... Maybe thats  dollars??
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Oct 6, 2008 20:49
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mobn posted:Unless you're doing some serious power modding or you were having heat problems, there's no reason not to go with the OEM unless another better one is cheaper. What Phone said... and I'll add that if the OP goes with OEM, at the very least get the one built for the auto. Personally, I'd just invest in a good all aluminum radiator for the longevity and cooling... But as I said, if the OP must go with OEM, buy one built for the automatic Miatas... They are slightly bigger and help cool a little better, and should be a drop in replacement for the radiator in the non-auto Miatas. Of course, that's assuming that the OP doesn't have an auto already, and assuming the OP has an NA or NB...
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Oct 6, 2008 20:52
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Negromancer posted:Well after feeling around under where miata.net says the drain holes should be, I cant for the life of me find any. Has anyone had to clear these before and could give me better instructions then "in front and behind the jack points"? Yikes... you don't have to drill them... just find them. Get a smallish flat head screwdriver, and a smallish (maybe #2) phillips. Normally, they are probably pinched together. You'll find them along the seams near the front and rear jack points (the pics make it a lot easier to recognize them. Use the flat head to get them started, then use the phillips if you need to. In my case, I only needed the flathead to open them up... you just stick it in, pry the hole open, slide it in a little further, pry it open some more, and keep going until the trapped water rushes out all over your hand. If you do drill them, be sure you get a brush and some paint to cover the bare metal... water will collect in there and you'll find a nasty rust problem eventually... It took me all of 10 minutes to widen all four on each of the two NAs that I own.
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Oct 9, 2008 18:54
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Negromancer posted:drat how did I miss those. So the drain holes are actually in the lowest point there where the 2 pieces of metal meet? Are they in the 2 spots where the sheet metal dips up a bit there? I thought it was just near by those. The drain holes should be just to the side of those. The dips mark the jack points.
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Oct 10, 2008 15:34
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Phone posted:If you like oil pressure, I suggest you do it. This is just damned funny... I don't know why, but this statement just made me laugh out loud, which isn't a good thing when you're sitting in a class...
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Oct 16, 2008 16:50
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Phone posted:Question of my own; at start up, there is a bunch of noise when clutching in and releasing to go into reverse and/or 1st? Define "bunch of noise". Does it happen throughout the clutch in and out, or only at a certain point? At a guess, without knowing more, Id say check the clutch slave (easiest) and then suspect a bad throwout bearing (yay, new clutch)
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Oct 17, 2008 15:32
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Guinness posted:For what it's worth, my Miata is my only car. I can commute happily in it, but I'm a car nut and love the noisy cockpit, high strung engine, stiff suspenion, and responsive-to-the-point-of-twitchy handling. I also know people who would HATE daily driving a Miata (most non-car people). It's all about what you want in a car. I have two NAs and they are my only cars too... well, I also have an F-150 4x4, but I only drive it two and from the dump on trash days (and on the occasion I need lumber or dirt, gravel, etc). My wife gets on my case because "there is no reason you should have to rev that car more than 3000 rpm! you're just going to burn the motor up!" I have yet to convince her that the 1.6 isn't even starting to do what it's supposed to do until at least 4000 rpm. But I'll add that I do daily drive both my NAs, and I do NOT have hard tops for either of them. The Red 91 with factory exhaust is somewhat noisy, but not bad. the 91 BRG with the Borla exhaust is several times louder, but you can STILL hold a converstation without yelling in the car AND hear the stereo too. One thing I have noticed though, is that the condition of the top matters. The red one has a worn out top and a torn rear window, and there is a definite difference in noise levels compared to the BRG with a practically new top, even if you exclude the difference in exhausts. And also, get the manual. The auto sucks, at least on the older models. I have heard that the NC models (especially the 6spd auto/paddle shift) is actually pretty good, but I've not had the chance to drive one myself.
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Oct 20, 2008 23:01
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destructo posted:To set the record straight. BRG was only available in 1991. The only other "greens" are Marina Green Mica (1997 only) and Emerald Green Mica (99-05). And to set it even straighter... there IS a 2001 BRG. It was a Special Edition for the 10th anniversary of the 91 BRG. I've got a picture of one:  And here's an article on edmunds.com with more pics.
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Nov 20, 2008 19:02
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destructo posted:Ahh, forgot about that one. Close enough Here's another one... less flashy, all original:  Mine... heh... I like those wheels on the one you posted though... I wish mine came with the hard top
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Nov 20, 2008 19:55
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BusinessWallet posted:having a problem today with my 99 i haven't had before Auto, or 5speed? As a first guess, I'd say you've got a dirty fuel filter, bad or dirty AFM "MAYBE", or dirty air filter.
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Jan 9, 2009 22:51
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EvilCrayon posted:
I was going to say it looks like it's been raced a bit, just going by the damage and replacement hood/trunk lids. However, that's not a roll bar, as far as I can tell. Looks like a style bar which does NOTHING for protection in a rollover. But then again, that still doesn't mean it hasn't been raced. 1700 isn't bad for an NA, but what year is it? Also, when was the important work done (timing belt, water pump, hoses, crank gasket, cam gaskets, CAS, cam cover gasket, etc)?? But still... 1700 isn't bad, even for a beater. I paid 1800 for one in a lot worse shape than that one, and an automatic to boot, so I'd say if you're sure about it, then go for it. A little work would probably put that car back in the 3000-4000 dollar range (paint, fix that fender, and get the hood/trunk fitting right). Of course, that's also presuming that the car IS in good mechanical shape and that all that bad fitting doesn't mean it's got a bent frame or anything like that. Sigh... who am I kidding. I'd still jump on it for 1700 either way... If your description is accurate (not saying you're a liar or an idiot, but assuming the seller is honest), it's a deal for 1700. So, find out about the following before you buy: Bent frame Top condition condition of the brakes date of important service (timing belt, water pump and so on) leaks and rust check the clutch master and slave cylinders for leaks check the back of the engine for oil leaks But again, for 1700, I'd jump all over that.
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Jan 13, 2009 16:41
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destructo posted:The hood is fine, it's just got some risers on it, two minute fix. I looked at the pinch in the fender and took that to mean the hinge on that side was popped up a bit... maybe he slid into a light pole or something... oh well. Makes me wonder if I could get 1700 or so for my 91 with 195K on it, auto, worn out top and horrible paint  I'm sure there's SOMEONE out there who'd pay me for it... heh.When I bought the BRG I had intended to drive the BRG and red 91 alternating weeks to keep mileage down on the BRG (it's got 65K on it now) but I find that I much prefer the 5spd in the BRG to the slushy in the Red 91... so I still only drive the BRG on most days... I am so 
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Jan 13, 2009 18:15
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Hypnolobster posted:Why the hell can't I find deals like this in Ohio? I've been routinely checking craigslist for preferably a 94-96 (in white, particularly) and have been utterly unable to find one under 3 grand. They pop up from time to time (they do in the Raleigh, NC area at least) but you have to be FAST... usually ones like that, which seem to be in pretty fair shape, and rather low miles for the average NA, sell for twice that round here, so for 1880, it'd be gone almost as soon as the ad goes up. My 91 BRG was just like that... I called 5 hours after the ad was posted to arrange to have a look / test drive, and it was already sold... lucky me though, the guy who wanted it decided he couldn't get a loan to pay for it, so I was next in line for the car. That one was a 91 BRG with 47K on it at the time, for about 4400 bucks. The only Miatas I see here in the 1500-2000 range are usually 180K-220K+ beaters that have been flogged to death. BUT on occasion you will find someone who doesn't understand the value of the Miata, and they'll list and sell them at "book value" which is usually a 2 - 3 thousand less than what most people will pay for an NA.
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Jan 30, 2009 19:36
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Phone posted:You forgot that guy in Chapel Hill who's been trying to sell that crappy turbo 89-90 for 1.5+ years plus. You're right... I did. And thanks to you, I have to forget it all over again  Heh... that one's almost been a saga in and of itself... I've seen him come down from something like $10K to this month's $4,500. For those wondering: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/981606585.html  Click here for the full 1265x1287 image. And http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/990562777.html quote:I have just had about $1500 work done on this car because the water pump went out and caused other problems. There is still something not right with the car because it smokes only when it is started up in the morning and then smokes no more during the day. Or this: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/982058227.html $1750 for a well flogged car that the owner admits is probably not good for more than parts, or to strip and build into a Spec car... Hell, I should be able to get at least 1600 for my other NA if this one sells... This one is near me http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/983947199.html and it's actually in OK shape for a 200K+ mile car... though they are a little over-generous on the paint. It's got the typical clear coat issues, IIRC, and some fading/chalking. Definitely in need of paint, but looks fairly straight. But then there's this for $2500 http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1014045861.html which looks pretty good, and probably a good deal at that (assuming it's in good mechanical shape), even if it needs a new top. Like I said, they do tend to pop up from time to time, you just have to be fast when the good ones actually pop up.
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Jan 30, 2009 23:14
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mars posted:I finally finished reading this whole thread. Nice... I like those later NAs... I have a pair of 91's. You can FI those as well, but I think there are far more options in the go-fast upgrade dept. for the 1.8L motors than the 1.6. quote:I actually found a 95 M edition at a dealer in Carlsbad, called them up arranged price and they sold it as i was driving there to pick it up. Any decently priced Miata will go quickly. Sometimes within hours of being listed or showing up on a dealer lot. The one's that don't sell are usually A: over priced, B: torn up, or a combination of both. quote:I primarily want 94-95 because I want to go turbo, and I'm thinking it's easier than on the obd2 cars? Am I wrong on this? Not sure... As I said, you can turbo/supercharge both 1.6 and 1.8 engines. The difference is in the fact that there are more options in that area for 1.8L than 1.6. Otherwise, the performance difference isn't THAT much, unless you are serious about racing. I haven't owned a 1.8L but from what I've heard from people who have had both, the 1.6 seems a bit better at high RPMs than the 1.8L with the 1.8 being better off the line. But that's all hearsay and nothing I've seen myself. I'd be wary just because they guy said "I wanted to turn it into a race car and then let it sit for a year or more". It may be in great shape, but the other thing you have to contend with is that if the guy just let the car sit for a year, what condition are the seals and such in? I would really be afraid to do much with that car without replacing all the hoses, seals and gaskets prior to any serious driving, just because they tend to shrink and dry out of not used. The milage seemed to be OK there, I have one that's pushing 200K and only now starting to leak oil, and one that's only at 66K and runs like a dream (and is the one I want to put a supercharger on at some point in the future). Mostly, I'd be concerned with timing belt, water pump, all the oil seals, gaskets, hoses, fuel filter, rust in the fuel tank, brake lines, leaking calipers, etc with one that's been left sitting that long. Of course, it may well have at least been minimally cared for, and that changes things a bit, but from what he says in the ad, I'd be wary, and depending on what a visual inspection showed, maybe offer 1800 for it if it looks like it's going to need a lot of work. quote:second one:http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto1026084583.html I'd be wary of the miles and especially wary of all the things I mentioned before. If he can prove the timing belt/waterpump/oil seal work, it leaks NO fluid, has a good top on it (no wear spots, tears or scratched up/foggy rear window if plastic) then maybe it's worth 3000-3500. If he can't verify the maintenance on the car, then 2500 is it. While breaking the TB won't hurt you (non-interference engine) if it's been left that long, you never know what other routine maintenance the owner has neglected. HOWEVER, it sounds at least like it's been cared for far better than the first one you listed. Ultimately, what you pay will depend on you. How much do you want to spend, realistically, and how badly do you want a Miata? Especially in somewhere warm and sunny like SoCal. Here on the East Coast, prices can vary widely, and any reasonably priced NA will disappear faster than you'd believe. The 91 BRG I picked up last year was sold within hours of the post being made. The ONLY reason I ended up with it was that the first guy who offered to buy it backed out. The seller was a pretty cool guy and called me because I had expressed interest, and already owned one NA Miata (he said he preferred to sell it to someone who knew Miatas) and I think I was probably in the first 5 calls he got anyway. As for the Turbo options, call the people at Flyin' Miata (https://www.flyinmiata.com) and they can tell you just about anything you want to know about beefing up a Miata, especially with turbo or SC. You can also check local Miata clubs in case any of their members know of Miata's for sale, check the Miata.net classifieds, Craigslist (a lot of them get sold on CL) and places like that.
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Feb 9, 2009 22:05
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mars posted:Thanks for the thorough answer. I really just wanted a sanity check because I've been getting frustrated trying to find an ideal car, so I'm trying to think if I can just get one that I can get it up to what I want. I'm really not afraid of working on the car, but I just want to know what I'm getting myself into. That's different then. Sorry... maybe I misread but most of the questions I've seen like that, both here and on Miata.net and my local club forum are asked by people who A: know nothing or very little about Miatas (which is fine) and/or B: have no mechanical inclination at all and are running under the assumption that since the car is Japanese, it will run forever with no work being done at all. If you have no problem turning a wrench, then go for either one, really. I'd still consider the second one over the first one, if for not other reason than because the second one at least appears to have been cared for far better than the first one. Still, maybe not 4K worth of better cared for, but still, probably going to be less work intensive. In any case, those cars are both fairly old, so you should, if you want to make it nice and tight again, expect a fair amount of work. If needed, the TB/WP/Pulley/Seals job can be done in a few hours. The first one I did took a whole weekend, the second one took me about 6 hours. Suspension - expect them to be shot, or at least softer than what you're going to want, especially on the one that has 180K on it. BUT, you'd probably be happier, if you don't mind spending the money, buying a good set of shocks and springs anyway. There are plenty of options there. The first car I wouldn't buy other than with maybe the expectation of turning it into a beater/daily driver/occasional auto-x car. No, I dont auto-x, but that's because my beater red 91 is an automatic with nearly 200K on it, and my nice, tight one is a BRG that I'm terrified of tearing up on a track. The point is, if your intention is to just get any old Miata, fix it up for performance, not looks, then the first one may be a better deal. However, if you want it to look nice, and probably last a lot longer, the second one is the way to go, just from those two options, IMHO. The real question is still how much can you or will you pay for one. That alone will determine a LOT about what choices you'll have. quote:That's why I was thinking about the first one anyway. It looks neglected, but I wouldn't mind changing all the wear parts if I can get it for under 2k. I just wanted more feedback on whether his "it's just the o2 sensor or the maf sensor" is bullshit or not. I imagine that car probably has shot suspension too, which I also don't mind if I can subtract it from the price, because I will probably redo the suspension anyway. The one thing you need to think about here, though, is that you can easily spend more than you paid for the car if it's really worn out. Of course, it still could be in pretty good shape, just neglected. You'd really have to check it out to see. As for the Emissions though, no idea what to tell you. Both those things are fairly easy to change out, though a MAF is a lot more expensive than an O2 sensor, so I'd start with the O2 sensor first. But I live on the east coast and don't have to worry about CA Emissions standards, thankfully... from what I hear from people over there, it can be a bitch getting a car to pass once it starts failing... quote:It looks OK in the pictures, but I don't think resprays usually ever look as good as factory paint. But if it's a good paint job, I see no problem with a repaint, as long as the repaint was only covering bad paint, and not covering something else, like a pulled and bondo'd quarter panel or some other damage. quote:I'm probably willing to pay up to around 6k for a really clean example of what I'm looking for, I think anything more than that for an NA is getting a big too much. But if I can't find one in the condition I want I'll probably just go for one that ends up being cheap if I do a lo of work. This for example: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/1028289866.htmlt I'd be all over that. A 92 Black and Tan with BBS wheels? Hell, the wheels alone could get you 800 - 1200 dollars if you didn't want them... Or this: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/1026215539.html Red '97 with only 90K on it... hell, that's just barely broken in.. probably has at least another 150K to go before it'll need major work. Or if you don't mind heading out to Carlsbad: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/1025250452.html 1500 bucks for a 96 with a salvage title (depending on why it was salvaged, this could be a gem or a nightmare.. but for 1500 bucks? You could probably make that all back in parts if it came to it ;-) Good luck!
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Feb 10, 2009 18:18
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Wayside Bazaar posted:5w30 is usually best for average temps below 40 degrees, you want 10w30 otherwise. I'd say it depends a lot on the condition of the motor and seals... whether the engine leaks like a sieve or not. I have 2 NAs (a 91 BRG and a 91 Red). I run 0w-20 M1 synthetic in both. Longer time between oil changes, no HLA noise, even on cold cold mornings. I was running 5w-30 dino before, and I've just had far better results using 0w-20 instead, but that's just my opinion, YMMV and all that stuff.
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Mar 5, 2009 21:23
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ChiliMac posted:Has anyone experience with this: http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=74741 My review of one That's a review I wrote. I bought one on the M.net group buy back before Moss and others started carrying them in stock... it's not just a piece of plastic. It's actually really solid, more solid and a bit heavier than the stock console. It works really well, keeps things in the drink holder out of the way while shifting, and the console has a lot more storage space than stock which works really well too. My only complaint is that the drink holders are only big enough for something the diameter of a 12 ounce can. Nothing wider than that... On the one hand, it kinda sucks sometimes, but on the other hand, my bottle of Voss or Smart water fits just right... and I don't chug a lot of soda while driving now... But IMO, it is a really good addition... I am not unhappy with it at all.
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Mar 9, 2009 19:23
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Slothophile posted:No offense but what the gently caress is up with you guys and cupholders, can you not stand to be without liquid while you drive to work? I think the only time i've needed to drink in my car was when I drove for about 8 hours straight through France, and even then you can just jam a water bottle between the seat and center console. Dunno about you, but I spend about 2.5 hours a day in the car going to and from work. Having a cold drink is nice... especially in a ragtop on a 90+ degree day in North Carolina, where the humidity normally sits around 90%. Cup holders are a bit of a requirement there...
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Mar 9, 2009 23:21
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Slothophile posted:This is a more legitimate use, but again if this is your regular commute can you not just have one of those big sealable drinks containers filled with the beverage of your choice? I do on occasion. I did, find, however, that it get's to be a bit bothersome undoing the cap with one hand while driving. I have a couple of the sports bottle types too, with the stopper you can pull open with your teeth, and I use those too. But I don't always carry those to work, and when I do, I'm not always able to fill them for the trip home, which is usually the hottest part of the day once it warms up around here... Plus, when my wife and I go riding around, she doesn't appreciate it when I hand her a bottle and say "hold this" or just sit it in her lap 
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Mar 10, 2009 20:21
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duep posted:Unfortunately I'm stuck with German suppliers, which want you to bring your car in for the easiest of tasks and try to rip you off no matter what. You mean in Germany they don't use gasket sealer?? any hi-temp gasket sealer will work... rtv being the most popular... And yes, you do need those little dollops of sealer in the corners... otherwise, you're just asking for leaks.
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Apr 6, 2009 18:09
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beatdown posted:Are you sure its the gear box? Mine has a pretty annoying rattle when engine breaking between 2-3k, which I'm pretty sure is actually pieces of the cat just rattling around inside the cat. Are you sure that's not the heat shields?? They tend to break off a bit and rattle at certain RPM... I had one go bad on my 91 BRG that rattled horribly right around 2900 - 3100 RPM... On the plus side, I got good mileage on my commute by just using the rattle as a shift indicator, but after a trip to Deal's Gap and having to listen to it constantly as I shifted and braked around all the twisties just about drove me homicidal. I thought it was the cat originally too, as it sounded a LOT like the magic goo in the cat breaking off and rattling... but after some banging on the pipes, found it to be two small heat shields (just around the end of the exhaust manifold)... took them the rest of the way off and no more rattle. e: it's RPM, not RPMs... sigh...
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Sep 20, 2009 22:30
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You probably need the clutch... and while you're at it, to a transmission fluid change and the rear main seal since the tranny will be off the motor. As far as I know, everything else that can go wrong will either be really noisy or it will make it hard to disengage the clutch, not make it slip.
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Sep 22, 2009 18:52
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The Third Man posted:Yeah, the previous owner probably never cleaned them out, and I bought the car knowing the rust was there. I'd just like to get it dealt with before it gets any worse. Honestly, if the drains were never cleaned (and I'd suggest opening them up a bit by hammering a screwdriver up in the holes to allow better drainage) and the rust is in that area, most likely it's eaten up the inside of the panel too and is working its way through.
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Oct 5, 2009 21:14
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Gembolah posted:tl;dr weird steering noise, not present with clutch in Ummm... you don't have any power steering fluid. That or the pump is shot.
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Oct 12, 2009 19:15
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Gembolah posted:The first thing I did was check the fluid and it was fine so I guess I need a new pump. I'll take a look at how to do that later. Ok... So now the problem could be busted pump or bad PS rack. Granted, there are "some" people who just remove the PS pump and run the rack without... though I'm not a fan of that kind of stuff... if you want non-power steering, get a non-power steering rack. BUT, FWIW, the pump is now the first thing I'd check since you mentioned you were hearing the sounds of Power Steering Death. Generally a failing rack doesn't make noise... The PS pumps are pretty easy to replace, though if you do that, I'd also suggest replacing all the PS hoses too while your're at it. No point putting a new pump on with old hoses that may not stand up to the pressure of the new pump (assuming your pump's been ailing and not producing enough pressure for a while now). Good luck.
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Oct 12, 2009 21:33
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eknomf posted:How many miles are these cars usually good for? It seems I don't see many for sale with over 130k or 140k on them. What are the commons things that go out on these at that milage other than timing belts? Properly cared for, they can go forever. I have two NAs, both 91s (later 1.6L). One has just turned over 81K. The other has just a hair under 200K. Both run strong. The 200K one leaks some oil, but the previous owner was not as meticulous about care as I am, so I expect to get another 50K out of it before I have to scrap the motor. The tranny may last another 25K, we'll see. BUT, that one is also an automatic. It's not THAT uncommon to see one on the road with 200K on it, and I've seen some with 300K and original motors and trannys. I don't know necessarily that there's THAT much difference between a stock 1.8 and a stock 1.6. The biggest difference that I've seen though, is that the 1.8Ls are more common (offered in more years in the US than the 1.6L) and thus there are far more go-fast parts for them. So if your goal is to do things like ITBs or Forced Induction or whatever, your best bet is a 1.8L car. If you don't plan on doing anything big to the motor, I'd say it's YMMV. Try driving one of each and see if you notice an appreciable difference. Common failures? None that I can think of, other than maybe rust if your car has plugged drain holes. Or broken cranks if you have a short-nosed crank that fails (only seen in the early 1.6L cars ('90 - early '91). The timing belt can break like any other piece of gear, but the engine is non-interference, so if the TB snaps you can just put another one in and off you go, no worries about pistons hitting valves or anything like that. Most people change out the water pump at the same time as the timing belt, at roughly 60-100K mile intervals, since you have to pull the timing belt to get to the water pump anyway. At that time, it's good to go ahead and replace the front main seal, cam seals, and some other odds and ends since you have to tear the front of the motor off to do it. And the whole thing can be done in a day. The rear seal will go bad and leak eventually, like any car, but it's 10 minutes work maybe to swap it out, IF you do it at the same time you do a clutch replacement. In reality, the Miata is one of the best engineered cars I've ever owned. Very little ever goes wrong with it as long as you make the smallest effort to do routine maintenance, and VERY easy to work on. Plus there are a million of them out there, so used parts, new parts, and aftermarket parts are plentiful. And they are just plain fun to drive.
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Oct 20, 2009 22:06
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