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Schwack posted:On a 94 NA is it possible to find a car equipped with a LSD without having the A package equipment? R-package or the A/B/C. Base and Autos don't have it. My car's been online in photos more than some porn stars.  
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Oct 11, 2007 10:52
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Ize posted:Yeah they are. They are +40 Nickels. The finish changes depending on the light; I can make them look near-chrome or practically gunmetal. The finish is a high-gloss silver that's hand-sprayed with a VERY fine layer of gloss black to produce the smoky look. I was on the fence when I ordered them between silver (not blingy enough) and black (too blingy), and when I saw that finish I fell in love. 
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Oct 11, 2007 20:00
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Ize posted:Ah, OK. Any idea when they're gonna do another run of the +40's? Also, what tires are those; RS2's? How are they? Never. The +36 he produced alongside it is useable in more applications, so for the second run recently and the third run in January he's only producing a +36. The January run will also feature the first 15x7 6ULs, both +27 offsets, in either 13.1lbs for Spec Miata use or 11.4lbs for other use. Tires are 225/45-15 Hankook RS-2s, and they are fantastic. Great wet traction, great dry traction, stand up to track use beautifully, and I'm slated to get about 12,000 miles out of them, 85% street/15% track. They are so good, the guy who makes and sells the 6ULs has cleaned out the entire national inventory of that tire twice now, on just pre-ordered wheel/tire packages. Water leakage in the passenger footwell is the A/C. Not too hard to get to; just remove the glovebox and it's pretty obvious. A search on Miata.net will get you further.
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Oct 12, 2007 04:44
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Ize posted:Are there fitment issues with the +36? The site seems to say there may be. Sorry for the 21 questions. Not with the type of camber you should be running with 15x8s, usually between 1.5 and 2 degrees. I actually wish I had +36s; it would let me run some more camber in the front (I want to run 2.7/2.4).
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Oct 12, 2007 05:16
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Schwack posted:So as long as the car has power steering and power mirrors it should come with the Torsen? If the car has power steering and a manual (and it isn't an R-package), it has a Torsen. I'd estimate a C-package car to weigh about 80lbs more than a standard car (40lbs A/C, 25lbs P/S, 10lbs CC, 5lbs power mirrors/windows/antenna) My car was about 2300lbs bone-stock with a full tank of gas.
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Oct 12, 2007 10:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:Speaking of which, where the hell is Hoagie and his turbo NA? Another turbo NA goon?
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Oct 13, 2007 01:18
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Captain Stink posted:If it was me, depending on the condition of the car, I'd do suspension first. Shocks wear out over time. I haven't driven a Miata in a long time though, but as I recall the stock suspension is pretty good, but you'd want to be sure it's in good shape. For me, suspension, tires, and brakes make a big difference in feeling. +1. The first upgrades you should make are the shocks, the tires, and the alignment. That will be about a thousand bucks, and you'll have a car that's really enjoyable to drive while you save the big bucks for the differential swap and the turbo setup.
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Oct 13, 2007 04:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:But I don't want a tire that's going to be on cords in 15,000 miles. What's out there that's maybe a step down from the Azenis in outright grip, but a step up in terms of longevity? You will LOVE the Toyo T1R.
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Oct 17, 2007 00:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:What about the Yokohama AVS ES100 that Tire Rack has in 185/60-14? Compared to...well just about anything, they are horrid.
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Oct 18, 2007 00:21
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Break. posted:I have a 2001 NB and I installed a BEGi (Bell Engineering) Turbo kit with a T2860RS. That kit took my little C-Stock MX-5 and made it into a little monster. Keep an eye on your radiator. It's starting to go tan. I recommend either the CSF 1" or the Koyo 37mm radiator.
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Oct 18, 2007 00:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:One set of Falken 615's, coming right up https://www.discounttiredirect.com $204 shipped to your door. Thank me later.
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Oct 18, 2007 09:36
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Looks like 195/60-14 is the smallest size they come in, I'm guessing that fits in the Miata just fine. Probably going to order them from Vulcan unless someone else has them signficantly cheaper.
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meatpimp posted:Last time I put a transmission in, it took me less than 45 minutes. You can pick those transmissions up for under $200. It's an afternoon job and the only "extra" tools you need are a set of socket extensions that will get you about 20" of extension and a wobble. You are a god. Having removed the tranny from my '94 on jackstands, and having removed the motor and tranny together from the '92 I parted out, I think it's easier to remove the entire engine to get to the transmission. It just isn't a pleasant work environment at all.
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Oct 19, 2007 00:55
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512s are considered an all-season at M.net. You also have alignment issues. What are your alignment numbers (camber/caster/toe)? I've heard decent things about the 912, but to be honest if you want a true dual-purpose tire the T1R can't be beat. For something more aggressive, try the Bridgestone RE-01R. I've heard it's a fantastic tire, but you do pay for it.
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Oct 27, 2007 02:03
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If you are staying with stock springs, do Tokico Illuminas. If not, do Koni Sports or revalved Bilsteins. The KYB is a mediocre bargain-bin shock.
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Oct 28, 2007 06:44
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destructo posted:poo poo guys, Bell just put out a kit to rival the cheap Greddy one link. Rival the GReddy? Nono. The Bell kit means the demise of the GReddy. Expect the floor to drop out from under the used GReddy market within a month or so. The best manifold, a brand-new $900 ball-bearing turbo, a good downpipe, oil-water lines, and Bell quality everywhere. I'll never recommend another GReddy kit again.
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Nov 9, 2007 04:39
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destructo posted:I know this is probably somewhere, so I don't quite expect a very detailed response, but you've built your own, solid setup so I trust what you have to say. Ballpark, from the BEGI-S kit at 5-6psi, what would I need to move up to 8-9? Intercooler, 1.8 injectors and some other piggyback/MSPNP? 8-9 will require an intercooler, more fuel, and spark retardation. One of those is pretty easy (the intercooler). eBay core, eBay pipes, shouldn't spend more than $300 or so for everything, including nice silicone bends and t-bolt clamps. The other two, you have some options. You can either stick with the BEGI FPR, go to a set of 1.8 injectors or Supra 305cc injectors, add a high-pressure fuel pump, an O2 clamp, and a Bipes ACU timing controller. You will also need a wideband, either an AEM Uego or an Innovate LC-1. $250 for the wideband, $150 for the injectors, $100 for the fuel pump, $150 for a used Bipes, and $100 for the O2 clamp. You'll have the control to hit 8-9psi, but not much more than that. The other option is, as you mentioned, an MSPNP. $800 for the box, including the 4-bar Mapdaddy barometric-correcting MAP sensor, the variable TPS, and an EBC solenoid. Add the LC-1, and the 460/550s, and you're set. One bonus with this, even though it is slightly more expensive, is that you're able to make more power at the same boost levels, for 3 reasons: 1. Fuel pump/FPR will very rarely give you a perfect AFR curve. You'll usually have to compromise, with a rich midrange or a rich top-end or some imperfection. With the MS, you can have a perfect fuel curve no matter what. 2. With the Bipes, you can only remove timing, based on load, RPM, and boost pressure. It doesn't allow you to add timing after the torque peak, which is useful for maintaining the torque peak longer and producing not only more power, but a more driveable car. The MS allows you to make your own timing maps, which means you get to do whatever you want with timing, including adding it back in after the torque peak. 3. Boost control. Electronic boost controllers cost around $300; with the MSPNP, all you need is a $12 3-way solenoid from the GM parts bin and you have full boost control, and the ability to vary it with throttle position and RPM. With a bandaid setup, your 8psi will taper to 6 or so at redline; with the MSPNP, your 10-15psi will still be 10-15psi at redline, which means more top end power. You can also tune the EBC to spool the turbo faster by not allowing the wastegate to open until you have reached maximum boost. That's not the best part, however. Whereas with a bandaid setup you'd be limited to 10psi, with the Megasquirt, you can run as much as you want, limited by your fuel grade and turbo size. I am currently running around 15psi on 91 octane using the same turbo BEGI sells in their new kit. With the MSPNP, 300whp is a new turbo, injectors, and a retune away. Once you compare the cost of an FPR/Bipes/O2 clamp/fuel pump to the price of an MSPNP, it begins to make a lot of sense. On top of all that, the MSPNP also has the ability to do launch control, flatfoot shifting, antilag, nitrous control, on-the-fly tuning, and there are a couple of people working on using the un-used fuel duty cycle table to run a high-speed valve for a cheap DIY water injection kit. I could go on and on and on 
Savington fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Nov 9, 2007 |
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Nov 9, 2007 05:28
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Ize posted:Edit 2: what kind of whp *typically* nets high 13's in the quarter? A bit over 200? I know Miatas aren't drag cars but I will be able to hit the strip more often than the local autocrosses and VIR. 200-220whp should get you there, with a good launch. Figure around $4k in parts to get there. (BEGi-S, intercooler, MSPNP, injectors, LC-1, BOV, 2.5" exhaust, ACT HD clutch, aluminum radiator) Sounds like a lot, but when you compare it to the kits that are offered, you have to realize that those kits don't include a clutch, exhaust, or a radiator. I spent $1300 on those bits alone (premade stainless-steel 3" exhaust=pricey) mobn posted:So you're going to be coming to Wisconsin to help me out once I get the money together to go turbo, right? Everyone has their price 
Savington fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Nov 9, 2007 |
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Nov 9, 2007 07:22
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Vitamin J posted:Wait, you're telling me I can have anti-lag on my Miata?! Turbo life shortens to around 3000 miles.
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Nov 9, 2007 09:26
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destructo posted:You really ought to install them bit by bit -- in the event that you gently caress something up, it'll be a lot easier to diagnose what you did. I'd recommend doing the S kit with FPR first, then adding the MS, LC-1, and injectors, so you get used to the MS and how to use it and tune with it. Then when you're ready for more power, add the full exhaust, intercooler, and clutch, and bump up the boost. e: dammit, sorry for double post
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Nov 9, 2007 09:28
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AkrisD posted:Does anyone have any info on Turboing the 99-00 Miatas? I see all this info on NA models but a lot pertains to upgrading the stuff to a later year Miata or using MSPNP which cant be used on NB models (AFAIK). Is it a better idea just to jump right in with the Bell S3 kit or should I do a couple other things first? Your "moderate" power goals will do 0-60 in under 5 seconds and produce low 13-second quarter mile passes, and if you want that much power reliably in a 99+ you will probably need to do a bit of motor work. If you can get a ride in someone's turboed Miata, do so; it will give you a much better idea of how much power you actually want. 200whp is enough to hang with STIs. Turboing a '99 is very possible, and you can still run an MS, but it's a little tougher, since the timing is not as easily adjusted and the compression is higher. You'll have to add a CAS from the NA Miata (easy) and parallel-wire a MS. There are kits available for the '99, and right now, that is probably the easiest way to get it done. BEGi's S2/S3 kit is a solid option for the '99. Stay away from any NA mods if you intend to turbo the car. The turbo muffles the exhaust, which allows a free-flowing exhaust. Using a turbo exhaust without a turbo will result in a pretty loud car, louder than you'd want to drive every day.
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Nov 9, 2007 22:30
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AkrisD posted:God, I didn't realize how fast that'd be. I guess I'm just thinking of Fbodys and such with 300+hp stock. F-body = 3400lbs Miata = 2400lbs
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Nov 9, 2007 22:42
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Schwack posted:The S2 kit is only like $60 cheaper than the S3 and I figured the slightly larger turbo from the S3 kit would give me more room to work with should I get a hankering for more power down the road. The only difference between the S2 and the S3 is the turbo; the S2 uses a GT2554R, and the S3 uses a GT2560R. (the difference for those not versed in Garrett nomenclature is a slightly larger exhaust turbine wheel on the GT2560R) There was a thread discussing the differences over at MiataTurbo.net, and the consensus was that the 2554R has excellent spool, and the 2560 does nothing very well, but everything decently. For someone who will never touch the stock internals, I would go with a GT2554R (my car has a 2554). For someone who wants to reach 250whp easily, the 2560 might be the ticket, but you'll give up spool. I would much rather have a 230whp car that spools faster than a 250whp car. You give up 300rpm of spool for 20hp on the top end. If you're going to change internals, the S4 with the EWG and a GT2871R will get you to 300whp with ease, and give you headroom for much, much more power with big boost and methanol injection.
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Nov 10, 2007 01:20
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Schwack posted:Did you end up using the Xede piggyback or some other kind of management? Im afraid of Megasquirt, but I could probably be convinced of its superiority, haha. My setup is actually custom. I'm running a GT2554R, BEGi manifold and BEGi divorced-tube DP, but everything else was assembled from my local pneumatic supply store, various online vendors and eBay. I am using a MegasquirtPNP with EBC and Mapdaddy, Innovate LC-1, and 460cc injectors from an S5 NA Rx7. The tuning software for MS, Megatune, is freeware (might be shareware now, either way it's free) so you can download it and fiddle around with it. It's an extremely powerful ECU, as powerful as any other full standalone for about half the price.
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Nov 10, 2007 02:09
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Break. posted:the GT2860RS is a great turbo that has a fast spool, so I would suggest that over anything larger if you are looking for 200whp. Just my two cents. The 2860RS is big, and I wouldn't recommend it anyway. I would recommend a 2871, since it will flow harder, like a 3071, but it will still spool nearly as well as the Disco Potato. small 2554 -> 2560 -> 2860 -> 2860RS -> 2871 -> 3071 -> 3076 big
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Nov 10, 2007 02:51
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velocityJE posted:Holy crap, I'm saving up for this for my '99, wish they'd announce the price already. I have a few questions though. Given that I'm somewhat proficient at car work, could I install and set it up on my own? Also, does that kit have everything necessary to run 5-6 psi safely on my '99, or would I need to do ECU upgrades and such? What kind of power would it make at that pressure? The kit will be complete. Just install everything and go. If you can install a new suspension or a set of brakes (pads and rotors), you can install a turbo. It's just a different part of the car. Cars are a lot less complicated than mechanics make them out to be.
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Nov 12, 2007 04:16
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Phone posted:Note: To change the headlights on an NA, you don't have to take the entire ring and spring off, just the silver ring holding the bulb in place. Everyone figures that out after the first side.  E-code headlights are one of the better cheap mods I've done to my car. I've got 55w lowbeams and 100w highbeams, and the lows leave a bit to be desired. I would go 80w if I did it again. The 100w highbeams are incredible, though.
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Nov 14, 2007 11:10
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Psylocibe posted:Hey guys, I'm going to be checking this out for a Socal goon, and I need to know what I need to keep an eye out for. Walk away. That's a thousand bucks high for that car with a good history, and that one has been crashed. $6k will buy him a very nice 60,000 mile NA if he's willing to be patient.
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Nov 15, 2007 12:42
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 disappearing body linesThe car still isn't worth $6k, just based on mileage. It would be a decent buy at $5.5k, though.
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Nov 16, 2007 03:39
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With a great top, TB/WP done, and a perfect exterior, with that mileage, $4800 would be a very good buy. Offer him $4500, and if he stays firm, write a check for the full amount and don't look back.
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Nov 20, 2007 09:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:Out of curiosity, how long are you guys pushing your Miatas on oil changes? Thanks to our recent move we are putting a shitload of miles on our '99 - on the order of 40-50 miles a day at least five if not six days a week. I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic on 5000 mile intervals, but if I'm having to dive in there nearly every three months like clockwork, the idea of switching over to the Mobil 1 Extended Performance and pushing it to, say, 8000 or 10000 miles is tempting. Do a change at 5000 miles, and send it to Blackstone Labs. They do oil analysis on engines for the public. Then, send them a sample of 7500 mile old oil, and 10,000 mile old oil. They should be able to tell you whether your engine and your driving style and that particular oil will still give you good lubrication after X miles. Me, I've been doing them every 2500-3000 miles with Mobil, but I have over 4000 on the current batch. It's getting changed when I go home for Christmas. I do have about a thousand track miles on the car in the last 9000 miles, though.
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Nov 20, 2007 21:13
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Dicker posted:i dont know if the NB is different, but the intake is a MUCH bigger improvement Dremel a hole in your firewall and run a ShopVac hose from the airbox to the trough below the windscreen wipers and see the same gains. 
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Nov 22, 2007 10:28
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destructo posted:Tell me I'm an idiot. Ok Logical approach: +0 offset wheels will make the steering heavier, the scrub radius larger, and the car will be slower in general. You'll also be forced to run 195/50 or 205/50 tires, with seriously rolled/pulled fenders or flares, and you won't be able to lower your car more than about an inch without flares. Proper offset wheels are better in every way, except for mabye looks, which is subjective. Emotional approach: Nothing looks more bitchin' than a Miata on 6ULs.  
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Nov 28, 2007 22:03
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I'd find a vendor in the US who'd be willing to ship to Germany. Bilsteins aren't great unless you have them revalved. I'd really try to find a set of Koni Sports. You WILL need an alignment, since the shocks do lower the car slightly just from changing the perch height. Bring them these specs, and make sure they match them exactly. Front: Camber: -1.3° Caster: As much as possible Toe: 0 Rear: Camber: -1.8° Toe: 1/32" total toe in (edit: durr, Germans are smart enough to not use inches. 1/32" = 0.075°) If they cannot hit the camber numbers on one of the 4 corners, max that corner, set the other side equal, and then make sure you maintain a -.5° split front to rear, with more rear.
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Nov 29, 2007 00:37
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n8r posted:Savington: What alignment numbers are those? I know there are a lot of named alignments out there. I was going to get the "flying miata" alignment this spring. That's a slightly-modified Lanny alignment. He uses 1.75 in the rear and 1.2 in the front, with 1/32" toe in per side on all 4 corners. I have 1/32" per side toe out in the front, and it hasn't been nice to the insides of my tires, but I do quite a bit of highway driving. I say 1/32" total toe in for the rear, since you NEVER want ANY toe out in the rear. If you want a more responsive turn-in, try 1/16" total toe out in the front, but know that you'll be doing more regular rotations, and you may be forced into at least one side-to-side swap during the life of the tires. My next alignment will be 0 toe in the front and 1/32" total toe in in the rear.
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Nov 29, 2007 07:00
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Schwack posted:Ok help me out here, how much would it realistically cost me to buy a base model car and do the LSD install myself? I've found a fairly nice looking one, but its a base model car. I like not having a ton of power options, but I really want the LSD. Would it be worth it to jump on this one? $800-$1k for the LSD swap. I'm not sure whether you need halfshafts and a driveshaft if you already have a 7" diff; I know the guys going from 1.6 diffs to the 7" Torsen need that stuff. Either way, it's not a good idea to buy a base car and then retrofit a Torsen. Search for a car that's already got it; you'll save money in the long run.
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Dec 1, 2007 00:16
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destructo posted:It all makes sense when you see the rear end Jesus, no kidding about the Karmann-Ghia rape. It's even got the same badges.
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Dec 8, 2007 06:00
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soulescape posted:I figured I'd post here instead of making a new thread. If the replies are limited, I'll have to make a new one. Either your clutch slave cylinder or your clutch master cylinder is leaking fluid. 1. Check the clutch reservoir. Under the hood, it's the small plastic container at the far left corner, next to the back of the engine bay. Black cap about 1.5" diameter. If it's empty, or nearly empty, fill it up. It isn't the big brake master cylinder reservoir; it's the smaller one that's further to the left. 2. Grab a flashlight and kneel down next to the passenger tire. Shine the light between the tire and the fender so the fender is on your left, tire on your right. It's a bit hard to see, but bolted to your transmission is the clutch slave cylinder. If it is drenched in fluid, it is leaking and it needs to be replaced. It's like a $50 part and the repair takes 20 minutes. Pick it up from Rosenthal Mazda in Virginia; they'll be cheaper than your local dealer, if you can wait for it to be shipped. 3. If it is NOT drenched in fluid, your master cylinder is probably the culprit. I don't know exactly where this is on the car, but it doesn't matter because they leak internally so you won't see any fluid seepage. The fluid will just sort of disappear. 
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Dec 9, 2007 04:53
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vex posted:You don't know where the master cylinder is? The one attached through the firewall to the clutch pedal, right next to the brake master cylinder? That is correct. I have removed the engine, taken apart most of the dashboard, removed the air conditioning, installed a rollbar, replaced the shocks, springs, both rollbars, replaced all 4 pads and rotors at least twice and the front pads 4 times now, and fabricated and installed my own turbocharger setup, as well as my own oil cooler, and I have never actually taken serious notice of the clutch master cylinder.
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Dec 10, 2007 09:54
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Walked posted:How big of a deal is buying a miata that was autocrossed for a season? Mainly in reference to clutch life and transmission abuse. Well-loved and well cared-for. I'd place  on the fact that the current owner's had the car since 48,000 miles? I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a car that's been autocrossed, but part of that is because I'll do so much worse to it (extensive track use).
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Dec 11, 2007 21:30
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Schwack posted:Ok, so now that I own a Miata, Im trying to price out how much it will cost me to turbo it. Potatos are doing 250-270whp. For 180-200whp, a GT2554R is all you need. Mabye a 2560 if you intend on hitting 240whp someday. The difference was described to me like this: The GT2554R has phenomenal low end, and the GT2560 has OK low end and OK top end. The GT2554R does something really well, while the GT2560 does nothing really well, but a couple of things pretty well. I just did 219whp on a conservative Dynojet with a GT2554R, 3" exhaust, MSPNP, and a lovely tune. On top of your list, which is very good, you will need: -Clutch (ACT HD with a street disc is perfect for your needs, about $300 shipped) -Exhaust (variety of options, I LOVE my 3" Enthuza, but it was pricey at $450) -Radiator (more and more options coming out by the day, the new hot one is the Godspeed radiators available for about $160. All aluminum and cheap as gently caress.) The LC-1 is a great thing to have, even if you just hook it into the MS and forget about it. You can do a pull at any time, datalog it, and have instant peace of mind. If you intend to track the car, I would strongly recommend an oil cooler as well. If you go with push-lock fittings and high-temp silicone/rubber hoses, you can keep the costs under about $220. I like the GT2554R/GT2560R better than the GT28xx turbos, because after 250whp you are going to want to build the shortblock to maintain reliability. You can stuff 220whp through stock internals all day long, but 250whp is pushing it a little bit. If you're going to build the shortblock, you may as well build it for 400whp, which is a pretty simple formula (full rebuild + CAT/Belfab rods and FM Weiscos). If you have a motor capable of 400whp, you may as well get a turbo that is capable of the low 300whp range, which is a GT2871R or a GT3071R. It's a classic "in for a penny in for a pound" case. Third edit now: If your suspension/brakes are not sorted, do that first. At a bare minimum, you will want new shocks, firmer springs, and possibly a set of antiroll bars. For brakes, for street only, I would go with NAPA rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and a quality high-temp fluid like ATE Superblue/Type200. For track, replace Hawk HPS with Hawk Blues in the front and Blacks in the rear. A guy in Norcal just wrecked his supercharged NA on stock suspension; you can't go about doubling the power of a car without upgrading the suspension as well; a 200whp Miata is a pretty serious machine. Shocks are $550, springs/coilovers are $250-400, ARBs are $200 for a set, shock mounts can be $100-200, and a full brake renovation will be around $250 for 1.8 brakes, or a lot more for Sport brakes (cost of rotors). Savington fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Dec 14, 2007 |
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Dec 14, 2007 00:04
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