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Ziploc posted:At what power gains do you start having to factor a beefier clutch? Almost immediately for a 1.6, about 165-170whp for a 1.8. If you are not a weight freak, the recommended upgrade for both 1.6 and 1.8 cars is a slightly beefier 1.8 clutch. The only thing needed to swap a 1.8 clutch onto a 1.6 motor is a 1.8 flywheel.
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Dec 14, 2007 00:43
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 18:44 |
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The new Toyo R1R should be an excellent R-S2 competitor as well. Directly aimed at the STS2 market (max 7.5" wheel width, min 140 UTQG), it'll be sticky and wide and fit perfectly on an 8" wheel. The R-S2 shouldn't be terribly hard to find right now, though, unless they are on national backorder again. They will probably be on backorder once the 6ULs ship in January, by the way. Emilio has literally sold every single 225/45-15 Hankook RS2 in the country every time a shipment of wheels arrives in his shop. If you intend on running them, buy them now, either through Emilio or through another shop.
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Dec 14, 2007 08:29
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Break. posted:Hey Savington, when you say exhaust, do you mean you bought a muffler, or a full 3" exhaust from the downpipe back? If not, why didn't you just run a little straight pipe? It's a 3" stainless steel catback. I am also running a 3" Magnaflow metal-core catalytic converter (goal is to pass the sniffer with the MS in California). The DP is a standard BEGI stainless DP that was bumped from 2.75" to 3". Break. posted:I have talked to Corky Bell about the clutch issue and he said that unless you have a 220+ whp car, the clutch is not an immediate issue, as long as you don't dump it at stop lights and such. If Corky says it, it's probably true. I really like to abuse my car, though. My ACT HD/6-puck is rated for a lot more torque than I'm putting out, which means I get to stick it in first gear, give it 5000rpm, and just dump the clutch and watch the revs skyrocket as I slither away from the rural intersection I've just terrorized.  A stock clutch at 220whp is probably a bit of a pipe dream, but I'd say you could get away with 180, MABYE 190whp if you really babied it. No hard shifts, no long slips, and NO drag racing. Drag racing is what really kills clutches and transmissions.Break. posted:Does the MSPNP come with injectors or do I need to buy those separately? You'll have to get injectors separately. On MiataTurbo.net, Braineack's FAQ has a full list of every injector that is a direct plug-and-play to our harness, dwell, and impedance settings. I am running 460cc Rx7 injectors that literally dropped right into place of the stockers and work exactly like the stockers did, except they flow an extra 200cc/min of fuel each. If you think the Disco Potato spools well, you'll be stunned by a GT2554R. 8psi by 3000rpm on a really poorly tuned spark map. A GT2860RS will take you well past 250whp, probably up to 300whp if you really strained the turbo with a little water/meth injection. The point is that while both turbos will get you 220whp, the smaller turbo will always produce a more driveable, fun car. The big turbo will RIP from about 4500rpm to redline, but with the small turbo, the fun starts at about 3k. destructo posted:Christmas came early Let's see them on the car 
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Dec 14, 2007 22:44
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. 949racing 6UL's, 15x8, 12.8lbs
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Break. posted:thanks for all the info, I guess the turbo choice really comes down to personal preference. I really wish the Bell XEDE wasn't 1500 dollars even with the injectors, because they provide free support as much as you need. I really wish I was almost done with my car. Xede is $1k without the injectors. I would still go with an MSPNP. Jerry's customer service is the best, and there's a wealth of knowledge over at MT.net. Lots of guys running MS boxes, so chances are if you have an issue or are struggling with an aspect of the tuning process, someone there will know how to get you through it. The MSPNP, IMO, has really made most of the other fuel/ignition options obsolete. Complete control for $725 cannot be touched.
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Dec 15, 2007 11:18
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It's the heater hose that goes behind the motor. The CAS O-ring is leaky, and it drips oil onto the heater hose, which then gets weak and eventually breaks. You know, that poo poo I was telling you to replace. 
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Jan 27, 2008 03:10
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I use blind-spot mirrors. They look ridiculous, but the confidence is huge. It's also nice being able to see EXACTLY where the curb is when you are parking.
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Jan 27, 2008 22:48
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Vitamin J posted:These are good tires, but they don't last very long. I had some 195/45/14 T1-Rs, they didn't even last the whole summer! I think I got 10k miles out of them. You must have been driving like a total cock. I got 10k out of a set of Hankook R-S2s, which wear faster, and that 10k included 12 track events.
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Jan 28, 2008 00:26
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mobn posted:I'm beginning to suspect that my Miata is in need of an alignment. It's been dancing around all over the place lately. What are some good settings that are a decent compromise between handling and tire wear? Mostly highway: -Max front caster (equal on both sides, i.e. if left can get 4.5° and right can get 5.2°, make both sides 4.5°) -1° front camber -1.5° rear camber -0 front toe -1/32" total rear toe in For more aggressive driving, add .3° of camber front and rear, and run the front caster at 3.5°. For even more aggressive, add 1/16" total front toe out, but it will take a toll on the front tire wear.
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Feb 5, 2008 01:42
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chem42 posted:Miata engines are pretty much unblowupable. Big forged rods, oil squirters, iron block, etc. It's a non-interferance motor (which is rare for a high strung DOHC motor) so even a timing belt failure is no biggie. To be fair, now, they are badass, but the rods aren't forged (at least I don't believe they are).
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Feb 6, 2008 02:38
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destructo posted:edit: goddammit, had no idea it was a RX-7 hood. The, uh, rotors on the top didn't give it away?
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Feb 11, 2008 20:38
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mobn posted:Hell, in normal driving the LSD can get pretty annoying, especially on snow, where the car gets all tail waggy the instant one wheel slips. My LSD is invisible in everyday driving, until I switch into rear end in a top hat mode, and then I want both wheels propelling me as quickly forward as possible.
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Feb 13, 2008 11:22
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Ize posted:Cross posting from another thread because I wanna see of I can get an explanation. gently caress FujiRacing. I've never seen a legitimate dyno chart for that car, and all he does is post lovely 12-second videos of his car beating stock Miatas while his moronic fanbois scream about how IRTBS ROCKKKK and THE R STANDS FOR RACING and JIMMYS CAR IS SO NICE AND IT WILL WALK ALL OVER ANYTHING EVER IN THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD AND TURBO CARS HAVE ROAD SOFT SUSPENSION At least one respectable person has driven Jimmy's car, and they said the car was practically undriveable under 4000rpm, and the thing was downright dangerous from a safety standpoint. He tried to claim 175whp on IRTBs and an ECU on stock internals and got called out big time. The only possible explanation for that car going that fast would be a totally stripped interior and mabye some magic fairy dust. I counted closer to 15 seconds, BTW. Savington fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Feb 14, 2008 |
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Feb 14, 2008 01:27
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leica posted:Wow, sounds like it's personal or something. No, I just think his products are overpriced, and he has this nasty habit of posting up "endorsements" of his company and his products that don't really do either. Here's a thread comparing his header to an RB header, including dyno charts, even though the RB header makes more power and more torque everywhere. The only reason his header "appears" to make more power at the top is because they stopped the RB header pull at 6000rpm, and let his header run to 6500rpm. http://www.clubroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15111&highlight=post The other thread that makes me laugh at anything that comes out of that shop is the one that's been deleted, but it was a dyno chart of Jimmy supposedly ripping 175whp squarely out of his rear end, complete with incorrect chart scales and a torque curve that didn't even match the horsepower curve. I believe someone paid for him to re-dyno his car, and the numbers suddenly matched - at 150whp. Here's my essay post on that dyno chart. (written before I became a mod over there) I'm no stranger to the world of throttle response, either. I've got a CR125 bolted to a shifter kart frame with a 38mm Keihin carb that will rev from a 1700rpm idle to about 12k in under a second. That thing has throttle response like an ITB owner cannot even dream of. Do I still think ITBs are overpriced and useless? Yeah. You guys can brag about throttle respose and the feel of the car all day long, and I'll just nod my head, smile, and ride a WAVE of mid-range torque that a built NA motor will never achieve. edit: "BTW, the car is nowhere remotely close to street able. It takes an act of congress to move the car from a stop, and pukes and farts below 4k rpm. Its like drag-race rotary motors...every one I've ever seen has "barely" run." Savington fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Feb 15, 2008 |
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Feb 15, 2008 03:01
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I still can't believe CE28N parted his car out.
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Feb 15, 2008 09:12
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You'll notice a change in highway stability, but you'll notice pretty much the same difference with the OEM R-package lip, and the OE lip can take some serious abuse (I hit a log with mine), whereas the Garage Vary is liable to crack or just straight up shatter if you hit something like a heavy autocross cone. Difference between hard plastic and soft plastic (GV vs. OEM). I like my OEM quite a bit. Had my car up to quite unmentionable speeds yesterday and it still felt stable.
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Feb 17, 2008 23:30
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Baby Hitler posted:
Stfu. Rosenthal Mazda has a pretty good price on the OEM spoiler, as does Trussville Mazda. Both around 150-160 shipped.
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Feb 18, 2008 04:05
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about poo poo we've moved on from
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FireTora posted:Now I just need to get a manual steering rack and the replacement pulley for it... Just loop your power steering lines, or do the FM depower method. No need to swap racks. Plus, the power rack has a quicker steering ratio anyway.
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Feb 21, 2008 03:08
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Konis + stock springs is probably the best full-time street setup there is. mobn posted:I heartily recommend the Enkei RPF-1s. They 15s are fully 2 pounds lighter apiece than the lightest 14s that came stock and the size increase allows for fatter tires. The 14x5.5 Volk CE28N is 6.5lbs  Unless Enkei is making wheels out of pure unobtanium, I don't think they've gotten lighter than the VolksI will recommend 6ULs until the cows come home. Cheaper than the Enkeis, and stronger, and wider.
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Feb 22, 2008 18:41
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brosef deluxe posted:I'll eventually plunk down the cash for the 6UL's. That is my wheel of dreams. rimzzzz   You know you want a set when Emilio's next batch ships at the end of March...
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Feb 26, 2008 20:52
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Ziploc posted:Are FM Sways going to ruin the toss-ability of my car? FM sways will make the car better.
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Mar 4, 2008 23:29
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leica posted:Are FM sways better than others? I had put sways (I think Racing Beat) on my '91 and it made the front end push really bad. I took them off the next day. The size of your bars and your spring rates really rely on each other. Fat Cat Motorsports has a great spreadsheet that lets you play with all of those variables; I used it to set my car up and I am extremely happy with the end result (700# front springs, 450# rear springs, 1.125" tubular front bar, 14mm rear bar).
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Mar 5, 2008 10:32
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Phone posted:Fuckin' UPS guy dropped the air dam in my garage without ringing the doorbell or anything. Quit your bitching. They delivered my rollbar and harnesses (a 70lb triangular package worth around $1100) to my neighbors. You're lucky UPS didn't install the drat lip on his truck. :P
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Mar 11, 2008 21:22
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I paid a little over $4k for a car with 20k less miles, perfect top, brand new TB/WP/radiator, no oil leaks, and perfect brakes. $3500 is absurd. Talk him down to $2k and you can fix all of those issues, though. Oil leak is probably the CAS, leak at the firewall is a bent heater hose pipe (easy fix), leak at the radiator may be the radiator itself, or it may just be a cap. Nothing you listed is a terminal issue, except mabye the paint issue, but if you can live with it then it's probably fine.
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Mar 12, 2008 01:33
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For $2k you can have a very nice $3500 Miata after you put $1500 in work into it.
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Mar 12, 2008 06:00
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FireTora posted:You need the gc sleeves to use those eibach spring due to their 2.5" diameter. You can get the gc's from any supplier that sells them, ground control has a pretty tight lockdown on their pricing so price will be the same everywhere. Savington is running the koni race shocks which are about twice the price of the regular koni sports but any place that carries konis should be able to order either for you. You want the sleeves so you can use the springs, but they make springs that don't need sleeves too. The main benefit of the sleeves is that they let you run whatever ride height you want. So you can git slammmd y0
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Mar 16, 2008 03:03
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Ize posted:But do they make 750/450 springs that don't need sleeves? Or is that just the street springs? My springs are 700/450, and you need sleeves with them because I don't think anyone makes a stock-diameter spring in those rates. You do realize that only a racing shock (aka Koni 28/30s, Koni Race, Penske, etc.) will handle those rates, right? Not even a Tein Flex will do my rates.
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Mar 17, 2008 06:59
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Sweet. For those rates, there's no cheaper shock than the Koni Race. Be sure to spend the appropriate coin on a rollbar/seats/harnesses as well; if I could only make one modification to a bone-stock car, it would be adding a racing seat.
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Mar 17, 2008 09:49
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XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX posted:What seat(s) do you have in your car? I have been thinking about buying aftermarket seats for quite a while, but I dont really know what the best mounting options are, if I would like to use them in my daily driver, etc. I am moving to San Jose sometime this summer/fall for work. Maybe I could check yours out sometime? I am using old-style Momo Starts in my car, bolted to custom rails which are bolted to the floor. The mounting procedure to get the seats down as low as I have mine is long, labor-intensive, irreversible, and I cannot really recommend it to anyone. I am 19 and immune to pain, so I can use them every day without issue; I've done 10.5k in the last 8 months or so with them.
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Mar 19, 2008 06:07
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Depends on how big you really are. I'm 5'9, 180-185lbs, 32" waist, and I fit in my Starts very comfortably. The best option is to sit in a bunch of seats; the Starts I have are probably one of the larger seats available.
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Mar 19, 2008 06:22
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mobn posted:Looks like they have a couple I can squeeze into. I should probably just wait until I've dropped all the weight I want to ditch first though. You aren't going to find a seat that 1. you fit in comfortably and 2. fits in the Miata. There are some tall guys that fit into Miatas, but big is hard to do. The biggest I've seen with a racing seat was 6'3 and 230, and he had a Kirkey bolted to the floor. Not a comfortable daily setup in the least.
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Mar 19, 2008 08:45
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MourningGlory posted:Is it possible to modify the "surfboard" style seat backs to have pass-throughs for a harness? It seems that might be the next best option for guys that can't fit in proper race seats. Specifically listed as a major no-no in the Schroth installation instructions.
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Mar 21, 2008 12:17
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compton rear end terry posted:Bumping this as it got lost in the spring discussion. You sure your AFM is working?
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Mar 23, 2008 02:50
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butt terrarium posted:Not if you'd like to keep the feeling in your cheeks for more than 10 minutes everytime you drive. I put like a thousand miles on my car in the last 2 weeks. The ride quality is way, way better than you think it is.
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Apr 2, 2008 23:44
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jromano posted:I'm considering a Miata, but I have two concerns. I'm 6'1" so size could be a problem. Some people who are 6'4" say they fit fine, while others who are 5'7 say it's too tight. You can definitely fit, just depends on how comfortable you'll be. The only way to know is to sit in one. 4-5k will get you a pretty drat nice NA, so that's what I'd shoot for. Try to find one with under 100k miles on it, with documented service history for the timing belt/water pump change at 60k.
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Apr 12, 2008 09:02
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HolyChase posted:Is the gearing on the NB's very short or was this just for the MSMs? Do people prefer the 6 speeds over the 5 speeds as it is a higher priced option? With my complaints about the MSM, does it make sense that maybe I would prefer a 5 speed? It's certainly possible. I prefer the 5-speed gears, and I have had both in my 220whp '94. HolyChase posted:Since I am here asking questions, has anyone gone from a higher level sports car down to a Miata and found it bearable? I love Miatas, but fear I may have spoiled myself rotten doing the financial stretch into the S2000. Dono. I might drive an S2000 tomorrow (popping my S2000 cherry  ) so I'll let you know. destructo posted:The 6-speeds have been known to be questionable in "feel", most people prefer the 5-speed, but if you're going to push more than 250whp you're likely to grenade the thing at some point (the 5). That said, the 6-speed gives about a .5 sec decrease on the 0-60 times, and essentially the same cruising RPM on the top end, so if you can get a nice-feeling 6-speed and don't worry much about rowing, I'd go for it. 1. blew my OEM 5-speed at my current power level 2. with as much power as I have I doubt it's worth anything in 0-60 times, 2nd gear is really stupidly short, like 53mph with a stock redline. I get like 56mph out of it with my 7400rpm rev limiter. 3. You're gonna be rowing, a lot. Honestly, if you aren't going to turbo the car, get a 5-speed. Phone posted:The 6-speed has the same final ratio as the 5-speed (I think at the diff), so I have no idea why they even offer it. 90-93: all 4.3 94-97: all 4.1 99+: all 5-speeds 4.3 non-MSM 6-speeds 3.9 MSM 6-speeds 4.1 Australian 6-speeds 3.636 
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Apr 13, 2008 10:13
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Some videos, for your viewing enjoyment. (boostu inside) 0-60ish 4.9 seconds 60ish-120ish 14.7 seconds Times are datalogged confirmed. Both pulls made on a closed circuit. The speedo and tachometer are both off; 7400rpm=7000rpm and 130mph=136mph.
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Apr 24, 2008 10:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:I take it there's no easy way of recalibrating it with speedometer gears and/or reprogramming? Doesn't explain the tach either 6-speed thinks there's a 3.9 rear end back there, but there's a 4.1. So it should actually read fast by a few percent, but  The datalog says I lifted off the gas at 7000rpm in 6th on the 60-120+ pull, and 7000rpm with a 22.7" tire, a .846:1 6th gear, and a 4.1:1 rear end is 136mph.All Miata tachometers read high, as well, by 300-400rpm at redline. Go run your car into the rev limiter sometime; it's set at 7000, but the tach will read like 7200+. Savington fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Apr 24, 2008 |
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Apr 24, 2008 20:07
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GOD IT HURTS SO BADLY I HAVE TO PUT 91 OCTANE INTO MY CAR AND IT COSTS ME TWO DOLLARS MORE A loving TANK AND I AM A WHINY oval office WHOSE BELT IS CINCHED SO TIGHT IT IS CAUSING INTERNAL ORGAN DAMAGE Jesus loving christ, people.
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Apr 25, 2008 18:38
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einTier posted:For the record, my Spec Miata suspension, which included bumpstops, Bilstein coilovers (adjustable perch height, rebuildable), Eibach springs, and Eibach adjustable sways was $1300. Just a thought. I have no idea how extreme you want to go, but when I did it, it was pretty much the best bang for my buck. Please, I know you think it's great, but stop suggesting this. The SM suspension is quite possibly the worst thing you could spend $1300 on. If it cost $700, then fine, but the spring rates are wrong, and the shocks are not even remotely valved for the springrates. The only way the SM suspension can be good is if you were to revalve the Bilsteins and tweak the rates, and then you've just dumped $1700 into a non-adjustable suspension.  Amir, I would do the second set of things you posted, but do Konis instead of Illuminas. The Illuminas are good for stock spring rates, but the Konis give you a lot of room to grow into a stiffer setup if you want to later. With Konis, stock springs, FM sways, and FCM mounts/bumps, you're up to $1100 or so, and you can add Ground Controls at any time and not change anything other than the alignment.
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Apr 25, 2008 20:17
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 18:44 |
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http://youtube.com/watch?v=8wCII2lF_x8 I can't say I recommend this.
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Apr 27, 2008 11:21
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