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meatpimp posted:
Crap. So my '91 has started to develop a "stiffness" between 1 and 2. I assumed this was the synchro going out, but I had hoped switching over to GM Synchromesh might make it go away. Anything I can do to prevent it from dying on me? What is the normal cost for a rebuild?
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Oct 16, 2007 17:16
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Tai-Pan posted:Crap. So my '91 has started to develop a "stiffness" between 1 and 2. I assumed this was the synchro going out, but I had hoped switching over to GM Synchromesh might make it go away. Bumping my own question. Is there any other option or am I looking at a rebuild?
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Oct 18, 2007 18:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:To both you and pimpsolo (too many *pimp* usernames with Miatas): You can buy a good used 1.8 gearbox for $200 or so on eBay or from car-part.com. Seems like that would make more sense than a rebuild to me. How do you know if a tranny is any good online? Also 45 minutes to swap it? What sort of miata maintenance machine are you?
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Oct 19, 2007 16:13
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chem42 posted:I did the same thing. I bought the car for $150 with 215k miles, a slipped timing belt, and a torn up top. I was going to fix it up and flip it, so I got a cheap top off Ebay for something like $200 and had a friend help me install it. It took us an afternoon, but it looked fine and didn't leak. It was a bit of a pain in the rear end to install and required a rivet gun. I ended up keeping the car for about a year and the top never gave me any trouble. My ebay top is 8 months old and has given me no trouble. It took me 4 weeks to install it because it rained every 15 minutes out of every hour for a month. Total instal time, by myself, was right around 7 hours. I could probably do it in 2 on my second attempt.
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Mar 5, 2008 01:41
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I noticed I am leaking coolant really fast. 91 w/ 130K. It looks like the fluid is coming out behind the cam belt cover so I think there is a 99% chance that I need a new water pump. However, the previous owner "thinks" she had the timing belt done at 120K. I would assume they did the pump at the same time. Is there any chance that it could be leaking from something else?
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Mar 26, 2008 16:36
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Ziploc posted:I give it a 99% chance that your CAS leaked onto your coolant hose and caused it to fail and leak. Well looking at the side of the block I can see the rust/discoloration on top of the alternator and on the driver side of the block toward the front. The CAS is in the back, right? However, I let the engine run for 15 minutes last night and I could not actual see any drops directly so its a bit of a mystery.
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Mar 26, 2008 19:05
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Phone posted:You mean swollen? Yes I am fairly certain the leak is coming from the front of the car, although it seems like I should check the CAS anyway. Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:
You and I sound like we have the same issue. Poking around on Miata.net, the consensus seems to be water pump.
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Mar 26, 2008 21:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:The '94 M isn't in as high demand as the '95, and that's a lot of miles even for a Miata - but if the history checks out and the car is in good condition that's probably a fair price. Ugh. That car would easily sell for $4000-$5000 in Austin. My 91 in rougher shape was a steal at $2650. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Jun 1, 2008 |
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Jun 1, 2008 18:45
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Phone posted:You did OK. Two problem areas: Coolant leak? Isn't the CAS ring going to leak oil? Also, its like a 1 hour fix to replace the ring. Do dealers really rip you off on that or something?
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Jul 1, 2008 21:38
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Don't know if this a Megathread question, but here goes; My '91 needs a freon recharge. Normally, I don't care because I always drive with the top down, but I have been driving it more frequently to work and I don't want to arrive sweaty. A freon recharge is $350. [Side note, I remember paying .79 cents a can for this stuff back in the day]. Does anyone have any experience with the r-13 retrofit kits? I have heard everything from "they don't work" to "they work but at about 70% as well as freon". Any other alternatives? Some people have reported success with propane...
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Jul 3, 2008 18:08
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I am getting the S-code errors (flashing airbag light). Since I need to get the car inspected, I gotta fix this. There have been a lot of mixed reviews of the "replace the capacitors" trick. Anyone here tried it with success?
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Aug 2, 2008 20:07
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ARGGGG> I need help. My NA is making a grinding noise when I press on the brakes lightly. It sounds exactly like metal-on-metal pad failure and is not related to turning. I checked out the pads and they look fine. Rotor looks good. I jacked up the car and the rear wheel doesn't wiggle so I don't think it is the bearings. I don't think this is related to the famous tanny buzzing noise since it happens in and out of gear. What in the hell is causing this? Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Apr 19, 2009 |
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Apr 19, 2009 19:21
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destructo posted:Just to make sure (this is rather stupid), it's not just rust is it? Whenever I let my car sit for a week, the first couple brake applications are pretty noisy until it gets scraped off. Go do a couple hard stops I got really excited and was hoping that I was a retard and completely forgot about the rust possibility, but nope. I gave the brakes a solid work out and nothing changed. I did, however, notice that it can be intermittent. It frequently happens when I am braking, but I can still hear it when I am coasting to a stop, and every once in a while it goes away while coasting to a stop so I am thinking that perhaps one side of the calipers is stuck. Is that possible? Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Apr 23, 2009 |
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Apr 23, 2009 07:04
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Phone posted:Is it just random squeaking when driving? Well there was some squeaking when I first noticed it, but now it sounds more like a badly worn pad (metal on metal) which is very audible when braking and occasionally audible when just coasting to a stop.
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Apr 23, 2009 18:49
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My braking woes continue. 1991 NA, stock. I replaced the rear caliper and a few weeks later a repeating "clunking" noise started appearing in (what I think) sounds like the front drivers side. It only appears when I am braking slightly harder than lightly, essentially parking lot speed. It goes away when pressed harder. It appears to get worse while turning, but it can be hard to duplicate. Its almost like a CV, but in the front. I pulled the wheel off and everything seems okay from a visual standpoint. I checked miata net and "noises faq" suggested it was the brake splash shield, which seemed fine, or the sway bar had come loose. I am not sure how to test the sway bar, other than yanking on it, and it seemed okay too. What else should I check?
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Jul 2, 2009 21:29
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Ziploc posted:Inspect your brake slider pins? What am I looking for? I jiggled them and did not notice anything and I pulled out the pads not long ago and nothing seem out of whack. fatman1683 posted:The 'proper' way to check the swaybar is to put the front end of the car on jackstands, then put your jack under the wheel on one side and raise it, and watch if the other side goes up with it or if it stays down. Do this on both sides. I will give this a shot. Anything else I should check when its on stands?
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Jul 3, 2009 09:15
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When my girlfriend mentioned I got an old miata to a friend of hers, she said "Why? Hes not gay?!" Stupid oval office.
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Jul 7, 2009 01:02
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I popped a pinhole leak on the heater return line for my '91. I am planing on just buying the entire hose replacement kit from Rosenthal Mazda, but I wanted to see how likely it was that the others would start to develop issues. I do not want to spend the money if it is an unusual occurrence. VVV Right, but my question is if it is worth it to replace the other hoses too. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Nov 13, 2009 |
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Nov 13, 2009 17:26
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I am helping a friend fix up an NA he inherited. However, its in another state and the roof is in questionable condition so he will need to have it shipped in a closed trailer. Is there any consensus as to which shipper is the best?
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Feb 25, 2010 22:00
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Ziploc posted:Get a ragged hard top and drive it yourselves? The over condition of the car is questionable, plus neither of us have time for a 4 day round trip drive. Also, it is going to be full of spare parts and tools.
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Feb 26, 2010 00:50
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1991: Can anyone tell me the part number for the left and right heater lines from the block? And where to get them? I feel like retard, but I cannot locate the part numbers, and every site I check (rosenthal, etc) all have different numbers and different imagery.
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Mar 5, 2010 19:06
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1991 NA; I recently started experiencing some serious stall out on startup and some heavy hesitation below 3k rpm. Usually after a few minutes it goes away. I am guessing an O2 sensor. Any other things I should check?
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Sep 18, 2010 06:51
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Funny this should come up. I am in the middle of changing my slave. I parked the car for 4 weeks, came back and found I had no clutch pressure. I just assumed I needed a slave, but I have lost no fluid. The new one is on, but I am unable to to bleed it. No fluid is coming out. I even built a pressure bleeder with my shop-vac and I am getting nothing. Any idea why I am not able to bleed the system?
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Oct 14, 2011 03:48
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destructo posted:Almost-insulting question, but did you unscrew the nipple? Fair question, I have done dumber things. But yes, I did.
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Oct 14, 2011 05:01
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Well, are these really symptoms of a master though? I tried the turkey baster method and I cannot seem to push anything in the reservoir. Seems more like a jam, especially since I am not leaking any fluid. Or am I totally off here? Edit: Pulled apart the master and the seals looked good to me. The return might have been a bit slow, but not horribly off. I am stumped. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Oct 17, 2011 |
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Oct 17, 2011 00:09
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Just to close out; I swapped out the clutch master and that seems to have been the problem. I don't understand it, but whatever.
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Oct 21, 2011 05:02
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Hoping for some emergency trouble shooting help. My miata ran fine this morning. I started it up (30 degrees cooler, now in the 40s) tonight and it is barely idling and dieseling pretty bad. It will idle for about 1 second fine after coaxing it but makes no power and behaves exactly like a car with timing issues. My first guess was a loose vacuum line, but I couldn't find/hear anything there. My next guess would be a sensor, but which one? Is there an easy way to test the throttle position?
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Dec 6, 2011 04:04
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Grayham posted:Idle air control valve? Would still be worth checking. Any way to test? I pulled the ECU, looked sterile so it isn't water in there, but we did have HUGE rains this morning, so water somewhere else is possible. Pulled and cleaned the contacts on the TPS, no change. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 04:43
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Phone posted:Take a look at your wires/coilpacks... or what is left of them. Wires are less than 5k miles old. Coil packs tend to get wonky and then die right? This went from good to near-dead. There isn't a great way to test them either, is there? Edit; had to stop working on it. The old lady next door yelled at me and it started snowing. gently caress. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 05:53
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Less retard discussion, more fixing my problems. Noticed when I started it tonight it ran fine at idle for about 1 minute, revving freely. Then, pretty suddenly, it started having the same low idle problem. Does this give us any clues? I am guessing maybe the thermosensor? Is there any way to test this without removing the coil packs?
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Dec 7, 2011 03:13
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Suniikaa posted:You can try jumping the ten and ground in the diagnostics connector to see if it straightens out. Would help you narrow it down to sensors or mechanical fault. Shorting TEN GND did not show any error codes nor did it seem to have an impact. However, the car was idling much better today. This leads me to believe I have a transient/water related issue. EDIT: Arrggg drat it. Drove it and nothing has changed. I guess I did not let it get warm enough when I tested earlier. I changed the plugs and wires again anyways. No difference. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Dec 8, 2011 |
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Dec 7, 2011 23:20
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Tai-Pan posted:EDIT: Spent all last night pulling off the Coil and replacing the Thermosensor. Pulled and cleaned the throttle (which was a HUGE bitch) and replaced the TPS. Then I found the problem: bad gas. BAD. loving. GAS. In a fit of self pity I drove to the gas station stumbling and bucking all the way. I popped the gas cover and saw the thing was filled with rain water. I only had 1/8th of a tank of gas when this all started so I guess the car was running on a lovely 20% water mixture. Filled it up and so far so good. gently caress THE RAIN.
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Dec 9, 2011 17:18
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Dolphin posted:Edmunds says in average to clean condition and 150k the car is worth $363-$710 though... is that accurate? Edmunds is worthless. There are no running Miatas for $363 anywhere. Maybe ones on fire, but even then unlikely. You might get him to come off a couple of hundred bucks, but not more than that. Spec miata guys will give you a nearly grand for clean shell and block. As for other things to check; rust in the shock towers and floor pans. Date of change for the timming belt and pumps (it will need a new set soon) and whether the CAS rings have been changed. If not, expect to be replacing some rubber in the read of the block.
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Dec 9, 2011 22:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:Well you could just hide the body in a tarp, why buy a car cover for that? Well, I should have done that, because it was 1 am and I was in at a gas station. What I did was mop up all of the water in the fuel filler neck and then remove the cap and there was water dripping off of it. It wasn't on tight enough and water had been draining into it for days.
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Dec 9, 2011 23:22
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