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n8r posted:tops I just did my top 2 months ago or so. Robbins, vinyl, zip out window, rain rail attached. 12 hours later, I will *gladly* pay someone else to do that job in the future. It's not overly difficult, but hard to do it 'right'. My supercharger was easier to install. A timing belt is easier to install. The rollbar (which was mostly in the way of doing the install) was still easier to install than the drat top. My question: My dad bought a 96 with 240k miles on the chassis, ~100k on the engine. Looks like the first gear syncro has poo poo the bed (after we replaced the clutch slave cylinder, and change the gear oil). It won't stay in first gear unless you downshifted into it, and will pop out violently if you manage to force it in. So we're trying to hunt down a new tranny. Does anyone know if the 90-93's will mate up cleanly? I know the clutch/flywheels are different. Are the ratios the same in the 1.6's as the 1.8's? And the bragging part - paid $1500 for it. iscariot fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Oct 12, 2007 |
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Oct 12, 2007 07:24
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Cenuji posted:Can you expand on that at all? Is it just hard to line things up or something? The car came with a 'new' top, E-Z-On, probably a cheap 180$ ebay one. Vinyl, no zip out window. It started developing a tear where the bottom of the window folded. I installed it about 2 months ago, so in the dead of summer. Taking the old top off wasn't difficult at all. Finding the rain-rail drip cups(?) cracked and some rust on the rear shelf was a pain though. So - got some rust convertor, paint, sandpaper and went to town. Bought a random plastic piece from Lowe's and epoxied bits and pieces of it's plastic to the drip cups.  No that's epoxy, not bukkake.  The getting the new top onto the frame wasn't terribly bad. Having to find rubber cement at 1am to glue down the folds to the front of the frame was..  You're supposed to glue down that part (not the entire top half, but most of the bottom).  This was the real pain in the rear end. There's 3 bars that spread the load out. With the rollbar in the way, the ones on the sides were amazingly hard to do - because you're having to push on the bars to get the rain rail on top of the nuts, then put your arm at weird angles around the roll-bar and then around the seatbelt towers to get the drat nuts threaded. For 6 nuts, I think it took me a good 2 hours. The rear bar was even more difficult. I weigh around 180, and I was having to push back with all my weight to get the drat rear on (and yes, the top was half-way lifted up to give me some slack). Then getting the window-seals aligned. Pain in the rear end. At this point I realized I had actually bruised my fingertips - never knew that was possible. Putting the bottom pieces of trim on the main part of the frame was also very, very difficult to do. Could never seem to get the holes align just right, and getting the screwdriver into that tight space was hard to do in the first place.  BTW - these pictures aren't exactly chronological. I did take the frame off to put the top on, then put the frame back in the car. Could have saved myself some trouble by putting on a few pieces of hardware prior to putting the frame back on the car, but I will *never* do this job again. Forgot to mention - found a quarter in one of the rain-rail reservoirs. That had plugged that up, which was what probably left the other side to start showing rust. The other side was cracked - when I bought the car I found a childs toy lodged where the main frame hunkers down, which put weight on the cup and probably cracked that.. iscariot fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Oct 13, 2007 |
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Oct 13, 2007 20:05
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Schwack posted:Ok quick question: $600-900 for the hard top. In my area, that would be $1000 overpriced with that much mileage (though admittedly I don't know what the A pkg contains).
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Oct 14, 2007 03:18
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Wow - catching up on 800 posts since I last visited this thread. Looking to possibly add a third miata in the family, scoping out a 94 so I can do a straight parts swap with my current 96 and not gently caress with OBDII (though with some finagaling I did manage to get my care smogged with Megasquirt). Or there's a 90 with no engine being sold for $750... so tempting for a Monster conversion.. So it sounds like one (or more) of my lifters has collapsed - steady tapping while at cruise. Combined with crappy idle (oh supercharger, why must you add parasitic drag...) I've gone ahead and ordered new lifters rather than going the cheap route (though drat i wish I had been smart and bought that drat 99 head when I had the chance). So - Looks like I'm going to be doing a lifter installation this weekend. And since I'm the king of "ya know, while I'm there.." I was wondering if anyone knew where I could pick up a spring compressor (either as a loaner or purchase for cheap) so I can do valve stem seals while I've got the buckets off. And I hit ~178,000 miles last week, 40k of that with a jrsc, 20k of that with big boost (9psi).
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Mar 22, 2008 08:43
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pistons come out the top.
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Mar 22, 2008 09:56
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idle air controller? I can't quite tell in the video, but it sounds like it's running fine when you're giving it gas. Uncap a vacuum line, see if it stays running. iscariot fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Mar 23, 2008 |
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Mar 23, 2008 04:03
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compton rear end terry posted:When I am giving it gas, I am flooring it, and it only gets to about 3k, if I let off for too long it dies. You can also hear my brother saying that it was shooting out a bunch of black smoke. black smoke out the exhaust? Wonder if you've got an injector stuck open...
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Mar 23, 2008 07:55
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Borrow a pressure-tester for your leak. It took me ages to find mine - I had one at the 90 degree elbow that plugs into the bottom of the thermostat from the waterpump - JB welded that after I replaced waterpump and the O rings on the lower half. Could've saved 80$ on the waterpump.. And the second time I developed a leak, I wouldn't have found it if not for the pressure tester. The line going to the throttle body was leaking but only under pressure - I thought it was coming from the rear since I couldn't see it. Just hidden under the intake manifold. Now if you will, allow me to rant. My 96 started to suffer from a collapsed lifter. 178k miles, supercharged for 30. Tap tap tap at 4k rpm at cruise. So I decided to go ahead and pull the timing and cams and found a good deal on ebay on lifters and decided to swap them all vs. testing them. So I get pretty far with it - and then I realize "hey, ya know what? Valve stem seals are right there - I can't really tell if I need them since I run pig-rich, but while I'm here it'd be good to swap them." So I order some fel-pro's at autozone. Yeah, I could get the Viton's on MiataRoadster for a good price and not have to worry about them for another 50k, but I'm looking to buy another Miata before then. So I have to wait for the fel-pro's to come in. Valve cover? Nah - I should be able to reuse mine, it's only got about 20k on it. So - what happens? I rip the poo poo out of the valve cover. Order another one - it's going to arrive in 4 days - no biggy, I still have to wait for the lifters to arrive. I'll get the valve stems tomorrow (sunday), swap those out, then I just need to wait for the lifters, get those swapped, then go back the other way and wait for the valve cover gasket. Turns out - you can't use the 15$ spring compressor tool that Autozone sells. And every generic tool out there appears to be for a full head-off job. So after searching, I manage to find a tool on ebay monday night - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350040336723 . Not wanting to be delayed in getting the work done, I do some searching and find a place that is selling it in Tennessee. I'm in Atlanta. There's a UPS hub in Tennessee, so shipping should be pretty drat quick. It's a little more expensive and they seem to be charging a little more than usual on shipping, but that's the breaks if you want it right away, right? So I put the order in. They get it shipped out the same day, tracking starts on Tuesday. I check the progress today (was hoping to find it on my doorstep) and the fucker's origin is Cali. Delivery date is monday. God. Dammit. So - looks like I won't be getting the drat thing done this weekend unless I go ahead and skip doing valve stem seals. Did I mention that my miata is my current daily driver and I'm having to borrow one of my parents cars? In other news - here's some cool pictures for the hell of it. PS - Duplicolor Metalcast paint is the poo poo. Moral of the story: If you're gonna do valve lifters, make sure you have valve stem seals, the right tools, and a second car before you start.   
iscariot fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Mar 27, 2008 |
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Mar 27, 2008 06:56
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Anyone have the cam cap torque values and order handy? Thanks.
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Mar 29, 2008 21:55
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re: FM vs. ES bushings http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18173 mind you - that is the owner of 949 racing commenting, but I'd say his point is probably true. I've got illumina's on Racing Beat springs - and I'm starting to think that I'm dumb for having linear springs instead of variable on my daily driver. They can be real kidney punchers on some potholes.  I did lots of comparison of KYB vs Tockiko on miata.net, and it really seemed half and half - with most everyone complaining about the HP's than the illuminas.
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Apr 2, 2008 08:41
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Hello - I am an idiot. From closest to last - My 96, my 94, my dad's 96. My 96 -  JRSC w/ big boost (9psi), megasquirt, water injection, rollbar, tokico illuminas and racing beat springs. There's archived threads on the Supercharger and Megasquirt installs. Originally bought off craigslist for $3000 w/ 120k miles. Excuse the front wheels - I cut a tire and tirerack had the Exclaim UHP's backordered for 6 weeks, and I haven't had time to get them mounted and balanced. My 94 -  Just picked this up last week. My 96 is an A package that I've slowly been turning into a C package. (power mirrors, power windows). But I hate dealing with OBDII, which isn't terrible but I'd like to go full megasquirt and stop loving with the stock ECU altogether. Snagged it off craigslist for $2800. All the leaks are in the right places, the previous owner was a 39 year old woman (2nd owner) that had it for 12 years. She said she promised herself she was going to buy a BMW before she turned 40 and handed me about stack of receipts about an inch thick. The car does have it's issues, cosmetically. A hail storm that rolled through last month installed about 20 holes in the soft top.  That's what a 400$ paint job looks like on the rear deck and hood. But my 96 has a full on maaco paint job (previous owner) that just will not take a shine, and some cracked bondo. This is a great base car - I can't wait to start really tearing into it. All it neeeds to be perfect body-wise is a new passenger side fender and paint. I've already ordered a top, rollbar, and stereo for it. Going to swap alot of the go-fast bits from the 96 to it, though I'm looking for a motor to build up for turbo. The car drives so great I'm reconsidering my suspension set up, as this one is stock and a real blast to daily drive. My 96 is my current daily driver an a hell of a kidney puncher. And finally - my dad's 96.  This is what 1500$ of miata looks like - plus some upgrades. His primary car was taking a huge dump (98 catera) despite my efforts to try and revive it, just became a money drain - started with a misfire that was valve-cover related, then coil pack, then injector, now it's throwing codes on both O2 sensors and won't pass emissions so it has sat. This is probably the cheapest miata I've seen on craigslist, and had its share of problems - most notably, a lack of first gear. I thought - oh, easy fix, slave cylinder!.. wasn't that lucky. So far it's had a tranny swap, rollbar and hard top installed. Last week it overheated and my dad limped it home (dammit dad we have towing, don't risk a head gasket). The car had, for a few weeks, immediatly pegged H on the coolant gauge but a quick little jerk on the steering wheel would immediatly bring it down to normal range then spike back up. We were thinking bad sender or wire getting grounded out - but after I tore into it - checked compression test, leakdown, oil, coolant - no traditional signs of headgasket - ended up with a HLA swap, timing belt, water pump, thermostat (which was stuck open), radiator hoses, spark plugs and wires - and the root cause - one of the coolant bypass hoses had shat itself (same thing happened on my 96 as well). 220k miles on the body, 120k on the engine. He used to own a Bugeye Sprite and really, really, really loves the miata - though he is the atypical near retirement driver (look what i got off ebay! it's one of the original miata advertisements and a poster too!). And of course I had to paint the valve color - it's ford blue although my dad insists it's Miller blue. So - in summation - I'm an idiot. iscariot fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Apr 21, 2008 |
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Apr 21, 2008 04:28
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The top is old and busted anyway - I know it was replaced in 2001. Since I know I'm getting a new top I went ahead and laid it down without unzipping the rear window, which resulted in cracking the window. Whole top is fairly dryrotted and in need of replacement. By the size of the holes? Golfball would be my estimate.
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Apr 21, 2008 09:11
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anti-sieze between the hub and the rotor helps that problem tremendously.
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Apr 30, 2008 03:29
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Then you put on too much.
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Apr 30, 2008 06:30
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Mine fits quite nicely in my 96 - here's a protip: for the lower DIN, go to a junkyard and grab a pocket out of a MX3 / Protege. Pops right in and fits perfectly, and plastic is nicer quality than what you get in one of those din conversions. I'll snap a shot of mine tomorrow.
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May 6, 2008 07:04
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ah... well, I'll see how well my 94 takes it. Also - Savington, if you drop your head in here - I'm still a good 4 months away (at least - have to finish the SHO, then swap over some of the go fast bits off the 96) from building up the 94. I'm debating a DIY turbo vs. a kit - I'm already running 9psi with the m45. The 94 is going to get an engine-out buildup, H beams and maybe 9:1 pistons. (I still haven't budgeted everything yet..) A. worth going with a 99head on a boosted application (for valve float)? B. Whats a cheap(ish) kit that's easy to build up? All I know are FM, Greddy, and Begi Or am i putting the cart before the horse?
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May 6, 2008 08:13
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I'm thinking 200-250, guesstimating (dreaming) that my current s/c is good for around 150-175 - I was going to go to the drat megasquirt they had at diyautotune a few weeks ago and do some dyno pulls, only to have to replace my fathers timing belt.. grrr.. so, no dyno.. but i'm a stickler for do it once, do it right, and if possible do it cheap.. (well, now I am... I wasn't while building up my 96... )
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May 7, 2008 05:08
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Aye - LC1, 440 supra low-z resistors, MS w/ peak and hold, are already bought and paid for. I lucked into the m45 for cheap... then got somewhat addicted to adding power. Sounds like I need to go ahead and pick up Corky's book (outdated yes I know..)
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May 8, 2008 09:48
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I just patched the hole that got slashed in mine from January - Alabama Chrome had worked well until last week. Since some of ya'll are doing your tops now *SAVE THE WINDOW CUT OUT* *SAVE THE WINDOW CUT OUT* SAVE THE WINDOW CUT OUT It makes perfect patching material. I sewed mine up, cut a new patch out of the new top I got for my 94, slathered it in vinyl glue, slapped it on. Looks much better than black ducttape. I'm doing my top in the 94 right now - and it's the one job I said I would gladly pay someone else to do. I'm finding with the rollbar not in the way things are going much faster, probably 2 hours into it so far. Then I have to install the rollbar. Sigh. 3rd one I've done. Then I get to install a top in my dads 96. Sigh. 3rd one I'll have done. iscariot fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 12, 2008 |
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May 12, 2008 21:20
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1996 m45 w/ big boost pulley, 440cc injectors, megasquirt 181800 miles 252 miles out of 9.3 gallons = 27mpg. normally get 25, having to keep off the happy pedal because my water injection is acting a little funky and its officially "hot as balls" in Atlanta 30ish before the supercharger? I tuned megasquirt lean to try and pass emissions and got 28 for a week (before the EGR ended up throwing a code... back to the tune drawing board on that one) 16mpg (bad, awful, terrible megasquirt tune)
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Jun 9, 2008 04:38
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That radiator looks the same color my 96 did right before it blew - the plastic on top of the tank is black when new. And black interior == black top. Though heck, even my tan top has a black headliner. That headliner looks off-white? I'm thinking thats a lot of uv damage - which might be nice, cuz the only way i could think of that happening would be if the previous owner had a hard top. Engine looks nice and freshly detailed though.
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Jul 1, 2008 08:24
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get used to cruising at 4000rpm. wheel size that influences cruise is also going to influence speedometer cable and larger wheels weigh more, which results in more rotational mass, which cuts down on.. alot of fun things. Hell, when I polished some 17's I was given and showed them off in a thread awhile ago, I was shat upon quite heavily. Aside from the engine noise, you're not going to gain anything by gearing/wheel size/rear end swap economy-wise. Mileage is a function of load, not RPM, especially while cruising. That said - I have Kosei K1's in 15 on my 96. Lightweight, fairly cheap, looks good. I can't stress enough to look at weight when looking at wheels. Also - I like the Exclaim UHP's for rubber, though I think there was a critique earlier about the compound changes over time and they get decidedly less-sticky. I don't think I've hit that point yet. iscariot fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Jul 8, 2008 |
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Jul 8, 2008 05:19
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I've replaced 3 tops now, despite the first time saying never again. First time - 20 hours or so Second - 12 hours Third - 8 It's a real pain in the rear end. topsonline.com has good prices, especially if you can find what you're looking for through ebay (price is a little better there). Take your time, get a rain rail, do as much possible with the frame off the car. Make sure you have fresh rubber cement, put the hardware in baggies in steps and take both seats out of the car. Alternatively, if the top other than the hole is in good shape, you can probably scrounge up some similar material, sew the hole up (I had to sew up a 12 inch slash from someone breaking in) then glued a patch over the rip with vinyl adhesive. Keeps the rain out, looks better than ducttape. iscariot fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Jul 18, 2008 |
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Jul 18, 2008 05:53
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Hot drat So my dad's miata has had a problem with overheating - first, one of the lines blew and he overheated it quite badly. I thought it blew a headgasket, but it seemed to work fine. I ended up replacing the HLA's, timing belt, water pump, spark plugs and wires, and throwing out my back in the process. I also replaced the O-Ring that goes from the head to the thermostat housing, since I was right there.. That turned out to be a mistake. The car continued to lose coolant and with my back thrown out I was not in a mood to work on it. 3 mechanics found various loose hoses, one charged $70 for the radiator cap, but it would still overheat spontaneously on long trips. 6 weeks later, my back is up to it and I start tearing into it tonight. Recheck the hoses, pressure tester still registers a drop, albeit very very slowly. I've been pulling my hair out about this for 6 weeks, and dreading it was the o-ring I replaced - since I couldn't find an exact match, I got one that was slightly smaller but the correct width, heated it up in a pan of water and stretched it out over a socket. I took off the valve cover and top timing cover, dreading to see water drip from the O-ring - which would mean pulling the timing belt, which would mean radiator (to get some room - I've done timing belts about 6 times now - trust me, pull the radiator), pulley, timing covers, timing belt, and dust shield just to get at the drat o-ring. Pressurized, and... nothing. Checked the floor for puddles - nothing. Well, that was fine and good, but no closer to finding the drat leak. Tried listening for bubbles with a stethascope. Got pissed, and realized I didn't have any cigarettes. Ran up to the store, bought a pack, and when I got back home -  well now, that's a puddle. I left the system pressurized on my smoke run. Now, where is that coming from...  It's really hard to get a camera to get a good shot of it - but, isn't that a body hole? We've had some misdirection on the puddles before, dripping into the k-member then puddling further back, but this one is behind the firewall.. That would mean...  A-ha!  loving heater core. Far too often when you look for a leak, you look for it outside the drat car. Goes to show you... Now I just need to find some 5/8ths OD pipe and bypass until fall. But this has been a huge pain in the rear end, and I'm relieved that I finally have a solution. Also coming soon - whats in the box(es) that are being stockpiled for the 94..
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Jul 21, 2008 05:26
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If the front lip of the soft top isn't making a good seal and the latches are tightened up all the way, you can use some washers to force the latch receiver lower.
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Jul 26, 2008 03:49
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http://picasaweb.google.com/iscariot/Miata/photo#5106310063591528450 Has pictures from my top install, should show you the drain.
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Jul 26, 2008 19:28
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I bought my 96 with 130k miles and the owner said the clutch had been replaced ~120k. I went supercharged 6psi at 140k. I went 9psi at ~160k. And now I'm at 185k. And I'm pretty sure the clutch was slipping at 6psi. If you're looking at adding boost, you really need to step back and think "Is 6 psi all I'm going to do?" Both of those seem like generic organic clutches. Ceramic clutches are a bit less unstreetable, but they're really not any more expensive than an organic.
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Jul 31, 2008 04:13
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Lesson for today: When you remove Grade 8 bolts from a part, put Grade 8 bolts back in.   So when I installed the big boost pulley, the stock bolts were too short - 15mm long iirc. So I searched high and low but not MSC for grade 8 m6x1.00x20mm bolts with no luck, but Lowe's did have them in standard. Eventually, I forgot about it, and 20,000 miles later I downshift to second at a stoplight, hear a clang. Nothing behind me, light turned green, started down the entrance ramp when I noticed the steering had gone heavy. Then noticed all my idiot lights were on. Pulled over, popped the hood and found the crank pulley in pieces. Trigger wheel was on the road, pulleys had been caught by the sway bar. 2 of the 4 screws came out easy, 3rd one I ended up drilling through my hand, and the 4th I managed to strip with my ez-out, then I couldn't find my torch so I put it on the stove and tried to wedge it out, then I just went ahead and drilled it almost completely out and retapped the thread. I installed 98 cent bolts, but I'll have to hit up MSC sometime soon. Also pictured - part of the fidanza flywheel freshly blanche ground. SHO owners complained about fidanza's being warped from the manufacturer and to have them ground even if they were brand new. Cost $35, and the machinest laying a straight edge across it agreed that it was pretty damned retarded to sell a brand new warped flywheel.
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Aug 1, 2008 03:48
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 Oh god I'm an idiot.
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Aug 7, 2008 06:02
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Begi S5. External wastegate. Only caveat is that it's for a 99 and I'm tossing it on a 94. I went through it last night and I'm missing the exhaust manifold studs but I think that's all. $3500, guy totaled his 99 before he got a chance to install it - I just couldn't pass it up. And yes, FM butterfly brace. Got it off of craigslist and stainless steel brake lines for $400 (yes, a little on the high side - but not bad considering I didn't have to pay for shipping - I basically got the brake lines for free). And..  100k mile longblock for $125, not pictured: rest of the block, and head and valve cover gaskets. This is going to be the base of the build. Plans are still developing, but this is going to sit archived for awhile (mid-fall, at least) till I finish my SHO. ARP studs top and bottom, ETD rods, ceramic coat pistons or wisecos, depending on bore taper, megasquirt (still deciding on whether or not I should pull my current one and make a few upgrades). Going to swap the suspension bits off my 96 onto my 94, and sell the 96. End goal is going to be a reliable 250hp and a kidney punching suspension. Might as well start calling the 94 the girlfriend, since I'm going to be spending a lot of weekends with it... I guess I shouldn't deceive myself anymore that this is cheaper than a car payment. I'm keeping track of expenses in a spreadsheet, so far $8,065 - though I do hope to knock that down some when I sell the 96 and the supercharger. iscariot fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Aug 8, 2008 |
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Aug 8, 2008 03:44
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From "How to tune and modify Engine Management Systems" - http://books.google.com/books?id=ze...num=1&ct=result Techtom is available for the miata from 90 to 95 - Pricing for techtom is at http://www.neetronics.com/neet/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=23&Itemid=28&PHPSESSID=7a8aad6b4e6212faee1ca65ce0390c07 $610 to $1,100 Megasquirt unassembled - $200, and has a shitload more features. Also found an old thread on miata.net - eeprom in the ECU is more rom than eep. The Techtom kit probably includes a replacement eeprom. As it stands, I think the diyautotune guys got 7 more HP when they were testing their Megasquirt PNP vs. stock - so I doubt there's much more to tune, and as was mentioned, that gain was probably just a spark advance. Another edit - found a more recent thread at m.net - http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=226162&page=13&pp=25 Looks like they finally cracked the majority of it .. 4 months ago. iscariot fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Aug 13, 2008 |
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Aug 13, 2008 05:52
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Gear Head posted:My clutch became very light today. At first when I pressed the clutch it required extra effort to engage the gears, then just as I was near home it became next to impossible. I stumbled home in 5th. Before you go on a clutch hunt, replace the slave cylinder. It's $36 for a new one, and can be swapped in your driveway. When mine failed, I would have to pump the clutch a few times before I shifted. Actually - check your fluids first.
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Aug 25, 2008 02:50
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can we get a picture of the screw with a dime or quarter to reference it to? it could be from the front bar, but the size of the washer makes me think that its possibly from the cable tensioner.
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Aug 27, 2008 01:56
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Not something to be cheap on. 3 Miatas, 3 hard core dual diagonals.
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Aug 29, 2008 06:06
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GoblinBomb posted:What is this and why is it in my intake tube? When I look at pictures of stock engine bays, I don't see this thing. Did the PO do an rear end in a top hat thing? Hehehehe... Your car used to be megasquirted. GM AIT sensor. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-62.html I installed the same sensor on mine. Air Intake Temperature sensor.
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Aug 30, 2008 08:59
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Hypnolobster posted:
Do not get Tokico Blues/HP's. They suck. I wouldn't suggest the eibachs either. gomiata.com, flyinmiata.com, 949racing.com, miataturbo.net, miata.net, miataroadster.com, racingbeat.com, miatamania.com, trackdogracing.com and those are just the ones i keep bookmarked... "Best" is subjective. Anything past 91 didn't have the short nose 1.6l's. 94 was the lightest of all the 1.8ls. 96 got a small bump in power from obdii. If you really want to get into it - http://www.amazon.com/Mazda-MX-5-Mi...20803755&sr=1-9 - goes into waaay more trivia than I care for. and one more - http://www.bethania-garage.com/ - go directly to the source for the hardcore rollbars. they list options there that gomiata misses. iscariot fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Sep 7, 2008 |
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Sep 7, 2008 17:06
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I'm running racing beat street springs and tokico illuminas. They're fine by me. One word on ebay specials - tokico has a bug up their rear end about authorized vendors, and have denied warranties based on ebay purchases. Dunno about KYB, but its something to keep in mind. And this probably goes into the far corner of "awesome setup" but if you're considering coilovers, then you're probably going to want bushings. miataroadster and a few others are offering full Energy Suspension bushing kits, run about $240 iirc for the complete setup.
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Sep 8, 2008 04:29
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Before replacing the top for just the rear window - Meguiars's Plastic Polish and Cleaner do a pretty good job. Definitely worth trying for $20 vs. $450 http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+M1708
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Sep 8, 2008 05:24
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duck tape (yes, the duck brand ducttape) worked fine on mine after the top got slashed for around 6 months - though numerous patches from hail damage on my 94 didn't last a week. key is to try and get the ducttape to adhere to itself, so use it on the top and bottom. a more permanent solution is to go grab some cloth backed vinyl maybe from a craft store and some vinyl adhesive. my permanent solution in the 96 was to sew the slash up, just to bring the two pieces together, then cut a piece of the scrap that came with my new top for the 94 (save that scrap!) with about 1.5 inches laying over on each side, then glue it down over top of the stitches. been another 6 months, doesn't leak and doesn't look horrible (better than ducttape anyway).   doesn't look like i have pictures of the more permanent solution. Just remember ducttape likes to stick to itself more than anything else, so give it plenty of surface area to stick onto the vinyl. iscariot fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Sep 23, 2008 |
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Sep 23, 2008 09:41
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 10:35 |
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BTW Savington - I'm an idiot.
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Oct 12, 2008 08:51
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