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Ize posted:In case you missed it: I love how there's a pack of Miata driving faggots in that thread trying to defend the car. Do you morons not understand the internet?
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Oct 11, 2007 18:32
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My NB foamectomy took about an hour and a half, bullshitting with a friend. Zipties instead of the hog rings made putting the cover back on easy.
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Oct 11, 2007 22:10
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Oh, man, get rid of those steelies in a hurry. They weigh something like 18 pounds apiece. Stock wheels ought to be cheap enough and you'll drop five or so pounds per corner.
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Oct 16, 2007 16:22
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Phone posted:edit- nothing can prepare you for how many times you're going to hydroplane for a split second. Welcome to owning a lightweight car. I just drove through a Houston monsoon yesterday afternoon on my fresh Azenis 615s. The past four sets of tires I've run have been the 215s, and I'm surprised at the improvements on the new tire. Never once, even hitting unexpected two inch deep puddles at 50mph, did the steering go light. It's going to take a while to get used to it, I was on my old set of Azenis for about 17,000 miles, and the nylon was beginning to show. I get all tense when there's standing water as a result.
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Oct 16, 2007 18:03
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Gear Head posted:What is AI's opinion on mismatched hardtops? Black top on white car, red on white, etc. And why isn't an OEM making cheap hardtops I have a twilight blue mica '99 with a black hardtop and black a-pillars. I'm pretty fond of the two-tone, although the blue is dark enough that a lot of people don't even notice that it's two colors. edit: mobn posted:Is that some sort of fake intake on the headlight cover? It's a shame, 'cuz with just the two-tone that thing'd have been gorgeous. I'm thinking about getting a black hardtop for mine, but I don't think I'd paint the windshield frame. I'm pretty sure it's functional. They're fairly common. vex fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Oct 18, 2007 |
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Oct 18, 2007 19:56
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mobn posted:I'm glad you prefer a high-power heavy sedan over a lightweight capably-handling roadster. Apples and oranges, eh? Sounds like you had no idea what kind of car you were loving getting into before you actually tried it out. Of course it's not going to go like your Bimmer, but a capable driver in a Miata will embarrass you on the track, and that's what this car is all about. Hey now that you've told him your Miata is better than what he likes, tell him you're a more dedicated enthusiast for driving a smaller car! He had no idea what kind of car he was getting in to, no way.
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Oct 22, 2007 04:24
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I've always gone through the wheel well.
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Oct 23, 2007 05:02
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Did you run the car out all the way to redline?
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Nov 3, 2007 18:34
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grover posted:I tromped the gas as hard as it went, trying to gauge the torque curves. Didn't even seem to have the power of my V6 camaro. (0-60 times are comparable between the two on paper, but I was expecting it to be a little peppier.) I don't don't mind using the whole engine, if that's what it takes to get power. It's not enough to break the sale, but I was still a tad disappointed. Tromping the gas doesn't mean you stayed on throttle all the way to power peak. Being used to something with more torque is probably going to give you the habit of shifting well before 7,000 rpm, as well as being used to low end torque. Test drive it again and make sure you shift just before redline.
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Nov 3, 2007 19:55
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leica posted:Aftermarket sways just make Miatas understeer. So what it the car has a bit of body roll. Stiffer sways are just silly solid axle conversion kits, unless you're trying to meet competition rules and can't change other suspension components. Why add sways to reduce the independence of your suspension? edit: to be clear, stiffening a swaybar reduces traction at that end.
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Nov 6, 2007 17:53
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leica posted:I know people that remove the rear bar to help the car steer better for autoX. Never had the chance to try it myself though, it could be an interesting experiment. Removing the bar is done often when the ratio of front to rear springrates gets thrown off by a high rear rate. I need to up my rear springrate another 50lbs before I can play with sway bar removal.
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Nov 8, 2007 16:17
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I believe the weather stripping is adjustable, but I haven't done it myself.
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Nov 10, 2007 17:43
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leica posted:It doesn't matter if they look new. Miatas are notorious for deteriorating plug wires, and you can't tell by looking at them. If I were you I'd order a set of NGK blues, it's only 35 bucks. It more than likely will solve the problem. If not, at least you have eliminated a possibility and you'll know how old the wires are. If you can do simple soldering, you can use Corolla coil on plugs and never have to replace another set of plug wires. Even without the (possible) benefits of hotter spark, the COPs will pay for themselves within two or three wire change intervals.
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Nov 22, 2007 19:46
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i hope there are some underneath the car for the madd tyte ufo look
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Nov 24, 2007 22:57
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I've got an OEM hardtop, no headliner, no rear defrost. It takes maybe ten minutes to totally defrost the rear window with the front vents on defrost. The car may be noisy without a headliner, but honestly, it's a cheap, light-ish convertible. If you truly think you need a quiet cockpit there's a sea of Chrysler Sebrings out there for you.
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Dec 5, 2007 08:07
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Clutch hydraulic failure won't leave you stranded, technically. My slave cylinder failed the other evening in rush hour traffic, so I drove the last 15 miles shifting clutchlessly, and idling in 1st towards red lights trying not to stop. If you stop, you'll need to turn off the car, push the clutch pedal in (for the start lockout), put the car in 1st gear, and start the car with about half throttle. You'll either bog or get wheelspin, but you'll be moving. This will be the second slave cylinder I've purchased. The last one lasted about twenty thousand miles. They're a pretty common failure on the Miata. Savington posted:
You don't know where the master cylinder is? The one attached through the firewall to the clutch pedal, right next to the brake master cylinder? 
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Dec 9, 2007 19:25
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 02:19 |
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You probably need new shocks. Go with Konis, if you'd like adjustable shocks, or Bilstein HDs if you don't want to mess with knobs. You could upgrade bushings, too, but that's a serious pain in the rear end, it'll take more than a day to do, and yours are probably at least decent. The shocks ought to take about six hours at a relaxed pace. The improvement will blow your mind. You can shoehorn a timing belt and waterpump change into the budget, as well, and still have cash left over.
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Dec 20, 2007 12:28
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