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I would just like to take this opportunity to say gently caress YOU AND loving DIE to everyone at Robbins tops. If any other piece of equipment was this poorly manufactured, people would be making GBS threads bricks over it. Ive never seen so many holes misplaced (by up to more than 1/4 inch) or such poor initial fitment. It took three god damned people almost an hour just to get the loving thing latched for the first time, even with the latches adjusted all the way out. I hope everyone at Robbins gets AIDs, cancer and maybe kidney stones and dies. gently caress them all.
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Dec 18, 2007 13:36
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IOwnCalculus posted:Aaaand this is why I am trying to look for good NB tops on the frame already Has nothing to do with being on the frame. That was easy as hell. The problem came when mounting it back to the car. Half of the holes along the back were just flat out in the wrong spots. gently caress Robbins.
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Dec 18, 2007 19:14
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Is there a simple way to remove the dash blank? I cant seem to get the bastard to pop out and I dont want to mess up my dash prying on it too hard. (This is for the defroster switch)
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Dec 20, 2007 02:16
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Sorry about your accident, Im surprised your top went on with seeming ease. I suppose having someone to help would make it easier, haha. That and not doing it when its below freezing and night time. I used: http://www.miata.net/faq/miatachanges.html and http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5361/ Both are great references when searching for a Miata. Good luck, it only took me 5 months or so to find mine, but its much colder up here.
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Dec 30, 2007 08:57
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Guinness posted:The same thing has happened to me a few times while I was washing my 95M. Two or three times have passerby Miata drivers stopped to compliment me. One time a 2000 in Merlot (the only other year it was offered) stopped and yelled out "Nice car color!", and it turns out before his 2000 he had a 95M as well. AHEM, I think you mean Mahogany Mica. Also, this is driving me nuts because I havent had time to finish this yet, but when I do I stop because I dont want to shred my dash by poking it with screwdrivers. To get the switch blank out (the ones that sit right by the drivers left knee) what the hell do I need to do? Do I need to pull off the bottom plastic below the steering wheel or would two narrow screwdrivers work?
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Jan 11, 2008 13:45
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compton rear end terry posted:I am looking at a 1996 Miata. They are asking $4650. It has 100,000 miles on it. It looks like it needs a new top. The headlight motor and windshield are broken, and they are willing to replace it. The AIR BAG light is also on, and stays on. How much would it be to fix the air bag? Is this a good deal? That sounds like a terrible deal. I just bought my 95M with 49k on it for $6400 last month. All it needed was a new top because of a clouded rear window. Honestly, I'd pass on it with all those issues at that price.
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Feb 3, 2008 01:04
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Guinness posted:As much? More like at least. When I was getting top install quotes, the going rate was $500+ just for the labor. If you bought a top through the shop (don't do this) you'd be looking at least $1100 all said and done. Just do it yourself, like a real man. Although, theres a good chance you will feel like less of a man midway through the install. Unless you do the NB top install, which I hear is easier.
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Feb 3, 2008 01:58
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Haha, in retrospect I probably would have rather had someone install it. I did the Robbins no-zip glass window top install myself on a literally freezing cold night. It was probably the worst car modification/install I've ever had to do. Part of that was the cold, part of it was doing it myself, and part of it was Robbins workmanship (mostly mispunched holes). In the end though, I got it installed in around 7 hours work and it fits perfectly with no leaks 
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Feb 3, 2008 02:23
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I dunno how you guys are barely fitting in. Im 6'3 and fit without ANY modification to the seats at all. Its almost all the way back and slightly tilted. Perfect fit for me. Although, I'll probably have to do a foamectomy if I want to fit in there with a helmet on and the top up.
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Feb 6, 2008 00:43
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MIATA MEGATHREAD: Not For Fat-Asses But yeah, thats probably a good point. Although, it could just be how some people prefer to sit as well. Im actually a bit confused about how well I fit in mine. I used to drive my moms 91 around and I could BARELY fit in that thing. It was hard to work the steering wheel etc. When I first sat in mine I fit with room to spare. I'm really not sure what they changed from 91 to 95 as far as the seats go, but it worked out great for me.
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Feb 6, 2008 22:19
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Slopehead posted:I must be patient, there will be more. Perhaps JimmyJars will email me back soon. Exactly this. Don't just jump on the first used car you drive. I did this once with a car and a year down the road I really regretted not looking at more. There are lots of Miatas out there, so wait for the right one within your budget. Also, if you go a bit older you shouldnt have a hard time finding a decent car within your budget. Alot of the 1.6L NAs seem to be more in line with your price, at least this was the case when I was looking for a Miata two months back. Also, read the miata.net FAQs and what not. Edmunds is not always a great source of information. This is probably a good page for you: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5361/ Schwack fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Feb 12, 2008 |
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Feb 12, 2008 06:06
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Oh good, more weight for the NC I do hope it boosts their sales some and maybe encourages more manufacturers to get in on this segment.
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Feb 13, 2008 22:45
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It sounded like a neat idea, but christ, it seems like with $2k you could do a lot of stuff to a Miata.
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Feb 14, 2008 22:27
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brosef deluxe posted:I honestly cannot agree with you more. ITRRRRRB's sound awesome but Jimmy's a tool, and his megafanboi "PandaTrueno" (ugh) is even worse. I'd rather ask questions in this Megathread than the whole Miata.net. You either get geezers or ricers, and nobody in between. Its a breath of fresh air for me, really. A lot of geezers at least know their poo poo. The Miata seems to be too 'gay' to attract the kind of bros that MR2OC was infested with. If you want some really stupid loving advice, hop into their RIMZ N TIREZZZZ forum sometime. Sure 17x9's fit, so long as you dont mind rolling your fenders with a baseball bat or just take some big rear end chunks out of your tires until they fit.
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Feb 15, 2008 04:50
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StankCheeze posted:How much are yellow miatas REALLY worth? There's a 200k yellow automatic with original paint in good condition and a new top near me for 2500 bucks... Worth buying for profit? Dunno how much profit you'll realistically make on an automatic Miata, regardless of the color. During my hunt, I saw the same ******~~*~*~** RARE AUTOMATIC OPTION **~**~***~***~** Miata's up for 6+ months.
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Feb 15, 2008 22:10
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compton rear end terry posted:Looks like I might have to do it myself then. It doesn't look too hard, just very time consuming. Which top did you get?
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Mar 3, 2008 22:13
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compton rear end terry posted:A cheap ebay top. I am not expecting it to last more than 2 years, but I needed something cheap after mine got slashed. Just make sure you do it on a warm day. If it's cold outside it turns into a real bitch of a job, well more of a bitch than it is anyway. The only tough part for me was getting it reattached to the car with the rainrail in place.
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Mar 3, 2008 22:59
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Gear Head posted:I ordered a top from these guys It seems like if you arent going to spring for a decent aftermarket or NB top, you may as well just do the install yourself.
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Mar 6, 2008 05:52
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From my shopping experience, prices bounce all over. Why dont you just get on craiglist/autotrader and start looking? That will give you a better idea than anything you'll find here.
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Mar 8, 2008 07:48
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Phone posted:But remember, if you ask Miata.Net, if you pay anything over 3k, you paid too much. I noticed this when I was browsing their pricing forums. They dont seem to live in areas where the demand is high at all. One car I went to look at had 7 people with appointments all in the same day, 3 days after the listing was posted. ps: I saw you on battle.net.
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Mar 8, 2008 08:59
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Im looking to freshen up/improve my 95's suspension a bit here. I was planning on doing a full set of bushings, dampers, springs and maybe replacing the sway-bars. Although I've seen some bad experiences with aftermarket sways. What brands/vendors should I be shopping?
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Mar 21, 2008 09:50
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aksuur posted:Points I haven't raised: Just curious, but how is this a bargaining point? This kind of thing happens with trade-ins all the time.
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Mar 27, 2008 01:14
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Ok so after poking around for a few days, I came up with what looks to me like a decent suspension overhaul for my 95. Dampers: Tokico Illuminas off Ebay I was originally eyeing the KYB AGX's, but there were too many posts on m.net detailing how quickly the shocks started to give out. That and the Illuminas are hardly more expensive. Shocks: FM Springs I know a lot of people recommend sticking with the stock springs, and I could definitely be convinced to go that way. It just so happened that I read a few posts detailing peoples experiences with these springs and they seemed to be quite happy, and for barely more than $200 it seems like a good idea to go ahead and replace the stockers. Sways: FM Swaybars I figured I should go ahead and replace the stock sways. My understanding is that this should help combat my rear wheel lifting off the ground during hard cornering (a number of people said I looked like a VW at an autocross this last weekend). I like the adjustable FM sways, but if there is a better alternative out there I'm open to suggestion. I decided to go ahead and replace some of the bushings as well, as that made quite a bit of difference on my MR2. Im thinking the Energy Suspension Base Bushing kit from 949racing.com. I'm kind of on the fence about their differential bushing kit. Somehow it just doesnt seem like it would help that much. Any input? Thats everything I've come up with so far. Like I said, Im definitely open to change what I've got listed here, but I would like to try and have my decision nailed down by later this week so I can get started ordering this stuff!
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Apr 1, 2008 14:39
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Are you talking about the Tokico HP's, Illuminas or both? I saw a bunch of posts steering everyone far away from the HP's, but the consensus seemed to be OK on the Illuminas. The Koni Yellows are the only one they make for the Miata, right? I already have basically all the bushing money allocated in there. I didnt go with the complete kit because the only change is the addition of the diff bushings and the swaybar bushings. They mention that the sway bushings are only for the stock setup so I avoided them. Would it be worth buying new OEM springs or just sticking with the ones that come off the car? My experience with MR2's was that it was a really bad idea to pair your old, used springs with new shocks. Schwack fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Apr 1, 2008 |
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Apr 1, 2008 15:20
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Phone posted:You can go the Savington route and get Koni RACE shocks. Haha, Im sure they're great but they are probably overkill for someone like me. That and they would basically cost as much as my whole little package I've drawn up here. Also, does anybody have any comments on the quality of the bushings I mentioned?
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Apr 1, 2008 15:46
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destructo posted:Do you already have Fatcat Motorsports bumpstops? Those FM springs will drop your car about 1/1.5 inches right? The replacement bumpstops will help you retain your original suspension travel and they're fairly cheap. D'oh. I completely forgot to mention that I was also planning on ordering a set of the FCM bumpstops and shock mounts.
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Apr 1, 2008 19:48
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Ulf posted:I just bought a new top last week too, the UV at this altitude really eats them up. Now that I've already bought the Robbins canvas top, anyone think it was the wrong choice? Its a bitch to install, but so far hasnt given me any problems and looks just like stock.
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May 5, 2008 07:21
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Ulf posted:That's all right, I enjoy doing anything on my car the first time 'round. And I can recruit the wife to help where needed. Make sure you do it when its warm and take your time with the rubber window pieces. I spent a long bit lining those up just right and haven't had a hint of a leak, but apparently a lot of people have problems. You'll also need a pop-rivet gun for the Robbins top and I cant stress enough the need for a warm day. I did it when it was freezing loving cold and I really think things would have gone much more smoothly if I had waited.
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May 5, 2008 07:36
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$200 for a shift knob? That takes retarded to a whole new level, jesus.
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May 6, 2008 06:30
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Coredump posted:Is it just me or are prices going way up on these cars? All the ones I see are around $5,000 or so with +150,000 miles. Jesus Christ. Consider the season. It's a bad time to be buying.
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Jun 8, 2008 23:28
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Ive got pretty big arms/hands and I can just reach down and under (from the top of the engine) just fine, how tight are you guys torquing these things on, haha.
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Jun 24, 2008 07:21
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mobn posted:If you can get your hand in there, then it's not as big as you think it is. I can't force my hand through if my life depended upon it. I have to either get my little brother to do it or borrow the magic filter wrench from my buddy's garage. http://www.softgoldfurs.com/measure_hand.php Using these measurements my hand is 10' around and 8' long. Pretty big by there charts, but Im curious to see what kind of monstrous sizes you guys are coming up with, haha.
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Jun 24, 2008 12:04
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FluffGrenade posted:Are the tops easy enough to replace yourself? I can do most mechanical work, but from what I've found online, a lot of people regard top replacement as a huge pain in the rear end. Getting an all new OEM top with the frame attached might make it easier, but my Robbins top was a huge pain in the rear end. Although, if given the chance, I would probably do it again, and do it much faster this time. Basically, if you take your time and have a decently warm work area it shouldnt be too bad. It really helps to have a second pair of hands as well.
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Jul 17, 2008 18:59
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iscariot posted:take both seats out of the car. Best advice right here. I wish I had done this, the seats make bolting down the back of the top and INCREDIBLE pain in the rear end. I would also add that you might want to get something to put down on the parcel shelf to catch any nuts/washers that come off the studs while attempting this part. I had 3 go into the trunk, and fishing them out with a magnet at 3am was a real bitch.
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Jul 18, 2008 07:27
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FireTora posted:Here is two pictures I took of my Miata a few hours ago on what was possibly my last drive in it. Wanna part out the hard top?
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Jul 20, 2008 00:30
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FEAR THE NUG posted:Well there goes my hopes... 6'2 205 lbs.. Oh well I'll find something. Im about an inch taller than you an 30 lbs heavier and I fit just fine in my NA. The only change I would make is to add a steering wheel adjustment, but I manage just fine.
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Aug 9, 2008 02:02
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And that is why I beat the gently caress out of my Miata every time I drive it... I think it likes it best that way.
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Sep 22, 2008 02:48
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Vitamin J posted:There's another way to drive them? Ive never seen those filled... Usually those holes are left blank so that you can thread in a bolt if the rotor is stuck onto the hub.
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Sep 24, 2008 00:05
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Can anybody recall off hand what weight fluids to use in a 94M trans/diff?
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Oct 12, 2008 22:13
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Hypnolobster posted:Why the gently caress is it impossible to find a decent Miata in Ohio? I haven't found anything around $2500-$2800 at ALL. From my experience, you're probably going to be looking at a pretty rough example for $2500.
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Oct 16, 2008 23:23
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